Exeter
Exeter | |
---|---|
; The Iron Bridge | |
City council | |
• Body | Exeter City Council |
• MP | Ben Bradshaw (Labour) |
Area | |
• Total | 18.16 sq mi (47.03 km2) |
• Rank | 246th (of 296) |
Population (2021)[2] | |
• Total | 129,307 |
• Rank | 181st (of 296) |
• Density | 7,100/sq mi (2,700/km2) |
• Demonyms | Exonian |
• Ethnicity (2011)[3] | 93.05% White |
Postcode district | |
Area code | 01392 |
Website | exeter |
Exeter (/ˈɛksɪtər/ ⓘ EK-sih-tər) is a cathedral city and the county town of Devon, South West England. It is situated on the River Exe, approximately 36 mi (58 km) northeast of Plymouth and 65 mi (105 km) southwest of Bristol.
In
The administrative area of Exeter has the status of a non-metropolitan district under the administration of the County Council. It is the county town of Devon and home to the headquarters of Devon County Council. A plan to grant the city unitary authority status was scrapped by the 2010 coalition government.[citation needed]
Name
The modern name of Exeter is a development of the
History
Prehistory
Exeter began as settlements on a dry ridge ending in a spur overlooking a navigable river teeming with fish, with fertile land nearby. Although there have been no major prehistoric finds, these advantages suggest the site was occupied early.[6]
Coins have been discovered from the Hellenistic kingdoms, suggesting the existence of a settlement trading with the Mediterranean as early as 250 BC.[7] Such early towns had been a feature of pre-Roman Gaul as described by Julius Caesar in his Commentaries and it is possible that they existed in Britannia as well.
The unreliable source Geoffrey of Monmouth stated that when Vespasian besieged the city in 49 AD its Celtic name was Kaerpenhuelgoit, meaning 'town on the hill under the high wood'.[8]
Roman times
The
The presence of the fort built up an unplanned civilian community (
In the late 2nd century, the ditch and rampart defences around the old fortress were replaced by a bank and wall enclosing a much larger area, some 92 acres (37 hectares).
Medieval times
Exeter was known to the Saxons as Escanceaster.
Two years after the Norman conquest of England, Exeter rebelled against King William. Gytha Thorkelsdóttir, the mother of the slain King Harold, was living in the city at the time, and William promptly marched west and initiated a siege. After 18 days, William accepted the city's honourable surrender, swearing an oath not to harm the city or increase its ancient tribute. However, William quickly arranged for the building of Rougemont Castle to strengthen Norman control over the area. Properties owned by Saxon landlords were transferred into Norman hands and, on the death of Bishop Leofric in 1072, the Norman Osbern FitzOsbern was appointed his successor.[30]
In 1136, early in
The city held a weekly market for the benefit of its citizens from at least 1213, and by 1281 Exeter was the only town in the south-west to have three market days per week. There are also records of seven annual fairs, the earliest of which dates from 1130, and all of which continued until at least the early 16th century.[34]
Prior to the expulsion of the Jews of England in 1290, Exeter was home to England's most westerly Jewish community.[35]
During the high medieval period, both the cathedral clergy and the citizens enjoyed access to sophisticated aqueduct systems which brought pure drinking water into the city from springs in the neighbouring parish of St Sidwell's. For part of their length, these aqueducts were conveyed through a remarkable network of tunnels, or underground passages, which survive largely intact and which may still be visited today.[36]
Exeter and Bristol hosted the first recorded Common Council in the Medieval England.[37] The first detailed and continuous evidence of its existence and activity was founded after 1345.[38] Formed by twelve "better and more discreet men" (in Latin: duodecim meliores), reelected each year, it was originally designed to control the abuse of the Major and of his four stewards, which respectively presided over the borough court and the provost court. The members of the Common Council come from the same elite of wealthy citizens, as did the major and the stewards[39] and this concern introduced a second conflict of interests in the government organism of the city.
Modern times
- Tudor and Stuart eras
In 1537, the city was made a county corporate. In 1549, the city successfully withstood a month-long siege by the so-called Prayer Book rebels: Devon and Cornish folk who had been infuriated by the radical religious policies of King Edward VI. The insurgents occupied the suburbs of Exeter, burnt down two of the city gates and attempted to undermine the city walls, but were eventually forced to abandon the siege after they had been worsted in a series of bloody battles with the king's army. A number of rebels were executed in the immediate aftermath of the siege.[40] The Livery Dole almshouses and chapel at Heavitree were founded in March 1591 and finished in 1594.
