Assamese cuisine

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
A spread representing Assamese cuisine. It shows sauteed greens, khar, fish, pork, pitika and the kaji lemon wedge, in traditional bell metal utensils. There is no sweet dessert and the meal ends with betel nut chewing.

Assamese cuisine is the cuisine of the

bhuna, the gentle frying of spices before the addition of the main ingredients so common in Indian cooking, is absent in the cuisine of Assam.[7]
The preferred oil for cooking is the pungent mustard oil.

Kosu xaak aru madhuxuleng (Colocasia with Polygonum microcephalum)

A traditional meal in Assam begins with a khar, a class of dishes named after the main ingredient. Another very common dish is tenga, a sour dish. Traditionally, both khar and tenga are not eaten together in the same meal, though it has become common lately. The food is usually served in

paan
generally conclude the meal.

Though still obscure, this cuisine has seen wider notice in recent times.[8] The discovery of this cuisine in the popular media continues, with the presenters yet to settle on the language and the specific distinctiveness to describe it.[9]

Ingredients

Rice

indica as well as the japonica
varieties are grown in Assam. The most popular class of rice is the joha or scented rice. As a staple, rice is eaten either steam boiled (ukhua) or sundried (aaroi). Some very fine quality of rice namely, Karaballam or kauribadam etc., are available in Assam only.

Rice is eaten as snack in many forms: roasted and ground (xandoh), boiled in its husk and flattened (chira), puffed (akhoi). kumol saul is rice that is precooked, dried and then husked; it can be simply soaked in warm water and eaten as a light meal.

Rice is a part of all meals in Assam. A traditional breakfast consists of chira with yogurt and jaggery. Mostly farmers eat cooked rice soaked overnight (poita) simply accompanied with salt, mustard oil, onions, etc. Snacks are xandoh, kumol saul or boka saul, sticky rice or bora saul, which can be eaten with sweet or salty accompaniments. For other major meals, rice could be boiled, steamed or wrapped in leaves and roasted. 'Sunga Saul' is a special preparation in which (sticky) rice (bora saul) is cooked in bamboo hollows called 'sunga'. 'Sewa diya Bhaat' is another preparation where sticky rice is steamed over boiling water. They are generally served with meat or fish. Sticky rice is also wrapped in leaves, usually plantain leaves or tora pat, and dropped into boiling water to prepare 'tupula bhat'.

A special class of rice preparations, called pithas are generally made only on special occasions like the Bihu. Made usually with soaked and ground glutinous rice (bora saul), they could be fried in oil with a sesame filling (xutuli pitha), roasted in young green bamboo over a slow fire (sunga pitha) or baked and rolled over a hot plate with a filling (kholasaporia pitha).

Fish

Masor Tenga

The next most important ingredient is fish, harvested from the many rivers, ponds and lakes in the region. The extremely wet climate and the large numbers of water bodies has ensured that large varieties of fresh water fish are available in abundance in the valley. It is a staple item in the Assamese palate. There is no traditional ethnic community in Assam that does not eat fish. Most traditional rural households have their own ponds for

Xol, etc. The small varieties of fish available and eaten in Assam like puthi (swamp barb), Ari (long-whiskered catfish), Goroi (green snake head/ spotted snake head), Koi or Kawoi (climbing perch Anabas testudineus), Kholihona (Indian paradise fish Ctenops nobilis) borolia, mua, ceniputhi, tengera, lachin, bhangun, pabho, etc.[10][11]
The discerning gourmet can tell which region of Assam is known for which variety of fish.

Puthi maas (swamp barb)

The mas tenga (sour fish), which is commonly eaten by most communities of Assam, has lately turned into a signature dish of Assamese cuisine. The most popular souring agent for the tenga is

kajinemu juice (thick skinned elongated lemon) and thekera (dried mangosteen
), Ou-tenga, Teteli, Kordoi Tenga (South-East Asian Starfruit), Tengamora(Roselle leaves) are also popular.

