Costume jewelry
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Costume or fashion jewelry includes a range of
Terminology
It is also known as artificial jewellery, imitation jewellery, imitated jewelry, trinkets, fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery.
Etymology
The term costume jewelry dates back to the early 20th century. It reflects the use of the word "costume" to refer to what is now called an "outfit".
Components
Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones, such as
During the World War II era, sterling silver was often incorporated into costume jewelry designs primarily because:
- The components used for base metal were needed for wartime production (i.e., military applications), and a ban was placed on their use in the private sector.
- Base metal was originally popular because it could approximate platinum's color, sterling silver fulfilled the same function.
This resulted in a number of years during which sterling silver costume jewelry was produced and some can still be found in today's vintage jewelry marketplace.
Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High-end
Historical expression
Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.
Art Deco period (1920–1930s)
The Art Deco movement was an attempt to combine the harshness of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. The movement died with the onset of the Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II.[3]
According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Deco period were:[4]
- Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric and symmetrical theme
- Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate accessory items such as cigarette cases and holders
Retro period (1935 to 1950)
In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus mass production dilemma. Natural materials merged with plastics. The retro period primarily included American-made jewelry, which had a distinctly American look. With the war in Europe, many European jewelry firms were forced to shut down. Many European designers emigrated to the U.S. since the economy was recovering.
According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Retro period were:[4]
- Glamour, elegance, and sophistication
- Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair
- Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas
- Bakelite and other plastic jewelry
Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)
In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs became more traditional and understated. The big, bold styles of the Retro period went out of style and were replaced by the more tailored styles of the 1950s and 1960s.[1]
According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Art Modern period were:[4]
- Bold, lavish jewelry
- Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, citrine and topaz
- Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry
- Rhinestones
With the advent of the Mod period came "Body Jewelry". Carl Schimel of Kim Craftsmen Jewelry was at the forefront of this style.[5] While Kim Craftsmen closed in the early 1990s, many collectors still forage for their items at antique shows and flea markets.[6][7]
General history
Costume jewelry has been part of the culture for almost 300 years. During the 18th century, jewelers began making pieces with inexpensive glass. In the 19th century, costume jewelry made of semi-precious material came into the market. Jewels made of semi-precious material were more affordable, and this affordability gave common people the chance to own costume jewelry.[4]
But the real golden era for costume jewelry began in the middle of the 20th century. The new
As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in all social stations, even the working-class woman, could own a small piece of costume jewelry. The average town and countrywoman could acquire and wear a considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and stylish.[4]
Costume jewelry was also made popular by various designers in the mid-20th century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari,
A significant factor in the popularization of costume jewelry was Hollywood movies. The leading female stars of the 1940s and 1950s often wore and then endorsed the pieces produced by a range of designers. If you admired a necklace worn by
Coco Chanel greatly popularized the use of faux jewelry in her years as a fashion designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls.
In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', that is pieces that have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx. However, there is also demand for good quality 'unsigned' pieces, especially if they are of an unusual design.[10]
Business and industry
Costume jewelry is considered a discrete category of
As part of the
There is a rise in demand for artificial or imitation jewelry by 85% due to the increase in gold prices, according to a 2011 report.[11]
See also
References
- ^ a b c d e Baker, Lillian. Fifty Years of Collectable Fashion Jewelry. Paducah: Collector Books, 1986.
- ^ "Adorning Fashion: The History of Costume Jewellery to Modern Times". Jewelry Connoisseur. 2020-07-26. Retrieved 2021-05-20.
- ^ "The Art Deco Movement: Technology and Geometry Combined with Modern Art". EMPTYEASEL. 21 August 2007. Retrieved 15 November 2021.
- ^ a b c d e Schiffer, Nancy. The Best of Costume Jewelry. Atglen: Schiffer Publishing, 1999.
- ^ See archived article from The Milwaukee Sentinel – Jul 31, 1969: Mod Bods And Chains Archived December 9, 2015, at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ The Milwaukee Sentinel – Jul 31, 1969. p. 4.
- ^ Feith, Molly. "Kim Craftsmen – A Tale of Two Brothers." Costume Jewelry Collectors International. Spring 2010 – Vol. 1, Issue 1.
- ^ Felth, Molly. "Kim Craftsmen – A Tale of Two Brothers." CJCI Magazine, Summer 2010 – Vol. 1, Issue 2.
- ISBN 978-1-57965-292-0.
- ISBN 1-4053-1812-0.
- ^ "High gold prices drive up imitation jewellery demand by 85%: Assocham". The Economic Times. 20 November 2012. Retrieved 25 February 2020.