When John Hooker was appointed to the city payroll in 1561, he created the Court of Orphans as a municipal government for families broken by the premature death of their major economic source. He also was made the Common Council as the legal owner of any estate left to the orphan children of Exeter, until they have reached the age of 21 to be partially paid back.[41] The orphan tax was used to fund the construction of the Exeter canal.[42]
The city's motto,
When in 1638 Reverend John Wheelwright was exiled from the Massachusetts Bay Colony and subsequently established a community on the banks of the Squamscott River, he named the region Exeter after its Devonian counterpart. During the American Revolution it became the capital of New Hampshire.[44]
Exeter was secured for Parliament at the beginning of the English Civil War, and its defences very much strengthened, but in September 1643 it was captured by the Cornish Royalist Army led by Prince Maurice. Thereafter, the city remained firmly under the king's control until near the end of the war, being one of the final Royalist cities to fall into Parliamentarian hands.[45] The surrender of Exeter was negotiated in April 1646 at Poltimore House by Thomas Fairfax.[46] During this period, Exeter was an economically powerful city, with a strong trade of wool. This was partly due to the surrounding area which was "more fertile and better inhabited than that passed over the preceding day" according to Count Lorenzo Magalotti who visited the city when he was 26 years old.[47] Magalotti writes of over thirty thousand people being employed in the county of Devon as part of the wool and cloth industries, merchandise that was sold to "the West Indies, Spain, France and Italy".[48] Celia Fiennes also visited Exeter during this period, in the early 18th century. She remarked on the "vast trade" and "incredible quantity" in Exeter, recording that "it turns the most money in a week of anything in England", between £10,000 and £15,000.[49]
- Georgian and Victorian eras
Early in the
In 1832, cholera, which had been erupting all across Europe, reached Exeter. The only known documentation of this event was written by Dr Thomas Shapter, one of the medical doctors present during the epidemic.[52]
The first railway to arrive in Exeter was the
The first electricity in Exeter was provided by the Exeter Electric Light Company, which was formed at the end of the 1880s, but it was municipalised in 1896 and became the City of Exeter Electricity Company.[53] In 1896 £88,000 was spent constructing sewerage system which reduced the risk of infectious diseases,[54]
The first
20th century
A new bridge across the Exe was opened on 29 March 1905, replacing the former Georgian bridge. Made of cast iron and steel with a three hinged arch design, it cost £25,000 and was designed by Sir John Wolfe Barry.[51] Also in 1905, electric trams replaced the horse trams[56] with a new route which passed along the High Street, down Fore Street and over the new Exe Bridge. Once across the Exe the line divided, with one route along Alphington Road and another along Cowick Street. The line to St David's Station travelled along Queen Street instead of along New North Road and the line to Heavitree was extended.[57] On 17 March 1917, a tram went out of control going down Fore Street, hit a horse-drawn wagon, then overturned on Exe Bridge; one female passenger was killed.[58] By the 1920s there were problems with congestion caused by the trams, a need for expensive track renewal work and the slow speed of the trams in Exeter's narrow streets. After much discussion, the council decided to replace the tram service with double-decker buses and the last tram ran on 19 August 1931. The only remaining Exeter tram in service is car 19, now at the Seaton Tramway.[59]
Exeter was bombed by the German Luftwaffe during the Second World War when a total of 18 raids between 1940 and 1942 flattened much of the city centre. Between April 1941 and April 1943, Exeter was defended from enemy bombers by the
In April and May 1942, as part of the Baedeker Blitz and specifically in response to the RAF bombing of Lübeck and Rostock, 40 acres (16 hectares) of the city were leveled by incendiary bombing. Many historic buildings in the center—particularly adjacent to High Street and Sidwell Street—were destroyed, and others, including the cathedral, were damaged. On the night of 4 May, the Polish 307 Squadron dispatched four available aircraft against forty German Junkers Ju 88 bombers, preventing four German aircraft from releasing their load of bombs on Exeter. 156 people were killed, but the squadron suffered no casualties in the process.
To commemorate the friendship that had formed between the 307 Squadron and Exeter, the squadron presented the city with a Polish flag on 15 November 1942 (the first British city to have had that honour) outside Exeter Cathedral. Since 2012, a Polish flag is raised over the city's Guildhall on 15 November; the day is now known as '307 Squadron Day' in Exeter. On 15 November 2017, a plaque in memory of the squadron was unveiled in the St James Chapel of Exeter Cathedral by the Polish Ambassador Arkady Rzegocki.
