Clwydian Range and Dee Valley

Panorama of the Clwydian Range from Moel Morfydd

Clwydian Range section

The Clwydian Range forms the northern and oldest designated part of the AONB, designated in 1985. The broad upland range of rounded, heather-clad open hills runs from

The easternmost parts of the Dee Valley are characterised by its pastoral and farming landscape, where the carboniferous millstone grits and the rolling hills of the carboniferous coal measures^[10] of Ruabon Mountain starts sloping downwards to give way to the Cheshire Plain, and the plains around the city of Wrexham with settlements such as Pen-y-cae and Garth.^[14]

The southern part of this area is the Vale of Llangollen, characterised by steep valley sides, meanders of the Dee, and fossil terraces. Near Pentrefelin, the River

The Llantysilio Mountains are bounded by the Bala Lineament to the north, and the Dee Valley fault line to the south.^[13]

Highest summits

The range of hills in the north-east of Wales is regarded to have three distinct areas of

30°S.^[13] These eventually became the slates present in the modern-day Horseshoe Pass and the Berwyn range, with a fold of these rocks visible at the A55 rock cutting near Rhuallt.^[10] There is minor mineralisation of the rocks near Rhuallt, where the Pennant Mine extracted minerals such as galena, zinc, baryte and barium ore, commonly associated with the mineralisation of lead and zinc.^[10] The mine was designated as a SSSI in 2010.^[16]

During the Permian and Triassic periods, Wales was about 20° north of the equator, the equivalent latitude of North Africa today, and at this latitude, the red desert sandstones of the Vale of Clwyd and the western side of the Clwydian Range were deposited, as the area underwent desertification.^[10]

The final episode of significant modification of the landscape took place in the

Along with the rest of

Excavations in the AONB have uncovered remains of animals such as the bear, lion, mammoth, spotted hyena, wolf, and woolly rhino. The presence of these remains reflects the great climatic oscillations that occurred during the last Ice Age in the area.^[4]

Between 2004 and 2010, the "Heather and Hillforts" lottery-funded project took place in the Clwydian Range AONB. The project involved a topographical survey of the Penycloddiau hillfort performed by the Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust (CPAT), and a geophysical survey conducted by Engineering Archaeology Services (EAS). The latter survey revealed roundhouses at the site and a potential enclosure.^[26]

In March 2014, remains of a firepit dating to the Bronze Age was discovered near Moel Arthur. Radiocarbon dating of the charcoal present in the firepit dates them to 4,000 to 4,500 years old and were used in the early Bronze Age. Burnt stones were also present in the firepit, and the overall purpose of the site still remaining unknown.^[27]

Between 2012 and culminating in an exhibition in 2018 at

The earliest evidence of human settlement in the modern-day AONB exists at Tremeirchion, in the Ffynnon Beuno Caves, where the discovery of stone tools dated to between 30 and 40,000 years ago, was made.^[13] Other caves along the Clwydian Range reveal various finds from various times, of animals once inhabiting the area, including the mammal bones of spotted hyenas, mammoths, and lynxes.^[4][10][17] The oldest human-made feature of the AONB is Gop Cairn, an artificial mound near Trelawnyd, which is the largest in Wales, and second largest in Great Britain after Silbury Hill in Wiltshire.^{[citation needed]}

Castell Dinas Brân was built in 1260 by Gruffydd ap Madog, Prince of Powys Fadog, and Chirk Castle was built in 1295, in honour of Roger Mortimer and his role in overcoming Llywelyn ap Gruffudd in 1282. Owain Glyndŵr, Prince of Wales, is from the area, namely near Glyndyfrydwy where his remains at his Motte can still be seen.^{[citation needed]}

During the late medieval period, the first open field systems of the area were lost to enclosed fields influenced by the newly present landed gentry, who contributed to the creation of historic designated parklands in the area, such as those at Penbedw.^[4]

During the Industrial Revolution, mining for lead and coal, and the production of iron was increasingly present in the areas east of the AONB near the city of Wrexham and the slopes towards it. Slopes overlooking the settlements of Brymbo, Coedpoeth, Minera, and Pen y Cae, became central to the developing mining and metal producing industry.^[4]

Construction of Pontcysyllte Aqueduct began in 1875, and was designed by Thomas Telford.^[17]

Conservation

In the "National Parks in England and Wales" 1945 report by John Dower, it was published that he had considered the Clwydian Range to be an area to consider when National Parks in England and Wales are selected.^[32] This report alongside the subsequent Hobhouse Report by Sir Arthur Hobhouse would contribute to the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949 which created the British National Park system.

