Berkhamsted
Berkhamsted | |
---|---|
Town | |
Region | |
Country | England |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | BERKHAMSTED |
Postcode district | HP4 |
Dialling code | 01442 |
Police | Hertfordshire |
Fire | Hertfordshire |
Ambulance | East of England |
UK Parliament | |
Berkhamsted (
The
After the castle was abandoned in 1495, the town went into decline, losing its borough status in the second half of the 17th century. Colonel Daniel Axtell, captain of the Parliamentary Guard at the trial and execution of King Charles I in 1649, was among those born in Berkhamsted. Modern Berkhamsted began to expand after the canal and the railway were built in the 19th century. In the 21st century, Berkhamsted has evolved into an affluent commuter town.[10]
The town's literary connections include the 17th-century hymnist and poet
History
Origin of the town's name
The earliest recorded spelling of the town's name is the 10th century
Through history spellings of the town's name have changed. Local historian Rev John Wolstenholme Cobb identified over 50 different versions of the town's name since the writing of the Domesday Book (such as: "Berkstead", "Berkampsted", "Berkhampstead", "Muche Barkhamstede", "Berkhamsted Magna", "Great Berkhamsteed" and "Berkhamstead".)[14][15] The present spelling was officially adopted in 1937 when the local council formally changed its name from Great Berkhampstead to Berkhamsted.[16] The town's local nickname is "Berko".[17]
Prehistory and Roman period
Neolithic, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Roman artefacts show that the Berkhamsted area of the Bulbourne Valley has been settled for over 5,000 years.[19][20][21] The discovery of a large number of worked flint chips provides Neolithic evidence of on-site flint knapping in the centre of Berkhamsted.[22] Several settlements dating from the Neolithic to the Iron Age (about 4500–100 BC) have been discovered south of Berkhamsted. Three sections of a late Bronze Age to Iron Age (1200–100 BC) bank and ditch, sixteen feet (five metres) wide by seven to thirteen feet (two to four metres) high and known as Grim's Ditch, are found on the south side of the Bulbourne Valley.[23][24] Another Iron Age dyke with the same name is on Berkhamsted Common, on the north side of the valley.[25][26]
In the late Iron Age, before the Roman occupation, the valley would have been within Catuvellauni territory.[23] The Bulbourne Valley was rich in timber and iron ore. In the late Iron Age, a four-square-mile (ten-square-kilometre) area around Northchurch became a major iron production centre, now considered to be one of the most important late Iron Age and Roman industrial areas in England.[27][25] Iron production led to the settlement of a Roman town at Cow Roast,[28] about two miles (three kilometres) northwest of Berkhamsted. Four Roman first century AD iron smelting bloomeries at Dellfield (one mile (two kilometres) northwest of the town centre) provide evidence of industrial activity in Berkhamsted.[29][30] Production ceased at the end of the Roman period. Other evidence of Roman-British occupation and activity in the Berkhamsted area, includes a pottery kiln on Bridgewater Road.[31][26][32] The town's high street still follows the line of the Roman-engineered Akeman Street, which had been a pre-existing route from St Albans (Verulamium) to Cirencester (Corinium).
During Roman occupation the countryside close to Verulamium was subdivided into a series of farming estates.[33] The Berkhamsted area appears to have been divided into two or three farming estates, each including one or more masonry villa buildings, with tiled roofs and underfloor heating.
- The remains of a villa were found close to the river in 1973 in the adjacent village of Northchurch. The oldest building, made of timber, was built in AD 60, rebuilt using stone in the early 2nd century, and enlarged to a ten-room building around AD 150. The house may have been empty for a period, reoccupied in the 4th century, and abandoned in the late 4th or early 5th century.[34][35]
- A Roman-British villa, dyke, and temple were found 1.25 miles (2.0 km) NNW of the castle, near Frithesden, at the edge of the Berkhamsted Golf Course. Excavations in 1954 revealed masonry foundations and tesserae floors. Together, the villa, dyke and temple form a unique complex, suggesting occupation in the late Iron Age and Roman period.[36]
- Two flint and tile walls from a Roman building were found north of Berkhamsted Castle in 1970. The construction of the castle's earthworks in the Middle Ages may have damaged this building.[31][37]
Anglo-Saxon settlement
The earliest written reference to Berkhamsted is in the will of
The parish of Berkhamsted St Mary's (in Northchurch) once stretched five miles (8.0 km) from the hamlet of Dudswell, through Northchurch and Berkhamsted to the former hamlet of Bourne End. Within Berkhamsted, the Chapel of St James was a small church near St John's Well (a 'holy well' that was the town's principal source of drinking water in the Middle Ages).[41] The parish of this church (and later that of St Peter's) was an enclave of about 4,000 acres (1,600 ha) surrounded by Berkhamsted St Mary's parish.[Notes 2][42][14][43] By the 14th century the adjoining village of "Berkhamsted St Mary" or "Berkhamsted Minor" name had become "North Church", later "Northchurch", to distinguish the village from the town of Berkhamsted.[42][14][34][40][44]
1066 and the Domesday survey
The Anglo-Saxons surrendered the crown of England to
According to the
Royal medieval castle (11th to 15th centuries)
The town became a trading centre on an important trade route in the 12th and 13th centuries, and received more royal charters. In 1216,
In 1217, Henry III recognised by royal charter the town's oldest institution, Berkhamsted's pre-existing market.
