Black tie

Part of a series on
Western dress codes and corresponding attires
Formal (full dress)   White tie  Morning dress  Full dress uniform Frock coat  Evening gown  Ball gown
Semi-formal (half dress)   Black tie  Black lounge suit   Mess dress uniform Evening gown  Cocktail dress
Informal (undress, "dress clothes") Suit  Service dress uniform Cocktail dress  Pantsuit
Casual (anything not above) Business casual Casual Friday Combat uniform Smart casual Workwear Streetwear Sportswear known as Sportswear (fashion) and Athleisure Undress
Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress law courts royal courts diplomatic academic, etc. Religious clothing cassock, habit, etc. Folk costume Distinctions Orders medals, etc.
Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.)     = Bow tie colour = Ladies = Gentlemen   Contents/Culture and the arts portal
v t e

Black tie is a

Dinner jacket in the context of menswear first appeared in the United Kingdom around 1887[3] and in the United States around 1889.^[4] In the 1960s it became associated in the United States with white or coloured jackets specifically.^[5] In modern British English, dinner jacket may be abbreviated to simply a "DJ".^[6]

Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the United States around 1888.^[7] It was named after Tuxedo Park, a Hudson Valley enclave for New York's social elite where it was often seen in its early years. The term was capitalized until the 1930s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket.^[8] When the jacket was later paired with its own unique trousers and accessories in the 1900s the term began to be associated with the entire suit. Sometimes it is shortened to "tux".^[9]

In French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Polish, Russian, Spanish, Persian, Turkish, and other European languages the style is referred to with the

The suit with accompanying accessories is sometimes nicknamed a monkey suit and, since 1918, soup and fish – a term derived from the sort of food thought to be served at black tie dinners.[12]^[13][14]

History

British origins in the 19th century

In the 1860s, the increasing popularity of outdoor activities among the middle and upper classes of the UK led to a corresponding increase in the popularity of the then

Other accounts of the Prince's experimentation appear around 1885, referring variously to "a garment of many colours, such as was worn by our ancestors" and "short garments coming down to the waist and made on the model of the military men's jackets". The suit jacket with tailcoat finishes, as is most commonly known, was first described around the same time and often associated with Cowes, a seaside resort in southern England and centre of British yachting that was closely associated with the Prince. It was originally intended for warm weather use but soon spread to informal or stag winter occasions. As it was simply an evening tailcoat substitute, it was worn with all the same accoutrements as the tailcoat, including the trousers.^[16] As such, in these early days, black tie, in contrast to formal white tie, was considered informal wear.^[17]

In the following decades of the Victorian era, the style became known as a dinner jacket: a fashionable, formal alternative for the tailcoat which men of the upper classes wore every evening. Thus it was worn with the standard accompaniments for the evening tailcoat at the time: matching trousers, white or black waistcoat, white bow tie, white detachable wing-collar formal shirt, and black formal shoes. Lapels were often faced or edged in silk or satin in varying widths. In comparison with a full dress such as a cutaway tailcoat, etiquette guides declared dinner jacket inappropriate for wear in mixed company, meaning together with ladies.^[18]

During the Edwardian era, the practice of wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the convention, establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes. The dinner jacket was also increasingly accepted at less formal evening occasions such as warm-weather gatherings or intimate dinners with friends.^[19]

After

In the decades following the World War II, black tie became special occasion attire rather than standard evening wear. In the 1950s, some experimented with coloured and patterned jackets, cummerbunds and bow ties. The 1960s and 1970s saw the colour palette move from muted to bright day-glow and pastel, as well as ruffled-placket shirts as lapels got wider and piping was revived.^[23][24][25] The 1980s and 1990s saw a return to traditional styles, with black jackets and trousers again becoming nearly universal. Some insist the 21st century has seen increased variation and a relaxation of previous strict standards; midnight blue once again became popular and lapel facings were sometimes reduced to wide edging.^[26]

Introduction to the United States

The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and fall of 1886 and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style.^[27] The most famous reference originates from Tuxedo Park, an upstate New York countryside enclave for Manhattan's wealthiest citizens. A son of one of the community's founders, Griswold Lorillard, and his friends were widely reported in society columns for showing up at the club's first Autumn Ball in October 1886 wearing "a tailless dress coat".^[28] Although it is not known whether this garment was a mess jacket or a conventional dinner jacket, it has no doubt cemented the tailcoat substitute's association with Tuxedo Park in the mind of the public.