Large areas of the city centre were rebuilt in the 1950s, with little attempt to preserve or restore historic buildings. The street plan was altered in an attempt to improve traffic circulation, and former landmarks like St Lawrence, the College of the Vicars Choral, and Bedford circus disappeared. The modern architecture stands in sharp contrast to the red sandstone of buildings that survived the Blitz.[60] One notable exception was The House That Moved, which is one of Europe's oldest private residences,[61] which was due for demolition for a new relief road, but was saved after the intervention of the Ministry of Works, and was moved to a new location.[62][63]
On 27 October 1960, following very heavy rain, the Exe overflowed and flooded large areas of Exeter including Exwick, St Thomas and Alphington. The water rose as high as 2 metres above ground level in places and 150 employees of the local firm Beach Bros were trapped for nine hours. 2,500 properties were flooded. Later the same year on 3 December the river levels rose again, flooding 1,200 properties. These floods led to the construction of new
A high-profile, random murder of a child occurred in the city in 1997, which today remains one of the UK's highest-profile unsolved murders. 14-year-old
21st century
The Princesshay shopping centre adjoining the Cathedral Close and the High Street was redeveloped between 2005 and 2007,[66][67] despite some local opposition.[68] It incorporates 123 varied residential units.[69]
To enable people with limited mobility to enjoy the city, Exeter Community Transport Association provides manual and powered wheelchairs and scooters ('Shopmobility') for use by anyone suffering from short- or long-term mobility impairment to access the city centre shopping facilities, events and meetings with friends.[70]
In May 2008 there was an
On 12 October 2012, John Lewis opened its first high-street home store on Sidwell Street, with an area of 65,000 ft, it was the biggest John Lewis store to open that year.[72] It took on 300 staff. [73]
A £30 million improvement scheme for the flood defences was approved in March 2015. The plans involve the removal of
A serious fire broke out in buildings in central Exeter on 28 October 2016. The Royal Clarence Hotel, 18 Cathedral Yard and The Well House Tavern[77] were severely damaged in the fire.[78][79] In July 2017 the restoration plans were officially unveiled, with the rebuild expected to be completed in 18 months and a scheduled reopening of the hotel in 2019.[80][81] 18 Cathedral Yard was repaired by November 2018, but there was a second round of bids for the work to complete repairs to The Well House, and to rebuild the Royal Clarence Hotel as a 74-bedroom hotel.[82][83][84] However, in late 2021 it was announced that the hotel scheme was "significantly unviable",[85] and the Royal Clarence site would be converted into twenty-three luxury apartments with the ground floor acting as a leisure and hospitality space.[86] The plans were officially granted permission on 11 October 2022. The work, involving the demolition and reconstruction of the remaining fabric, will last just under eighteen months and is due to begin in the summer of 2023.[87]
On 27 February 2021 a 2,200 lb (1,000 kg) Second World War bomb was uncovered at a construction site and more than 2,600 people were evacuated.
Homelessness
Exeter has the 6th highest number of rough sleepers on a single night of all local authorities in England (as of the autumn of 2020),[91] marking a 19% increase from 2019.[91] In 2014, Exeter had "...the unenviable status of having the highest per capita rate of rough sleeping outside of London".[92] During the COVID-19 pandemic, 102 people in Exeter rough sleeping, or at risk of rough sleeping were accommodated as part of the government's 'Everybody In' directive.[93][94] In Exeter City Council's recent 'Rough Sleeping Delivery Plan', a total of £3,351,347 was allocated for the purpose of reducing rough sleeping for the 2020–2021 period.[95] The government's Next Steps Accommodation Programme also provided Exeter City Council with £440,000 to help reduce the number of rough sleepers on Exeter's streets.[96] The council has also focussed its efforts on reducing rough sleeping in the long term, with a "£3 million Capital programme bid [for] the creation of 31 units of new long term move-on accommodation with dedicated support to be delivered before 31 March 2021".[94]
Governance
Parliamentary
Exeter is in two parliamentary constituencies, the majority of the city is in the Exeter constituency but two wards (St Loyes and Topsham) are in East Devon. Since World War II until recently, Exeter itself was relatively marginal, with its Member of Parliament usually drawn from the governing party. Nowadays the Exeter seat is increasingly becoming a Labour stronghold. The Exeter MP is Ben Bradshaw, with the Youth MP being Georgia Howell, and Simon Jupp represents East Devon. Prior to Brexit in 2020, Exeter was part of the South West England European constituency, which elected 6 MEPs.
Further to the completion of the 2023 Periodic Review of Westminster constituencies, Exmouth and Exeter East will first be contested at the next general election.[97]
Local Government
Exeter's
From Saxon times, it was in the
Public services
Policing in Exeter is provided by the
The
The Royal Devon University Healthcare NHS Foundation Trust has a large hospital located to the south-east of the city centre. Ambulance services in Exeter are provided by South Western Ambulance Service NHS Trust. The West Trust Divisional HQ and 999 control is in Exeter which provides cover for Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and the Isles of Scilly.
Geography
The city of Exeter was established on the eastern bank of the
Exeter sits predominantly on sandstone and conglomerate geology, although the structure of the surrounding areas is varied.[102] The topography of the ridge which forms the backbone of the city includes a volcanic plug, on which the Rougemont Castle is situated. The cathedral is located on the edge of this ridge and is therefore visible for a considerable distance.
Exeter is 80 mi (130 km) west-southwest of Salisbury, 158 mi (254 km) west-southwest of London, 18 mi (29 km) north of Torquay, 36 mi (58 km) northeast of Plymouth and 74 mi (119 km) east-northeast of Truro.
