Coastline of Wales

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Three Cliffs Bay, on the Gower Peninsula, Swansea, in South Wales.
Natural Resources Wales sub-aqua video survey; 2020

The coastline of Wales extends from the

English border at Chepstow westwards to Pembrokeshire then north to Anglesey and back eastwards to the English border once again near Flint. Its character is determined by multiple factors, including the local geology and geological processes active during and subsequent to the last ice age, its relative exposure to or shelter from waves, tidal variation and the history of human settlement and development which varies considerably from one place to another. The majority of the coast east of Cardiff in the south, and of Llandudno in the north, is flat whilst that to the west is more typically backed by cliffs. The cliffs are a mix of sandstones, shales and limestones, the erosion of which provides material for beach deposits. Of the twenty-two principal areas which deliver local government in Wales, sixteen have a coastline, though that of Powys consists only of a short section of tidal river some distance from the open sea. Its length (including Anglesey) has been estimated at 1,680 miles (2,700 km).[1][a]

Geological history

Parts of the Welsh coast are formed by

Llŷn and Pembrokeshire and parts of Anglesey. These oldest rocks are generally igneous or metamorphic in nature and typically hard-wearing. Much of the cliffed coast of Cardigan Bay is in turbidites and allied rocks of Ordovician and Silurian age. Devonian age Old Red Sandstone provides the coastal scenery around much of Milford Haven whilst low cliffs of Carboniferous Limestone forms the coast in parts of Anglesey. At some other localities along the north coast such as the Ormes at Llandudno, cliffs in the same rock are considerably higher. The same limestone characterises much of the southern coast of Pembrokeshire where the flat-lying strata produces sheer cliffs though in Gower, the same limestone strata were more intensely faulted and folded during the Variscan orogeny, and the cliffs are accordingly more variable. Limited outcrops of Triassic sandstones and mudstones occur on the south coast. They are typically overlain by flat-lying Jurassic limestone which forms much of the coast of the Vale of Glamorgan; these well-jointed vertical cliffs are more prone to collapse and hence coastal retreat is relatively rapid.[2]

In common with other parts of Britain and Ireland, Wales has experienced significant changes in sea level in the last few tens of thousands of years, largely attributable to the waxing and waning of ice sheets during successive glacial periods, the last of which ended only 11,500 years ago. At the height of the last ice age, the volumes of water locked away as ice resulted in a drop in global sea level which has been estimated at between 105 metres and 123m (345' and 404') and a corresponding change in the position of the coast. During this period of lowered sea level, the lower sections of many rivers were rejuvenated and they cut down into their beds as evidenced by the buried channels of the Usk at Newport and the Wye at Chepstow which are more than 20 metres and 17 metres (65' and 55') below sea level respectively.[3] The Flandrian transgression associated with the melting of the ice-sheets has brought the sea level to that recorded over human history, with the larger part of that rise achieved prior to 6000 years ago. Within Cardigan Bay, three 'sarnau' or causeways - Sarn Badrig, Sarn Gynfelyn and Sarn y Bwch - extend out from the coast for several miles, parts being exposed at low spring tide. These are interpreted as medial moraines left by ice moving west off the Cambrian Mountains during the last ice age. The position and character of the modern coastline owes much to the manner in which sea level has adjusted since.[4]

Peat deposits and tree stumps are exposed in the intertidal zone in many places along the Welsh coast. They date from a time of lower sea level around 8000 years ago. The traditional Welsh legend of the drowned land of Cantre'r Gwaelod has been linked to these localities.[5] A stormier climate between about 1300 and 1700 led to large quantities of sand being blown onshore and increasing the size of the various dune systems.[6]

Tidal range

Cardigan Bay experiences the lowest tidal range along the Welsh coast (less than 3 metres; 10') whilst the Bristol Channel coast experiences the highest (up to 14m).[7] Indeed, the tidal range within the funnel-shaped estuary is the third or fourth highest in the world.[8] A result is that the intertidal zone is larger than might otherwise be the case.[9]

Shore platforms

'

Shore platforms' are developed along rocky coasts and are commonly referred to as 'wave-cut platforms' though that name ignores the contribution that other processes may contribute to their development. They are well-developed along parts of the Welsh coast - for example, south of Aberystwyth and along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast.[10]

Physical features

The Welsh coast is diverse with both sandy and rocky bays frequently interspersed with estuaries and headlands.