The most common way of eating fish in traditional Assamese homes is by preparing a stew with herbs, vegetables, and greens as per preference and availability. Fish is also prepared by roasting or char-grilling. A common favourite dish is a small fish roasted in banana leaves (paatotdia). Hukoti is a special fish dish prepared from dried small fish like (puthi maas) pounded with arum stem and dried and stored in bamboo tubes. Variations of this exist among the ethnic communities of northeast India in general and Assam in particular. Dried and fermented small fish puthy mas (Ticto barb), three to four in number, are roasted with lavish amounts of green chilis, tomatoes, ginger and garlic (all roasted). The ingredients are then pounded in a mortar to make a coarse paste and served with rice. Fish eggs and innards are also cooked and consumed. Petu bhoja (fried fish intestines) is also considered a delicacy along with the traditional Assamese Jal, which is an herbal fish curry made with medicinal herbs like bhedailota (Chinese fever vine), noroxingho (curry leaves), bon dhunia, man dhunia, manimuni (Asiatic Pennywort), tengesi leaves, and more. It is known for its rich flavour and medicinal and antioxidant qualities.

Meat

The Assamese meat and fish dishes are characterized by a low amount of spices and oil, higher quantity of ginger, noroxinghow paat (

Assamese Muslims, although they traditionally refrain from consuming pork. The Christians, many indigenous Assamese communities, and the non religious
sections consume all types of meat.

The basic cooking methods include cooking, shallow and deep frying. Onla, of the

or
banana flower
is very popular. Meat is generally stewed using limited spices as well as a choice of herbs and vegetables.

Most communities of Assam are entomophagous. Various indigenous ethnic groups of certain areas partake of the silkworm, water bugs, grasshoppers, and other insects. Insects are fried or cooked or roasted in leaves and then prepared according to the timing of the meal. The red

Rongali Bihu
festival.

Green vegetables

The environs of Assam are rich in vegetation, and green leafy vegetables, called xaak, are an important part of the cuisine. Some of them are grown while others like the dhekia (fern) grows wild. There is a bewildering variety that is eaten and according to custom, one has to have 101 different xaak (greens) during Rongali Bihu. Herbs, greens, and vegetables are commonly eaten by simply cooking in water and salt, lightly frying, as a thick soup or by adding to varieties of lentils. They are also prepared in combination with fish, meat and eggs.

Spices of Assam

Among spices there are

bhut jolokia
or ghost pepper, which was recognized as the hottest chili in the world. Panch-furan (mixture of 5 spices) is used for adding flavour to Dail. Dail was not originally eaten by the indigenous people of Assam, but has slowly been adopted and adapted to local preferences due to external influences.

Preparations

Although the modern cuisine of Assam has been influenced to a small extent by East and North Indian cuisine, Assam is still rich in traditional dishes which are similar to the cuisines of East Asian and South-East Asian nations.

Khar

An Assamese 'khar'(Kharwai-a traditional Kachari tribe dish) recipe preparation with rohu fish head

The khar is a signature class of preparations made with a key ingredient, also called khar. The traditional ingredient is made by filtering water through the ashes of the sun-dried skin of a few varieties of

pulses
, fish or any other main ingredient.

Xôkôta is a severely bitter type of preparation. It is prepared with dry

bitter gourd
, Xukuta, Titaphool, Sewali Phool etc.

Masor tenga

Dhekiyaxak and outenga

The masor tenga is a light and sour

Indian chestnut vine) and lentil is a distinct tenga curry
.

Naraxingho masor jul

The naroxingho masor jul is another authentic dish from Assam.The fishes are cooked in a light gravy of curry leaves which is a common aromatic herb used in southern and some northern parts of India. The curry leaves are also known as noro-xingho paat in Assamese. The fish preparations in Assam emphasize on retaining the natural flavours of the fish, and hence, few spices are used.

Pura

Pura maas mankho

Pura refers to various forms of grilled and roasted food. Vegetables, meat and fish are often served in this form. Aalu bengena pura pitika, pura maas pitika (mashed grilled fish), pura mankho etc. are a few of the popular dishes.

Poitabhat

Poitabhat is a favourite dish in Assam during the summer season. Cooked rice is soaked overnight and left to ferment. It is and served with mustard oil, onion, chili, pickles, pitika (mashes), etc. The 'poitabhat' preparation is sometimes made alcoholic according to preference.

Pitika - পিটিকা

Side dishes called pitika - পিটিকা (mashes) is a signature characteristic of this cuisine. The most popular is aloo pitika - আলু পিটিকা (mashed

asiatic pennywort, matikaduri, tengamora leaves, heartleaf
, dôrôn (Leucus longifolia), etc. are roasted separately wrapped in banana leaves and mashed into 'pitika'.