Climate
Exeter has mild wet winters, punctuated by colder spells that are usually short-lived. Summer is characterised by warm and changeable weather with hot and cooler rainy spells. Temperatures do not vary much throughout the year compared to other locations at this latitude; however, the topography of Exeter can enhance the diurnal range by a couple degrees Celsius, as spots along the sheltered valley of the River Exe such as Quayside, St Thomas and Exwick see colder nights and warmer days, the only exception to this is with foggy and frosty weather in the winter during anticyclonic activity when fog can linger all day and keep daytime temperatures suppressed.[citation needed] Similarly, the same weather patterns can elevate the maximum daily temperatures, The hottest month is July with an average high of 21.7 °C (71.1 °F), and the coldest month is January with an average high of 8.8 °C (47.8 °F). October is the wettest month with 88.9 mm (3.50 in) of rain. The weather station for these reading is at Exeter Airport; adding one degree Celsius to the readings from the maximum daily temperature and deducting a degree from the overnight minima broadly covers the location disparity. It is precisely because of shelter from Dartmoor that Exeter is more frost-prone than areas to the southwest, such as Plymouth. It is also drier and warmer in the summer for the same reason. The highest recorded temperature in Exeter stands at 33.5 °C (92.3 °F)[103] recorded in June 1976, while the lowest recorded temperature is −16.4 °C (2.5 °F)[104] recorded in December 2010.
Climate data for Exeter (EXT), elevation: 27 m (89 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1958–present | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Record high °C (°F) | 16.6 (61.9) |
14.9 (58.8) |
21.0 (69.8) |
23.6 (74.5) |
27.5 (81.5) |
33.5 (92.3) |
32.2 (90.0) |
33.0 (91.4) |
26.9 (80.4) |
26.0 (78.8) |
18.6 (65.5) |
15.9 (60.6) |
33.5 (92.3) |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 9.1 (48.4) |
9.4 (48.9) |
11.3 (52.3) |
13.8 (56.8) |
17.1 (62.8) |
20.0 (68.0) |
21.8 (71.2) |
21.6 (70.9) |
19.3 (66.7) |
15.5 (59.9) |
12.0 (53.6) |
9.4 (48.9) |
15.0 (59.0) |
Daily mean °C (°F) | 5.9 (42.6) |
5.9 (42.6) |
7.4 (45.3) |
9.3 (48.7) |
12.2 (54.0) |
15.2 (59.4) |
17.0 (62.6) |
16.9 (62.4) |
14.6 (58.3) |
11.6 (52.9) |
8.2 (46.8) |
6.0 (42.8) |
10.9 (51.6) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 2.6 (36.7) |
2.4 (36.3) |
3.5 (38.3) |
4.8 (40.6) |
7.3 (45.1) |
10.4 (50.7) |
12.1 (53.8) |
12.1 (53.8) |
9.9 (49.8) |
7.8 (46.0) |
4.4 (39.9) |
2.7 (36.9) |
6.7 (44.1) |
Record low °C (°F) | −15.0 (5.0) |
−9.3 (15.3) |
−9.6 (14.7) |
−4.4 (24.1) |
−1.7 (28.9) |
0.9 (33.6) |
2.1 (35.8) |
2.0 (35.6) |
−1.0 (30.2) |
−3.9 (25.0) |
−6.2 (20.8) |
−16.4 (2.5) |
−16.4 (2.5) |
Average precipitation mm (inches) | 85.6 (3.37) |
65.1 (2.56) |
62.3 (2.45) |
61.4 (2.42) |
51.0 (2.01) |
53.8 (2.12) |
48.2 (1.90) |
64.1 (2.52) |
60.3 (2.37) |
92.5 (3.64) |
95.3 (3.75) |
90.1 (3.55) |
829.2 (32.65) |
Mean monthly sunshine hours | 58.4 | 82.7 | 117.1 | 167.4 | 195.5 | 194.7 | 193.8 | 171.8 | 151.2 | 106.8 | 69.5 | 52.6 | 1,561.6 |
Source 1: Magic seaweed | |||||||||||||
Source 2: KNMI[105] |
Demographics
From the 2011 Census, the
Country of Birth | Immigrants in Exeter (2011 Census) |
---|---|
China | 1,665 |
Poland | 1,296 |
Germany | 710 |
India | 653 |
Ireland | 469 |
South Africa | 438 |
USA | 350 |
France | 310 |
Philippines | 295 |
Australia | 242 |
In 2011, the City of Exeter had a population of 117,773, while its inner urban subdivision had a population of 113,507. The Exeter USD (urban subdivision) does not include the town of Topsham, which while it is administratively part of the city, it is often considered a separate individual settlement as well as the fact its excluded from the city's constituency.
Exeter compared 2011 | Exeter USD | Exeter City |
---|---|---|
White British | 88.1% | 88.3% |
Asian | 4.0% | 3.9% |
Black | 0.6% | 0.5% |
In 2011, 11.9% of the population of the Exeter USD were non-white British, compared with 11.7% for the actual city and surrounding borough of Exeter.
In 2009, Exeter City was 89.1% White British, compared with 88.3% in 2011.[112]
The Exeter Urban Area had a population of 124,079[113] in 2014, compared with 124,328 for the city and borough of Exeter. While the Exeter Metropolitan Area had a population of 467,257 in the same year and includes Exeter along with Teignbridge, Mid Devon and East Devon.[114] Out of all the Devon districts, Exeter receives the largest number of commuters from East Devon, followed by Teignbridge. Most of the city's ethnic minority population live in the central, northwestern and eastern suburbs of the city. Outlying areas such as Pinhoe, Cowick and the expensive suburb of Topsham are all 95% White British as of 2011.
Ethnicity
The ethnicity of the City of Exeter from 1991 to 2021 is below:
Ethnic Group | Year | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1991[115] | 2001[116] | 2011[117] | 2021[118] | |||||
Number | % | Number | % | Number | % | Number | % | |
White: Total | 96,811 | 98.7% | 108,459 | 97.6% | 109,590 | 93.1% | 118,034 | 90.3% |
White: British | – | – | 105,231 | 94.7% | 104,013 | 88.3% | 108,095 | 82.7% |
White: Irish | – | – | 668 | 629 | 875 | 0.7% | ||
White: Gypsy or Irish Traveller
|
– | – | – | – | 93 | 100 | 0.1% | |
White: Roma | 181 | 0.1% | ||||||
White: Other | – | – | 2,560 | 2.3% | 4,855 | 4.1% | 8,783 | 6.7% |
Asian or Asian British : Total
|
663 | 0.7% | 1,107 | 1% | 4,595 | 3.9% | 6,375 | 4.8% |
Asian or Asian British: Indian | 212 | 284 | 946 | 1,588 | 1.2% | |||
Asian or Asian British: Pakistani | 37 | 67 | 164 | 274 | 0.2% | |||
Asian or Asian British: Bangladeshi | 80 | 142 | 227 | 513 | 0.4% | |||
Asian or Asian British: Chinese | 185 | 378 | 1,998 | 2,020 | 1.5% | |||
Asian or Asian British: Other Asian | 149 | 236 | 1,260 | 1,980 | 1.5% | |||
Black or Black British: Total | 202 | 0.3% | 225 | 0.2% | 667 | 0.6% | 1,137 | 0.9% |
Black or Black British: Caribbean | 51 | 62 | 128 | 893 | 0.7% | |||
Black or Black British: African | 76 | 142 | 492 | 137 | 0.1% | |||
Black or Black British: Other Black | 75 | 21 | 47 | 107 | 0.1% | |||
Mixed or British Mixed: Total | – | – | 924 | 1% | 1,938 | 1.6% | 3,308 | 2.6% |
Mixed: White and Black Caribbean | – | – | 179 | 403 | 503 | 0.4% | ||
Mixed: White and Black African | – | – | 108 | 278 | 484 | 0.4% | ||
Mixed: White and Asian | – | – | 350 | 773 | 1305 | 1.0% | ||
Mixed: Other Mixed | – | – | 287 | 484 | 1016 | 0.8% | ||
Other: Total | 449 | 0.5% | 361 | 0.3% | 983 | 0.8% | 1,853 | 1.4% |
Other: Arab | – | – | – | – | 659 | 802 | 0.6% | |
Other: Any other ethnic group | 449 | 0.5% | 361 | 0.3% | 324 | 1,051 | 0.8% | |
Total | 98,125 | 100% | 111,076 | 100% | 117,773 | 100% | 130,707 | 100% |
Religion
Religion | 2001[119] | 2011[120] | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Number | % | Number | % | |
Holds religious beliefs | 78,839 | 70.9 | 67,382 | 57.2 |
Christian | 76,773 | 69.1 | 63,486 | 53.9 |
Buddhist | 375 | 0.3 | 683 | 0.6 |
Hindu | 123 | 0.1 | 372 | 0.3 |
Jewish | 152 | 0.1 | 155 | 0.1 |
Muslim
|
858 | 0.8 | 1,855 | 1.6 |
Sikh | 76 | 0.1 | 160 | 0.1 |
Other religion | 482 | 0.4 | 671 | 0.6 |
(No religion and Religion not stated) | 32,237 | 29.1 | 50,391 | 42.8 |
No religion | 22,719 | 20.5 | 40,862 | 34.7 |
Religion not stated | 9,518 | 8.6 | 9,529 | 8.1 |
Total population | 111,076 | 100.0 | 117,773 | 100.0 |
Economy
The
Around 35,000 people commute into Exeter on a daily basis, from nearby surrounding towns.[121] Exeter provides services, employment and shopping for local residents within the city limits and also from nearby towns in Teignbridge, Mid Devon and East Devon, together sometimes known as the Exeter & Heart of Devon area (EHOD). Exeter therefore provides for the EHOD area population of 457,400.[122]
Exeter has been identified among the top ten most profitable locations for a business to be based.[123] As of 2022[update], 39% of Exeter workers are in professional occupations, much higher than the national average of 26%. However, median pay for full-time workers is below the figure for Great Britain as a whole, though above that for South West England.[124]
The city centre provides substantial shopping facilities. The High Street is mainly devoted to branches of national chains: a NEF survey in 2005 rated Exeter as the worst example of a clone town in the UK, with only a single independent store in the city's High Street, and less diversity (in terms of different categories of shop) than any other town surveyed. In 2010, a similar survey reported the city was still the worst clone town.[125] As of 2019, the last independent store on the high street is closed.[126] Three significant shopping areas that connect to the High Street provide a somewhat more varied menu. Princesshay, a post-war retail area connecting to the south side of the High Street was home to a number of independent stores prior to redevelopment in 2007, but is now also largely occupied by national chains. It is still intended that a number of the new units will be let to local independent stores.[citation needed] The House of Fraser building on the high street has been bought by a local wealth performance management firm, Prydis, who have released their plans to redevelop the building as a three-storey hotel with a rooftop bar and retail shops.[127]
On the other side of the High Street, the partly-undercover Guildhall Shopping Centre houses a mixture of national and more regional shops, and connects to the wholly enclosed Harlequins Centre where smaller businesses predominate. Smaller streets off the High Street such as Gandy Street also offer a range of independent shops.[128]
On 26 June 2004, Exeter was granted
Although Exeter contains a number of tourist attractions, the city is not dominated by tourism, with only 7% of employment dependent on tourism compared with 13% for Devon as a whole (2005 figures).[130]
There are also plans to build on land in the Teignbridge and East Devon areas, which border Exeter's boundaries, as part of the "Exeter Growth Point" strategy. This includes the new town of Cranbrook, located about five mi (eight km) east of the city in East Devon, where construction began in 2011 and which is now home to several thousand residents.[131][132][133]
Landmarks
Among the notable buildings in Exeter are:
Religious buildings
- The Anglican theologian, who was born in Exeter, has a prominent place in the Cathedral Close.
- St Nicholas Priory in Mint Lane, the remains of a monastery, later used as a private house and now a museum owned by the city council. The priory was founded in medieval times and was home to Benedictine monks for over 400 years, until it was closed and partly demolished by Henry VIII. The remaining buildings were then sold off in 1602 and became the home of the locally wealthy Hurst family. The property has been fully renovated by Exeter City Council, and the small garden area features Tudor plants and herbs[134]
- A number of medieval churches including St Mary Steps which has an elaborate clock.
- The Exeter Synagogue is the third oldest synagogue in Britain, completed in 1763.
- St Thomas' Church, originally built in the 13th century just outside the city walls. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 17th century; grade I listed.[135]
Secular buildings and features
- The ruins of Rougemont Castle; later parts of the castle were still in use by the Crown Court and the County Court until 2004 when the new Exeter Law Courts opened. A plaque near the surviving medieval gatehouse recalls the fate of Alice Molland, tried for witchcraft at Exeter in 1685, and reputedly the last person in England to have been executed for that crime; others convicted of witchcraft had been hanged in Exeter in 1581, 1610, and 1682.[136][137]
- The Guildhall, which has medieval foundations and has been claimed to be the oldest municipal building in England still in use.[138]
- Mol's Coffee House, a historic building in the Cathedral Close.
- Tuckers' Hall, a 15th-century guild hall for the incorporation of Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen, that is still in use today.
- The Custom House in the Quay area, which is the oldest brick building surviving in the city.
- "Tudorbuilding, earned its name in 1961 when it was moved from its original location on the corner of Edmund Street in order for a new road to be built in its place. Weighing more than twenty-one tonnes, it was strapped together and slowly moved a few inches at a time to its present-day position.
- Parliament Street in the city centre is one of the narrowest streets in the world.
- The Butts Ferry, an ancient cable ferry across the River Exe.
- Wyvern Barracks, a former artillery barracks, dates back to about 1800.[139]
- Higher Barracks, a former cavalry barracks, dates back to 1794.[140]
- The Sir Edwin Lutyens and unveiled in 1922 by Edward, Prince of Wales.[141]
Northernhay Gardens
Located just outside the castle, Northernhay Gardens is the oldest public open space in England, being originally laid out in 1612 as a pleasure walk for Exeter residents.