An essay in the Tuxedo Park archives

The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons, and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century, the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material. Edwardian dandies often opted for Oxford grey or a very dark blue for their evening wear.^[32]

By World War I, the grey option had fallen out of favor but the "midnight blue" alternative became increasingly popular and rivalled black by the mid-1930s. Notch lapels, imported from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the 1920s.^[33] A single stripe of braid covering the outseam on each leg was an occasional variation at first but became standard by the 1930s. At this time double-breasted jackets and white jackets became popular for wear in hot weather.^[34]

Colour, texture and pattern became increasingly popular in warm-weather jackets in the 1950s.^[35] In the 1960s, these variations became increasingly common regardless of season or climate. Notch lapels were once again a fad.^[33] By the 1970s, mass-market retailers began offering white and coloured versions of the entire suit to its rental customers.^[36][37] The 1980s vogue for nostalgic and retro styles returned evening wear to its black tone.^[38] Notch lapels returned for good in the 1980s, and in the 1990s tuxedo jackets increasingly took on other traits of the business suit, such as two- and three-button styling, flap pockets, and centre vents. These trends have continued into the early 21st century, and midnight blue is now once again a popular alternative.^[39]

Composition

The dinner suit's accompaniments have also evolved over time. The most traditional interpretations of these elements – dress shirt, low cut waistcoat (in the "V" or "U" shape), black bow tie, oxford dress shoes – are incorporated in the black tie dress code.

Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black tie ensembles can display more variation. More extensively, the traditional components for men are:

• A dinner jacket, also called a tuxedo jacket in the United States, is primarily made of black or midnight blue wool. Dinner jackets in an off-white color are also considered appropriate for some occasions, but it traditionally associated with warmer climates and differs from other dinner jackets in that it is self-faced and can be made of fabrics including linen and cotton.^[40] Silk jacket lapels and facings, usually grosgrain or satin, are a defining element of the jacket and can be seen on every type of lapel. The dinner jacket may have a peaked lapel, a shawl lapel, or a notched lapel, with some fashion stylists and writers seeing shawl lapels as less formal and notched lapels as the least formal,^[41] despite the fact that they, like peaked and shawl, were used (though somewhat rarely) in some of the early forms of the garment.^[42]
• Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams, uncuffed and worn with braces
• A black low-cut waistcoat or a cummerbund
• A white
  semi-formal, the attached wing collar has been popular with American men since the 1980s. However, many style authorities argue that the attached version now typically offered is insubstantial with minuscule wings and inappropriately paired with soft pleated fronts.^[43]
• A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings
• Shirt studs and cufflinks. Some classic etiquette authorities limit studs to stiff-front marcella shirts only and prescribe pearl buttons for soft-front models instead.
• Black dress
  socks, usually of silk or fine wool. Some style guides recommend that the socks should come up to the knee.^[44]
• Black shoes – traditionally
  dress shoes instead, without brogueing

The double-besomed jetted or slit hip pocket is the only style understated enough to complement the dinner jacket.^{[citation needed]} Flap pockets are not considered appropriate for formal attire's refined minimalism due to their busier and bulkier design, and some believe that they are simply an attempt by dinner jacket manufacturers to save money by using standard suit patterns, although sometimes they will trim the edges of a flap pocket so that the flap can be tucked in or removed if desired.^{[according to whom?]} Besom welts can be of self fabric or trimmed with the lapel's silk facing, though classic menswear scholar Nicholas Antongiavanni suggests that for the English this latter touch "is a sure sign of hired clothes".^[46] The dinner jacket also has a welt breast pocket to hold a pocket handkerchief, which is generally self-faced rather than covered with silk.