A 1290 taxation list mentions a brewer, a lead burner, a carpenter, leather workers, a
The town benefited when
Castle abandoned, the town in decline (16th to late 18th centuries)
In the 16th century, the town fell into decline after abandonment of the castle following the death of
In 1612, Berkhamsted Place was bought by
Born in Berkhamsted, Colonel
Development of the modern town (19th and 20th centuries)
19th century urban growth
In the 17th and 18th centuries Hemel Hempstead, with its thriving market, eclipsed Berkhamsted as the major town in the area.
19th century industry and utilities
Industries in the 19th century included:
- Timber: In the mid-18th century, Berkhamsted had been noted for turned wood products. Based on the extensive woodland resources of the area (principally alder and beech), the milling and turning of wood was the town's most prominent industry in the 19th century. The Crimean War contracts for supplying the army with lance poles and tent pegs led to major expansion.[114] The largest manufacturer was East & Sons.
- Brush making: An offshoot of the timber industry. The largest employers were Goss Brushworks at the west end of the High Street (closed 1930s) and T.H. Nash in George Street (closed 1920s).[114]
- The Canal trade provided a considerable economic stimulus to the town, enabling the development of industries which involved bulk transport of materials. These included timber and malt.[114]
- Boat building: Berkhamsted also became a centre for the construction of the barges needed for the canal trades.[115] A yard for building canal barges and other boats, between Castle Street and Raven's Lane wharves, was one of three important boatyards in Hertfordshire. It was owned by John Hatton until 1880 and then by William Costin until 1910, when it was taken over by Key's, the timber merchants which in 1969 was bought by another timber merchant J. Alsford before being redeveloped into flats in 1994. At this site, next to the canal, is the Berkhamsted Canadian totem pole.
- Watercress: The construction of the canal had helped to drain the marshy areas along the valley of the River Bulbourne. In 1883, the Berkhamsted Times congratulated Mr Bedford on having converted the remaining "dirty ditches and offensive marshes" into watercress beds.[116]
- Chemical: Cooper's vet who arrived in Berkhamsted in the early 1840s and experimented in treatments for scab in sheep. He formulated an innovative arsenic and sulphur sheep-dip.[114] The Cooper family firm was later inherited by his nephew, Sir Richard Cooper, 1st Baronet.
- Nurserymen: Henry Lane's nurseryman business, founded in 1777, became one of the largest employers in the town in the 19th century. Extensive nurseries are shown on the 1878 Ordnance Survey 25 inch plan, at the western end of the town.
