Caithness
Caithness | ||
---|---|---|
Country Scotland | | |
Council area | Highland | |
County town | Wick | |
Area | ||
• Total | 618 sq mi (1,601 km2) | |
Ranked 14th of 34 | ||
Demonym | Caithnesian | |
Chapman code | CAI |
Caithness (
.Caithness has a land boundary with the historic county of
The name was also used for the
Toponymy
The Caith element of the name Caithness comes from the name of a
The Gaelic name for Caithness, Gallaibh, means "among the strangers", referring to the Norse. The name of the Catti survives in the Gaelic name for eastern Sutherland, Cataibh,[1] and in the old Gaelic name for Shetland, Innse Chat.
Geography
Caithness extends about 30 miles (48 km) north-south and about 30 miles (48 km) east-west, with a roughly triangular-shaped area of about 712 sq mi (1,840 km2). The topography is generally flat, in contrast to the majority of the remainder of the North of Scotland. Until the latter part of the 20th century when large areas were planted in conifers, this level profile was rendered still more striking by the almost total absence of woodland.
It is a land of open, rolling farmland,
The county contains a number of lochs, though these are smaller in comparison with the rest of northern Scotland. The most prominent are Loch Heilen, St. John's Loch, Loch of Wester, Loch Scarmclate, Loch Watten, Loch of Toftingall, Loch Stemster, Loch Hempriggs, Loch of Yarrows, Loch Sand, Loch Rangag, Loch Ruard, Loch an Thulachan, Loch More, Loch Caluim, Loch Tuim Ghlais, Loch Scye, Loch Shurrery, Loch Calder and Loch Mey.
The underlying geology of most of Caithness is Old Red Sandstone to an estimated depth of over 4,000 metres (13,000 ft). This consists of the cemented sediments of Lake Orcadie, which is believed to have stretched from Shetland to Grampian during the Devonian period, about 370 million years ago. Fossilised fish and plant remains are found between the layers of sediment. Older metamorphic rock is apparent in the Scaraben and Ord area, in the relatively high southwest area of the county. Caithness's highest point (Morven) is in this area.
Because of the ease with which the sandstone splits to form large flat slabs (flagstone) it is an especially useful building material, and has been used as such since Neolithic times.
Natural heritage
Caithness is one of the
The underlying geology, harsh climate, and long history of human occupation have shaped the natural heritage of Caithness. Today a diverse landscape incorporates both common and rare habitats and species, and Caithness provides a stronghold for many once common breeding species that have undergone serious declines elsewhere, such as waders, water voles, and flocks of overwintering birds.
Many rare mammals, birds, and fish have been sighted or caught in and around Caithness waters.
Much of the centre of Caithness is known as the Flow Country, a large, rolling expanse of peatland and wetland that is the largest expanse of blanket bog in Europe. Around 1,500 km2 (580 sq mi) of the Flow Country is protected as both a Special Protection Area (SPA) and Special Area of Conservation (SAC) under the name Caithness and Sutherland Peatlands,[4][5] and a portion is further designated as the Forsinard Flows national nature reserve.[6]
In 2014 44 square miles (110 km2) of the eastern coastline of Caithness between Helmsdale and Wick was declared a Nature Conservation Marine Protected Area under the title East Caithness Cliffs.[7] The cliffs are also designated as both a Special Protection Area and a Special Area of Conservation.[8][9]
Early history
The Caithness landscape is rich with the remains of pre-historic occupation. These include the
Numerous bands of Norse settlers landed in the county, and gradually established themselves around the coast. On the Latheron (south) side, they extended their settlements as far as Berriedale. Many of the names of places are Norse in origin.[13] In addition, some Caithness surnames, such as Gunn, are Norse in origin.[14]
For a long time, sovereignty over Caithness was disputed between Scotland and the
The study of Caithness prehistory is well represented in the county by groups including Yarrows Heritage Trust,[15] Caithness Horizons[16] and Caithness Broch Project.