Emily Post, a resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl-shaped, in either case they are to have facings of silk, satin or grosgrain". She later republished this statement in her 1922 book Etiquette, adding that only single-breasted jackets are appropriately called tuxedos.^[47] There is a fashion movement suggesting that a man's appearance when wearing the wider and higher peak lapel is superior to the narrower notch lapel.^[48]

White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are

It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the

Traditionally, the only neckwear appropriate is the black bow tie that is a self-tie and always matches the lapel facing of the dinner jacket and braiding of the trouser seams. The bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot, which is also called the bow knot for that reason.

Trousers

Black tie trousers traditionally have no turn-ups, also called cuffs in American English, or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single braid of silk or a material that matches or complements the lapel facing. Traditionally, braces, called suspenders in US English, hidden by the waistcoat, are used to support the trousers. Belts are never worn with black tie trousers. Evening trousers may be flat-fronted or pleated, with pleats first coming into fashion in the 1930s. Whilst flat-fronted trousers have become more fashionable, pleated trousers may be considered more comfortable by men who have wider hips and a narrow waist.

Waist coverings

A waist covering is generally worn as part of a black tie ensemble. Either a low cut waistcoat or cummerbund may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the English authority Debrett's consider that wearing a waistcoat is smart, they no longer consider either waist covering to be essential.^[50] The American authority, The Emily Post Institute, considers them to be an essential component of proper black tie attire.^[47] Waist coverings are not matched to wedding theme colours.^[51]

Waistcoat

A low cut waistcoat should be worn when wearing a single-breasted coat.^[52] The waistcoat plays an important part in black tie's refined minimalism by helping to conceal its working parts by discreetly covering the trousers' exposed waistband and the shirt bosom's bottom edge. Waistcoats come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double- or single-breasted, with or without lapels. Single-breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double-breasted ones three or four rows. Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such as stiff fronted shirts. However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation,^{[by whom?][citation needed]} is still acceptable in the United States. The waistcoat may be made from either the same fabric as the dinner jacket, as is traditional, or the same silk as the jacket's lapels, which is more popular. When a waistcoat has lapels, they are faced in the same silk as those of the jacket; in this case it is considered more refined if the body is made from the same fabric as the jacket. The buttons may be self-faced or covered in the same silk as the lapels. Vintage waistcoats were sometimes closed with studs made from onyx or mother-of-pearl, which were often surrounded by a setting of silver or gold.

A waistcoat is never worn with a double-breasted jacket. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered,^[53] though before World War II an edge of the waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt.

Cummerbund

A cummerbund may be worn with a dinner jacket in lieu of a waistcoat and, although it is considered slightly less formal, it is equally correct. It looks especially well with a shawl collar dinner jacket but may be worn in conjunction with peak lapels. The material of the cummerbund should be silk satin, grosgrain, also called faille, or barathea to match that of the bow tie. It features upward-facing folds, which were originally used to store theatre or opera tickets, and are now considered to be more decorative than functional. Just like the waistcoat, cummerbunds are not worn with a double-breasted jacket.^[54]

As the cummerbund is seen as an extension of the trousers, traditionally it is the same colour, i.e. black.^[55] However, the Black Tie Guide endorses deep and rich colours as a tasteful way to introduce some colour into an outfit that is otherwise monochromatic.^[56] Bright colours, such as those often worn by members of wedding parties, should be avoided^[51] and the bow tie must remain black in any case. Some higher quality models feature a hidden pocket and an elastic loop to fasten to the trousers.