- Iron working: Wood's Ironworks was set up in 1826 by James Wood.[116]
Utilities in the 19th century included:
- Gasworks: The Great Berkhamsted Gas, Light & Coke Co., at the junction of Water Lane and the Wilderness, was set up to provide street lighting in 1849. In 1906, the Berkhamsted Gas Works moved to Billet Lane; it closed in 1959.[100]
- Water and sewage: The Great Berkhamsted Waterworks Company was set up in 1864 on the High Street (on the present site of W.H. Smith and Boots). Mains drainage was first supplied in 1898–99, when effective sewerage was installed.[100]
Provision for the destitute
Land dispute: The Battle of Berkhamsted Common
The Battle of Berkhamsted Common played an important part in the preservation of common land nationally.[121] After 1604 the former Ashridge Priory became the home of the Edgerton family. In 1808-1814 Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, demolished the old priory, and built a stately home, Ashridge House. In 1848 the estate passed to the Earls Brownlow, a branch of the Egerton family.[122]
In 1866, Lord Brownlow of Ashridge House (encouraged by his mother,
Lord Brownlow brought a legal case against Smith for trespass and criminal damage, Smith was aided in his defence by
First World War
During the
20th century urban developments
In 1909 Sunnyside and later in 1935 Northchurch were added to Berkhamsted Urban District. Shortly after 1918 much of the extensive estate belonging to Berkhamsted Hall, at the east end of the High Street, was sold; many acres west of Swing Gate Lane were developed with council housing. More council housing was built at Gossoms End. Development on the north side of the valley was limited until the sale of the Ashridge estate in the 1930s, after which housing appeared at each end of Bridgewater Road.[132] In the second half of the 20th century, many of the old industrial firms in Berkhamsted closed, while the numbers of commuters increased.[133]
After the Second World War, in July 1946, the nearby town of Hemel Hempstead was designated a
Geography
Berkhamsted is situated 26 miles (42 km) northwest of London within the
The countryside surrounding the town includes parts of the
The layout of Berkhamsted's centre is typical of a medieval market settlement: the linear High Street (aligned on the Akeman Street) forms the spine of the town (roughly aligned east–west), from which extend medieval
Neighbouring settlements
Traveling on the high street away from the town, along the Bulbourne valley south-eastwards towards London, the A4251 road passes through the village of
Along the A4251 and valley northwestwards is the adjoining village of Northchurch, and the hamlets of Dudswell and Cow Roast, the village of Wigginton and the small market town of Tring (6.7 miles (11 km) distant) and the county town of Buckinghamshire Aylesbury at (13.9 miles (22 km) distant). Following the Chiltern Hills northwards, to the north-northwest is the village of Aldbury; situated to the north of Berkhamsted are the villages of Ringshall and Little Gaddesden (5.4 miles (9 km) distant); finally located to the north-east of the town are the villages and hamlets of Potten End, Frithsden and Great Gaddesden. The nearest large settlements to the north of Berkhamsted are the Bedfordshire towns of Dunstable (11.1 miles (18 km) distant) and Luton (13.8 miles (22 km).
Climate
Like most of the United Kingdom, Berkhamsted has an oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification Cfb).
Climate data for Berkhamsted | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 6 (43) |
7 (45) |
10 (50) |
12 (54) |
16 (61) |
19 (66) |
21 (70) |
22 (72) |
18 (64) |
14 (57) |
9 (48) |
6 (43) |
13 (55) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 3 (37) |
3 (37) |
4 (39) |
5 (41) |
8 (46) |
10 (50) |
12 (54) |
13 (55) |
11 (52) |
8 (46) |
5 (41) |
3 (37) |
7 (45) |
Average precipitation mm (inches) | 69.3 (2.73) |
59.4 (2.34) |
46.5 (1.83) |
70.1 (2.76) |
58.1 (2.29) |
58.9 (2.32) |
46.0 (1.81) |
68.9 (2.71) |
51.7 (2.04) |
84.3 (3.32) |
93.9 (3.70) |
80.9 (3.19) |
788.0 (31.02) |
Source: [146] |
Near-real-time weather information can be retrieved from Berkhamsted Weather Station page on the Met Office Weather Observation website.[147]
Governance
Berkhamsted is within the UK parliamentary constituency of South West Hertfordshire. Following the 2019 United Kingdom general election, Gagan Mohindra (Conservative Party) is the constituency's current Member of Parliament (MP).[149]
Berkhamsted has a town council, the first tier of local government that represents the local people to two higher tiers of local government,
Berkhamsted is split into three local government
Administrative history
Berkhamsted was an
In 1893 the town petitioned for the creation of a local board covering both Berkhamsted and Northchurch parishes, which would make it independent of the rural sanitary authority. An inquiry was held by a government inspector in December 1893, but he advised against the scheme. Hertfordshire County Council therefore did not pursue it, although did comment that an urban authority covering just the town itself rather than the two whole parishes might be more favourably received.[156][157]
Under the Local Government Act 1894, rural sanitary districts became rural districts on 28 December 1894, and so the town became part of the Berkhampstead Rural District. Parish councils were also established under the act, to take over the civil functions of the old vestries. The new parish councils came into being on 31 December 1894 if an election had been needed to choose the first parish councillors, as was the case at Berkhamsted. The first meeting of the parish council was held on 31 December 1894 at the Town Hall in Berkhamsted, with the first chairman of the parish council being Arthur Johnson, who was the rector of St Peter's Church in the town.[158]
Berkhamsted Urban District (1898–1974)
Berkhamsted Great Berkhampstead (1898–1937) | |
---|---|
Urban District | |
Berkhamsted Civic Centre, 161 High Street, Berkhamsted. | |
Population | |
• 1901 | 6,371 |
• 1971 | 15,255[159] |
History | |
• Created | 15 April 1898 |
• Abolished | 31 March 1974 |
• Succeeded by | Dacorum |
• HQ | Berkhamsted |
Contained within | |
• County Council | Hertfordshire |
