Cartier (jeweler)
Parent Richemont | | |
Website | www |
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Cartier International SNC, or simply Cartier (
Cartier is regarded as one of the most prestigious jewellery manufacturers.[4][8][9][10][11][12] Forbes ranked Cartier on its Most Valuable Brands list as 56th in 2020, with a brand value of $12.2 B and revenue of $6.2 B.[1][13]
Cartier has a long history of sales to royalty.
History
Early history
Louis ran the Paris branch, moving to the
In 1904, Brazilian pioneer aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Cartier designed a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel that was favored by Santos-Dumont and many other customers.[22] This was the first and only time the brand would name a watch after its original wearer.[23] The "Santos" watch was Cartier's first men's wristwatch. In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches.[24] Among the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau, who joined Louis Cartier in 1909 for the rest of his life, and Jeanne Toussaint, who was Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933.
Pierre Cartier established a New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to
Designed by Louis Cartier, the
Re-organization
After the death of Pierre in 1964, Jean-Jacques Cartier (Jacques's son), Claude Cartier (Louis's son), and Marion Cartier Claudel (Pierre's daughter)—who respectively headed the Cartier affiliates in London, New York, and Paris—sold the businesses.
In 1972, Robert Hocq, assisted by a group of investors led by Joseph Kanoui, bought Cartier Paris.[27] In 1974 and 1976, respectively, the group repurchased Cartier London and Cartier New York, thus reconnecting Cartier worldwide.[27] The new president of Cartier, Robert Hocq, coined the phrase "Les Must de Cartier" (a staff member is said to have said "Cartier, It's a must!" meaning something one simply must have) with Alain Dominique Perrin, who was a General Director of the company.[28][29] As a result, in 1976, "Les Must de Cartier" became a diffusion line of Cartier, with Alain D. Perrin being its CEO.[30][31][32]
In 1979, the Cartier interests were combined, with Cartier Monde uniting and controlling Cartier Paris, London, and New York. Joseph Kanoui became vice president of Cartier Monde. In December 1979, following the accidental death of president Robert Hocq, Nathalie Hocq (daughter of Hocq) became president.[27][32]
Recent development
In 1981, Alain Dominique Perrin was appointed Chairman of Cartier SAA and Cartier International.
Perrin founded an international committee in 1991, Comité International de la Haute Horlogerie, to organize its first salon, held on 15 April 1991; this has become an annual meeting place in Geneva for professionals in this field. The next year, the second exhibition of "L'Art de Cartier" was held at the
In 1994, the Cartier Foundation moved to the Rive Gauche and opened headquarters in a building designed for it by Jean Nouvel. The next year, a major exhibition of the Cartier Antique Collection was held in Asia. In 1996, the Lausanne Hermitage Foundation in Switzerland exhibited "Splendours of the Jewellery", presenting a hundred and fifty years of products by Cartier.[35]
In 2012, Cartier was owned, through Richemont, by the South African Rupert family, and Elle Pagels, a 24-year-old granddaughter of Pierre Cartier.[36][37]
Managing directors
- Laurent E. Feniou – (25 March 2013–present).[38]
- Rupert J. Brooks – (16 December 2015–present).[39]
- Francois M. J. R. Le Troquer – (1 September 2010 – 28 March 2013).[40]
- Bernard M. Fornas – (21 January 2003 – 16 December 2015).[41]
- Guy J. Leymarie – (2 September 2002 – 28 October 2002).[42]
- Grieg O. Catto – (2 April – present).[43]
- Denys E. Pasche – (2 April 2002 – 17 July 2002).[44]
- David W. Merriman – (2 April 2002 – 17 July 2002).[45]
- Richard P. Lepeu – (1 November 2000 – 1 April 2002).[46]
- Sophie Cagnard – (1 November 2000 – 1 April 2002).[47]
- Gerard S. Djaoui – (12 June 1997 – 1 April 2002).[48]
- Francois Meffre – (11 June 1993 – 28 September 2000).[49]
- Richard N. Thornby – (11 June 1993 – 7 October 1996).[50]
- Luigi Blank – (11 June 1993 – 1 April 2002).[51]
- Joseph W. Allgood – (22 June 1992 – 8 April 1993).[52]
- Arnaud M. Bamberger – (4 June 1992 – 16 December 2015).[53]
- Mario Soares – (22 June 1991 – 5 March 2002).[54]
- Joseph Kanoui – (22 June 1991 – 31 January 2000).[55]
- William A. Craddock – (22 June 1991 – 31 October 1997).[56]
- Christopher H. B. Honeyborne – (22 June 1991 – 31 October 1997).[57]
- Pierre Haquet – (22 June 1991 – 8 April 1993).[58]
- Phillipe Leopold-Metzger – (22 June 1991 – 4 June 1992).[59]
Jewelry and watch manufacturing
Notable products
- 1911 – Launch of Santos de Cartier wristwatch.[3]
- 1918 – Creation of batons for Field-Marshals Foch and Pétain.
- 1919 – Launch of the Tank watch.[3]
- 1921 – Creation of the Tank cintrée watch.
- 1922 – Creation of the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Chinoise watches.
- 1923 – Creation of the first portico mystery clock, crowned with a statuette called Billiken.
- 1926 – Creation of the Baguette watch. Cartier jewellery in its red box appeared on the Broadway stage in Anita Loos' play Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.[60]
- 1928 – Creation of the Tortue single push-piece chronograph watch.[3]
- 1929 – Creation of the Tank à guichets watch.
