Diplomatic uniform
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Diplomatic uniforms are ornate uniforms worn by diplomats—ambassadorial and consular officers—at public occasions. Introduced by European states around 1800 and patterned on court dress, they were abandoned by most countries in the twentieth century, but diplomats from some countries retain them for rare, formal occasions.
History
Until the late 18th century, diplomats (who usually belonged to the
Several non-European courts adopted European-style diplomatic uniforms during the 19th century. Notably, Japan during the
While most countries abandoned diplomatic uniforms at some time during the 20th century, several long-established foreign services have retained them for wear by senior staff on ceremonial occasions such as the formal presentation of credentials by ambassadors. A photo of the 2001 New Year's reception at the Vatican shows the ambassadors of Monaco, the Netherlands, Thailand, the United Kingdom, Spain, France, and Belgium all clad in diplomatic uniform.[1] In recent decades, some ambassadors from Cambodia,[4] Denmark,[5] France,[6][7] and Italy[8] have also been seen in uniform at the presentation of their credentials.
Design
Diplomatic uniforms generally followed 19th century court fashion and usually included a
Diplomatic uniforms were usually richly
Thus, as examples, French ambassadors were distinguished by pearl-handled court swords with gold and silk frogs (sword attachments), their Portuguese colleagues by oak leaves and acorns represented in gold embroidery on their dress coats, while Norwegian diplomats wore gold embroidery of pine cone design on their dark blue "swallow-tail" coats.[9] Belgian diplomats of all ranks had "royal blue" tail coats and retained the 18th century fashion of white breeches and stockings with low shoes.[10] Today, Belgian diplomats wear blue and gold waist sashes, Spanish diplomats red cuffs on their dark blue tail-coats,[11] and Danish diplomats distinctive red coats.[12]
By country
France
Elaborately embroidered dress for French diplomats, counsellors of state and other high ranking civilian officials evolved during the Second Empire. These in turn served as a model for othe European states, being known as habits à la francaise (French clothes). Worn for ceremonial occasions by all ranks of the diplomatic service until World War II, these richly decorated garments were retained for ambassadors only until 1960.[13]
Germany
In 1817, Prussian diplomats received as uniforms dark blue tail coats with cuffs and a standing collar of black velvet, decorated with oak leaf scrolls embroidered in gold. In 1888, the German Empire introduced the Altbrandenburgischer Waffenrock, a long military-style coat, as the general state uniform for high-ranking officials.[1] Military uniform was worn instead of court uniform by military officers and by those political figures who were reserve officers, which included most diplomats: it was practically impossible under the Empire for one to be a civil servant or a state secretary of ministerial rank without also being a reserve officer.
Diplomatic uniforms were abandoned under the
Italy
Royal Decree No. 1038 of 8 March 1928 established uniforms for diplomatic and consular officers, consular commissioners, interpreters, and hot weather. The basic uniform was of dark turquoise, except for the hot-weather uniform, which was white. By Decree of the President of the Republic No. 1125 of 21 June 1948, Fascist and royal emblems were replaced with republican symbols.[8] Following the issuance of the decreto legge of 25 June 2008, No. 112, converted into law on 6 August 2008, No. 133,[14] in particular the article No. 24, annex "A" No. 334, repealed the 1928 royal decree.[15] Therefore, it is not clear whether the diplomatic uniform is in force or not, since the 1948 presidential decree has not been repealed.
Japan
Following the
On 4 December 1886, the designs of the court uniforms for civil officials were modified, but the designs for junior officials were not updated; due to the high cost of formal court dress, junior civil officials wore standard white tie court dress from then on.
The standard diplomatic uniform for officials in the three primary categories of the Imperial Japanese diplomatic service (chokuninkan, sōninkan and hanninkan) consisted of a black wool frock coat with gold-embroidered paulownia flowers (chokuninkan) or buds (sōninkan and hanninkan) with gold-embroidered paulownia leaves and ornamentation in patterns and in areas of the coat corresponding to the respective category. The uniform coat was worn with a wool vest (waistcoat) in black or dark gray (chokuninkan and sōninkan) or in navy blue (hanninkan), with wool trousers in the same colors, again corresponding to category. All officials in the three primary categories wore a plumed bicorne hat with their uniforms, with the right side of the hat embellished according to category. Civil officials below the hanninkan level used standard white-tie court dress. However, the higher-ranking among these affixed symbols of their ranks to each cuff.
Diplomats who were also peers (華族, kazoku) could also wear the established uniforms corresponding to their rank, as could former or serving officers of the Imperial Japanese military.
Japanese court and diplomatic dress ceased to be worn after World War II, with the abolition of the pertinent Imperial Household Agency edicts (effective 2 May 1947) and the pertinent Dajō-kan edicts on 1 July 1954,[21][22] respectively.
Poland
The Second Polish Republic used diplomatic uniforms, similar to other European countries. Ambassadors and ministers had full embroidery of oak leaves on their chests, collars and cuffs, and white ostrich feathers on a bicorne. Counsellors did not have full embroidery on their chests, but had similar collars and cuffs to Ambassadors. Secretaries were similar to counsellors but did not have embroidery on the collar. Counsellors, secretaries and attachés had black ostrich feathers on a bicorne. Consuls and their staff did not have feathers in bicornes or full embroidery on their chest. Sabres were also used, and buttons on the uniform had a depiction of the Polish eagle.[23][24]
The
Portugal
Although the diplomatic uniform was already in use during the
The diplomatic uniform, as described in the 1913 decree, comprised "dark blue gold-striped cloth trousers and a single-breasted coatee of the same cloth with a stand collar". For heads of mission, First and Second Class, the coatee's collar, chest, cuffs, pocket flaps and tails edge were all to be decorated with gold embroidery; lower-rank diplomats did not bear gold embroidery on their chest.[27] The buttons were gilt and bore the national coat of arms. The sword should bear the same arms, and was mounted on an embroidered sword belt. The uniform was worn with a cocked hat with a black feather border.[27] The decree stipulated the diplomatic uniform was to be worn during ceremonies and "in those countries in which the use of a diplomatic uniform is deemed necessary". It also prescribed an alternative uniform for use "in countries where it is customary to wear [such a uniform]": "dark blue cloth trousers and a coatee of the same cloth, to be worn unbuttoned, with a velvet collar and gilt buttons embossed with the arms of the Portuguese Republic; a waistcoat of the same cloth and bearing identical buttons, and white tie".[27]
On 19 September 1940, a ministerial order issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs made slight changes to the uniforms to further distinguish those with the rank of Ambassador: it added a further gold embroidered trim of intertwined oak and olive-leaf along the edge of the chest embroidery, continuing along the edge of the tails, as well as an identical trim around the edge of the cuffs. The cocked hat for Ambassadors, was now to be lined with white feathers, as opposed to the black feathers worn by those of inferior diplomatic rank.[28]
According to Bouza Serrano, there's the tradition among the Portuguese diplomatic service to keep their uniforms unaltered and not add the additional oak-leaf gold embroidery on the chest upon reaching the rank of Ambassador. This served to distinguish between career diplomats and political appointees, the latter of which were immediately entitled to use the elaborately embroidered uniform; the former retained their less ornate uniform from their time as Counsellor as a mark of seniority, changing only the colour of the feathers on the edging of their hats from black to white.[25]
Although they are not mentioned in the pieces of legislation that describe the diplomatic uniform, it is customary to wear white gloves as part of the full uniform. At indoors receptions in Portugal (usually, that means at the palaces of Ajuda, Queluz, or, less often, Necessidades), neither gloves, nor cocked hat, nor sword are worn.[25]
Russia and the Soviet Union
In 1834, the Russian Empire introduced diplomatic uniforms. As worn until 1917 these were of dark green (almost black) cloth with bicorn hats and braiding according to rank. Regulations introduced in 1904 specified six variations of the dark green uniform, depending on the nature of the occasion for which it was worn. These included plain uniforms without gold braid for office wear, plus white knee breeches and stocking for court functions when royalty were present. Peaked caps and epaulettes of military style were specified for street wear or informal occasions when the bicorn or braided tailcoat was considered unsuitable.
After the Russian Revolution, a document entitled "Short Instruction on Adhering to the Accepted Bourgeois Society Etiquette Rules" by the People's Commissariat for Foreign Affairs (NKID) instructed the revolutionary diplomats to wear jackets on formal occasions. From 1923 to 1924, Moscow newspapers debated whether the wearing of civilian Western dress and thereby "bourgeois society symbols, which are totally alien to the spirit of the Workers' and Peasants' State" was appropriate, and there were calls for a Soviet diplomatic uniform to be introduced.[29]
But it was not until 1943 that a uniform was introduced for NKID staff, consisting of a three-piece uniform suit with gold-plated buttons and shoulder straps. The everyday uniform was grey and the dress uniform, which included a dagger, was black. Accoutrements included a coat, raincoat, hat and an ornate cap with the diplomatic insignia.
The wearing of uniform by all Soviet diplomats on formal occasions was officially discontinued in 1954; thereafter only ambassadors continued to wear the dress uniform, without the dagger, on special occasions.
Sweden
The current Swedish diplomatic uniform consists of a dark blue tailcoat with gold olive-leaf embroidery on the collar, chest and cuffs with gilt buttons. Dark blue trousers with gold stripes, dark blue cape and a bicorne with a white plume are also worn, plus white gloves and a gilt
The diplomatic uniform is typically worn by Swedish officials accompanying foreign ambassadors to their
Switzerland
The regulations of the Swiss department of foreign affairs of 1915 instructed Swiss diplomats to wear "a uniform or a frock coat" when presenting their credentials. Swiss diplomats received a blue uniform with golden embroideries of alpine roses and edelweiss for use on formal occasions, but remained free to wear a frock coat or their own military uniform instead.[34]
The uniform appears to have been abandoned some time after World War II,[35] to the dismay of some diplomats: There was an "association for the reintroduction of the diplomatic uniform" as of 1987[update], founded and led by Secretary of State Franz Blankart.[36]
United Kingdom
Historic
British diplomats wore the official court uniform consisting of a dark blue button-down high-collar jacket with gold oak-leaf embroidery on the collar, chest, cuffs and long tails; white breeches were worn, or else dark blue trousers with gold stripes, and a
Ambassadors wore '1st Class' court uniform, with additional gold embroidery on the sleeve and back seams. More junior officers wore different classes of uniform with simplified braiding on cuffs and collars only, as specified for their rank or appointment, (the classes of uniform were differentiated by varying widths of gold embroidery). Members of the Consular Service wore court uniforms with silver braiding according to rank, in contrast to the gold of diplomatic officers. The King's or Queen's Foreign Service Messengers were entitled to '5th Class' court uniform, upgraded to '4th Class' in 1929.
Until about 1965 Foreign Office Regulations and Consular Instructions had required even junior foreign service officers to acquire this formal dress, following completion of their probation period. However, by the end of the 20th century the use of this uniform had greatly diminished.
Current
A simplified diplomatic uniform is worn by
The uniform is worn today by British representatives to certain jurisdictions, including the Holy See, Spain and Thailand.[38] In addition, it is worn by the Permanent Under-Secretary of State for Foreign and Commonwealth Affairs and by certain senior Foreign Office officials.[39][40] A tropical version is also worn in Thailand.[41] A version for women was introduced in 2013;[38][42] previously they only had the option of a silver-gilt badge of office (the royal cypher encircled by the words 'Her Majesty's Diplomatic Service) hung from a Garter-blue ribbon bow.[43]
United States
American diplomats were first issued uniforms for the mission concluding the 1814 Treaty of Ghent; these consisted of a blue gold-embroidered coat, white breeches and stockings, a sword and a cocked hat with a black cockade. U.S. diplomats routinely designed and wore uniforms of their own choosing until 1817, when the State Department formally prescribed a uniform for ministers based on the one issued for the Ghent mission.[44] This uniform was recommended for use by all ministers abroad by Secretary of State John Quincy Adams in 1823.[45]
The Jackson administration simplified the uniform in 1829, which now consisted of a black coat with a gold star on each side of the collar, black or white breeches, a three-cornered
In response to what was perceived as the excessive ostentatiousness of some of these individualized uniforms, Congress banned diplomatic uniforms altogether in 1867, by passing a resolution forbidding diplomatic officials to wear "any uniform or official costume not previously authorized by Congress".
For a period of time, U.S. diplomats and consular officers wore modified
While there has continued to be discussion on the idea of reintroducing uniforms for the
References
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- ^ Blakeslee, Fred Gilbert (1929). Uniforms of the World. New York: E. P. Dutton.
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- ^ "Claus Grube Photos Photos: Queen Elizabeth II Holds a Private Audience". Zimbio. Retrieved 1 September 2020.[dead link]
- ^ "STOCK IMAGE – His Excellency JEAN GUEGUINOU French Diplomatist Ambassador to the United Kingdom COMPULSORY CREDIT: UPPA/Photoshot Photo URK 006923/C-29 01.12.1993 by www.DIOMEDIA.com". Diomedia. Retrieved 1 September 2020.
- ^ Berthod, Bernard; Blanchard, Pierre (2001). Trésors inconnus du Vatican (in French). Paris: Les éditions de l'Amateur. pp. 154–155.
- ^ a b Diplomatic Protocol 2.0: Tradition and Innovation at the service of foreign affairs (PDF). Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Italy. 2014. Archived from the original (PDF) on 27 January 2018. Retrieved 1 September 2020.
- ^ Fred Gilbert Blakeslee, page 311, "Uniforms of the World", published by E.P. Dutten & Co. Ltd, 1929
- ^ Fred Gilbert Blakeslee, page 225, "Uniforms of the World", published by E.P. Dutten & Co. Ltd, 1929
- ^ "The new Spanish ambassador in the Vatican presents his credentials to the Pope". 18 June 2012. Retrieved 3 June 2016.
- ^ "New Danish Ambassador in Great Britain". Retrieved 3 June 2016.
- ^ page 14 Armes Militaria 280 "La broderie militaire, une evocation", Novembre 2008
- ^ "Supplemento ordinario alla Gazzetta Ufficiale,, n. 195 del 21 agosto 2008 – Serie generale".
- ^ "Gazzetta Ufficiale del Regno D'Italia, Parte Prima".
- ^ Dajō-kan Edict No. 339 12 December 1872. Taireifuku oyobi tsūjōreifuku wo sadame, ikan wo saifuku to nasu nado no ken (大礼服及通常礼服ヲ定メ衣冠ヲ祭服ト為ス等ノ件). View here.
- ^ Dajō-kan Edict No. 373 29 December 1872. Taireifuku oyobi tsūjōreifuku chakuyoubi no ken (大礼服及通常礼服著用日ノ件). View here.
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- ^ JACAR (Japan Center for Asian Historical Records) Ref.A07090081700. 改定文官大礼服制表並図・勅奏任官 [Independent Documents: Tables and Illustrations on Revised Ceremonial Dress Code for Civil Officials: Officials under Imperial Appointment and Officials Appointed with the Emperor's Approval] (in Japanese).
{{cite book}}
: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) - ^ Kōki Hirota is seen in Japan News No. 111 Archived 6 August 2014 at the Wayback Machine and No. 166 Archived 5 October 2015 at the Wayback Machine; Sawada Renzō in No. 24 Archived 14 December 2013 at the Wayback Machine
- ^ Imperial Household Ordinance No. 12 2 May 1947. Kōshitsurei oyobi fuzoku hourei haishi no ken (皇室令及附属法令廃止ノ件)
- ^ Law No. 203 1 July 1954. Act on the Adjustment of Cabinet and Prime Ministerial Laws and Ordinances (内閣及び総理府関係法令の整理に関する法律, Naikaku oyobi sourifu kankei hourei no seiri ni kansuru houritsu)
- ^ "Mundur służby dyplomatyczno-konsularnej w okresie II RP". Ministerstwo Spraw Zagranicznych. Retrieved 25 December 2023.
- ^ "Rozporządzenie Rady Ministrów z dnia 19 lutego 1926 r. w sprawie umundurowania urzędników służby dyplomatycznej i konsularnej". Dziennik Ustaw Rzeczypospolitej Polskiej. Retrieved 25 December 2023.
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- ^ a b c Ministério dos Negócios Estrangeiros, Direcção-Geral dos Negócios Políticos e Diplomáticos (10 January 1913). "Decreto de 4 de Janeiro de 1913". Diário do Govêrno n.o 8/1913, Série I de 1913-01-10. Diário da República Eletrónico. Retrieved 3 October 2022.
- ^ Ministério dos Negócios Estrangeiros, Direcção-Geral dos Negócios Políticos e da Administração Interna (20 September 1940). "Portaria de 19 de Setembro de 1940". Diário do Govêrno n.o 227/1940, Série I de 1940-09-28. Diário da República Eletrónico. Retrieved 3 October 2022.
- ^ a b Lyadov, P.F. "Protocol and Etiquette". Russian Embassy in Chile (originally published in DIPLOMAT). Archived from the original on 3 October 2011. Retrieved 5 September 2010.
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- ^ "Sergey Lavrov, Igor Ivanov". Sulekha. Archived from the original on 24 October 2013. Retrieved 23 October 2013.
Russian Foreign Minister Sergey Lavrov, left, former Foreign Minister Igor Ivanov, center, both wearing official Russian diplomatic uniform, and Head of the Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry Yevgeny Primakov, former Prime Minister, share a laugh after a meeting marking the professional holiday in Moscow, Wednesday, 10 Feb. 2010. (AP Photo)
- ^ "Högtidliga audienser: UD:s introduktör". kungahuset.se (in Swedish). Royal Court of Sweden. Archived from the original on 25 July 2020. Retrieved 25 July 2020.
- ^ "Aeplis Diplomaten-Uniform im HVM St.Gallen". Aepli Gesellschaft (in German). 10 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2022.
- ^ Hirschi, Jonas. "Der unsichtbare Dienst. Geschichte des diplomatischen Protokolls der Schweiz 1946–1990". dodis.ch (in German). pp. 93–94. Retrieved 1 August 2022.
- ^ von Tscharner, Benedikt (2014). ""Diplomatie" – zum Handbuch von Paul Widmer". SGA ASPE (in German). Retrieved 1 August 2022.
Goldbestickte Uniformen, Zweispitz und weisse Handschuhe tragen unsere Diplomaten selbst bei den allerfeierlichsten Anlässen seit Jahrzehnten nicht mehr
- ^ Blankart, Franz (27 August 1987), Das BAWI und die Herausforderung der Aussenwirtschaft. Einführungsreferat von Staatssekretär Franz Blankart, Direktor des Bundesamtes für Aussenwirtschaft, Botschafterkonferenz 1987, 27.8.1987 (in German), Diplomatische Dokumente der Schweiz | Documents diplomatiques suisses | Documenti diplomatici svizzeri | Diplomatic Documents of Switzerland | Dodis, retrieved 1 August 2022
- ^ "Diplomatic Uniforms at the Holy See". Foreign & Commonwealth Office. 17 August 2015. Retrieved 2 June 2016.
- ^ a b Axworthy, Sally [@SallyAxworthy] (14 October 2018). "@DanielNixon_ @theallysonkenny @UKinHolySee @UKinPeru It is a diplomatic uniform, once widely worn by diplomats, now only surviving in a few places like the Holy See, Spain and Thailand. The UK Foreign Office introduced a version for women in 2013. I am the only female British ambassador who wears one, as far as I know" (Tweet). Retrieved 29 December 2020 – via Twitter.
- ^ Simon, McDonald [@SMcDonaldFCO] (31 August 2020). "In 5 years, I was present when 124 Ambassadors & 39 High Commissioners presented Credentials to HM The Queen in 84 ceremonies. Photo taken at Ambassadors' Entrance @foreignoffice after ceremony on 24 June 2016, busiest day in my career. Whatever happens, we respond https://t.co/kV1OIHTEXY" (Tweet). Retrieved 29 December 2020 – via Twitter.
- ^ Jones, Peter [@PeterJonesFCDO] (19 December 2019). "You spend ages waiting for a #QueensSpeech invitation, then two turn up in quick succession. The greatest privilege to attend. Immaculately organised https://t.co/JSAfiJarhk" (Tweet). Retrieved 29 December 2020 – via Twitter.
- ^ Kent, Mark [@KentArgentina] (7 December 2014). "Attending the Grand Reception to celebrate the Birthday of HM the King this evening http://t.co/LwN6FXoLg1" (Tweet). Retrieved 29 December 2020 – via Twitter.
- ^ "New Director of Protocol takes office". Embassy Network. 20 December 2015. Retrieved 2 September 2020.
- ^ Risk, James; Pownall, Henry; Stanley, David; Tamplin, John (2001). Royal Service (Volume II). Lingfield, Surrey: Third Millennium. p. 103.
- ^ a b c "Diplomatic and Consular Uniforms". Archived from the original on 15 April 2017. Retrieved 17 January 2011.
- ^ ISBN 978-1-150-20435-7.
- ISBN 978-0-313-29126-5.
Further reading
- Davis, Robert Ralph (1968). "Diplomatic Plumage: American Court Dress in the Early National Period". JSTOR 2711029.
- Buchner, Heide (2002). Nach Rang und Stand: Deutsche Ziviluniformen im 19. Jahrhundert (in German). Deutsches Textilmuseum. ISBN 978-3-00-009193-3.
External links
- Russian and Soviet diplomatic uniforms (in Russian) Archived 13 February 2021 at the Wayback Machine