Efforts to make the town independent of the rural district council continued. Eventually it was agreed that the parish would be split into a "Great Berkhampstead Urban" parish, which would become an urban district, and a "Great Berkhampstead Rural" parish, which would remain in the Berkhampstead Rural District. These changes came into force on 15 April 1898. The first meeting of the Great Berkhampstead Urban District Council was held on 15 April 1898, with David Osborn being elected the council's first chairman.[160][161] The Great Berkhampstead Rural parish ceded land to the urban district in 1935 and was abolished two years later, being split between Nettleden with Potten End, Northchurch, and Great Gaddesden on 1 April 1937.[162][163]
In 1908 the urban district council acquired a builder's yard and former Wesleyan chapel at 135 High Street (renumbered 161 High Street around 1950) to act as its offices and meeting place.[164] By the 1930s the council needed more space. In 1936 the council bought the shop adjoining the old chapel. Both buildings were demolished and the new Berkhamsted Civic Centre was built on the site, which formally opened on 14 October 1938.[165][166]
Until 1937 the official name of the council's area was the "Great Berkhampstead Urban District". At a meeting on 15 April 1937 the council discussed whether to change the name. It was commented that the inclusion of the "Great" in particular caused problems for people looking for the council's telephone number in the directory. The spelling "Berkhamsted" was also the more commonly used by this time. The change of name to "Berkhamsted Urban District" was agreed, and came into effect on 19 July 1937. The neighbouring Berkhampstead Rural District followed suit a few months later, becoming Berkhamsted Rural District on 1 November 1937.[167][16]
Berkhamsted Urban District was abolished under the Local Government Act 1972, becoming part of the district of Dacorum on 1 April 1974. Berkhamsted Town Council was created as a successor parish to the old urban district council. The town council continues to be based at the Civic Centre at 161 High Street.[168]
Demography
Homes
The Hertfordshire Local Information System (HertsLIS) website (based on data from the
In 2021 according to Rightmove the average cost of a home in Berkhamsted was £696,949. The majority of sales in the town were detached properties, with an average selling value of £1,076,244. The average terraced dwelling price was £563,291 and the average semi-detached properties went for £657,436. Overall, in 2021 property house prices in Berkhamsted were four per cent up on the previous year and five per cent up on the 2018 peak of £661,336.[173]
Employment and economic wellbeing
In mid-2016, the Office for National Statistics estimated the working age population of Berkhamsted (males and females aged 16 to 64) as 11,400, i.e. 62 per cent of the town's population. People from Berkhamsted were employed as follows: 17.5 per cent worked as managers, directors and senior officials; 27.5 per cent professional occupations and 8.5 per cent in associate professional and technical occupations; 10 per cent were employed in administrative and secretarial occupations; 7 per cent in skilled trades; 6 per cent Caring, leisure and other service occupations; 5 per cent were in sales and customer service occupations; 3 per cent were in process, plant and machine operatives; and 5.5 per cent worked in elementary occupations.[174]
According to HertsLIS in 2011, 76 per cent of Berkhamsted residents between the ages of 16 and 74 were employed (of which: full-time, 43 per cent; part-time, 13 per cent; self-employed, 14 per cent); and 24 per cent economically inactive (retired, 13 per cent; long-term sick/disabled, 2 per cent).[174] 1.5 per cent of Berkhamsted households included a person with a long-term health problem or disability, while nationally this figure is 4.05 per cent.[175] In April 2013, according to the Office for National Statistics on benefit claimants by constituency, the number of claimants on Jobseeker's Allowance (unemployment benefit) in Berkhamsted's South West Hertfordshire parliamentary constituency was 1.7 per cent, compared to 7.8 per cent for the UK.[176]
Diversity
Looking at broad ethnic heritage in 2011, HertsLIS data found that 90 per cent of residents were described as white British. Of the remainder, 1 per cent were Irish, 4 per cent were of other white origin, 1.7 per cent were described as mixed or multiple ethnic, 2.1 per cent were Asian or Asian British, 0.3 per cent were black African/Caribbean or black British and 0.3 per cent were Arab or any other ethnic group. Regarding religious beliefs in 2011, of the 92 per cent of residents who stated a religious preference, 30 per cent were non-religious and 59 per cent were Christian; other faiths included 0.4 per cent Buddhist, 0.5 per cent Jewish, 0.5 per cent Muslim and 0.1 per cent Sikh.[174]
Relationships and education
In 2011 the marital and civil partnership statuses of residents aged 16 and over were as follows: 28 per cent single, 56 per cent married, 0.1 per cent in a registered same-sex civil partnership, 2 per cent separated, 8 per cent divorced or legally dissolved same-sex civil partnership, and 6 per cent widowed or surviving partner from a same-sex civil partnership. Looking at the
Transport
Road
In 1762, this section of Akeman Street became part of the
Canal
In 1798, the Grand Junction Canal (built by William Jessop) from the River Thames at Brentford reached Berkhamsted; it reached Birmingham in 1805.[183] Castle Wharf, the port of Berkhamsted, on the south side of the canal between Ravens Lane and Castle Street, was the centre of the town's canal trade, navigation and boat building activities. It was a hub of the country's inland water transport system, linking the ports and industrial centres of the country. Goods transported included coal, grain, building materials and manure. Timber yards, boating wharves, breweries, boat building and chemical works flourished as a result of the canal, with over 700 workers employed locally. It is still known as the Port of Berkhamsted. Separately, Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater (the "Canal Duke" and "father of the inland waterway system"), lived in Ashridge, near Berkhamsted. The canal became part of the Grand Union Canal in 1929.[184]
Railway
In 1834, after opposition from
One and a half million journeys are made annually to and from Berkhamsted, the vast majority by commuters to and from London.