Transport
Car
The M5 motorway to Bristol and Exeter starts at Birmingham, and connects at Bristol with the M4 to London and South Wales. The older A30 road provides a more direct route to London via the A303 and M3. The M5 is the modern lowest bridging point of the River Exe. Going westwards, the A38 connects Exeter to Plymouth and south east Cornwall, whilst the A30 continues via Okehampton to Cornwall and ends at Penzance. The cities of Bristol, Plymouth, Bath, Salisbury and Truro can all be reached within two hours.
Travel by car in the city is often difficult with regular jams centred on the Exe Bridges area. Historically, the bridges were a significant bottleneck for holiday traffic heading to southwest England, leading to the construction of the first bypass in the mid-1930s over
Bus
Exeter's main operator of local buses is
Railway
Exeter is a major rail hub in the South West and is linked to most branch lines in Devon, including to Paignton, Exmouth, Barnstaple and Okehampton. This makes it possible to reach most stations in Devon directly from Exeter St Davids.
Exeter is served by three main railway stations.
There are two main line railway routes from Exeter to London, the faster
The
Air
Canal
The
Originally three ft (0.9 m) deep and 16 ft (5 m) wide, the canal ran two mi (three km) from the confluence of the Matford Brook, just above Bridge Road in
Education
The
For about 30 years the city of Exeter operated a
The city has a number of independent schools, including Exeter School, Exeter Cathedral School, The Maynard School and St Wilfrid's School.
There are specialist schools for pupils with sensory needs, including Exeter Royal Academy for Deaf Education, and the West of England School for the Partially Sighted.
The Atkinson Unit is a secure specialist residential and educational complex for children in care or
Religion
Numerous churches, and other religious buildings, are present in Exeter. A majority belong to differing Christian denominations, including a Church of England cathedral. The medieval city of Exeter had nearly 70 churches, chapels, monasteries and almshouses.[151]
Exeter Cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of Exeter. The erection of the present building was completed in approximately 1400, and possesses the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England, as well as other noticeable characteristics. A collective of Anglican churches form the Exeter Deanery.
There are two Catholic Churches: the Sacred Heart and the Blessed Sacrament, with congregations reflecting the nature of older and more recent immigration.
Exeter Synagogue, located within a near proximity to Mary Arches Street, was completely erected in 1763.
Exeter's mosque and Islamic centre are located on York Road. The first mosque was opened in 1977.[152] The purpose-built mosque opened in 2011.
At the
Anglican churches
The aforementioned collective of Anglican churches include St David's Church, located near to St David's Station. The church was envisaged by
St Edmund-on-the-Bridge was built on the Exe Bridge c. 1230–40. Two arches of the bridge remain under the undercroft though the church was rebuilt in the Perpendicular style in 1835, using the old materials.
St Martin's is in the
St Sidwell's church is by W. Burgess, 1812, in the Perpendicular style.
Sport
Rugby union
The city's professional
The city also has two other clubs: Wessex Rugby Club, which is located in Exwick, and Exeter Saracens Rugby Club,[160] which is located in Whipton.
Football
Other sports
Exeter Cricket Club administer three teams that play in the Devon Cricket League. The first of which plays in the Premier Division at first XI level and the next plays at second XI level. The club play their home games at County Ground where they have remained for over 180 years.
Exeter Rowing Club competes both locally and nationally, and has a recorded history originating in the early 19th century.[161] The City of Exeter Rowing Regatta is run annually in July, and is the eldest and largest regatta in the South West, with racing first recorded on the river in the 1860s.[162]
Exeter's speedway team, Exeter Falcons, was established in 1929 and were located at the County Ground until its permanent closure in 2005. The team was revived in 2015, but are currently based in Plymouth. Speedway was also staged briefly at tracks in Alphington and Peamore after the Second World War.
Culture
Literature
The
Another famous manuscript is the Liber Exoniensis or Exon Domesday, a composite land and tax register of 1086. The piece contains a variety of administrative materials concerning the counties of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire. This document is also conserved in Exeter Cathedral.
In 2019, the city became a UNESCO City of Literature.[165]
Theatre
Exeter has several theatres. The
The Barnfield Theatre was originally constructed as Barnfield Hall by Exeter Literary Society towards the end of the 19th century and converted to a theatre in 1972.[167]
The Cygnet Theatre in Friars Walk is the home of the Cygnet Training Theatre and is a member of the Conference of Drama Schools.[168]
Additionally, more innovative and contemporary performances, theatrical productions and dance pieces are programmed the Exeter Corn Exchange in Market Street.[169]
Music
The largest orchestra based in Exeter is the EMG Symphony Orchestra.[170]
Another major rock band, Muse, have ties to Exeter. The band's members were all born and raised in nearby Teignmouth, and some of the band's earliest performances were at Exeter's 220-capacity Cavern Club in the early 1990s. They have since performed 33 times at the venue, most recently in 2022, when they débuted new material from their upcoming ninth studio album, Will of the People (2022).[175]
The Cavern Club on Queen Street has become one of Exeter's primary live music venues since its opening in 1991, hosting artists including Coldplay, Muse, Biffy Clyro, George Ezra, The 1975, Bastille and Kaiser Chiefs.[176] It remains a popular venue for local artists, as well as one of the city's main student nightclubs.
The University's Great Hall has emerged as a popular venue for live concerts in recent years, including English pop band
Museums and galleries
- The Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Queen Street is Exeter's predominant museum. The museum maintains its own collections of regional, national and international importance. Recently, the museum underwent an extensive refurbishment. It reopened on 14 December 2011, and was subsequently awarded the National Art Fund Prize – UK Museum of the Year 2012.[182] The Museum also runs St Nicholas Priory in Mint Lane, near Fore Street.
- Additionally, the University of Exeter has an extensive fine art collection and an assortment of exhibition spaces across its Streatham campus. Showing a vibrant programme of exhibitions, performances, films and visual arts. The sculpture collection contains works by artists including Barbara Hepworth, Peter Thursby, Geoffrey Clark and Elaine M. Goodwin. It can be located using the Sculpture Trail.
- Exeter Phoenix is one of South West England's leading contemporary arts venues. The venue occupies the former university site in Gandy Street and programmes international, national and outstanding regional artists.
- Until its closure in 2017, Spacex (art gallery), was a contemporary arts organisation, that programmed exhibitions of contemporary art and promoted artist-led projects, events and research.
Newspapers
- Express and Echo, published weekly on Thursdays.
- Exeter Flying Post, published weekly. Originally discontinued in 1917, but was revived in 1976 as an alternative community magazine. The last issue was in 2012.
- The Western Morning News, a Plymouth printed daily regional paper.
- Exeposé, the university's student newspaper, printed fortnightly.
Radio
utilising their own frequencies. Both Heart West and BBC Radio Devon broadcast from the St Thomas transmitter. AM radio is broadcast from Pearce's Hill located at J31 of the M5.Other radio stations include
Additionally, Exeter University has a well established student station, Xpression FM, which broadcasts on 87.7 FM using two low-powered transmitters, although it can be heard over much of the north of the city.
The local
Television
Both
Twin towns
Exeter is
Freedom of the City
The following people and military units have received the Freedom of the City of Exeter.
Individuals
- Admiral Horatio Nelson, 1st Viscount Nelson: 15 January 1801.[186]
- Rob Baxter: 25 July 2017.[187]
- Gareth Steenson: 7 October 2021.[188]
- Richard Jacobs: 1 December 2021.[189]
- Philip Bostock: 18 July 2022.[190]
Military units
- The Royal Marines: April 1977.
- 243 (The Wessex) Field Hospital (V): July 2002.
- The Rifles (formerly The Devonshire and Dorset Regiment): June 2007.
- The Coldstream Guards: July 2011.[191]
- RAF Brize Norton: 21 October 2013.[192]
- HMS Defender, RN: March 2014.
Notable people
See also
- Exeter (HM Prison)
- Henry Phillpotts
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- ^ "Coldstream Guards get freedom of Devon city, Exeter". BBC News. 6 July 2011. Archived from the original on 25 September 2015.
- ^ "City Council to bestow the Freedom of the City on RAF Brize Norton". The Exeter Daily. 15 October 2013. Retrieved 9 December 2020.
- ^ "Exeter City Council". Exeter City Council website. Archived from the original on 13 March 2012. Retrieved 21 August 2015.
- ^ "Honours and twinning". Exeter City Council. Retrieved 17 October 2021.
Sources and further reading
- Gray, Todd (2000). Exeter: The Traveller's Tales. Exeter: The Mint Press. ISBN 1-903356-00-8.
- Higham, Robert (2008). Making Anglo-Saxon Devon. Exeter: The Mint Press. ISBN 978-1-903356-57-9.
- ISBN 1-86077-303-6.
- Neville, Julia (2010). Exeter and the Trams 1882–1931. Exeter Civic Society. ISBN 978-0-9544343-1-1.
- Sellman, R.R. (1985). Aspects of Devon History (New ed.). Exeter: Devon Books. ISBN 0-86114-756-1.
- Sharp, Thomas(1946). Exeter Phoenix: A Plan for Rebuilding. London: The Architectural Press.
- ISBN 978-0-85989-727-3.
- Stoyle, Mark (1996). From Deliverance to Destruction: Rebellion and Civil War in an English City. Exeter: University of Exeter Press. ISBN 978-0-85989-478-4.
- Stoyle, Mark (2014). Water in the City: The Aqueducts and Underground Passages of Exeter. Exeter: University of Exeter Press. ISBN 978-0-85989-877-5.
External links
- Exeter City Council
- History of Exeter Archived 3 September 2014 at the Wayback Machine from White's Devonshire Directory, 1850
- Exeter at Curlie
- Exeter in the Domesday Book