Wine in China
History
- "The Song of the Grape" (葡萄歌), by Liu Yuxi (772–842)
- 自言我晉人 We men of Tsin [Jin 晉 = Shanxi], such grapes so fair,
- 種此如種玉 Do cultivate as gems most rare;
- 釀之成美酒 Of these delicious wine we make,
- 令人飲不足 For which men ne'er their thirst can slake.
- 爲君持一斗 Take but a measure of this wine,
- 往取涼州牧 And Liang-chow's [= Liangzhou's] rule is surely thine.[2]
Use of wild grapes in production of alcoholic beverages has been attested at the Jiahu archaeological site (c. 7000 BC).[3][4][5] High quality wine called qióng jiāng yù yè (Chinese: 瓊漿玉液) is mentioned in the Complete Tang Poems (Quan Tangshi), an 18th-century collection of around 50,000 poems compiled during the reign of the Kangxi Emperor.[6] The phrase, which translates literally to "jade-like wine", but has an idiomatic meaning along the lines of "wonderful wine".[7]
In 1995, a joint Sino-USA archaeology team including archaeologists from the Archeology Research Institute of Shandong University and American archaeologists under the leadership of Professor Fang Hui investigated the two archaeological sites 20 km to the northeast of Rizhao, and discovered the remnants of a variety of alcoholic beverages including grape wine, rice wine, mead, and several mixed beverages of these wines. Out of more than two hundred ceramic pots discovered at the sites, seven were specifically used for grape wine. Remnants of grape seeds were also discovered.[8] If grape wine consumption was once present in Bronze Age China, however, it was replaced by consumption of a range of alcoholic beverages made from sorghum, millet, rice, and fruits such as lychee or Asian plum. In the 130s and 120s BC, a Chinese imperial envoy of the
Not until the
China's "first modern
Production
National trends
French wine was the first foreign wine imported into China. In 1980, at the beginning of Chinese economic reform, Rémy Martin ventured into China to set up the first joint-venture enterprise in Tianjin: the Dynasty (Wang Chao, 王朝) Wine Ltd., which was also the second joint-venture enterprise in China. Over the years, the company developed over 90 brands of alcoholic beverages, and its products won numerous awards both domestically and abroad.
However, most of its products were exported abroad in the first two decades due to the low income of the local population, and it was not until after the year 2000 when the economic boom finally provided the domestic population with sufficient
Also, as globalization has brought China onto the international economic scene, so too has its winemaking industry come onto the international wine scene. China has a long tradition of the fermentation and distillation of Chinese wine, including all alcoholic beverages and not necessarily grape wine, but is one of the most recent participants in the globalization of wine that started years ago in Paris, when several countries such as Canada realized that they may be able to produce wines as good as most French wine.
Quite recently, Chinese grape wine has begun appearing on shelves in California and in Western Canada. While some critics have treated these wines with the same type of disregard with which Chilean and Australian wines were once treated, others have recognized a new frontier with the potential to yield some interesting finds. Others have simply taken notice that China is producing drinkable table wines comparable to wines from other countries. Among the latest developments is the production of organic wine in Inner Mongolia.[16]
As of 2012, a small number of large companies, such as Changyu Pioneer Wine, China Great Wall Wine Co., Ltd. and the Dynasty Wine Ltd., dominate domestic production. The total production of wine in 2004 was 370 thousand tons, a 15% increase from the previous year.[15][17] The total market grew 58% between 1996 and 2001, and 68% between 2001 and 2006.[18][19]
In 2008, wine merchant
Wine-producing regions
Notable wine-producing regions include Beijing, Yantai, Zhangjiakou in Hebei, Yibin in Sichuan, Tonghua in Jilin, Taiyuan in Shanxi, and Ningxia. The largest producing region is Yantai-Penglai; with over 140 wineries, it produces 40% of China's wine.[22]
Xinjiang
China's
Ningxia
In September 2011,
Shanxi
In the "Bordeaux against Ningxia" wine challenge held in Beijing in October 2011, Grace Vineyard's 2009 Chairman's Reserve, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, was voted best.[34][31]
Consumption
Market trends
China is among the top ten wine markets in the world. According to a study by Vinexpo and International Wine and Spirits Research (IWSR), China was the world's fifth-largest consumer of wine (both domestic and imported) in 2011.[35] A study by the same organizations revealed in 2014 estimates that 2.17 billion bottles of wine were consumed in China in 2013, keeping China in fifth place. Because Chinese mostly drink red wine, China is now the world's largest market for red wine.[36] China's consumption of red wine has grown by 136% since 2008, whereas it has declined by 18% in France, the second-largest consumer.[37] The United States remains the largest market for all types of wine (red, white, rosé, and sparkling), with total sales of approximately 4 billion bottles, slightly ahead of France and followed by Italy and the United Kingdom.[36]
The Chinese wine market has experienced a 20% annualized growth rate between 2006 and 2011, and is forecast to grow by another 54% by 2015.[35]
In 2009, Sotheby's reported that Hong Kong had become the world's largest market for fine wines at auction, surpassing previous leaders New York City, and London.[38]
Products and availability
Most medium to large restaurants, regardless of the fare, sell wine by the bottle, usually only red. Generally, only high-end restaurants serve wine by the glass. Wine sold by the bottle is also available at large KTV establishments, and major hotels.