Economy and commerce
In 1986, farming, service and light industry were characteristic local employers.
In November 2014, the Academy of Urbanism's Urbanism Awards found Berkhamsted's High Street to be a "vibrant" and "bustling" road, which "worked extremely well as a quality high street."
Education
Independent schools
Incent was noted as one of the agents of the Lord Chancellor
Egerton Rothesay School, an independent school founded in 1922, has 150 pupils between the ages of 5 and 19.[197]
State schools
In the 1970s, the town adopted a three-tier state school education system, but reverted to the two-tier system of primary and secondary schools in 2013.[198]
Primary schools are: Victoria (founded in 1838), Bridgewater, Greenway, St Thomas More, Swing Gate, Thomas Coram and Westfield.[199] The secondary school is Ashlyns School, a Foundation school with 1,200 pupils aged 11 to 19 years; it is a specialist language college. The school started in the 18th century, when Thomas Coram, a philanthropic ship's captain, was appalled by the abandoned babies and children starving and dying in London. He campaigned for a hospital to accommodate them and was successfully granted a royal charter "for the Maintenance and Education of Exposed and Deserted Children" in 1739. Three years later, in 1742, he established the Foundling Hospital at Lamb's Conduit Fields in Bloomsbury, London. It was the first children's charity in the country and a precedent for incorporated associational charities everywhere.[200] The school moved to its purpose-built location in Berkhamsted in 1935. The residential home side at Berkhamsted closed following the Children Act 1948, when family-centred care replaced institutional care. In 1951 Hertfordshire County Council took over running the school.[201][202][203] The large school contains stained glass windows, especially around the chapel, a staircase and many monuments from the original London hospital. The school's chapel formerly housed an organ donated by George Frideric Handel.[201] The school was used a backdrop to the 2007 comedy film, Son of Rambow.[204]
Business school
In 2015, Ashridge merged with
Religious sites
The oldest extant church locally is St Mary's in the adjacent village of Northchurch. Between 1087 and 1104, there is reference to a chaplain called Godfrey and to a chapel of St James with parochial status within St Mary's Berkhamsted's parish. The chapel situated close to St Johns, located close to St John's Lane, was the base for a small community of monks, the Brotherhood of St John the Baptist, in the 11th and 12th centuries.[210][211][Notes 9]
During
The parish church of St Peter, which stands on the high street, is one of the largest churches in Hertfordshire.
The town has a strong Non-conformist tradition, in 1672 a survey found that there were 400 Anglian conformists and 150 Non-conformists in Berkhamsted, when such beliefs could bring you foul of the law. The
Culture and leisure
Literary connections
Geoffrey Chaucer was clerk of works at Berkhamsted Castle from 1389 and based his Doctor of Phisick in The Canterbury Tales on John of Gaddesden, who lived in nearby Little Gaddesden. William Cowper was born in Berkhamsted Rectory in 1731. Although he moved away when still a boy, there are frequent references to the town in his poems and letters. In the Victorian era, Cowper became a cult figure and Berkhamsted was a place of pilgrimage for his devotees. Maria Edgeworth, a prolific Anglo-Irish writer of adults' and children's literature who was a significant figure in the evolution of the novel in Europe, lived in Berkhamsted as a child in the 18th century.[26] Between 1904 and 1907, the Llewelyn Davies boys were the inspiration for the author and playwright J. M. Barrie's Peter Pan.[221] A little later, novelist Graham Greene was born in Berkhamsted and educated at Berkhamsted School, alongside literary contemporaries Claud Cockburn, Peter Quennell, Humphrey Trevelyan and Cecil Parrott.[222] Children's authors H. E. Todd and Hilda van Stockum both lived in Berkhamsted. The comic character Ed Reardon from Radio 4's semi-naturalistic radio drama Ed Reardon's Week resides in Berkhamsted.
