Blaufränkisch

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Blaufränkisch
Grape (Vitis)
Blaufränkisch grapes growing in Burgenland, Austria
SpeciesVitis vinifera
Also calledmodra frankinja, Lemberger, Blauer Limberger, Frankovka (Franconia), Kékfrankos, Gamé
OriginLower Styria (now part of Slovenia)
Original pedigreeGouais blanc (Weißer Heunisch; male parent) × Blaue Zimmettraube
Pedigree parent 1Gouais blanc
Pedigree parent 2Blaue Zimmettraube
Notable regionsSopron, Villány, Szekszárd and Eger
Notable winesEgri Bikavér
VIVC number1459

Blaufränkisch (

tannin and may exhibit a pronounced spicy character.[2]

The grape is grown across Central Europe, including Austria, Czech Republic (in particular southern Moravia where it is known as Frankovka), Germany, Slovakia (where it is known as Frankovka modrá), Croatia, Serbia (frankovka), Slovenia (known as modra frankinja), and Italy (Franconia). In Hungary the grape is called Kékfrankos (also lit. blue Frankish) and is grown in a number of wine regions including Sopron, Villány, Szekszárd, and Eger (where it is a major ingredient in the famous red wine blend known as Egri Bikavér (lit. Bull's Blood) having largely replaced the Kadarka grape). It has been called "the Pinot noir of the East" because of its spread and reputation in Eastern Europe.[1] In America the grape is also known as Lemberger, Blauer Limberger or Blue Limberger and grown in Pennsylvania, Washington state, Michigan, New Jersey,[3] Idaho, New York, Colorado,[4] Ohio, Virginia.[5] and California,[6]

DNA profiling has shown that Blaufränkisch is a cross between Gouais blanc (Weißer Heunisch; male parent) and Blaue Zimmettraube (female parent; the offspring of Blauer Gänsfüsser). Historical sources of grapevine classification have provided very solid evidence that the geographic area of origin of the variety is Lower Styria (today Slovenian Styria).[7] For a long time before the application of DNA analysis, Blaufränkisch was erroneously thought to be a clone of the Gamay grape variety, due to certain similarities in morphology and possibly due to its name Gamé in Bulgaria.[1]

The German name Lemberger derives from the fact that it was imported to Germany in the 19th century from

Austro-Hungarian Empire. An 1877 export of Lembergerreben to Germany has been recorded. The almost identical name Limberger refers to Limburg at Maissau in Lower Austria, where in the late 19th century "ungrafted Limberg Blaufränkisch vines" (wurzelechte Limberger Blaufränkisch-Reben) were offered for sale.[1]

History and origins

DNA analysis has shown that Blaufränkisch is a crossing of Gouais blanc (pictured) and another unknown variety.

While the first officially documented appearance of Blaufränkisch did not occur until 1862 when the grape was included in a

Hunnic grapes. It is likely that from sometime during this period up until the 1900s, Blaufränkisch (literally Blue Frankish) began to be grown in the region.[8]

Despite the close association to Franconia,

synonyms originating from these areas as well as DNA evidence showing that the old Hungarian wine grape Kékfrankos was, in fact, Blaufränkisch, and that Gouais blanc (Weisser Heunisch) and an unknown grape variety are the parent varieties of Blaufränkisch. Despite its French name, it has been speculated that Gouais blanc has Eastern European origins, with the term "Heunisch" thought to derive from the Huns, and Gouais blanc being confirmed as a parent variety of another old Hungarian wine grape Furmint, but ultimately the exact birthplace of both Gouais blanc and Blaufränkisch are unknown.[8]

The synonyms Lemberger and Limberger first appeared in literature near the end of the 19th century in relation to the grape's believed origins from the

Colmar, France adopted Blaufränkisch as an officially sanctioned name.[8]

Viticulture

Blaufränkisch leaf from Red Willow Vineyard in Washington State.

The Blaufränkisch vine is known as an early

powdery and downy mildews.[8]

Blaufränkisch is considered a high productive vine capable of producing high

harvested at 100 hectolitres per hectare (4,300 US quarts per acre). However over-cropping the vine has a tendency to produce thin wines with many green, weedy notes.[9]

Wine regions

Today Blaufränkisch is planted across the globe from

Austria.[8]

Austria

Blaufränkisch is widely grown throughout the Burgenland region of eastern Austria.

It is possible that Blaufränkisch or a similar forerunner of the grape was already cultivated in regions of present Austria (Lower Austria and Burgenland) in the 10th century. In his 1777 publication Beschreibung der in der Wiener Gegend gemeinen Weintrauben-Arten, ampelographer Sebastian Helbling accounted the variety as one of the best red grape varieties of Lower Austria, and used the name Schwarze Fränkische for it.[1][8]

In present-day Austria Blaufränkisch is the second most important red grape variety after

Pannonian Plain, and the sheltering influence of the hill regions to the north, south and west of the region.[8]

Outside the Burgenland, 807 hectares (1,990 acres) of Blaufränkisch were planted in the

vineyard soils south of the lake in the Südburgenland tend to produce wines with more spice notes.[8]

