Court shoe
A court shoe (
The construction of pumps is simple, using a whole-cut leather top with a low vamp, lined with either quilted silk or plain leather, trimmed with braid at the opening. The full leather sole is either glued onto the bottom, common on cheaper styles, or sewn, as on more costly bespoke styles still made traditionally, using a shallow slit to lift a flap of leather around the edge to recess and hide the stitching. The sole is, as on ordinary shoes, several layers of leather put together. The bow is made of grosgrain, or any ribbed silk, in a pinched or flat form.
For women, pumps with a strap across the instep are called Mary Janes. Pumps may have an ankle strap.
Menswear
In the
Even though it now survives in much the same form as it was at the start of the 19th century
Womenswear
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Pumps for women are usually heeled. The shape has varied through time. In the UK, a closed toe and wide (non-stiletto) heel have been worn by the very fashion-conscious, but most still wore stilettos of mainly 'kitten' height to medium height.
In the UK, outside the fashion trade, the term "pumps" would normally imply flat or low-heel dancing or
Pumps can be made from any material, but traditional patent leather is popular. Pumps are mostly worn with a suit or a uniform, but are also worn with formal and informal dresses, skirts, trousers, and jeans.
Pumps are also part of the costume of a ballroom dancer. They are made of satin, usually tan, though other colors are made as well, and worn on both the competition and practice floors.
Recent studies highlight the relationship between foot health issues and the choice of footwear. One such study found that the footwear choices of young women in 2012 were activity-specific and participants chose the style and design of shoes related to the image they wanted to portray. Despite the connection between some types of footwear with foot pain or foot health issues, young women apparently were not influenced by such concerns in making footwear choices.[5]
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A pair of 20th-century court shoes for women.
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20th-century court shoes for women.
Footnotes
Notes
- ^ "...so I resolved to go as before, when the tide was down, and I did so, only that I stripped before I went from my hut, having nothing on but a checkered shirt and a pair of linen drawers and a pair of pumps on my feet". p. 57
- ^ Registry of Deeds, Dublin. Memorial: 208-177-137906. Registered 23/01/1761. A Memorial of an Indenture of Lease dated the twelfth day of August one thousand seven hundred and sixty made by the Revd. William Pountney of Nangor in the County of Dublin, Clerk to Edward McGowan of Christ Church Yard in said County, Shoemaker, whereby said William demised to said Edward all that Lott or piece of Ground situate in Christ Church Yard, Dublin whereon one house is built which was lately in the Tenure of Mr. Waters bounding on the East to Ground belonging to the Chantor of Christ Church… [..] Paying the rent of eight pounds with a pair of womans pumps every twenty fifth day of March over and above taxes to commence from the...
General bibliography
- Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style. HarperCollins. ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2.
- ISBN 0-394-54623-7. Retrieved 2008-09-20.
- ISBN 0-06-019144-9.