Cinema
The Rex Cinema is regarded by some, including
Prior to the cinema's construction, an Elizabethan mansion, Egerton House, had occupied the site at the east end of the high street for 350 years. The house was occupied briefly (1904–07) by Arthur and Sylvia Llewelyn Davies, whose children were J. M. Barrie's inspiration for Peter Pan.[230]
British Film Institute National Archive at King's Hill
Rarely open to the public, the BFI National Archive's "The J. Paul Getty, Jr. Conservation Centre" in Berkhamsted is the archive of the British Film Institute.[231] With over 275,000 feature, non-fiction and short films (dating from 1894) and 210,000 television programmes, it is one of the largest film archives in the world. Two of the archive's collections were added to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) UK Memory of the World Register, in 2011.[232] The archive collects, preserves, restores and shares the films and television programmes which have shaped and recorded British life and times since the development of motion picture film in the late 19th century. The majority of the collection is British-originated material, but the archive also features internationally significant holdings from around the world and films that feature key British actors and the work of British directors.
Sport and outdoor pursuits
The town benefits from having a large National Trust Common and woodland on its long north-east edge.
The Berkhamsted Bowmen are the oldest archery club in England.[222] Founded in 1875 Berkhamsted Cricket Club competes in the Herts League and in 2015 it ran twenty-five separate teams. The club is based at the Berkhamsted Community Cricket and Sports Club, Kitcheners Field, Castle Hill, Berkhamsted. The nine Berkhamsted and Hemel Hempstead Hockey Club teams are based just outside the town at Cow Roast, playing their matches on their astroturf pitch[240] at the club grounds in Cow Roast. There are two Bowls clubs, Berkhamsted and Kitcheners.[241]
The town's football club,
There is a sports centre off Douglas Gardens, managed by EveryoneActive. The facilities comprise a large indoor multi-purpose sports hall, squash courts, swimming pool and outdoor all-weather pitch. This facility is complemented by dual use of the leisure facilities of Ashlyns School and Berkhamsted Collegiate School. A deficit in leisure space is compounded by a high level of sports participation locally and consequent heavy use of outdoor sports pitches. Berkhamsted and the surrounding area has a variety of road cycling and mountain biking routes, including traffic-free off-road routes in Ashridge Estate.[245] The town was visited by the Tour of Britain in 2014.[246]
Media
Berkhamsted is within the BBC London and ITV London region. Television signals are received from the Crystal Palace TV transmitter [247] and the local relay transmitter situated in Hemel Hempstead. [248]
Local radio stations are BBC Three Counties Radio on 103.8 FM, Heart Hertfordshire on 96.6 FM, Greatest Hits Radio Bucks, Beds and Herts (formerly Mix 96.2) on 92.2 FM and community based stations, Radio Dacorum [249] and Tring Radio [250] which both broadcast online.