Local government
Early civic history
Caithness originally formed part of the shire or
The population by 1841 had reached 36,343.[20]
The county began to be used as a unit of local administration, and in 1890 was given an elected
Wick, a royal burgh, served as the county's administrative centre. The county council was based at the County Offices, 73, 75 and 77 High Street, Wick.[21]
In 1930, the parish councils were abolished under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1929.
1975–96
In 1975, the Local Government council and the burgh councils were superseded under the
Highland region was also created in 1975, as one of nine two-tier local government regions of Scotland. Each region consisted of a number of districts and both regions and districts had their own elected councils. The creation of the Highland region and of Caithness as a district involved the abolition of the two burgh councils in Caithness, Wick and Thurso, as well as the Caithness county council.
Wick, which had been the administrative centre for the county, became the administrative centre for the district.
In 1996 local government in Scotland was again reformed, under the
1996 to 2007
In 1996, Caithness and the other seven districts of the Highland region were merged into the unitary Highland
Until 1999 the Caithness management and committee areas consisted of 8 out of the 72 Highland Council
In 1999, however, ward boundaries were redrawn but management area boundaries were not. As a result, area committees were named after and made decisions for areas which they did not exactly represent. The new Caithness committee area, consisting of ten out of the 80 new Highland Council wards, did not include the village of Reay, although that village was within the Caithness management area. For area committee representation the village was within the Sutherland committee area.
New wards were created for elections this year, 2007, polling on 3 May and, as the wards became effective for representational purposes, the Highland Council's management and committee structures were reorganised. The Caithness management area and the Caithness area committee were therefore abolished.
2007 to date
In 2007 the
The ward management area is one of five within the corporate management area and until 2017 consisted of three wards, the Landward Caithness ward, the Thurso ward and the Wick ward. Each of the other ward management areas within the corporate management area consists of a single ward. In 2017 the three Caithness wards were reduced to two 'Town and County' wards, each returning four members to the Highland Council,[22] this was a reduction of two Councillors from the last election in 2012. The new wards are Thurso and Northwest Caithness[23] and Wick and East Caithness.[24]
Since 4 May 2017 Caithness has been represented by four Independent Councillors, two Scottish Conservative Councillors and two Scottish National Party Councillors. The current Chairman of the Caithness Committee is Donnie Mackay (Independent) and the Civic Leader position is held by A.I Willie Mackay (Independent) both being installed on 16 June 2017 at the first Caithness Committee of the new council.[25]
Parishes
Prior to implementation of the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889, civil administration parishes were also parishes of the
In the cases of two of the parishes, Thurso and Wick, each includes a burgh with the same name as the parish. For civil administration purposes each of these parishes was divided between the burgh and the landward (rural) area of the parish.
Civil parishes are still used for some statistical purposes, and separate census figures are published for them. As their areas have been largely unchanged since the nineteenth century this allows for comparison of population figures over an extended period of time.
Civil parish | Area in 1930 (hectares) |
Census 2001-03-27 |
Notes |
---|---|---|---|
1 Bower | 10,032 | 633 | Has the Stone Lud near its geographic centre |
2 Canisbay | 10,098 | 927 | Includes the village of John o' Groats and the Island of Stroma |
3 Dunnet | 5,241 | 582 | Includes the village of Dunnet and Dunnet Head |
4 Halkirk | 38,492 | 1,460 | Includes the village of Halkirk |
5 Latheron | 49,088 | 1,805 | Includes the villages of Latheron, Lybster and Dunbeath |
6 Olrig | 4,547 | 1,269 | Includes the village of Castletown
|
7 Reay | 18,452 | 694 | Includes the village of Reay Was, at one time, partly in the county of Sutherland |
8 Thurso Landward | 10,871 | 9,112 | A rural area around the burgh of Thurso |
9 Watten | 14,182 | 749 | Includes the village of Watten
|
10 Wick Landward
|
19,262 | 9,255 | A rural area around the burgh of Wick
|
Caithness County totals | 180,265 | 26,486 |
Halkirk was formed at the Reformation by the merger of the ancient parishes of Halkirk and Skinnet.[27] Watten was created from part of Bower parish in 1638.[28]
Community councils, 1975 to 2008
Although created under local government legislation (the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973) community councils have no statutory powers or responsibilities and are not a tier of local government. They are however the most local tier of statutory representation.