Since around 2008, many small convenience stores have begun to carry a small selection of wines, with specialty wine shops emerging in cities throughout the country. These specialize in both foreign and domestic brands. Meanwhile, major supermarkets have steadily increased their selection, from several domestic brands, to a wide variety of wines from around the world. In addition, plenty varieties of wines are also available through online shops and platforms. Among these are sweetened, flavoured wines. These are made of a mixture of grape wine and a sweetened, flavoured drink similar to
Demographics and preferences
A survey conducted with 1,440 respondents reveals that Chinese prefer red wine to white wine. 94% of the respondents consumed red wine, while only 35% of them drank white wine.[39] This trend is, however, contrasting when measured among younger generations. Chinese young people prefer white to red wine and they consider the latter traditional and outdated.[40]
Statistics show that the main market for white wine is among females, who prefer it over beer, still the main alcoholic beverage for most males; red wine has become a symbol of the elite and rich and is usually used as a table wine. In 2005, 80% of vineyards produce red wine and 20% of vineyards produce white wine, while 90% of wine consumed as of 2007 is red wine.[15][19]
Method of consumption
Both red and white wines are commonly served chilled. The wine may be poured into ordinary wine glasses in tiny amounts, or very small, glass baijiu glasses. When served at a table with more than two people, similar to the style of drinking baijiu, it is typically consumed during a group toast, and often with the entire glass being finished at once. This is particularly true when served during restaurant meals.
See also
- Baijiu
- Chinese alcoholic beverages
- Globalization of wine
- Huangjiu
- Kaoliang wine
- Maotai
- Zhuolu County
- Winemaking
References
Notes
- YanghaiTombs, Turpan District in Xinjiang, China. Anatomical features showed it to be of grape (Vitis vinifera L.). Radiocarbon dating indicates it to be nearly 2300 years old, which would suggest that there was grape cultivation at least from that time. To date, this is the earliest physical evidence of V. vinifera cultivation in China.(...) By the studying of the ancient grapevine, we have gained new insight into the viticulture in China. Based on the physical evidence, we have been able to confirm one of the conclusions drawn by Yang (2003), namely that the cultivated grape (V. vinifera) was introduced into Xinjiang around 300 BC. On the other hand, we would also argue that the earliest grape cultivation in China was not in the western and southern part of the Tarim Basin, but in the Turpan Basin, based on the evidence to date.
- ^ Sampson 1869, p. 52, cited in Shafer 1963, p. 145.
- ^ a b [1]. Prehistoric China - The Wonders That Were Jiahu The World’s Earliest Fermented Beverage. Professor Patrick McGovern the Scientific Director of the Biomolecular Archaeology Project for Cuisine, Fermented Beverages, and Health at the University of Pennsylvania Museum in Philadelphia. Retrieved on 3 January 2017.
- ^ ISBN 9789811025556.
- ^ ISBN 9781317548706.
- ^ "卷八百五十九:卷八百五十九". hinese Text Project. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
- ISBN 978-3319143316. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
- ^ History of Chinese wine (in Chinese) Archived July 11, 2011, at the Wayback Machine
- Shiji, chap. 123]); Black 2006, p. 167 ("it seems that grape seeds were brought back from Ferghana in modern Uzbekistan by General Chang Chien [Zhang Qian] during the Han dynasty between 136 and 121 BC and planted in Xinjiang and Shaanxi (Xian)").
- ^ a b Huang 2000, p. 240.
- ^ Huang 2000, pp. 240–1, citing Tao Hongjing's Mingyi Bielu 名醫別錄 for the claim that vines were successfully grown in several parts of Gansu, notably in Dunhuang.
- ^ Huang 2000, p. 241.
- ^ Huang 2000, pp. 241–2.
- ^ Godley 1986, p. 383.