The town is served by the local newspaper, Hemel Hempstead Gazette & Express. [251]
Sites of interest
The majority of Berkhamsted's eighty-five listed or scheduled historical sites are on in the high street and the medieval core of the town (a significant number of them contain timber frames). Four are scheduled, one is Grade I, seven are Grade II*, the remaining 75 are Grade II.[252][253] In addition to the sites noted in the article above (such as the castle and schools) the following structures and locations are of interest:
- jeweller's or goldsmith's shop with a workshop behind. It is now believed to have been a jettied service wing to a larger aisled hall house, which has since disappeared.[24] It represents an early example of transition in carpentry technology, from the use of passing braces to crown posts. The 13th-century origin of the structure was discovered by chance in 2000 by builders who had begun work on what appeared to be a Victorian property. The shop was, from 1869, Figg's the Chemists; post-restoration (with expertise and a £250,000 grant from English Heritage), the shop is currently used as an estate agency. Dr Simon Thurley, Chief Executive of English Heritage, said "This is an amazing discovery. It gives an extraordinary insight into how Berkhamsted High Street would have looked in medieval times."[255]
- 125 High Street, a house and shop opposite St Peter's Church, is a timber-framed building with a wing that is one bay of a 14th-century open hall. The layout suggests that it once had a second bay of similar size – a length of 26 feet (8 m) in all. This was an unusually large house; its size and central position suggests a manor house or other high status house, possibly supporting the castle. The building underwent extensive alterations in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.[256]
- The Swan, 139 High Street, contains the remains of a medieval open hall. Parts of the roof date from the 14th century, and the street range was extended and a chimney stack added c. 1500. It sits on the ancient junction with the old Roman road of Akeman Street (High Street) and the main route between Berkhamsted and Windsor Castle (Chesham Road).[24]
- Castle Street began life as the medieval lane from the town's high street to the drawbridge of the royal castle. At the other end of the lane was the parish church of St Peters. In the 16th century, next to the church, Berkhamsted school was founded, while in the 17th century there were seven public houses among the street's trade outlets.[257]
- To the northwest of Berkhamsted stand the ruins of Marlin's Chapel, a 13th-century chapel next to a medieval fortified farm. The walls and moat surrounding the modern farm still remain and are reputed to be haunted.[85]
- 129 High Street is the Grade II* listed house known as Dean Incent's House. (John Incent, Dean of St Paul's, founded Berkhamsted School.) A 15th century half-timbered house, the interior has original exposed timber framing and several Tudor wall paintings. The building incorporates part of an even older structure and was used as public meeting place before the Court House was built. The house is not normally open to the public.[178][258]
- The Court House, next to the church, dates from the 16th century, and is believed to lie on the site of the medieval court where the Portmote [Notes 10] or Borough Court was held.[24]
- Sayer's Almshouses, were the legacy of John Sayer, chief cook to Charles II, at 235–241 High Street, comprise a single-storey row of almshouses built in 1684.[262]
- The Bourne School, at 222 High Street, was the legacy by Thomas Bourne (1656–1729) (Master of the Company of Framework Knitters) to build a charity school in Berkhamsted for 20 boys and 10 girls. The front was rebuilt in 1854 in Jacobean-style red brick; it is not clear if any part of the building predates 1854. In 1875, the pupils were transferred to the National School and the funds used for scholarships.[263]
- The site now occupied by the Pennyfarthing Hotel dates from the 16th century, having been a monastic building used as accommodation for religious guests passing through Berkhamsted or going to the monastery at Ashridge.
- Dacorum Borough Council (based in Hemel Hempstead) there were plans to demolish the building; these plans were stopped in the 1970s and 1980s by a ten-year citizens' campaign, which eventually ended at the High Court.[264]
- The Berkhamsted Raven, the trickster and creator deity; he sits on the head of Sunman, who has outstretched arms representing the rays of the sun and wears a copper (a type of ceremonial shield); Sunman stands on the fearsome witch-spirit Dzunukwa; at the base is the two-headed warrior sea serpent, Sisiutl, who has up-stretched wings.[267]
- Frithsden Beeches Wood.[269] The climbable monument to Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, a tall Doric column with urn (a Grade II* listed building), stands in a grove within Ashridge.
Associations with the town
Twin towns
Berkhamsted is
The town also has an informal relationship with
Footnotes
- ^ Æthelgifu's will is one of only seventeen existing wills in Old English, and it is the most extensive of them. It gives much more detail on slave and land ownership in this period than any other document, and shows that a woman could have considerable wealth. The will is written on vellum in a minuscule hand, and the original still exists; an American consortium bought it in 1969, and it is now in New Jersey.[38]
- ^ This left an exclave of the St Mary's parish, which later became the village of Bourne End, southeast of Berkhamsted.
- ^ Edmer Ator was evidently a senior landholding noble who had held 36 places over 7 counties prior to the Norman conquest, as recorded in the Domesday Book.[52]
- Danish settlers in the area. A monk writing about this area described it as "the Hundred of the Danes", using the word Daneis. The word was later incorrectly transcribed as "Danicorum" and subsequently shortened to "Dacorum".[58]
- ^ The patronymic is sometimes rendered "Fitz Piers", since he was the son of Piers de Lutegareshale, forester of Ludgershal.
- Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall, was elected King of Germany, or Holy Roman Emperor, in 1256.
- ^ The market had been in existence since at least 1086. It was originally held on a Sunday, but by this charter it was changed to Monday, as the rector of the new St Peter's Church objected to the noise. The market is now held on a Saturday.
- ^ Also referred to as portmanmoot or portmoot. The name had Anglo-Saxon origins; the court had aspects both of court and of council meeting.[259][260][261]
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- ^ "Special trees and woods — Frithsden Beeches". Chilterns Conservation Board. Archived from the original on 13 June 2011. Retrieved 16 February 2010.