In the Carnuntum area located between Vienna and the Neusiedlersee, the slate-based soils near the city of Spitzerberg are also home to some Blaufränkisch plantings.[8]

Districtus Austriae Controllatus and wine styles

In the Leithaberg DAC, Blaufränkisch is often blended with St. Laurent (pictured)

Within Austria Blaufränkisch is a permitted variety in several Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) zones. Producers in the Burgenland tend to delineate light bodied, unoaked Blaufränkisch wines to the Mittleburgenland DAC Classic, while labeling more full bodied, oaked styles as Burgenland DAC Reserve.[8]

In the Eisnberg DAC of the southern Südburgenland, the grape is grown in iron-rich soils and tends to produce a distinctive varietal style. In the Leithaberg DAC situated in the slate and limestone hills around the Leitha Mountains, Blaufränkisch must make up at least 85% of the blend, with St. Laurent, Zweigelt or Pinot noir permitted to round out the remaining portion. In this cooler climate wine region the Blaufränkisch tends to be, as described by Robinson, "nervy and elegant".[8]

In Austria, Blaufränkisch tends to produce

aging in the barrel. The unoaked styles tend to be lighter bodied while the oaked versions tend to be fuller bodied.[8]

Other European wine regions

In Germany, there are 1,729 hectares (4,270 acres) of Blaufränkisch, grown primarily in the

light bodied wines with softer tannins than the style typically made in Austria.[8]

Blaufränkisch, known here as Frankovka, is the second most widely grown red grape variety in the

Moravian wine subregions due to its late-ripening nature. Almost 9% of the total vineyard area in Slovakia (1,742 hectares or 4,300 acres) is planted to Blaufränkisch, where the grape is more widely known as Frankovka modrá. In the city of Bratislava, specifically the suburb of Rača, local wine producers hold an annual wine festival that highlights Frankovka modrá wines from the region as well as examples of Blaufränkisch from around the globe.[8]

Blaufränkisch/Kékfrankos vines growing the Mecseknádasd region of southwest Hungary.

In Hungary, the grape is known as Kékfrankos (literally "Blue Frankish") and Nagyburgundi. There are more than 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres) of the variety planted throughout the country, particularly around

Egri Bikaver (Bull’s Blood).[2]

In Slovenia, the grape is known as Modra Frankinja. At present, there are 2,759,316 reeds of Blue Frankish that are planted in Slovenia, which grow on almost 700 hectares of wine-growing areas. This represents 4.68 percent of all plantations in the country. The variety of Blue Frankish is spread in two wine-growing regions Podravje and Posavje. It's the fourth most common variety of red grapes in Slovenia.

Blaufränkisch goes by the name Burgund Mare in

Beaujolais wine region of France until DNA evidence proved that it was in fact Blaufränkisch.[8]

In Croatia, the nearly 880 hectares (2,200 acres) of Blaufränkisch, known as Frankovka, represent around 2.7% of all Croatian vineyard plantings. This number is expected to rise, as many plantings previously thought to be a different variety, Borgonja, have now been proven by DNA testing to be Blaufränkisch. Most of the Croatian plantings are found in the

Serbia, most of the plantings of Blaufränkisch are found in the province of Vojvodina.[8]

In

Spanish wine region of Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, where a German-descended winemaker is making varietal wines under the synonym Lemberger.[8]

New World wine regions

Lemberger wine from Washington State.

In the

Okanagan Valley.[2][8]

The grape can be found across the United States, from the

Colorado and the greater Southeastern New England AVA.[2]

In Canada, Lemberger is found in several planting in the Niagara Peninsula DVA.

Washington Lemberger

Along with Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and Kiona Vineyard on Red Mountain, Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley (pictured) is home to some of the oldest Lemberger vines in Washington State.

The grape has a long history in Washington State, where it known mostly as Lemberger. Here the grape has been used to produce a variety of styles from light bodied

fortified wines. The grape was a favorite of Dr. Walter Clore, the "father of Washington wine". He encouraged the grape's planting throughout the Yakima Valley AVA in the 1960s and 1970s.[12] In 1976, John Williams of Kiona Vineyard in what is now the Red Mountain AVA planted a few hectares that would be used in 1980 to make the first commercial Lemberger wine produced in Washington.[13][14]

As of 2011 there were 30 hectares (74 acres) of the variety planted throughout the

Rattlesnake Hills and Columbia Gorge AVAs.[2][8][14]

Despite the grape's history, winemakers have had a difficult time marketing the grape due to consumers' association of the name Lemberger with the

proprietary name "Blue Franc" to avoid using the names Lemberger or Blaufränkisch which have also not fared well among consumers.[12][13][14][15][16]

According to wine expert

aromas and flavors of ripe berry fruit.[14]

Wines and food pairings

Wines made from Blaufränkisch are often characterized by berry fruit flavors and peppery spice notes.