A natural conservation area covering 310 km² (120 sq mi) of the Clwydian Range and extending southward to the Dee Valley was first proposed in the England and Wales Report of the National Parks Committee, commonly shortened to the Hobhouse Report. Published in July 1947 to the Ministry of Town and Country Planning. The area was proposed to become a Conservation Area, alongside 51 others, for its "outstanding landscape beauty" and home to "great scientific interest", which was deemed worthy of protection and management through statutory designation.^[33] This designation eventually became "Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty", however the eventual designation for the area was much smaller than originally proposed, only covering most of the Clwydian Range.^[34]

AONB designation

The Clwydian Range was designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1985 by the Secretary of State for Wales Nicholas Edwards MP, under the National Parks and Access to Countryside Act 1949, covering 158 km² (61 sq mi) until its extension.^[35][36] Its southern boundary was set to be much more northern than originally proposed in 1947. Reasons for this decision remain unclear, although it has been said that it was chosen to mark the border between the Clwydian Range and the highlands sometimes regarded to be part of the Berwyn Range.^[33] This was due to local opposition to designations for the Berwyn Range, such as the then proposed Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), proposed during the AONBs consultation period. This potentially influenced the decision to exclude the Berwyn Range, and therefore the Dee Valley, from becoming part of the AONB in 1985.^[33]

In 2005, a Pathfinder partnership was set up by the three local authorities of Denbighshire, Flintshire, and Wrexham, with the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) to consider whether an AONB extension into the Dee Valley would be beneficial.^[33]

Dee Valley expansion

The Countryside Council for Wales expressed its proposal to extend the Clwydian Range AONB^[37] to incorporate sections of the Dee Valley to recognise the area's "outstanding natural beauty". Under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000, which superseded the National Parks and Access to Countryside Act 1949, the CCW was awarded the powers to designate any area in Wales that is not already a national park, to become an AONB.^[38]

The CCW's plan would add rural Denbighshire communities, in the southern parts of the Clwydian Range and the Vale of Llangollen, and Wrexham communities of Esclusham and Ruabon. The CCW hosted a four-month consultation in October 2010, and following its end on 31 January 2011, it received 314 responses mainly over concerns of new regulations imposed on landowners. The CCW replied in its proposal document that "AONB designation does not interfere with land management practices and designation does not bring about new restrictions on agricultural activities". The proposal was supported by Wrexham County Borough Council, as it would extend the AONB by 10 miles west-to-east bringing it into the boundaries of Wrexham County Borough. The council stated that the extension would bring huge benefits to the area, protecting the local landscape, improve the securing of money for environmental projects, and encouraging tourism to the area, in addition to complementing the then-recent designation of Pontcysyllte Aqueduct as a World Heritage Site in 2009.^[39]

The CCW met in early February 2011 and agreed to move to the next phase of the process of expanding the AONB to the Dee Valley, which is to produce a draft designation order, formally outlining the CCW's proposals. For five weeks afterwards, the draft order would be open to external views, until it is sent to the Welsh Assembly Government. It would then be the responsibility of the

Welsh Assembly Government Minister for the Environment Jane Davidson to make the final decision on the proposal as early as March 2011.^[40] At the meeting, the CCW also considered a further proposal of extending the AONB even further to residents of the Ceiriog Valley and Berwyn. The CCW stated that the proposed extended area is of "outstanding quality, nationally and internationally important for their natural beauty and equally worthy of protection as an AONB". The plan met opposition from local farmers who opposed the added restrictions the status would bring, whereas local tourist attractions welcomed the proposal, hoping it would promote and encourage tourism, in addition to making new developments in the area take into account its effects on, and be sympathetic to, the local countryside.^[37][41]

On 22 November 2011,

The campaign to make the then Clwydian Range AONB, a national park began in 2010, on the 25th anniversary of AONB status.