Shirt

Although some style authorities consider the wing collar to be an acceptable option for black tie shirts, they are not worn with double cuffs or a pleated bib,^[58] and are better suited to the more formal single-breasted peak lapel jacket.^[43] They may feature a bib that is either marcella or starched and include stiff single cuffs secured with cufflinks, made of the same fabric as the bib; this type of shirt is exactly the same as one worn with white tie attire.^[59] The collar in this case is tall and stiff, which may be attached or detachable. When a full dress shirt is worn in this fashion, it is accompanied by the white marcella waistcoat ordinarily associated with white tie.^[56] Wearing white tie accessories in this manner is considered by many to be an affectation.^{[by whom?]} Debrett's do not endorse the wing collar as being compatible with the black tie dress code.^{[2][dead link]}

The more formal marcella version of the shirt fastens with matching shirt studs. These are most commonly in silver or gold settings, featuring onyx or mother-of-pearl; various geometrical shapes are worn, e.g., circles, which are most common for studs, octagons, or rectangles, which are most common for cufflinks. There has been no consistent fashion preference for gold or silver, but studs with mother-of-pearl are more formal and therefore often associated with white tie. The soft-front pleated version of the shirt should be fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons, typically supplied with the shirt on a separate strip of fabric. Alternatively, a fly-front shirt, appropriate with both the marcella and pleated bibs, conceals the placket for a more minimalistic look.

There are several types of cufflinks that may be worn with black tie. The most formal and decorative are the double-panel type, which dress both sides of the cuff and are connected by a chain or link of metal; this model conceals the mechanism by which the cuff is secured. The most common, and least decorative, are the swivel bar type; whilst these are acceptable, they leave the inner side of the cuffs and mechanism exposed which is incongruous with formal dress.^[60]

Footwear

The most formal and traditional shoes are patent leather opera pumps, also called

Most etiquette and fashion guides of the current decade^[when?] recommend keeping colour touches and favouring a single colour, usually dark; muted reds, such as maroon, are a traditional choice.

Outerwear: Black tie events do not involve outerwear and coats and gloves are no longer considered part of the dress code. However, etiquette for what to wear in public in transit to and from black tie occasions was stiffer in earlier eras and remain an option: Matching overcoats are usually black,

Inverness coat

was also worn. Until the mid-20th century, gloves and scarves were always worn, and are still occasionally seen in grey leather and white silk, respectively. White kid gloves have never been standard with black tie, remaining exclusive to white tie dress.

Hat: The 20th-century standard hat for black tie was a black or midnight blue

boater in spring and summer.^[68] Fedoras were originally regarded as too informal but have become more common. Top hats were originally worn with black tie, but had been reserved to white tie and morning dress from World War I. In the 1960s, it became optional to wear a hat with black tie, while from the 1970s onwards hats became less common.^[69]

Decorations and orders: Military, civil, and organizational

orders and awards are typically worn on the left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organizational regulations. Unlike in white tie, where decorations are always permitted, the dress code will usually give some indication when decorations are to be worn with black tie.^[71]

Timepiece: Traditionally visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not supposed to be considered a priority. Pocket watches are acceptable.^[60]

Women

Women's dress for black tie occasions has varied greatly throughout the years; traditionally it was:

• A dinner length gown at the ankle or tea length gown below mid-calf, which is a sleeveless evening gown, often accompanied by:
  • A
    stole
    and
  • Gloves
• Evening shoes

Other fashionable evening attire may be worn. Unlike the men's standard, the specifics of black tie for women are linked to whatever evening wear is currently in fashion.^[72] Today ladies' dress for black tie occasions covers a much wider level of formality ranging from just below the white tie standard^[73] to something more informal such as a little black dress. Specifically it can also include:

• Evening shoes and
• A
  ballgown, evening gown or cocktail dress. Cocktail dresses may be long or moderately short and need not be black.^[2]
• In England, evening trousers with a palazzo cut are another acceptable option.^[2]