Pickle

Pickles are made of

, etc. Panitenga and kharoli are signature Assamese pickles made from ground mustard seeds.

Chutney and salad

curry leaf, chilli, lentil, chickpea etc. Xukan masor (chutney made of dried fish) is popular among the tribal communities. Salad is made of carrot, radish, tomato, cucumber, beetroot
, etc.

Bor

'Bor' are fried balls of mashed lentil or gram — it is equivalent to vada in few other Indian languages. It may contain other green leafy vegetable locally called 'xaak' within it, and it is best while served with 'teteli' (tamarind) curry or dip. There is a huge variety of 'bora' preparations in Assamese cuisine. The base ingredients include greens, vegetables, fruits, flowers, skin, and shoots of various plants. 'Bora' can also be prepared from fish eggs etc.

Fritter

night-flowering jasmine
, etc. It is a new style of cooking somewhat having external influences.

Some other preparations

Panitenga

Some other preparations in Assamese cuisine include Kahudi, Panitenga, Khorikatdiya, Tenga sorsoriya, Posola, etc.

Beer

Xaj, a type of rice beer, offered in traditional utensils

Liquor is an integral part of linguistically and culturally diverse communities in Assamaese society. Rice is a primary ingredient for the many rice beers (Nam-lao - নাম-লাও) or (Laopani/Xaaj) and liquors made in Assam by different ethnic communities: zou (

Tiwa), Hor (Karbi), Photika - ফটিকা (Kachari
), etc.

Snacks and cakes

Jolpan

Jolpan (snacks) in

Komal Saul, Xandoh, Chira, Muri, Akhoi, Sunga saul, etc. eaten in combination with hot milk, curd, jaggery, yogurt
or seasonal ripe fruits. These are probably some of the earliest forms of "cereals". Assamese people have been eating them mainly as breakfast for many centuries.

Pitha

Pitha (rice cake) is a special class of rice preparation generally made only on occasions like

Ghila Pitha, Xutuli Pitha, Sunga Pitha, Bhapotdiya Pitha, Lakhimi Pitha, Tora Pitha, Tekeli Pitha, Deksi Pitha
, Muthiya Pitha, Kholasapori Pitha, etc.

It is made in other areas of East and South-East Asia and has similarities with them rather than any Mainland Indian cuisine form etc.

Laru

Larus are

tilor laru
are often seen in Assamese cuisine.

Tea

Spiced tea
, Green Tea, Lemon tea (adding lemon juice to black tea), etc. Most of the Assamese people like to drink laal saah(red tea).

Tamul

An Assamese meal is generally concluded with the chewing of Tamul (

Piper betle), edible limestone and tobacco
. It is a routine item after every meal.

Notes

  1. ^ "639 Identifier Documentation: aho – ISO 639-3". SIL International (formerly known as the Summer Institute of Linguistics). SIL International. Retrieved 29 June 2019. Ahom [aho]
  2. ^ "Population by Religious Communities". Census India – 2001. Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India. Retrieved 1 July 2019. Census Data Finder/C Series/Population by Religious Communities
  3. ^ "Population by religion community – 2011". Census of India, 2011. The Registrar General & Census Commissioner, India. Archived from the original on 25 August 2015. 2011census/C-01/DDW00C-01 MDDS.XLS
  4. ^ (Das & Deka 2012)
  5. ^ "In the book Folk Literature of Assam, Prafulla Dutta Goswami mentions that all kinds of cattle were consumed by the inhabitants of Assam much before the caste system and the colonial order had taken over." (Barman 2018)
  6. ^ "Inspite of becoming Hindu, the Tai Ahoms have not given up their food habits, i.e., taking pork, beef, chicken, and rice beer." (Gogoi 2011:227)
  7. ^ Babbar, Purobi Queen Bee Of Assamese Cooking Archived 8 June 2007 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ Krich, John (6 July 2012). "Hot Like Fire: Asia's 5 Spiciest Cuisines 4.Assamese". Time. time.com. Retrieved 22 January 2013.
  9. ^ Janer, Zilkia (December 2012). "Assamese food and the politics of taste". Seminar (640). Retrieved 22 January 2013.
  10. ^ Fish Species of Assam
  11. ^ List of fishes in Kaziranga National Park
  12. ^ "Masor Tenga Recipe: How to Make Masor Tenga Recipe | Homemade Masor Tenga Recipe".

References