Estuaries

There are a large number of

Severn in the southeast. The Milford Haven Waterway which penetrates deep into Pembrokeshire is notable as an outstanding example of a ria, a river valley which has been drowned by a rise in sea level. The estuaries of the Towy, Loughor and Usk also owe their origin to rising sea levels in the post-glacial period. The Severn, Dee and Clwyd estuaries experience tidal bores
under certain conditions. Estuaries typically provide ecologically rich habitats but they have also been attractive for human settlement and port development.

Peninsulas and headlands

The county of Pembrokeshire forms the largest peninsula in Wales and contains within it, several smaller peninsulas such as the Dale peninsula and St David's peninsula; the headland of

Lavernock Point, south of Cardiff, and Worm's Head which is the westernmost point of Gower. The northeasternmost point of Wales is provided by Point of Ayr
.

Bays

Cardigan Bay is much the largest bay on the Welsh coast but dozens of others are found at a variety of scales.

Dune systems

Major dune systems occur at intervals around most of the Welsh coast. The majority are "bay dunes" as commonly found around the Pembrokeshire coast. Some, known as "hindshore dune systems", occur where the prevailing wind has driven sand inland as at

Kenfig Burrows and Merthyr-mawr Warren to the north and east of Porthcawl
respectively.

Salt marshes

Salt marshes are found in many areas. Amongst the most significant are those on the southern side of the Loughor estuary on Gower's north coast. Significant areas of salt marsh are also found within the Dee estuary and between Harlech and Porthmadog though, here as elsewhere, reclamation of large parts of the marsh have taken place in the past for use as farmland.

Islands

Anglesey is easily the largest Welsh island, separated from the mainland in the northwest of the country by the Menai Strait (Welsh: afon Menai). Smaller islands off Anglesey include Wales' second largest,

spring tides
.

Off the coast of Llŷn are Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli),

Mumbles Head. In the southeast, Sully Island is linked to the Glamorgan coast at low tide whilst Flat Holm is 3 miles off the coast at the east end of the Bristol Channel and is the southernmost part of Wales. Wales' most isolated island, and its westernmost island, is Grassholm, 6¾ miles (11 km) west of Skomer though the wave-washed rocks supporting the Smalls Lighthouse at more than twice that distance from Skomer are the westernmost part of Wales.[12]

Settlements

Much of the population of Wales live in coastal communities; its three largest cities, Cardiff, Swansea and Newport are on the coast.

Ports

The two largest passenger ports are Holyhead and Fishguard which are the eastern termini of the two

passenger ferry routes across the Irish Sea from Dublin and Rosslare in Ireland. Milford Haven, often said to be one of the finest deep water harbours in the world, is one of the UK's major oil terminals
.

Resorts

A number of seaside resorts developed during the Victorian era including Rhyl, Prestatyn, Colwyn Bay, Llandudno, Tenby, Porthcawl and Mumbles. At least eleven pleasure piers were constructed at Welsh seaside resorts between 1840 and 1900. Only those at Aberystwyth, Bangor, Beaumaris, Colwyn Bay, Llandudno, Mumbles and Penarth remain standing today. Those at Rhyl, Tenby and Rhos-on-Sea were lost in 1973, 1953 and 1954 respectively. A former pier at Aberavon is now a breakwater.[13]

Communications

Historically, many Welsh coastal communities relied upon transport by sea but railways arrived in the middle of the nineteenth century and the road network was steadily improved.

Sea transport