Still, while "black tie" dress code traditionally implies evening dress for women, in 1966 famous couturier

androgynous models with slicked-back hair in a mannish three-piece suit, a style that was first popularized in photographs by Helmut Newton.^[74][75] This suit has continued to influence fashion designers' collections through the 2000s.^[76][77]

Social occasions

Riksdag's Black Tie Gala Performance on the eve of their wedding

In traditional Western dress codes etiquette black tie is intended for adult men's evening wear. Traditionally, in the 20th century black tie, in contrast to formal white tie, was considered informal.^[17] In the 21st century black tie is often referred to as being semi-formal.^[22]

Black tie is worn to private and public dinners,

stroller

, which is less formal than morning dress because, as with black tie, it replaces the tailcoat with a lounge coat. Contrary to the trend seen in evening dress, the less formal stroller is now extraordinarily rare, whereas morning dress is still relatively common.

The most popular uses of the dinner suit in the United States in the early 21st century are for balls, galas, proms, cruise ship dinners and weddings. In these circumstances the dinner suit's styling and accessories are most commonly chosen according to the wearer's tastes. Less popular are black tie events, such as gala fundraisers, where men typically wear more traditional dinner suits and accessories as dictated by the dress code.^{[citation needed]} They are also often worn by male musicians at concerts.

As a general rule, boys do not wear dinner jackets much before they are 15, or

dress coat before they are about 18.^[79]

Academia

Some British university debating societies, such as at

Irish Times hosts an annual black tie debating competition.^[85]

Learned societies, such as the Royal Aeronautical Society,^[86] may also follow a similar practice.

Black tie dinners and debates are held through the academic year by British university conservative associations, such as those at Oxford,^[87] Cambridge,^[88] York,^[89] and Nottingham.^[90]

Opera and ballet

Historically, white tie was worn for the opera. Since the 20th century, however, black tie has been worn increasingly and today a dark lounge suit is generally acceptable.^[91][92] In the 21st century, many opera houses in the English-speaking world do not stipulate black tie. For example, neither the Royal Opera House nor the Sydney Opera House maintain a black tie dress code. Notwithstanding, black tie is customary at English country house operas, such as during the summer Festival at Glyndebourne.^[2] Black tie is also worn at a ballet or orchestra gala.^{[citation needed]}

Cruise ships

At more formal dinners on

military uniform for gentlemen diners on formal evenings.^[95] Similarly, the luxury cruise liner, Seabourn, stipulates either a dinner suit or a dark business suit on formal evenings.^[96]

Weddings

Black tie has been increasingly seen in the United States at weddings in place of the traditional morning dress. However, etiquette and clothing experts see the wearing of black tie before 6 p.m. as out of the ordinary.^[97] Prior to the late 1930s, black tie was even discouraged as too informal for evening weddings, with Amy Vanderbilt arguing that "no man should ever be caught in a church in a tuxedo". Emily Post would continue to argue in preference of white tie at evening weddings into the 1950s.

In the United Kingdom and the rest of Europe, although a minority accepts black tie at evening wedding receptions, including some Jewish weddings,^[98] it is seldom worn at church weddings or civil ceremonies where morning dress or a lounge suit is normally favoured.

Other than that, supplementary alternatives include local variations of white tie etiquette, such as highland dress in Scotland, if neither white tie nor black tie is preferred.