Under the 1973 Act, district councils were obliged to implement community council schemes. A Caithness district scheme was adopted in 1975, dividing the area of the district between 12 community councils.
Statutory status for community councils was continued under the
The area of the former district of Caithness is now covered by 12 community council areas which are numbered and described as below in the Highland Council's Scheme for the Establishment of Community Councils in Caithness, October 1997. Current community council names and contact details are given on a Highland Council website.[29]
- 1. Royal Burgh of Wick
- 2. Sinclair's Bay (including Keiss, Reiss and part of Wick)
- 3. Dunnet and Canisbay
- 4. Bower (excluding Gelshfield area)
- 5. Watten (including part of Bower i.e. Gelshfield area)
- 6. Wick south-east, Wick south-west and part of Clyth (i.e. Bruan) (Tannach & District)
- 7. Latheron, Lybster and remainder of Clyth (including Occumster, Roster and Camster)
- 8. Berridale and Dunbeath
- 9. Thurso
- 13. Halkirk south, Halkirk north-east, Halkirk north-west (excluding Lieurary, Forsie and Westfield area)
- 14. Castletown, Olrig, Thurso east (excluding area on west side of Thurso River)
- 15. Caithness West (that part on the west side of Thurso River only), Thurso West, Reay and part of Halkirk north-west (that part comprising Lieurary, Forsie and Westfield area)
Parliamentary constituency
The
Between 1708 and 1832 the Caithness constituency was paired with Buteshire as alternating constituencies: one constituency elected a member of parliament (MP) to one parliament and then the other elected an MP to the next. Between 1832 and 1918 Caithness elected an MP to every parliament.
In 1918 the Caithness constituency and Wick were merged into the then new constituency of Caithness and Sutherland. In 1997 Caithness and Sutherland was merged into Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross.
The Scottish Parliament constituency of Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross was created in 1999 and now has boundaries slightly different from those of the House of Commons constituency. It was replaced by the larger constituency of Caithness, Sutherland and Ross in 2011.
The modern constituencies may be seen as more sub-divisions of the Highland area than as representative of counties (and burghs). For its own purposes, however, the Highland Council uses more conservative sub-divisions, with names which refer back to the era of district councils and, in some cases, county councils.
In the
Towns and villages
In 2011, Caithness had a resident population of 26,486 (23,866 in 2001).
There are two towns in Caithness: Thurso and Wick.
There are also a few villages large enough to have amenities such as a shop, a cafe, a post office, a hotel, a church or a bank. These include
Other, smaller settlements include:
- Achingills
- Achreamie
- Achvarasdal
- Ackergill
- Altnabreac
- Auckengill
- Balnabruich
- Berriedale
- Bilbster
- Borgue
- Bower
- Brabsterdorran
- Braemore
- Broubster
- Brough
- Bruan
- Buldoo
- Bullavrochan
- Burnside
- Caberfeidh
- Canisbay
- Clyth
- Crosskirk
- Dorrery
- East May
- Forss
- Fresgoe
- Freswick
- Gillock
- Gills
- Ham
- Harrow
- Haster
- Houstry
- Huna
- Killimster
- Landhallow
- Latheron
- Latheronwheel
- Lower Smerral
- Mey
- Morven (the highest point of Caithness)
- Murkle
- Mybster
- Newlands of Geise
- Newport, Caithness
- Papigoe
- Ramscraig
- Reaster
- Reiss
- Roadside
- Roster
- Sarclet
- Scarfskerry
- Shebster
- Sibster
- Skirza
- Smerral
- Sordale
- Spittal
- Staxigoe
- Swiney
- Thrumster
- Ulbster
- Upper Camster
- Upper Lybster
- Westerdale
- Westfield
- Weydale
- Whiterow
Transport
Caithness is served by the Far North railway line, which runs west–east across the middle of the county serving Altnabreac and Scotscalder before splitting in two at Georgemas Junction, from where the east branch continues to Wick whilst the north branch terminates at Thurso.
Stagecoach Group provided bus transport between the major towns, and on to Inverness via Sutherland and Ross-shire.[30]
The ferry port at Scrabster provides a regular service to Stromness in the Orkney Islands. Ferries also run from Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope on South Ronaldsay. A summer-only ferry runs from John o' Groats to Burwick on South Ronaldsay.
Wick Airport provided regular flights to Aberdeen and Edinburgh until 2020 when Loganair and Eastern Airways cancelled their flights.[31] In 2021 there were no scheduled flights to and from Wick Airport. Starting on 11 April 2022, Eastern Airways started a scheduled operation to Wick from Aberdeen.[32]
Language
At the beginning of recorded history, Caithness was inhabited by the
It is sometimes erroneously claimed that Gaelic has never been spoken in Caithness, but this is a result of language shift to Scots,[34][35][36][37][38][39] and then towards Standard Scottish English during recent centuries.[40] The Gaelic name for the region, Gallaibh, translates as "Land of the Gall (non-Gaels)", a name which reflects historic Norse rule. Gaelic speakers seem to first figure in the early stage of the Scandinavian colonisation of Caithness, gradually increasing in numerical significance from the 12th century onwards.[41] Gaelic has survived, in a limited form, in western parts of the county.[40]
Records showing what languages were spoken apparently do not exist from before 1706, but by that time, "[I]f ye suppose a Parallel to the hypotenuse drawn from Week to Thurso, these on the Eastside of it speak most part English, and those on the Westside Irish; and the last have Ministers to preach to them in both languages." Similarly, it is stated at that time that there were "Seven parishes [out of 10 or 11] in [the Presbytery of] Caithness where the Irish language is used."[45]
As previously indicated, the language mix or boundary changed over time, but the New Statistical Record in 1841 says: "On the eastern side of [the Burn of East Clyth] scarcely a word of Gaelic was either spoken or understood, and on the west side, English suffered the same fate". Other sources state:
- "There are Seven parishes in [the Presbytery of] Caithness where the Irish language is used, viz. Thurso, Halkrig [Halkirk], Rhae [Reay], Lathrone [Latheron], Ffar [Farr], Week [Wick], Duirness [Durness]. But the people of Week understand English also." (Presbytery of Caithness, 1706)[45]
- "A presbytery minute of 1727 says of 1,600 people who had 'come of age', 1500 could speak Gaelic only, and a mere five could read. Gaelic at this time was the principal language in most parishes except Bower, Canisbay, Dunnet and Olrig".[46]
- "Persons with a knowledge of Gaelic in the County of Caithness (in 1911) are found to number 1,685, and to constitute 6.7 per cent of the entire population of three years of age and upwards. Of these 1,248 were born in Caithness, 273 in Sutherland, 77 in Ross & Cromarty, and 87 elsewhere.... By an examination of the age distribution of the Gaelic speakers, it is found that only 22 of them are less than 20 years of age."[47]
According to the 2011 Scotland Census, 282 (1.1%) residents of Caithness age three and over can speak Gaelic while 466 (1.8%) have some facility with the language. The percentage figures are almost exactly the same as for all of Scotland (1.1% and 1.7%, respectively).[48] Nearly half of all Gaelic speakers in the county live in Thurso civil parish. The town of Thurso hosts the only Gaelic-medium primary school unit in all of Caithness (see Language in Thurso).
The bilingual road sign policy of Highland Region Council has led to some controversy in the region. In 2008, eight of the ten Caithness representatives to the
Local media
Newspapers
News coverage tends to concentrate on the former counties of Caithness and Sutherland. The John O'Groat Journal is normally published on Fridays and The Caithness Courier on Wednesdays. The two papers share a website.[54]
Historically, they have been independent newspapers, with the Groat as a Wick-centred paper and the Courier as a Thurso-centred paper. Even now, the Groat is archived in the public library in Wick, while the Courier is similarly archived in the library in Thurso. The Courier was printed, almost by hand, in a small shop in High Street, Thurso until the early 60's by Mr Docherty and his daughter. The Courier traditionally covers that week's cases at Wick Sheriff Court.[55]
Radio
Caithness FM has been broadcasting since 1993 and the Orkney Commercial Radio, Superstation Orkney from Kirkwall from 2004 to 2014.[56]
See also
Constituencies
- Caithness (UK Parliament constituency) (1708 to 1918)
- Tain Burghs (UK Parliament constituency) (1708 to 1832)
- Wick Burghs (UK Parliament constituency) (1832 to 1918)
- Caithness and Sutherland (UK Parliament constituency) (1918 to 1997)
- Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross (UK Parliament constituency) (1997 to present)
- Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross (Scottish Parliament constituency) (1999 to 2011)
- Caithness, Sutherland and Ross (Scottish Parliament constituency) (2011 to present)
Other
- Caithness Broch Project
- Caithness Glass
- Clan Gunn
- Clan Sinclair
- Counties of Scotland
- List of counties of Scotland 1890–1975
- Local government in Scotland
- Local government areas of Scotland 1973 to 1996
- Maiden Paps, Caithness
- Medieval Diocese of Caithness
- Politics of the Highland council area
- Subdivisions of Scotland
References
- ^ a b c Gaelic and Norse in the Landscape: Placenames in Caithness and Sutherland Archived 21 September 2011 at the Wayback Machine. Scottish National Heritage. pp.7–8.
- ^ a b Jones, Charles (1997). The Edinburgh history of the Scots language. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. p. 394.
- The Press and Journal. 30 September 2017
- ^ "Caithness and Sutherland Peatlands SPA". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 31 January 2019. Retrieved 30 January 2019.
- ^ "Caithness and Sutherland Peatlands SAC". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 31 January 2019. Retrieved 30 January 2019.
- ^ "Forsinard Flows National Nature Reserve". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 31 January 2019. Retrieved 29 January 2019.
- ^ "East Caithness Cliff MPA(NC)". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 16 August 2019. Retrieved 30 August 2019.
- ^ "East Caithness Cliffs SPA". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 27 September 2019. Retrieved 27 September 2019.
- ^ "East Caithness Cliffs SAC". Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the original on 27 September 2019. Retrieved 27 September 2019.
- ^ "C.Michael Hogan, Castle bloody, The Megalithic Portal, ed. A. Burnham, 2007". Archived from the original on 10 June 2011. Retrieved 12 February 2008.
- ^ Scholarly essays in J.R. Baldwion and I.D. Whyte, eds. The Viking Age in Caithness, Orkney and the North Atlantic (Edinburgh University Press) 1993, give an overview.
- ^ "Priests and Picts". Caithness Archaeology. Archived from the original on 20 December 2016. Retrieved 7 August 2016.
- ISBN 9781136527098. Archivedfrom the original on 17 November 2023. Retrieved 7 August 2016.
- ISBN 978-1179979427. Retrieved 7 August 2016.
- ^ "Yarrows Heritage Trust – Home". yarrowsheritagetrust.co.uk. Archived from the original on 13 June 2018. Retrieved 16 March 2018.
- ^ "Caithness Horizons Museum". Archived from the original on 4 February 2017. Retrieved 3 February 2017.
- ^ Campbell, H F (1920). Caithness & Sutherland. Cambridge County Geographies. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. pp. 1–2.
- JSTOR 4048219.
- ISBN 978-0-7190-4540-0.
- ^ The National Cyclopaedia of Useful Knowledge, Vol.IV, (1848), London, Charles Knight, p.16
- ^ Historic Environment Scotland. "County Council Offices, 73, 75 & 77 High Street, Wick (LB48834)". Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ Butlin, Heather. "Council wards". highland.gov.uk. Archived from the original on 29 August 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2017.
- ^ Butlin, Heather. "Council ward information". highland.gov.uk. Archived from the original on 5 August 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2017.
- ^ Butlin, Heather. "Council ward information". highland.gov.uk. Archived from the original on 5 August 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2017.
- ^ Tarrant, Sylvia. "Caithness Committee Chair and Civic Leader appointed". highland.gov.uk. Archived from the original on 5 August 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2017.
- ^ Boundary changes as described in Boundaries of Counties and Parishes in Scotland, Hay Shennan, 1892
- ^ GENUKI. "Genuki: Halkirk, Caithness". genuki.org.uk. Archived from the original on 4 February 2021. Retrieved 30 January 2021.
- ^ GENUKI. "Genuki: Watten, Caithness". genuki.org.uk. Archived from the original on 5 February 2021. Retrieved 30 January 2021.
- ^ "Community 03 March 2008, accessed 3 March 2008" (PDF). Highland Council website. Archived from the original (PDF) on 24 October 2007. Retrieved 3 March 2008.
- ^ "Stagecoach North Scotland – Caithness and Sutherland Area Guide from 20 August 2018" (PDF). Retrieved 23 June 2019.[permanent dead link]
- ^ "Destinations". HIAL. Archived from the original on 25 October 2019. Retrieved 1 November 2019.
- ^ "Destinations". HIAL. Archived from the original on 7 July 2022. Retrieved 22 July 2022.
- ISBN 0-7486-0430-8, page 121
- ^ Jamieson, J. (1808), An Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish Language.
- ^ The New Statistical Account of Scotland (1845) Vol. XV
- ^ Transactions of the Hawick Archaeological Society (1863)
- ^ Murray, James A. H. (1873) The Dialect of the Southern Counties of Scotland, Transactions of the Philological Society, Part II, 1870–72. London-Berlin, Asher & Co.
- ^ Grant, William; Dixon, James Main (1921) Manual of Modern Scots. Cambridge, University Press.
- ^ The Scottish National Dictionary (1929–1976) vol. I
- ^ a b "1901–2001 – Gaelic in the Census" (ppt). linguae-celticae.org. Archived from the original on 7 December 2010. Retrieved 28 July 2008.
- ISBN 0-7486-0430-8, page 125
- ^ Mairi Robinson (editor-in-chief), The Concise Scots Dictionary, Aberdeen University Press, 1985 p.x
- ^ McColl Millar. 2007. Northern and Insular Scots. Edinburgh: University Press Ltd. p. 191
- ^ "SND Introduction". Archived from the original on 17 May 2013. Retrieved 8 March 2011.
- ^ a b Caithness of the Gael and the Lowlander Archived 8 September 2008 at the Wayback Machine
- ^ Omand, D. From the Vikings to the Forty-Five, in The Caithness book.
- ^ J. Patten MacDougall, Registrar General, 1912
- ^ 2011 Scotland Census Archived 4 June 2014 at the Wayback Machine, Table QS211SC.
- ^ "Bid to exclude Gaelic signs fails Archived 31 May 2014 at the Wayback Machine", BBC News, 6 March 2008.
- ^ Gordon Calder, "New bilingual sign sparks fresh wrangle Archived 31 May 2014 at the Wayback Machine," John O'Groat Journal, 10 August 2012.
- ^ Alisdair Munro, "‘Anti-Gaelic gunmen’ shoot road sign in Caithness Archived 12 July 2015 at the Wayback Machine", The Scotsman, 5 September 2013.
- ^ "Scottish Provincial Press Limited website". Archived from the original on 29 June 2007. Retrieved 28 June 2007.
- ^ "Services North – Search for local businesses in the North of Scotland". Caithness Courier. Archived from the original on 11 October 2007. Retrieved 28 June 2007.
- ^ "John O'Groat Journal – Home". johnogroat-journal.co.uk. Archived from the original on 20 October 2017. Retrieved 28 October 2017.
- ^ "Courts". John O'Groat Journal and Caithness Courier. Archived from the original on 25 December 2022. Retrieved 25 December 2022.
- ^ "Caithness FM". Archived from the original on 16 February 2009. Retrieved 10 July 2007.
External links
- Caithness Community Website
- Caithness Dialect Archived 4 May 2015 at the Wayback Machine
- Caithness Dialect at Scots Language Centre
- Caithness Arts website
- Castletown and District Community Council website
- Castletown Heritage Society
- Dunnet and Canisbay Community Council
- Castle of Mey website
- Castle Sinclair Girnigoe
- Caithness forum
- Caithness alternative community forum
- Caithness Broch Project