Blaufränkisch wines have

age.[8]

According to wine expert

oak aging. However, Clarke notes that wines from Blaufränkisch can take on too much oak flavoring and come across as excessively oaky. When blended with other varieties, Blaufränkisch often contributes acidity and structure to the blend.[9]

In

lamb dishes and grilled meats.[14]

Offspring and relationship to other varieties

At one time it was believed that Blaufränkisch was a

Grolleau noir, Muscadelle and Colombard.[8]

In Germany Blaufränkisch was crossed with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce Cabernet Mitos (pictured).

Blaufränkisch is a parent to

crossing with St. Laurent (also known as Sankt Laurent) done in 1922 by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt at the Klosterneuburg research facilities in Vienna. This same Blaufränkisch x Sankt Laurent pairing was used to produce the Czech/Slovak grape André. Dr. Zweigelt also crossed Blaufränkisch with Blauer Portugieser to produce Blauburger, with August Herold using the same pairing to produce Heroldrebe in 1929 at the Weinsberg research center in Baden-Württemberg. Also at Weinsberg, Blaufränkisch was crossed with Dornfelder to produce Acolon, and with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce both Cabernet Cubin and Cabernet Mitos in 1970.[8]

In 1951 researchers at the

Szent István University in Hungary crossed Blaufränkisch with Kadarka to produce Rubintos. Two years later they crossed the grape with Muscat Bouschet, (an offspring of Petit Bouschet), to produce Magyarfrankos.[8]

In 1986 Blaufränkisch was crossed with

Geilweilerhof to produce Reberger.[8]

Synonyms

Over the years Blaufränkisch has been known under a variety of synonyms including Blanc doux, Blau Fränkisch, Blau Fränkische, Blauer Limberger (Germany), Blaufränkische, Blaufranchis, Blaufranchisch, Blue French, Borgonja (Croatia), Burgund Mare (Romania), Cerne Skalicke, Cerne Starosvetske, Cerny Muskatel, Chirokolistny, Cierny Zierfandler, Crna Frankovka (Croatia), Crna Moravka, Fernon, Fränkische, Fränkische schwarz, Franconia (Italy), Franconia nera (Itay), Franconia nero, Franconien bleu, Franconien noir, Frankinja, Frankinja modra, Frankovka (Croatia, Serbia, Czech Republic), Modra Frankinja (Slovenia), Frankovka modra (Slovakia), Imbergher, Jubiläumsrebe, Gamay noire, Gamé (Bulgaria), Karmazin, Kék Frankos, Kékfrank, Kékfrankos (Hungary), Lampart, Lemberger (Germany and United States), Limberg, Limberger (Germany), Limberger blauer, Limberger noir, Limburske, Maehrische, Modra Frankija, Modra Frankinja, Modry hyblink, Moravka, Moravske, Muskateller schwarz, Nagy burgundi, Nagyburgundi (Hungary), Neskorak, Neskore, Neskore cierne, Noir de Franconie, Oporto (Slovakia), Orna Frankovka, Portugais lerouse, Portugais rouge, Portugieser rother, Pozdni, Pozdni skalicke cerne, Schwarz Limberger, Schwarze Fraenkische, Schwarzer Burgunder, Schwarzgrobe, Serina, Shirokolistnyi, Sirokolidtnyj, Sirokolstnii, Skalicke cerne, Starovetsky hrozen, Sura Liscina (Serbia), Szeleslevelü, Teltfürtü Kékfrankos, Vaghyburgundi, Velke bugundske and Vojvodin.[8][17]

References

  1. ^ a b c d e Wein-Plus Wein-Glossar: Blaufränkisch, accessed on January 23, 2013
  2. ^ a b c d e Appellation America "Lemberger Archived 2013-05-14 at the Wayback Machine" Accessed: January 20th, 2013
  3. ^ "Bellview Winery". Archived from the original on 2014-02-23. Retrieved 2014-02-05.
  4. ISBN 9781563054341
  5. ^ Blue Frankish – A Great Wine By Any Name WineCompass
  6. ^ "Alpen Cellars - LEMBERGER / BLAUFRANKISH". Archived from the original on 2016-07-04. Retrieved 2016-06-20.
  7. doi:10.5073/vitis.2016.55.135-143. Archived from the original
    on 2017-02-07. Retrieved 2016-11-24.
  8. ^
    ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2
  9. ^
    ISBN 0-15-100714-4
  10. ^ Wein-Plus Wein-Glossar: Blaufränkischland, accessed on January 23, 2013
  11. ^ Wine of Czech Republic: Statistics & Charts Archived 2011-07-19 at the Wayback Machine, accessed on June 26, 2011
  12. ^ a b c Leslie Kelly "Washington's Unsung Wine Needs a Name Change" Seattle Magazine, January 18th, 2013
  13. ^ a b Richard Kinssies "Wine Pick of the Week: 2001 Kiona Lemberger"' Seattle Post-Intelligencer June 17th, 2003
  14. ^
    ISBN 0-520-24869-4
  15. ^ Frank Prial "WINE TALK; And Now for Something a Little Different" The New York Times April 25th, 2001
  16. ^ Leslie Kelly "Lemberger Comes Into Its Own" The Spokesman-Review November 9th, 1993
  17. ^ Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) Blaufränkisch Archived 2012-01-21 at the Wayback Machine Accessed: January 18th, 2013
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