Gallery

• 
  Official portrait of Brazilian President Washington Luís (c. 1926)
• 
  Prince Philip together with US President John F. Kennedy, and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis at Buckingham Palace

  , London, United Kingdom (1961)
• 
  US President Ronald Reagan, Audrey Hepburn, and Robert Wolders at a private dinner for the Prince of Wales at the White House, Washington, D.C., United States (1981)
• 
  US Navy Admiral

  Atlantic Council of the United States

  Distinguished Leadership Award Gala (2008).
• 
  Actors Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt at the 81st Academy Awards (2009)
• 
  King

  World Water Week at the Stockholm City Hall

  , Sweden (2011)
• 
  Anthony Bailey (with infrequent orders and medals) speaks at Faith in Sport Olympic Gala Dinner in London, United Kingdom (2012).
• 
  US President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama at the White House (2012)

See also

• Suit
• Western dress codes
• White tie
•  Fashion portal

References

1. ^ Random House Unabridged Dictionary, Second Edition, Stuart Berg Flexner and Lenore Crary Hauck, editors, Random House, New York (1993).
2. ^ ^{a b c d e f g} "Black Tie, Dress Codes, A to H, British Behaviour, Etiquette and Style | Debrett's". www.debretts.com. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
3. ^ " Dinner-jackets have for some years been worn in country houses when the family are en famille" Huddersfield Chronicle, 20 September 1887 quoting Vanity Fair
4. ^ "Fastidious Englishmen don't seem to be able to get along without a dinner-jacket" The Inter Ocean, 8 October 1889
5. ^ The Black Tie Guide original research.
6. ^ "DJ".
7. ^ "The Tuxedo coat has become popular with a great many men who regard its demi train as a happy medium between a swallow-tail and a cutaway." Chicago Daily Tribune, 19 August 1888
8. ^ ^{a b c} "History: Late Victorian Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
9. ^ "Tux Britannia". Black Tie Blog. 27 November 2013.
10. ^ Nguyen, Nam H. (26 April 2018). "27000 English-French Words Dictionary with Definitions: 27000 Dictionnaire des Mots Anglais-Français Avec Définitions".
11. ^ Millar, Jamie (1 February 2016). "The Complete Guide to Men's Dress Codes". fashionbeans.com. Retrieved 10 June 2016.
12. ISBN 978-1-59921-683-6
    .
13. ISBN 978-0-19-923205-5
    .
14. ISBN 978-0-520-08231-1
    .
15. ^ "The Tuxedo - Henry Poole". henrypoole.com. Retrieved 6 March 2019.
16. ^ "Tuxedo Origins: English Beginnings". Black Tie Blog. 14 November 2018.
17. ^ ^{a b} Safire, William (5 May 1985). "On Language; Come as You Are". The New York Times Magazine. p. 436. Retrieved 1 March 2017.
18. ^ "History: Late Victorian Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
19. ^ "History: Edwardian Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
20. ^ "History: Jazz Age". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
21. ^ "History: Depression Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
22. ^
    ISBN 9780811713771
    .
23. ^ "History: Postwar Period". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
24. ^ "History: Jet Age". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
25. ^ "History: Counterculture Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
26. ^ "Millennial Era: Black Tie Optional". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
27. ^ "Tuxedo Origins: The Tailless Tailcoat Puzzle". Black Tie Blog. 14 November 2018.
28. ^ reprinted in "The Saga Of American Society: A Record Of Social Aspiration 1607–1937". Charles Scribner's Sons. 1937.
29. ^ "The Prince and Mrs. Potter" (PDF). Tuxedo Park FYI. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2 May 2013.
30. ^ "Tuxedo Origins: Formal Sundries". Black Tie Blog. 14 November 2018.
31. ^ "Tuxedo Origins: American Backlash". Black Tie Blog. 14 November 2018.
32. ^ "History: Edwardian Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
33. ^ ^{a b} "Spotlight: The Notched Lapel". Black Tie Blog. 6 March 2014.
34. ^ "History: Depression Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
35. ^ "History: Postwar Period". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
36. ^ "History: Jet Age". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
37. ^ "History: Counter-culture Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
38. ^ "History: Yuppie Years". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
39. ^ "History: Millennial Era". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
40. ^ "Off White Dinner Jacket Warm-Weather Black Tie". 29 November 2018.
41. ^ ^{a b} "Classic Black Tie: Tuxedos (Dinner Suits)". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
42. ^ "Classic Tuxedo". 27 November 2018.
43. ^ ^{a b c} "Classic Black Tie: Shirts". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 2 February 2017.
44. ^ "The 10 Commandments of the Tuxedo". Bloomberg News. 16 December 2016.
45. ^ "Esquire: The Magazine for Men". 1996.
46. ISBN 9780060891862