In their manifesto for the 2021 Senedd election, Welsh Labour and First Minister of Wales Mark Drakeford,^[50] pledged for the establishment of a new national park in Wales. If followed through, the newly designated (yet to be named) North East Wales National Park would become Wales' fourth national park and the newest one since 1957.^[51][52][53] Upon their re-election, the new administration stated that they are in the process of fulfilling this pledge, although no dates were given, however, they stated that announcements would be made in "due course", and that the redesignation is a "multi-year" project.^[54][55]

In June 2023, the Welsh Government commissioned Natural Resources Wales to investigate a potential designation of the area into a national park, involving data and evidence gathering and meeting with local communities, with a decision expected by 2026.^[56] While the proposed national park is centred on the AONB, the boundaries of the national park may not be the same as the current AONB, with the exact boundaries being under discussion.^[57]

Management

The AONB is managed by a Joint Committee.

The AONB designation shares the same status in terms of planning with national parks, however, unlike national parks, AONBs do not have their own planning authorities. Instead, the powers are exercised by the relevant unitary authorities on behalf of the AONB. These powers would likely be transferred to a newly designated national park planning authority if the proposals to redesignate the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB into a national park are followed through.^[38]

Other designations

There are 22 Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) in the AONB, accounting for 9,097.34 ha (90.9734 km²) or 23.36% of the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB's area.^[36][20] There are 3 Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) accounting for 8,028.37 ha (80.2837 km²) or 20.62% of the AONB's area.^[36][20] One Special Protection Area covering the Berwyn range is partly within the AONB boundaries, covering 2,555 ha (25.55 km²) or 6.56% of the AONB.^[20] 162 Wildlife Sites are in the AONB, covering a combined 3,451.92 ha (34.5192 km²) or 8.87% of the area, one local nature reserve (LNR) covering 21.33 ha (213,300 m²) at Moel Findeg, and 73 regionally important geological sites (RIGS) covering 676.45 ha (6.7645 km²), 1.74% of the AONB.^[20]

Twelve of the SSSIs involve geological features, with the four limestone

Many of the rivers in the AONB have some sort of designation, the River Dee is designated as a SAC and

There are ten Iron Age hillforts, three motte and bailey castles (Tomen y Rhodwydd, Tomen y Faerdre, and Glyndŵr's Mount), castle ruins at Dyserth Castle, and two 13th Century stone castles at Chirk and Dinas Brân, in the AONB.^[20]

Demographics

The AONB is sparsely populated and rural, with the estimated population of the AONB in 2011 being 18,690, 8,000 of which is classed as being resident in the Dee Valley.^[36][20] On average, the AONB's population is regarded to be collectively older and more economically active or self-employed, than national or regional averages.^[36]

There are 31 settlements in the AONB, 23 being in Denbighshire, 6 in Flintshire, and 2 in the Wrexham County Borough parts of the AONB.^[20] A large proportion of its residents are confined to the two towns in the AONB, Llangollen and Corwen, and small hamlets or farmsteads. The two towns have a long history of tourism and many of the smaller communities have a deep agricultural tradition or some links with industry such as quarrying.^[36] Most of the local authorities' population is concentrated in the towns and cities just outside of the AONB, in particular, the towns of Rhyl and Prestatyn to the north, the conurbation of Deeside and the town of Mold to the north-east, and the city of Wrexham to the east. The AONB is largely upland, quiet and undeveloped, and contains several former quarries.^[36]

Located in north-east Wales, near the border with England, and acting as the border in medieval times, the area's culture is influenced by

The AONB extends over part of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS), designated on 27 June 2009, before the AONB's extension to the area. The WHS includes sites within the AONB such as Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Horseshoe Falls, and parts of the Llangollen Canal. Chirk Aqueduct, which is part of the WHS, is not part of the AONB.^{[citation needed]}

The AONB contains 641 listed buildings, 94 scheduled monuments,^[36] 17 conservation areas,^[20] and 12 historic parks and gardens (parks covering 611.67 ha (6.1167 km²) or 1.57% of the AONB).^[15][20] Many of these sites are overseen by Cadw. 9 additional Historic Parks and Gardens are located just outside the AONB's boundaries.^[20]

Transport and communications

The AONB is transversed by arterial A-roads, with the A55, North Wales Expressway passing through the AONB and cutting into the Clwydian Range, with a rock cut-through at Rhuallt Hill. The

