Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

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Chamba is a town in the

Though historical records date the history of the Chamba region to the Kolian tribes in the 2nd century BC, the area was formally ruled by the Maru dynasty, starting with the Raju Maru from around 500 AD, ruling from the ancient capital of Bharmour, which is located 65 kilometres (40 mi) from the town of Chamba.^[1] In 920, Raja Sahil Varman (or Raja Sahil Verman) shifted the capital of the kingdom to Chamba, following the specific request of his daughter Champavati ^[2] (Chamba was named after her). From the time of Raju Maru, 67 Rajas of this dynasty ruled over Chamba until it finally merged with the Indian Union in April 1948, although Chamba was under British suzerainty from 1846 to this time.^[1]

The town has numerous temples and palaces,^[2][3] and hosts two popular jatras (fairs), the "Suhi Mata Mela" and the "Minjar Mela", which last for several days of music and dancing. Chamba is also well noted for its arts and crafts, particularly its Pahari paintings, which originated in the Hill Kingdoms of North India between the 17th and 19th century, and its handicrafts and textiles.^[4][5][6]

History

Early history

Chamba has an ancient history, which is inseparable from that of the surrounding district of Chamba. The earliest rulers were Kolian tribes. In the 2nd century BC the

The recorded history of the Rajput rulers is traced to an eminent individual named Maru who is said to have moved to northwest India from Kalpagrama, around 500 AD.[8] He founded his capital in the Budhal river valley at a place called Brahmapura, which later became known as Bharmaur. Bharmaur is situated 75 kilometres (47 mi) to the east of the present day Chamba town. For three hundred years, kings of Rajput Dynasty ruled from their capital in Bharmour.^[8]

However, in 920, Raja Sahil Varman (or Raja Sahila Verman), King of Bharmour, shifted his capital from Bharmour to a more centrally located plateau in the lower Ravi valley, and named the city Champavati, after his daughter.

Since Raja Sahil Varman, the dynasty ruled without successful invasion for around a millennium, until the British gained power.

Modern history

In 1806, the combined forces of

In 1845, the Sikh army invaded the British territory.^[7] The result was disastrous, with the British defeating the army, leaving Chamba in a poor position. Wazir Bagha of Chamba was important in negotiations in its aftermath, and the Rajas of Chamba, on the advice of Bagha, agreed to the British suzerainty as part of Jammu and Kashmir in favour of an annuity of Rs 12,000.^[7] The Treaty of Lahore was signed in 1846, in which the Rajas agreed to cede the territory of Chamba district.^[14] From then on, relations with the British were cordial, and all of the Rajas of Chamba under British rule, Sri Singh, Gopal Singh, Sham Singh, Bhuri Singh, Ram Singh, and Laxman Singh, were on good terms with the British army officers.^[7]

Many progressive reforms and developments were made in Chamba under the British.^[7] In 1863, the first post office was established in Chamba as well as a daily mail service and a primary school.^[15] In December 1866, a hospital was opened by Doctor Elmslie of the Kashmir Medical Mission.^[15] In the late 1860s two new roads to Dalhousie via Kolri and Khajiar were built. Gopal Singh, who ruled from 1870 to 1873, after abdicating, was responsible for building the grand Jandarighat Palace as his summer residence.^[12][15]

After India became an independent nation in August 1947, the princely state of Chamba finally merged with India on 15 April 1948 along with the other princedoms of Mandi-Suket State, Sirmour State and all of those in the Shimla hills.^[7]

Geography and climate

Chamba is the headquarters of the Chamba district, bordered by

The town, the district and the valley where the town is located, share the name of Chamba. The town of Chamba is located at the junction of

The temperatures in summer vary between 38 °C (100 °F) and 15 °C (59 °F) and in winter: 15 °C (59 °F) and 0 °C (32 °F).[20] The maximum temperature recorded in summer is 39 °C (102 °F) and the minimum temperature in winter is −1 °C (30 °F).^[20] Climatically March to June is said to be the best period to visit Chamba, which is a well known hill station.^[20] The average annual rainfall in the town is 785.84 millimetres (30.939 in).^[23]

Demographics

As of 2001^[update] India census,

Away from the urban centre, the tribal people of Chamba (popularly known as Chambial) are divided into two major groups; the Gujjars and the Gaddis.^[27] The Gujjars, mainly nomads, came to Chamba across the state border from Kashmir along the trade routes. They belong to nomadic herdsmen of the Islamic community, and travel to lowland Punjab in the autumn with their livestock to avoid the harsh winter of the Chamba hills.^[27] Their features are Turkic and have a distinct language and culture aloof from the main town.^[27]

The Gaddis comprise several ethnic groups; namely the Brahmans, Rajputs, Thakurs, Rathis and the Khatris, who form the majority.^[27] They are agricultural peoples, and the name "Gaddi" means "shepherd".^[27] They mainly inhabit an area of the Chamba district in the Dhaula Dhar mountains, known as Brahmaur Wazarat or "Gadaran", located between Chamba and Kangra. "Gadar" means sheep, so their land is informally referred to as "Gadaran", literally meaning "sheep country".^[27] They are believed to have come to Chamba in the 10th century, although an influx of Gaddi people migrated to Chamba from Lahore in the 18th century, during the Mughal Empire.^[6] They are said to practice animism combined with the worship of Lord Shiva.^[6]

Administration

There have been a total of 67 rajas who have ruled Chamba district since the Principality of Bharmour was established in the 6th century, beginning with Raja Maru.

The city layout can be distinctly demarcated into two zones; namely the 'Old Town' before the British introduced their urban architectural styles and the British period of contemporary monuments, bridges and buildings. In a study of the architecture of Chamba, instituted by the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), with the objective of conserving and restoring individual heritage buildings, it has been observed that the urban architecture of Chamba evolved under three distinct phases. The first phase from 930, dating from the Rajput dynasty establishing the capital at Chamba until 1846, the second phase during the British period; and the third phase constituting the post independent period after its merger with the Indian Union in April 1948.^[3][29]

Monuments built prior to 1846

Buildings in Chamba were traditionally constructed using local materials. Buildings were made out of dry stone masonry, with the walls and floors of the older houses plastered with a concoction of clay and cow dung.^[30] Thick wooden beams were used to support the walls, paying attention to durability and to withstand earthquakes, and wooden cantilever construction was often used to support the verandas.^[30] The staircases and doors were made from wood, with the doors often decorated in religious reliefs and flanked by two lamps to light it at night. Before the arrival of the British, who introduced slate roofs to Chamba, roofs were covered with planks, coated in clay.^[30] Few of these houses remain today, although a number still have wood-clay roofs in villages in the suburbs.^[30]

The old heritage monuments, which are palaces and temples are located in the old town (east of the Chaugans), on the lower slopes of Shah Madar hill. They were built in the lower valley where the two rivers and steep thickly forested hillsides provided a strong defence. Located here is the 10th-century Champavati Temple, said to have marked the birth of the town, the Lakshmi Narayan group of temples (built from 10th-19th century), the 10th-century Sita Ram Temple, Bansi Gopal temple, Kharura Mohalla and Hari Rai temple, the 11th century Sui Mata Temple and Chamunda Devi Temple, and the Akhand Chandi palace, overlooking the Chaugan, which has since been converted into a college.^[31] Additions were made to the palace in the form of the Zenana Mahal and the Rang Mahal in the 18th century. The temples built in Chamba demonstrate a strong Kashmiri influence with their stone temple architecture and temple iconography.^[3][32][33] Given their age however, only their unicellular layout with fluted pillars has been retained.

Champavati Temple

This temple was built by Raja Sahil Varman in memory of his daughter Champavati. The temple, located near the Police Post and the Treasury building, is built in the Shikhara style, with intricate stone carvings. It has a wheel roof and is as large as the Laxmi Narayan Temple. An idol of the goddess

Laxmi Narayan temple in Chamba

The Lakshmi Narayan temples complex, devoted to the

There is a mandap in the foreground of the temple of 5.1 metres (17 ft) x 6 metres (20 ft) size with an agni-kund or fire pit in the centre and a gable roof covered with slates.[35] The mandapa has carvings in wood in its multi panelled ceiling with reliefs of human figures on the pillars and brackets. Votive bells are provided in the mandap entrance and it has a Nagari inscription, which records it as the offering from Pandit Vidhadhara to the goddess Chamunda deified in the temple on 2 April 1762, the date when the temple was consecrated.^[3]

Maa Chamunda
Champa Devi Temple near old market place, 1860
Religion
Affiliation	Hinduism
District	Kangra district
Deity	Chamunda Shakti Peeth
Location
Location	Chamunda, 176052
State	Himachal Pradesh
Country	India
Location in Himachal Pradesh
Geographic coordinates	32°08′54″N 76°25′07″E / 32.148244°N 76.418566°E / 32.148244; 76.418566
Architecture
Type	Hindu
Creator	Gaurav Gupta
Completed	1763
Specifications
Temple(s)	1
Elevation	1,059.499000 m (3,476 ft)

Akhand Chandi Palace

The Akhand Chandi Palace, noted for its distinct green roof, was built by Raja Umed Singh between 1747 and 1765 and used as his residence.^[37] Later, Raja Sham Singh refurbished it with the assistance of British engineers. In 1879, the Darbar Hall (also named 'Marshal Hall' after the builder) was built.^[3] Raja Bhuri Singh added the Zenana Mahal (residence of Royal ladies). The building was exemplary of the fusion of Mughal and British architectural influences. In 1973, the Royal family of Chamba sold the palace to the Government of Himachal Pradesh, who in turn converted it into a Government College and District Library.^[3] Maintenance of the attractive palace, however, which has painted walls and glass work and intricate woodwork, has not been satisfactory, due to the lack of funds allocated to refurbish it.^[37] The palace provides scenic views of the Chaugan, Laxmi Narayana Temple, Sui Mata, Chamunda Devi Temple, Rang Mehal, Hari Rai Temple and Bansi Gopal Temple.^[3]

Monuments built after 1847

In the second half of the nineteenth century, the British administration drew up an urban plan for the development of Chamba. They laid emphasis on the building of civic buildings around the Chaugan to conceal the unorthodox structural layout of the residential complexes. The western oriented development programme grew particularly active after the arrival of Major Blair Reid in January 1863, during the reign of Raja Shri Singh.^[38] The next fourteen years in particular, until his retirement in March 1877, were characterised by large-scale building projects in Chamba, with Reid fully revising the administrative and revenue departments of Chamba and reorganising the state machinery to make development more efficient.^[38]

Orderly new building complexes with "simple visual discipline with white plastered walls, lancer arch windows, cornices, sloping sheet roofs, wooden eaves and deep verandahs were planned and built". Road communications were dramatically improved, with the approach road to the town being diverted, to provide a way for vehicular traffic to enter from the western end of the chaugan. A cabled suspension bridge was built across the Ravi River in the lower outskirts of the town, and many important public welfare projects were started,^[38] and well as many temples, gates, gardens and churches between 1863 and 1910. Notable works built during the colonial period include the temples in the Jansali Bazar, Gandhi Gate (Curzon Gate), Shiva Temple, the Chaugans, the Police Lines, the Church of Scotland, the Shyam Singh Hospital (built in 1891), Chamba Library, the Post Office building, Bhuri Singh Museum, the State Forces barracks, and the administrative buildings of the British period.^[32] Today, architectural materials have evolved considerably since ancient times and reinforced concrete structures are rapidly changing the skyline of the town.^[30]

Chaugan

The Chaugan (a

The Bhuri Singh Museum at Chamba was established on 14 September 1908 in honour of the raja at the time, Raja Bhuri Singh, who ruled Chamba from 1904 to 1919.^[3] J. Ph. Vogel, an eminent indologist, and expert on the history of Chamba state, proposed the museum to preserve a number of valuable inscriptions, mostly in Sarda script, which contained some rare information about the medieval history of Chamba; the prashastis (inscriptions) of Sarahan, Devi-ri-kothi and mul Kihar (fountain inscription) are still preserved in the museum.^[3] Bhuri Singh donated his family collection of paintings to the museum, including royal portraits which ranged from Basohli to Guler-Kangra in style, and embroidered Pahari miniatures.^[3] Numerous artefacts, important to the heritage of Chamba were added, including coins, hill jewellery and royal and traditional costumes, arms and armour, musical instruments and other items.^[3] The current museum was built in 1975 in concrete.^[3]

Culture

Arts

Chamba miniature Pahari paintings

Varaha, the boar, avatar (incarnate) of god Vishnu	Pahari painting, 1800, of Shiva’s family on the march

Chamba miniature paintings

Chamba is noted for its miniature

Chamba is an important centre for the making of traditional handicrafts, and the town has numerous small workshops maintained by the artisans. Many of the items produced are exquisite and lavish, a testament to the towns' aristocratic heritage.[45]

Casting metalware in Chamba is an ancient tradition, dating back to the Bronze Age period, with items typically made out of copper or brass, and also iron, especially in the traditional making of implements and weapons by blacksmiths. Of particular note in this trade are the large plaques with reliefs, commonly used for wall decoration. The temple cupolas in Chamba district are often furnished with copper and brass items made in Chamba and often the golden kalasha or vessel crowning them is produced here.^[45]

Chamba has its own unique traditional system of men's and women's footwear. Traditional footwear was originally made from locally produced leather but is today transported to Chamba from the south of India.^[45] Women's footwear is embroidered as is "vegetarian" footwear which is purposefully made without leather for use in places where leather is prohibited for religious reasons. Handkerchiefs and shawls are also made in abundance in Chamba. Traditionally hand-spun, they are designed in such a way as to make both sides of the cloth look identical, and are beautifully embroidered.^[45] Chamba shawls are woven on hand looms in wool and typically have a bright border in a traditional design.^[45] A similar woven design is used for making caps.

Traditional jewelry is made in gold and silver in Chamba as its pottery, typically kitchenware, utensils and earthen pots.^[45] Given Chamba's history of new immigration from other parts of the country and Tibet, a variety of influences can be seen in the pieces of jewelry that are produced in Chamba.^[45] Chamba is also noted for its wood carvings, which, like the metal-ware is often used for iconography in temples, such as Chamunda Devi.^[46] A "Nagara", a form of kettle drum is produced in Chamba as are cymbals, bells and "Singa" or "Ransinga" (horns) produced in both straight and curved styles.^[45] Other instruments include Shankh, Nad, Beiunsuli, Saihna, Nag Pheni, Thali Ghada, Bhana, Karnal, Pohol, Dhons, Kahal, Kansi, Hasat Ghanta and Drugg.^[47]

Festivals, fairs and dances

Chamba is one of those places where Basohli effect actually reached. Two melas or fairs, also known as Jatras, are of particular note in Chamba; "Suhi Mata Mela" and "Minjar Mela". A notable event of such fairs is when the ‘chela’. a subordinate of the deity who is being worshipped goes into a trance and answers the queries and prayers of the devotees.^[48]

An important festival held in Chamba is known as the "Suhi Mata Mela". It is held annually in March–April for four days to commemorate the sacrifice made by the queen of Chamba with her life, to bring water to the town. The legend associated with this festival and the Sui Mata temple, built in memory of the queen (wife of Raja Sahil Varman), relates to the sacrifice she made to fulfill a prophecy in a dream, which said that water from the Sarota stream could only be accessed through an aqueduct if the queen or her son was sacrificed. Rather than kill her own son she sacrificed her own life for the town. To commemorate this event, women and children take a lead role in the festival. An image of Champavati, with banners of the Rajput solar emblem, are taken by them in a procession, dancing and singing, through the Chaugan to the Suhi Mata temple.^[3][20][48]

Another popular festival held in Chamba is the "

Chamba and the surrounding district have many local customs in dancing, illustrating the differences in geographical, anthropological and social cultures and religious beliefs in the area.[50] A solo dance or a dance of two people such as the Pharati or Khad-dumbi is commonly performed during the Nuwala ceremony and other important occasions, such as marriages etc. and the Dangri and Sikri are said to be of note.^[50][51] Notable male dances include the Gaddi and Gujjar dances, Dandaras, Nat, Ghorda, Nachan, Dharumsde, the Khad-dumbi and the Chhinjhati.^[52] Notable female dances include the Ghurei, Dangi and Kikli, whilst dances such as the Shain, Dhamal, Sohal, Sal Kukdi Nachan, Ratege and Til-Chauti are performed by both sexes.^[53] Several forms of masked dance are also performed in Chamba, such as the Chhatradhi Jatar.^[53]

Costumes

Ancient people of Chamba were known to have worn a fine woolen blanket or chadar around the waist, to keep warm in the cold climate. It was often tied or girdled with a band or patka, as evidenced by some archaeological discoveries in the area depicting this fashion.

"The Jakatas, the Milinda Panha and the Vinaya of the Mulasarvastivadins mention the beautifully embroidered Kotumbara clothes of the Audumbara country (Pathankot and Chamba) and the fine textiles captured in the lot of Kangra Fort in 1009 around the astonishment of the soldiers of Mahmud of Ghazni. A heavier, though not less luxurious type of embriodered dresses can be traced on the fountain stones, which had been erected by the local aristocracy of Churah, in western Chamba in the 11th to 12th centuries." - Hermann Goetz^[54]

Given the history of migrants arriving in Chamba from across Kashmir and Tibet over the centuries, today Chamba has a variety of traditional dresses, defined by the region to which they belong. The most traditional dress worn by

Love Songs These songs are of Shrinagar rasa. Mostly the feelings of separation, hard life of Gaddis, their social bindings and the tales of sacrifice, unsuccessful love etc. are depicted through these songs. Famous Love songs are, 'Kunju and Chanchlo', 'Phulmu and Ranjhu', 'Raja Gaddan' and 'Bhunku Gaddi' that are very popular among the city and the state.[56]

Wildlife Sanctuaries

• Gamgul Siyabehi Wildlife Sanctuary: Covering an area of 108.40 square  kilometers, Gamgul Siyabehi Wildlife Sanctuary, is located at a high altitude. It is situated in Chamba district.
• Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary
• Kugti Wildlife Sanctuary: It is the second largest^[57] sanctuary in the state of Himachal Pradesh. The famous Manimahesh Temple, annually visited by thousands of pilgrims, is also situate in Kugti Wildlife Sanctuary.
• Sechu Tuan Nala Wildlife Sanctuary:^[58] Sprawled in an area of 390.20 square kilometers, Sechu Tuan Nalla wildlife sanctuary, is situated in Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh. This sanctuary is around 113 kilometers from Chamba town.

•  Tundah Wild Life Sanctuary:^[59] Spread over an area of 64 square kilometers, Tundah Wildlife Sanctuary was established in Chamba district to protect wildlife and its environment.  It is 59 kilometers from the Chamba town.

Notes

References

• Archer, W. G (1973). Indian Paintings from the Punjab Hills: A Survey and History of Pahari Miniature Painting. Sotheby Parke Bernet.
  ISBN 0-85667-002-2
  .
• Bhatnagar, Manu (2008). "Chamba Urban evolution of an ancient town in the Himalaya" (PDF). Journal of the Development and Research Organization for Nature, Arts and Heritage. 5 (1). UNESCO: 39–44. Retrieved 26 October 2009. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |agency= ignored (help)
• Bharati, K.R (2001). Chamba Himalaya: amazing land, unique culture. Indus Publishing.
  ISBN 81-7387-125-6
  . Retrieved 26 October 2009.
• Bradnock, Robert & Roma (2000). Footprint Indian Himalaya Handbook:The Travel Guide. Footprint Travel Guides.
  ISBN 1-900949-79-2
  .
• Handa, O.C (2001). Temple architecture of the western Himalaya: wooden temples. Indus Publishing.
  ISBN 81-7387-115-9. Retrieved 28 October 2009. {{cite book}}: |work= ignored (help
  )
• Handa, O.C (2005). Gaddi land in Chamba: its history, art & culture : new light on the early ... Indus Publishing.
  ISBN 81-7387-174-4. {{cite book}}: |work= ignored (help
  )
• Scotland, Church of (1899). The Church of Scotland home and foreign mission record, Volume 24. Church of Scotland. {{cite book}}: |work= ignored (help)
• Sharma, K.P.; Sethi, S.M. (1997). Costumes and ornaments of Chamba. Indus Publishing.
  ISBN 81-7387-067-5
  .
• Sharma, K.P. (2004). Folk dances of Chambā. Indus Publishing.
  ISBN 81-7387-166-3
  .
• Negi, Baldev Singh (2012), Single Line Administration and Tribal Development in Himachal Pradesh, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-3461-3
  .
• Rana, Kulwant Singh, Negi, Baldev Singh (2012), Changing Cropping Pattern in the Tribal Areas of Himachal Pradesh: with special reference to Pangi Valley, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-7695-8
  .
• Negi, Baldev Singh (2012), Village Studies in Northern India: a case study of Devikothi, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-4743-9

Further reading

• Hutchinson, J. & J. PH Vogel (1933). History of the Panjab Hill States, Vol. I. 1st edition: Govt. Printing, Pujab, Lahore, 1933. Reprint 2000. Department of Language and Culture, Himachal Pradesh. Chapter IV Chamba State, pp. 268–339.
• Negi, Baldev Singh (2012), Single Line Administration and Tribal Development in Himachal Pradesh, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-3461-3
  .
• Rana, Kulwant Singh, Negi, Baldev Singh (2012), Changing Cropping Pattern in the Tribal Areas of Himachal Pradesh: with special reference to Pangi Valley, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-7695-8
  .
• Negi, Baldev Singh (2012, Village Studies in Northern India: a case study of Devikothi, Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany,
  ISBN 978-3-8473-4743-9
• Ulrich Friebel, Trekking in Himachal Pradesh, NaturFreunde-Verlag Stuttgart 2001,
  ISBN 3-925311-23-8

External links

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Chamba.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Chamba.

• Chamba district website