    .
47. ^ ^{a b} "Attire Guide: Dress Codes from Casual to White Tie". The Emily Post Institute. Retrieved 12 May 2011.
48. ^ "Black Tie 101" (PDF). Indiana University Bloomington. Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 March 2011. Retrieved 12 May 2011.
49. ^ "Classic Black Tie: Warm-Weather Black Tie". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
50. ISBN 978-0-9929348-1-1
    .
51. ^ ^{a b} "Supplemental: Formal Weddings". Black Tie Guide. Archived from the original on 5 June 2016. Retrieved 29 May 2016.
52. ^ "Special occasions – dress codes – black-tie". Debretts. Archived from the original on 19 January 2012. Retrieved 23 December 2011.
53. ^ "Classic Black Tie: Waist Coverings". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
54. ISBN 9781849944144.^{[permanent dead link}
    ]
55. ISBN 9780857967800
    .
56. ^ ^{a b} "Black Tie Guide | Classic Alternatives". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 29 May 2016.
57. ^ Gavernas, Mary Lisa, The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Menswear, Fairchild Publications, New York, 2008
58. ISBN 978-0060191443
    .
59. ^ "White Tie: Shirt". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 29 May 2016.
60. ^ ^{a b} "Classic Accessories". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 29 May 2016.
61. ^ "Classic Black Tie: Footwear". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 1 April 2011.
62. ISBN 978-0-9929348-1-1
    .
63. ^ "Contemporary: Other". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 29 May 2016.
64. ISBN 978-1401604714
    .
65. ^ Hémard, Ned (2010). "New Orleans Nostalgia: Gardenias, Magnolias and Oleanders". New Orleans Bar Association. Retrieved 1 February 2019.
66. ^ "Classic Outerwear". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
67. ^ "Vintage: Outerwear". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
68. ^ "Vintage: Warm Weather". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
69. ^ "Vintage Evening Outerwear". 4 December 2018.
70. ISBN 978-0-9929348-1-1
    .
71. ^ "Supplemental: Decorations". Black Tie Guide. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
72. ISBN 9780312156022
    .
73. ISBN 9781429978286
    .
74. ^ ^{a b} Alexander, Hilary. "Smoke Without Fire". '"The Telegraph (12 December 2005).
75. ^ ^{a b} Menkes, Suzy. "A toast to Yves for 'le smoking'". The International Herald Tribune (10 October 2005). Archived 19 February 2006 at the Wayback Machine
76. ^ ^{a b} "Paris honours the Tuxedo, Yves St. Laurent's fashion favourite". Agence France-Presse (3 October 2005). Archived 21 December 2005 at the Wayback Machine
77. ^ "Le Smoking". Dazed Digital. Archived from the original on 7 February 2009.
78. ^ "The Ultimate Guide to Choosing a Party Dress Code". cateringonthemove.com.au.
79. ^ "Etiquette: Tradition". Black Tie Guide. 21 November 2018.
80. ^ "Formal Debates - the Oxford Union". www.oxford-union.org.
81. ^ "Durham Union Society – Friday Night Debates". dus.org.uk. Archived from the original on 29 January 2018. Retrieved 28 January 2018.
82. ^ "UCL Debating Society Foundation Dinner 2019 Tickets, Sat, Mar 23, 2019 at 6:30 PM". Eventbrite. Retrieved 17 March 2019.
83. ISBN 9780748790272
    .
84. ^ "Cambridge Union relaxes dress code". The Independent. 26 January 2002. Retrieved 17 March 2019.
85. ^ "The Irish Times Debate: Speakers prepare for 2021 final". The Irish Times.
86. ^ "Black Tie Debate and Dinner (1)". Royal Aeronautical Society. Archived from the original on 30 September 2017. Retrieved 30 September 2017.
87. ^ Oxford University Conservative Association Termcard - Trinity Term 2023 - pg 10 https://www.ouconservatives.com/termcard
88. ^ Ullah, Emaan (9 February 2022). "Port and witty debate? More like port and shitty debate". Varsity Online. Retrieved 20 August 2022.
89. ^ "Conservative & Unionist Association (York Tories)". University of York Students' Union. Retrieved 20 August 2023.
90. ^ Archer, Joseph (25 February 2016). "Port and Policy: A night of debauchery with the Conservative society". The Nottingham Tab. Retrieved 20 August 2023.
91. ^ "Protocol Professionals, Inc. - Opera Protocol Tips". protocolprofessionals.com.
92. ^ "Opera Etiquette". Debrett's.
93. ISBN 978-0-470-63721-0
    . Retrieved 2 January 2015.
94. ^ Kim, Soo (18 March 2013). "Cunard relaxes cruise ship dress code". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 January 2015.
95. ^ "Is there a dress code on board?". Cunard. Retrieved 2 January 2015.
96. ^ "Welcome Aboard Seabourn" (PDF). Seabourn Cruise Line Limited. p. 21. Archived (PDF) from the original on 9 October 2022. Retrieved 10 June 2016.
97. ISBN 978-1-56731-629-2
    . p. 210: First and foremost, there's only one woman at a wedding who should be wearing a white dress. After that basic rule, follow the invitation. Weddings before 6:00 P.M. are not usually black tie unless specified. However, this doesn't mean that you should wear your office attire.
98. ^ "Male Dress Codes". Debrett's.