- ^ "Twin towns". Dacorum Borough Council. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 23 September 2014.
Sources
- Birkin, Andrew (2003) [1979]. J.M. Barrie and the Lost Boys. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0-300-09822-8.
- Birtchnell, Percy (1988). Short History of Berkhamsted. Berkhamsted: Book Stack. ISBN 978-187137200-7.
- (see also Birtchnell, Percy (1975) Bygone Berkhamsted. Luton: White Crescent Press ISBN 0-900804-13-0)
- (see also Birtchnell, Percy (1975) Bygone Berkhamsted. Luton: White Crescent Press
- Brown, Reginald Allen (1989). Castles from the Air. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. ISBN 978-052132932-3.
- Cobb, John Wolstenholme (1883). Two Lectures on the History and Antiquities of Berkhamsted (2nd ed.). London, UK: Nichols and Sons. OCLC 693003587.
- Eyles, Allen; Skone, Keith (2002). Cinemas of Hertfordshire (revised ed.). Hatfield: Hertfordshire Publications. ISBN 978-0-9542189-0-4.
- Hastie, Scot (1996). A Hertfordshire Valley. Kings Langley, UK: Alpine Press. ISBN 978-0-952863106.
- Hastie, Scot (1999). Berkhamsted, an Illustrated History. Kings Langley, UK: Alpine Press. ISBN 978-0-9528631-1-3.
- Healey, R. M. (1982). Hertfordshire: A ISBN 978-0-57111-801-4.
- Hillaby, Joe G.; Hillaby, Caroline (2013). The Palgrave Dictionary of Medieval Anglo-Jewish History. Basingstoke, UK: Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN 978-1-137-30815-3.
- Liddiard, Robert (2005). Castles in Context: Power, Symbolism and Landscape, 1066 to 1500. Macclesfield, UK: Windgather Press. ISBN 978-095455752-2.
- Mackenzie, James Dixon (1896). Castles of England: Their Story and Structure. Vol. 1. New York: Macmillan. OCLC 12964492.
- Page, William (1905). The Victorian History of the County of Buckingham. Vol. 1. London: Constable.
- Page, William, ed. (1908). The Victoria History of the County of Hertfordshire. Vol. 2. London: Constable. OCLC 59519149.
- Pettifer, Adrian (1995). English Castles: a Guide by Counties. Woodbridge, UK: Boydell Press. ISBN 9780851156002.
- Reece, Henry (2013). The Army in Cromwellian England 1649 – 1660. Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-820063-5.
- Remfry, Paul (1998). Berkhamsted Castle. Dacorum Heritage Trust. ISBN 978-0-9510944-1-9.
- Rowe, Anne (2007). "The distribution of parks in Hertfordshire: Landscape, lordship and woodland". In Liddiard, Robert (ed.). The Medieval Park: New Perspectives. Macclesfield, UK: Windgather Press. pp. 128–145. ISBN 978-1-9051-1916-5.
- Sanecki, K.A. (1996). Ashridge – A Living History. Chichester, UK: Phillimore. ISBN 978-1-86077-020-3.
- Sherwood, Jennifer (2008). "Influences on the growth of medieval and early modern Berkhamsted". In Wheeler, Michael (ed.). A County of Small Towns: the Development of Hertfordshire's Urban Landscape to 1800. Hatfield, UK: Hertfordshire Publications. pp. 224–248. ISBN 978-190531344-0.
- Slater, T.R.; Goose, Nigel (2008). A County of Small Towns: the Development of Hertfordshire's Urban Landscape to 1800. Hatfield, UK: University of Hertfordshire Press. ISBN 978-190531344-0.
- Tearle, John (1998). The Berkhamsted Totem Pole. Lillydown House. ISBN 978-0952813118.
- Thompson, Isobel; Bryant, Stewart (2005). Extensive Urban Surveys: Berkhamsted, Revision 2005 (PDF) (Report). Historic Environment Unit, Hertfordshire County Council.
- Whitelock, Dorothy (1968). The Will of Æthelgifu. Oxford: Roxburghe Club, Oxford. OCLC 108189.
- Williamson, Tom (2010). The Origins of Hertfordshire. Hatfield, UK: Hertfordshire Publications. ISBN 978-190531395-2.
External links
- Berkhamsted Town Council
- Berkhamsted Local History & Museum Society
- The above society's Collection of Old Photographs of Berkhamsted and its citizens
- Dacorum Heritage Trust