- ^ a b c Wine production in China - wines-info Archived November 27, 2007, at the Wayback Machine
- ^ Hansen bioWine Group. "Hansen BioWine from Inner Mongolia". Retrieved 16 May 2014.
- ^ Chen Jun (September 2003). "Who Can Change Chinese People's Consumption Patterns?". Wine Business Monthly. Retrieved 15 May 2014. (subscription required)
- ^ Chinese Markets for Wines - wines-info Archived November 27, 2007, at the Wayback Machine
- ^ a b Chinese Wine Marketing Conference Highlights Advantages & Issues in China's Wine Industry - wines-info Archived November 27, 2007, at the Wayback Machine
- ^ Oliver Styles (9 May 2008). "China to become leading wine producer?". Decanter.com. Retrieved 15 May 2014.
- ^ James Meikle (9 May 2008). "Chateau China, a taste of wines to come with climate change". The Guardian. London. Retrieved 16 May 2014.
- ^ "The wine output of Yantai will reach 230000 kiloliters in 2008:wines-info". Archived from the original on February 15, 2009. Retrieved June 28, 2009.
- ISBN 9781452851433.
- ^ "Chinese wine wins top honour at Decanter World Wine Awards - Decanter". Decanter. 2011-09-08. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ "Decanter magazine and Jia Bei Lan 2009: Was it really Chinese wine?". Grape Wall of China. 2011-10-30. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ "Let's raise a glass to China's wine". Telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ esperegus (2011-05-23). "Chinese Wines Triumph in Decanter Awards". www.thebeijinger.com. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ "Wine advances on China | Articles | JancisRobinson.com". www.jancisrobinson.com. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ "Silver Heights Wine - The Rise Of Chinese Wines". On The Gas | The Art Science & Culture of Food. 2013-03-19. Retrieved 2017-08-30.
- ^ Laurie Burkitt (15 December 2011). "Ningxia Beats Bordeaux. Or Does It?". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 16 December 2011.
- ^ ISBN 9781633536074.
- ^ "Q&A: Emma Gao, winemaker-director, Silver Heights - Harpers Wine & Spirit Trade News". harpers.co.uk. Retrieved 2022-02-18.
- ^ "Top 10 most influential women in China's wine trade". The Drinks Business. 2019-03-08. Retrieved 2022-02-17.
- ^ "About Grace Vineyard". Grace Vineyard. Retrieved 30 December 2016.
- ^ a b Alan Lodge (11 January 2012). "US Tops Global Wine Consumption Chart". the drinks business. Retrieved 15 May 2014.
- ^ a b Jason Chow (29 January 2014). "China is now World's Biggest Consumer of Red Wine". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 16 May 2014.
- ^ Gabriel Savage (28 January 2014). "China Leaps Into Top Spot for Red Wine". the drinks business.
- ^ Malcolm Moore (6 October 2009). "Hong Kong becomes world's largest wine market". The Daily Telegraph. London. Retrieved 16 May 2014.
- ^ Poon, C H (26 November 2020). "China's Wine and Spirits Market (1): Wine Consumption Trends and Habits". HKTDC Research.
- ISBN 978-0-08-100754-9.
Works cited
- Black, Jeremy (2006), "China – Ancient China", in Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine (Third ed.), Oxford: Oxford University Press, pp. 167–68, ISBN 978-0-19-860990-2.
- Godley, Michael R. (1986), "Bacchus in the East: The Chinese Grape Wine Industry, 1892–1938", Business History Review, 60 (3): 383–409, (subscription required)
- Huang, H. T. (2000), Science & Civilisation in China, Volume VI: Biology and Biological Technology, Part 5: Fermentations and Food Science, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, ISBN 0-521-65270-7.
- Sampson, Theos. (1869), "The Song of the Grape", Notes and Queries on China and Japan, 3: 52.
- Shafer, Edward H. (1963), The Golden Peaches of Samarkand: A Study of T'ang Exotics, Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, ISBN 0-520-05462-8.
- ISBN 978-0-231-08167-2(paperback).
- Wang, Janet (2019-01-24). The Chinese Wine Renaissance (First ed.). Ebury. pp. 5–249. ISBN 9781529103601.
Further reading
- Insel, Barbara (January 2014). "The Evolving Global Wine Market". Business Economics. 49 (1): 46–58. S2CID 153516479.
- Taber, George M. (2011). A toast to bargain wines: How innovators, iconoclasts, and winemaking revolutionaries are changing the way the world drinks. New York: Scribner. ISBN 978-1-4391-9518-5(paperback).