Further reading

Magazines

• Apparel Arts magazine, an account of 1930s fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with comment at The London Lounge: Vol II. No. II and Vol I. No. III
  (numbering: London Lounge, not original)

Books

• Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit. London: Quartet Books Ltd.
  ISBN 978-0-7043-7169-9
  .
• Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style.
  ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2
  .
• ISBN 9780465053995
  .
• Donald, Elsie, ed. (1981). Debrett's Etiquette and Modern Manners. London: Debrett's Peerage Limited.
  ISBN 978-0-905649-43-6
  .
• ISBN 978-0-06-019144-3
  .
• ISBN 978-0061976155
  .
• Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook.
  ISBN 978-0-9929348-4-2
  .
• Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson.
  ISBN 978-0-297-79191-1
  .
• Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie (2014). Emily Post's Wedding Etiquette (6 ed.). New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-06-232610-2
  .
• Post, Peggy; Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie; Post Senning, Daniel (2011). Emily Post's Etiquette. New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-06-174023-7
  .
• Roetzel, Bernhard (2009). Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion. Cambridge: Tandem Verlag GmbH.
  ISBN 978-3-8331-5270-2
  .
• Schneider, Sven (2017). Black Tie & Tuxedo Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC.
• Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing. Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd.
  ISBN 978-1-84468-037-5
  .
• Tuckerman, Nancy; Dunnan, Nancy (1995). The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette: 50th Anniversary Edition (1 ed.). New York: Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-385413428
  .
• Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook.
  ISBN 978-0-9929348-1-1
  .

Websites

• The Emily Post Institute provides a breakdown of traditional categories of progressing formality in dress for men and women.
• Debrett's is the most prominent British authority on etiquette, which discusses the elements of black tie.
• Pullman, Nigel. "Dress codes" (PDF). Livery Companies of the City of London. Archived (PDF) from the original on 9 October 2022. Retrieved 17 October 2018.
• Pithers, Ellie (10 December 2018). "Black-Tie Dress Code For Women". Vogue. Retrieved 7 April 2019.

External links

• Media related to Black tie (dress code) at Wikimedia Commons