A 2014 "State of the AONB" report estimated the total number of visitors to the AONB was 717,000, with revenue totalling £39.4 million.^[36][15] The report further stated that 6% of the population of the area is employed in the tourism sector, estimating a total of 715 people in the sector, compared to 4.9% in the agricultural and forestry sector. Total expenditure was estimated to be £131.81 million in rural Denbighshire, accounting for 42% of Denbighshire's entire expenditure of £314.20 million, with the remaining 58% being for coastal areas. Tourism expenditure in Flintshire and Wrexham is lower than Denbighshire in 2012, estimated to be £200.89 million and £92.67 million respectively, according to the Scarborough Tourism Economic Activity Monitor 2012.^[36] The overwhelming majority of visitors to rural Denbighshire are day visitors, accounting for 84% of the 2.4 million visitors. This is a slightly higher percentage of day visitors than coastal Denbighshire at 78%. The remaining 16% of overnight visitors are slightly more likely to accommodate in non-serviced accommodation over serviced accommodation, with the proportion of both accommodations being more balanced than in coastal Denbighshire, where non-serviced accommodation is used 270% more than serviced.^[36]

In 2012, the most visited site was Loggerheads Country Park with 164,536 visitors, followed by Moel Famau Country Park (140,000 visitors), Chirk Castle (133,268 visitors), and Llangollen Wharf (128,791 visitors).^[36] Sites numbering between 50 and 100,000 visitors are; Tŷ Mawr Country Park (73,592 visitors in 2011) and Llangollen Railway (70,000 visitors).^[36] The remaining sites recorded with less than 10,000 visitors include: Glassbobbery (13,815 visitors), Valle Crucis Abbey (8,632 visitors), Plas Newydd (9,319 in 2010), Llangollen Motor Museum (4,448 visitors), Rug Chapel (3,318 visitors), and Minera Country Park and Iron Works (2,220 visitors in 2010).^[36]

In 2018, an estimated 1.1 million people visited six key sites across the AONB, generating approximately £24.1 million to the

Mountain biking is popular for tourists and locals to the AONB. Coed Llandegla is regarded to be a national hub for mountain biking, with up to 150,000 visitors every year on its 44 km (27 mi) of bike paths. The NCN5, part of the National Cycle Network, just passes outside the AONB in Prestatyn on the north Wales coast.^[36]

The International Music Eisteddfod is held in Llangollen annually, occurring over 6 days in mid-July, the event attracts more than 50,000 people. Other cultural events in the AONB include three walking festivals, two food festivals, and other local outdoor events.^[36]

Hiking

The AONB is covered in an extensive network of

Offa's Dyke National Trail passes through the AONB. From south to north, the northernmost section of the path spans 73 km (45 mi) in the AONB.^[36] It enters the AONB at Chirk Castle and Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, it continues past Trevor Hall, before becoming the Panorama Walk as it passes the Trevor and Eglwyseg rocks, with Castell Dinas Brân overlooking the path from a nearby hill. It then passes World's End and Craig y Forwyn, before cutting through Maesyrchen Mountain before reaching Llandegla Forest and Llandegla. The path then transverses across the Clwydian Range passing sites such as Moel Famau, before reaching Bodfari, where it crosses the River Wheeler. It continues along the range, crossing the A55 at Rhuallt, passing Cwm and Dyserth, before reaching Prestatyn and the Irish Sea.^[65] The path attracts 33,000 people annually, and its most popular section of the path is between the ridgeline of the Clwydian Range and the Jubilee Tower on Moel Famau.^[36]

Other named and waymarked footpaths passing through the AONB include the Dee Valley Way (between Corwen and Llangollen), the North Wales Pilgrims Way (passing at Tremeirchion), and the North Berwyn Way. Footpaths from outside the AONB connect with the towns of Corwen (where it meets the Brenig Way) and Prestatyn (which is on the Wales Coast Path).^{[citation needed]}

Most paths in the AONB are described to be in good condition, with the AONB stating they aim to improve the conditions of paths that are in deteriorating condition.^[62]

There is an extensive

References

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Clwydian Range and Dee Valley.

• Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB website
• Friends of the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley website