Deception Island
Geography | |
---|---|
Location | Antarctica |
Coordinates | 62°57′30″S 60°38′30″W / 62.95833°S 60.64167°W |
Area | 79 km2 (31 sq mi) |
Length | 12 km (7.5 mi) |
Width | 12 km (7.5 mi) |
Highest elevation | 542 m (1778 ft) |
Highest point | Mount Pond |
Administration | |
Administered under the Antarctic Treaty System | |
Demographics | |
Population | 0 |
Surgidero Iquique Lighthouse | |
Construction | concrete (foundation), fiberglass (tower) |
Height | 4.5 m (15 ft) |
Shape | cylinder |
Markings | stripe (white, orange, horizontal direction) |
Power source | solar power |
Focal height | 114 m (374 ft) |
Range | 5 nmi (9.3 km; 5.8 mi) |
Characteristic | Fl W 5s |
Deception Island is in the
Geography
Located within the
Raven's Rock, a navigation hazard, lies 2.5 m (8.2 ft) below the water in the middle of the channel. Just inside Neptune's Bellows lies the cove Whalers Bay, which is bordered by a large black sand beach. Several maars line the inside rim of the caldera, with some containing crater lakes (including one named Crater Lake). Others form bays within the harbour, such as the 1 km (0.6 mi) wide Whalers Bay. Other features of the island include Mount Kirkwood, Fumarole Bay, Sewing-Machine Needles, Telefon Bay, and Telefon Ridge.
The linear Costa Recta spanning most of the east coast is hypothesised to be a scarp of a retreated submarine fault.[4]
A 2016 study on Ardley Island, 120 km (75 mi) to the northeast, examined lake guano sediments and studied penguin population dynamics over 7,000 years. Three of five population growth phases were terminated by a sudden crash, due to volcanic eruptions from the active volcano of Deception Island.[5][6] The history of volcanic eruptions is still under investigation, but several larger eruptions happened in the last 10,000 years.[7]
Geology
Deception Island is the exposed portion of an active
History
The first authenticated sighting of Deception Island was by the British sealers William Smith and Edward Bransfield from the brig Williams in January 1820. It was first visited and explored by the American sealer Nathaniel Palmer on the sloop Hero the following summer, on 15 November 1820. He remained for two days, exploring the central bay.[11] Palmer named it "Deception Island" on account of its outward deceptive appearance as a normal island, when the narrow entrance of Neptune's Bellows revealed it rather to be a ring around a flooded caldera.[12][13]
Palmer was part of an American sealing fleet from Stonington, Connecticut, under the command of Benjamin Pendleton, consisting of 6 ships. Port Fisher was used as their operational base from 1820 to 1821. Palmer met Bellingshausen close to the island in Jan. 1821, during the First Russian Antarctic Expedition.[3]
A lighthouse named Surgidero Iquique was built on the island to guide vessels into Deception Station.[14][15]
Whaling and sealing
Over the next few years, Deception became a focal point of the short-lived fur-sealing industry in the South Shetlands. The industry began with a handful of ships in the 1819–1820 summer season, rising to nearly a hundred in 1821–1822. While the island did not have a large seal population, it was a perfect natural harbour, mostly free from ice and winds, and a convenient rendezvous point. Some men likely lived ashore in tents or shacks for short periods during the summer, though no archaeological or documentary evidence survives to confirm this. Massive overhunting meant that the fur seals neared extinction in the South Shetlands within a few years, and the sealing industry collapsed as quickly as it had begun. Deception was abandoned again in approximately 1825.[11]
Sealing captain Robert Fildes charted Port Foster in 1820–1821, which in 1829 became the first published Antarctica nautical chart.[3]
In 1829, the British Naval Expedition to the South Atlantic under the command of Captain Henry Foster in HMS Chanticleer stopped at Deception. The expedition conducted a topographic survey and scientific experiments, particularly pendulum and magnetic observations.[16] A watercolour made by Lieutenant Kendall of the Chanticleer during the visit may be the first image made of the island.[11] A subsequent visit by the American elephant-sealer Ohio in 1842 reported the first recorded volcanic activity, with the southern shore "in flames".[11]
The second phase of human activity at Deception began in the early 20th century. In 1904, an active whaling industry was established at South Georgia, taking advantage of new technology and an almost untouched population of whales to make rapid profits. It spread south into the South Shetland Islands, where the lack of shore-based infrastructure meant that the whales had to be towed to moored factory ships for processing; these needed a sheltered anchorage and a plentiful supply of fresh water, both of which could be found at Deception. In 1906, the Norwegian-Chilean whaling company Sociedad Ballenera de Magallanes started using Whalers Bay as a base for a single ship, the Gobernador Bories.[11]
Other whalers followed, with several hundred men resident at Deception during the Antarctic summers and as many as 13 ships operating in peak years. In 1908, the British government formally declared the island to be part of the Falkland Islands Dependencies, thus under British control, establishing postal services and appointing a magistrate and customs officer for the island. The magistrate was to ensure that whaling companies were paying appropriate licence fees to the Falklands government and ensuring adherence to catch quotas. A cemetery was built in 1908, a radio station in 1912, a hand-operated railway also in 1912,[17] and a small permanent magistrate's house in 1914.[11] The cemetery, by far the largest in Antarctica, held graves for 35 men along with a memorial to 10 more presumed drowned.[18]
These were not the only constructions; as the factory ships of the period were only able to strip the blubber from whales and could not use the carcasses, a permanent on-shore station was established by the Norwegian company Hvalfangerselskabet Hektor A/S in 1912 – up to an estimated 40% of the available oil was being wasted by the ship-based system. This was the only successful shore-based industry ever to operate in Antarctica, reaping high profits in its first years.[11] A number of exploring expeditions visited Deception during these years, including the Wilkins-Hearst expedition of 1928, when a Lockheed Vega was flown from a beach airstrip on the first successful flights in Antarctica.[11]
The development of pelagic whaling in the 1920s, where factory ships fitted with a slipway could tow aboard entire whales for processing, meant that whaling companies were no longer tied to sheltered anchorages. A boom in pelagic Antarctic whaling followed, with companies now free to ignore quotas and escape the costs of licences. This rapidly led to overproduction of oil and a collapse in the market, and the less profitable and more heavily regulated shore-based companies had trouble competing. In early 1931, the Hektor factory finally ceased operation, ending commercial whaling at the island entirely.[11]
Scientific research
On 16 November 1928, Hubert Wilkins made the first Antarctic flight from a Whalers Bay ash runway.[3]
Deception remained uninhabited for a decade, but was revisited in 1941 by the British auxiliary warship HMS Queen of Bermuda, which destroyed the oil tanks and some remaining supplies to ensure it could not be used as a German supply base.[11] In 1942, an Argentine party aboard the Primero de Mayo visited and left signs and painted flags declaring the site Argentine territory; the following year, a British party with HMS Carnarvon Castle returned to remove the signs.[19]
In 1944, a British expedition under Lieutenant
In 1961, Argentina's president Arturo Frondizi visited the island to show his country's interest. Regular visits were made by other countries operating in the Antarctic, including the 1964 visit of the US Coast Guard icebreaker Eastwind, which ran aground inside the harbour.[23]
However, the volcano returned to activity in 1967 and 1969, destroying the existing scientific stations. Both British and Chilean stations were demolished, and the island was again abandoned for several years. The final major volcanic eruption was reported by the Russian Bellingshausen station on King George Island and the Chilean station Arturo Prat on Greenwich Island; both stations experienced major falls of ash on 13 August 1970.[24](p 294)
In 2000, there were two summer-only scientific stations, the Spanish
Remains of previous structures at Whalers Bay include rusting boilers and tanks, an aircraft hangar, and the British scientific station house (Biscoe House), with the middle torn out by the 1969 mudflows. A bright orange derelict airplane fuselage, which is that of a de Havilland Canada DHC-3 Otter that belonged to the Royal Air Force, was recovered in 2004. Plans to restore the airplane and return it to the island have been made.[26]
The Russian cruise ship MV Lyubov Orlova ran aground at Deception Island on 27 November 2006.[27] She was towed off by the Spanish Navy icebreaker Las Palmas and made her own way to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego. She later became a ghost ship in the North Atlantic after the towing line parted during an operation to scrap the vessel in the Dominican Republic.
Tourism
The first commercial cruise ship arrived in January 1966. By 1999, over 10,000 tourists had visited the island.[3]: 5
Research stations
Aguirre Cerda
President Pedro Aguirre Cerda Station was a Chilean Antarctic base, located at Pendulum Cove on Deception Island in the South Shetland Islands, inaugurated in 1955. It was evacuated in December 1967 when volcanic eruptions forced the evacuation of the base.
Deception
Deception Station is an Argentine base located at Deception Island. The station was founded on 25 January 1948 and was a year-round station until December 1967, when volcanic eruptions forced the evacuation of the base. Since then, it has been inhabited only during the summer.
Gabriel de Castilla
Gabriel de Castilla Base is a Spanish research station located on Deception Island. The station was constructed in 1990.[28]
Gutiérrez Vargas Refuge
The Gutiérrez Vargas Refuge, named after an aviation captain who died on 30 December 1955, was located at 1 km (0.62 mi) from Aguirre Cerda Station and was inaugurated on 12 February 1956. Its purpose was to serve as a refuge for the members of the station in case of fire. On 4 December 1967 the refuge was definitively abandoned, as was the Aguirre Cerda Station, due to a violent volcanic eruption. The remains of the refuge structure can still be seen on the beach where it was located.[citation needed]
Station B
Station B | |
---|---|
Coordinates: 62°58′38″S 60°33′50″W / 62.9772°S 60.5638°W | |
Established | 1944 |
Abandoned | 23 February 1969 |
Government | |
• Type | Administration |
• Body | FIDASE, United Kingdom |
Active times | All year-round |
In early 1944, a party of men from Operation Tabarin, a British expedition, established a permanent scientific base named Station B.[29] This was occupied until 5 December 1967, when an eruption forced a temporary withdrawal. It was used again between 4 December 1968 and 23 February 1969, when further volcanic activity caused it to be abandoned.[24](p 291–292)
Environment
Deception Island has become a popular tourist stop in Antarctica because of its several colonies of chinstrap penguins, as well as the possibility of making a warm bath by digging into the sands of the beach. Mount Flora on the Antarctic Peninsula, about 175 km from the island, is the site in Antarctica where fossilized plants were first discovered.[30]
After the Norwegian Coastal Cruise Liner
Deception Island exhibits some wildly varying microclimates. Near volcanic areas, the air can be as hot as 40 °C (104 °F), and water temperature can reach 70 °C (158 °F).[citation needed]
Antarctic specially protected areas
Eleven terrestrial sites have been collectively designated as an Antarctic specially protected area (ASPA 140), primarily for their botanic and ecological values, because the island has the greatest number of rare plant species of any place in the Antarctic. This is largely due to frequent volcanic activity creating new substrates for plant colonisation:[31]
- Collins Point (site A) contains good examples of long-established vegetation, with high species diversity and several rarities.
- Crater Lake (site B) has a scoria-covered lava tongue with a diverse cryptogamic flora, and exceptional development of turf-forming mosses.
- An unnamed hill at the southern end of Fumarole Bay (site C) has several rare species of mosses that have colonised the heated soil crust close to a line of volcanic vents.
- Fumarole Bay (site D) is geologically complex with the most diverse flora on the island.
- West liverworts, and lichens.
- Telefon Bay (site F) has all its surfaces dating from 1967, thus allowing accurate monitoring of colonisation by plants and animals.
- Pendulum Cove (site G) is another known-age site being colonised by mosses and lichens.
- Mount Pond (site H) contains exceptional moss, liverwort, and lichen communities.
- Perchue Cone (site J) is an ash and cinder cone with rare mosses.
- Ronald Hill to Kroner Lake (site K) is another known-age site being colonised by numerous cryptogam species, and with a unique algal community on the lake shore.
- South East Point (site L) supports the most extensive population of Antarctic pearlwort known in the Antarctic region.
In addition, two marine sites in Port Foster have collectively been designated ASPA 145, to protect their benthic communities.[32]
Important bird area
Baily Head, a prominent headland forming the easternmost extremity of the island, has been identified as an important bird area (IBA) by BirdLife International because it supports a very large breeding colony of chinstrap penguins (100,000 pairs). The 78 ha (190-acre) IBA comprises the ice-free headland and about 800 metres (0.50 mi) of beach on either side of it. Other birds known to nest at the site include brown skuas, Cape petrels, and snowy sheathbills.[33]
See also
References
- ^ Djajkovski, Petar (30 March 2017). "Deception Island: The "safest" harbor in Antarctica until it was abandoned in the 1960s". Abandoned Spaces.
- PMID 30674998.
- ^ ISSN 0951-8886.
- S2CID 54090378.
- ^ Amos, Jonathan (11 April 2017). "Poo sediments record Antarctic 'penguin Pompeii'". BBC News Online.
- PMID 28398353.
- PMID 30467408.
- ISSN 0951-8886.
- ISSN 0951-8886.
- ISBN 9780521372664.
- ^ S2CID 140710046.
- ISBN 978-1-57607-422-0.
- ^ "SCAR Composite Gazetteer". www.data.aad.gov.au. Retrieved 28 August 2017.
- ^ "The West Coasts of North and South America (excluding continental U.S.A. and Hawaii), Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, and the Islands of the North and South Pacific Oceans". List of Lights (Report). U.S. National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency. 2017. Pub. 111.
- ^ Rowlett, Russ. "Lighthouses of Antarctica". The Lighthouse Directory. University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Retrieved 25 May 2017.
- ^ Fogg, Gordon Elliott (1992). A History of Antarctic Science. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. pp. 72–74.
- ^ Williams, Glynn. "Railways in Antarctica". Retrieved 4 September 2014.
- ^ Measures adopted. The Antarctic Treaty 28th Consultative Meeting 6–17 June 2005. Stockholm, SE: United Kingdom Foreign and Commonwealth Affairs Office. July 2007. pp. 293–299. Command Paper 7166. Retrieved 18 July 2013.
- ^ HMS Carnarvon Castle (photograph). Cambridge University. 1943.
- ^ "Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge » Picture Library catalogue". www.spri.cam.ac.uk. Retrieved 25 March 2018.
- ^ "About – British Antarctic Survey". www.antarctica.ac.uk. Retrieved 25 March 2018.
- ^ "Operation Tabarin overview". British Antarctic Survey – Polar Science for Planet Earth. British Antarctic Survey. 2015. Retrieved 31 May 2019.
- ^ From the log book of Christopher Malinger, seaman on the USCGC Eastwind
- ^ ISBN 978-0-904614-06-0.
- ^ "Gabriel de Castilla". New Zealand: Shades Stamp Shop. Retrieved 24 May 2009.
- ^ a b "4 April – Otter Recovery". British Antarctic Survey. Archived from the original on 9 February 2008. Retrieved 24 May 2009.
- ^ "Cruise ship MS Lyubov Orlova runs aground needing rescue in Antarctica". CruiseBruise. Archived from the original on 7 March 2007. Retrieved 7 May 2011.
- ^ "BAE Gabriel de Castilla" (in Spanish). Spanish National Research Council. Archived from the original on 31 March 2010.
- ^ "Station B". British Antarctic Survey.
- ^ "Jurassic Liverworts from Mount Flora, Hope Bay, Antarctica" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 August 2017. Retrieved 26 October 2011.
- ^ "Parts of Deception Island, South Shetland Islands" (PDF). Management Plan for Antarctic Specially Protected Area No. 140 (Report). Antarctic Treaty Secretariat. 2005. Measure 3, Appendix 1. Retrieved 28 September 2013.
- ^ "Port Foster, Deception Island, South Shetland Islands" (PDF). Management Plan for Antarctic Specially Protected Area No. 145 (Report). Antarctic Treaty Secretariat. 2005. Measure 3, Appendix 2. Retrieved 29 September 2013.
- ^ "Baily Head, Deception Island". BirdLife Data Zone: Important bird areas (Report). BirdLife International. 2012. Retrieved 9 December 2012.
Further reading
- "Official website". Deception Island. Retrieved 3 May 2007.
- "Volcanic activity". Deception Island. Retrieved 4 June 2007.
- "Deception Island". Eco-Photo Explorers. Archived from the original on 1 July 2007. Retrieved 3 May 2007.
- LeMasurier, W.E.; Thomson, J.W.; et al. (1990). Volcanoes of the Antarctic Plate and Southern Oceans. ISBN 978-0-87590-172-5.
- Serrano, E. (2001). "Espacios protegidos y política territorial en las islas Shetland del Sur (Antártida)". Boletín de la A.G.E. (in Spanish). 31: 5–21 – via researchgate.net.
External links
- Images from Deception Island. pgoimages.com (photographs). Archived from the original on 25 October 2013.
- "Página web de la base Gabriel de Castilla" [Web page of Gabriel de Castilla base]. ejercito.mde.es (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 13 October 2006.
- "Steamed ice and frosted lava". monolith.com.au. – Account of a tourist visit to Deception Island
- "British Deception Island station". Archived from the original on 12 March 2005.
- Photos of Deception island. imagea.org (photographs).
- "A visit to Deception Island, and other places on the Antarctic Peninsula". geocities.com. 2002–2003. Archived from the original on 25 October 2009.
- "Eruptive dynamics and implications for volcanic hazards". The 1970 eruption on Deception Island (Antarctica) – via researchgate.net.
- "Deception Island". Global Volcanism Program. Smithsonian Institution.