- 1931 – Creation of the mystery pocket watch.
- 1932 – Creation of the Tank basculante watch.
- 1933 – Cartier filed a patent for the "invisible mount", a stone-setting technique in which the metal of the mount disappears to show only the stones.
- 1936 – Creation of the Tank asymétrique watch.
- 1942 – Creation of the "Caged Bird" brooch as a symbol of the Occupation.[3]
- 1944 – Cartier created the "Freed Bird" to celebrate the Liberation of France.
- 1950 – Creation of a watch in the form of a ship's wheel.
- 1967 – Creation of new watches in London including the Crash.
- 1968 – Creation of the Maxi Oval watch.
- 1969 – Creation of the Love bracelet.[3]
- 1969 First inclusion of a Cartier Chronometer in a Luxury Car
- 1971 – Creation of the Juste un Clou bracelet at Cartier New York.
- 1973 – Creation of Les Must de Cartier by Robert Hocq with Alain-Dominique Perrin.[3]
- 1974 – Launch of the first leather collection in burgundy.
- 1976 – First collection of Les Must de Cartier vermeil watches. Creation of the first oval pen.
- 1978 – Creation of the Santos de Cartier watch with a gold and steel bracelet. Creation of the first Cartier scarf collection.[3]
- 1981 – Launch of the Must de Cartier and Santos de Cartier perfumes.
- 1982 – Launch of the first New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and stones.
- 1983 – Creation of the Collection Ancienne Cartier (later the Cartier Collection) to record and illustrate how the jeweller's art and its history have evolved. Creation of the Panthère de Cartier watch.
- 1984 – Launch of the second New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and pearls. Creation of the Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain in Jouy-en-Josas.
- 1985 – Launch of the Pasha de Cartier watch.[3]
- 1986 – Launch of the third New Jewellery collection on the theme of the panther.
- 1987 – Launch of the Panthère de Cartier perfume. Creation of Les Maisons de Cartier tableware (porcelain, crystal and silver).
- 1988 – Launch of the fourth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Egypt.
- 1989 – Launch of the Tank Américaine watch. The Art of Cartier, the first major retrospective in Paris, was held at the Petit Palais.
- 1995 – Creation of the Pasha C watch in steel. Launch of the So Pretty de Cartier perfume.
- 1996 – Creation of the Tank Française watch collection. Launch of the sixth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Creation. Creation of the Tank ring.[3]
- 1997 – Cartier celebrated its 150th anniversary with creations including a necklace in the form of a serpent, paved with diamonds and set with two pear-cut emeralds of 205 and 206 carats (41.2 g).[3]
- 1998 – Creation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris Fine Watch collection.
- 1999 – Creation of the Paris Nouvelle Vague Cartier jewellery collection, inspired by Paris.
- 2001 – Creation of the Délices de Cartier jewellery collection. Launch of the Roadster watch.[3]
- 2003 – Launch of the Le Baiser du Dragon and Les Délices de Goa jewellery collections.
- 2007 – Launch of Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.[3]
- 2016 – Launch of the Drive de Cartier watch.
Environmental rating
In December 2018,
Notable patrons and owners
From its inception,
Pierre Cartier sold the "Hope" blue diamond to an American customer,
who gave gifts from Cartier.Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria wore Cartier watches during his rule within the Medellín Cartel in Colombia.
In the 1988 film Wall Street, Michael Douglas, a symbol of the yuppie style, proudly wore a gold "Santos" watch.[71][72]
In cinema, the "Love" bracelet adorned Elizabeth Taylor's wrist in 1972 in Ash Wednesday, and Sharon Stone wore it in the 1998 film Sphere. On stage, it was the sole jewelry piece worn by Tina Turner during her 1983 comeback tour.[73][74][75][76]
Use of the Cartier name in other products
From 1976 to 2003, the company lent its name to special editions of several models of the luxury US automaker Lincoln, designing a Cartier edition of the 1976 Lincoln Continental Mark IV,[77] the 1977–79 Lincoln Continental Mark V,[78][79] the 1980–81 Lincoln Continental Mark VI, and the 1982–2003 Lincoln Town Car.[80]
Books
- Cartier Panthère. New York: ISBN 9781614284284.
- Nadelhoffer, Hans (2007). Cartier. Chronicle Books. ISBN 9780811860994.
- The Cartiers, Francesca Cartier Brickells
See also
- List of watch manufacturers
- Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain
- Cartier Women's Initiative Awards
- Cartier Racing Award
- Cartier Tank
- Cartier Love bracelet
References
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- ^ "Company Overview of CARTIER International SNC". Bloomberg. Retrieved 2019-02-02.
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- ^ "Compagnie Financière Richemont SA – Home". www.richemont.com. Retrieved 2019-01-20.
- ^ a b "Cartier Monde – Company Profile". www.referenceforbusiness.com. Retrieved 2019-02-02.
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A line-up of small rooms for special clients has original light oak wood paneling carved with garlands and hung with certificates from England's Edward VII (in 1905), through the king of Siam and Russian czars.
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Further reading
- Cox, Caroline (2014) [2013]. "1847: Cartier". Le luxe en héritage: Secrets d'ateliers des grandes maisons (in French). with preface by Cameron Silver. Paris: ISBN 978-2-10-070551-1.
- Liu, Ming (September 19, 2017). "At 100, the Cartier Tank Transcends Time". ISSN 0362-4331.
- Francesca Cartier Brickell (2019). The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire. Ballantine Books. ISBN 978-0525621614.