Fiordland

Coordinates: 45°24′S 167°12′E / 45.4°S 167.2°E / -45.4; 167.2
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Fiordland's landscape is characterised by deep fiords along the coast...
...and U-shaped valleys carved by glaciers

Fiordland (

National Park
.

Due to the often steep terrain and high amount of rainfall supporting dense vegetation, the interior of the Fiordland region is largely inaccessible. As a result, Fiordland was never subjected to notable logging operations, and even attempts at whaling, seal hunting, and mining were on a small scale and short-lived, partly also because of the challenging weather.[3] Today, Fiordland contains by far the greatest extent of unmodified vegetation in New Zealand and significant populations of endemic plants and threatened animals, in some cases the only remaining wild populations.

Fiordland features a

Milford Sound / Piopiotahi
is the most famous and the only one accessible by road. Doubtful Sound / Patea, which is much larger, is also a tourist destination, but is less accessible as it requires both a boat trip over Lake Manapouri and bus transfer over Wilmot Pass.

Also situated within Fiordland are Browne Falls and Sutherland Falls, which rank among the tallest waterfalls in the world, and New Zealand's three deepest lakes, Lake Hauroko, Lake Manapouri, and Lake Te Anau. Several other large lakes lie nearby, and Fiordland and the surrounding parts of Southland and Otago Regions are often referred to as the Southern Lakes. Only a handful of Fiordland's lakes are accessible by road - Lake Poteriteri is the largest lake in New Zealand with no road access. Many of the region's lakes are not even accessible via tramping tracks.

This part of New Zealand, especially to the west of the mountain divide of the Southern Alps, has a very wet climate with annual average of 200 rainy days and annual rainfall varying from 1,200 millimetres (47 in) in Te Anau to 8,000 millimetres (310 in) in Milford Sound.[4][5] The prevailing westerly winds blow moist air from the Tasman Sea onto the mountains, resulting in high amounts of precipitation as the air rises and cools down.

History

Fiordland has never had any significant permanent population.

Milford Sound / Piopiotahi, his greatest achievement.[7][8]

The name Te Rua-o-te-Moko ("The Pit of Tattooing") is a reference to the visit of the Tākitimu migratory waka to the area. Traditional histories recall the captain of the waka, Tamatea, lost his tattooing ink in Taiari / Chalky Inlet. After the Tākitimu was wrecked at Te Waewae Bay, the crew decided to walk overland to the north of the South Island. While stopping at Te Anau, Tamatea decided to dig a pit where wood could be burnt to create soot for tattoo ink.[8][2][9] Over time, the name grew to refer to the wider Fiordland area.[9]

In 1770, Captain

Tamatea / Dusky Sound for five weeks in 1773. The expeditions' maps and descriptions of the area attracted whalers and seal hunters, but only in the mid-19th century did surveyors and prospectors begin exploring Fiordland's interior.[10]

Between 1897 and 1908, two attempts at establishing a mining operation in the remote area of Rakituma / Preservation Inlet failed, and by 1914 the isolated small settlement of Cromartie (or Cromarty) there had been abandoned.[3][11]

The area was administered as Fiord County from 1876 until it was absorbed into neighbouring Wallace County in 1981. Since 1989, it has formed part of Southland District and of the wider Southland Region.

Boundaries

Fraser Beach on the eastern shore of Lake Manapouri

There are currently varying definitions for the boundary of the Fiordland region. The eastern boundary of Fiordland according to

Te Hāpua / Sutherland Sound, and Hāwea / Bligh Sound
).

The much more widespread definition of "Fiordland" has an eastern boundary that roughly follows that of the Fiordland National Park for all but the northernmost end. This area contains all the fiords as well as the

Big Bay, which lies to the north outside of the Fiordland National Park, but still belongs to the Southland Region. Tourism organisations[13] and the Department of Conservation[14][15] use this definition of the Fiordland region. New Zealanders generally regard the towns of Te Anau and Manapouri as part of the Fiordland region, even though they lie outside of the boundary of the national park.[16][10]

Geography

Mountains reach over 2500m in the northern parts of Fiordland

In geographical terms, the Fiordland region contains the huge mountainous regions west of the line from Te Waewae Bay to Monowai to Te Anau, and includes the valleys of the Eglinton River and Hollyford River / Whakatipu Kā Tuka. The area is almost identical to that of the Fiordland National Park, and is marked by U-shaped valleys and fiords along the coast and steep mountains with foundations of hard rocks like gneiss, schist, granite and diorite, with the softer rock having been carved out by multiple glaciations. Fiordland contains New Zealand's oldest known plutonic (igneous) rocks[17] and is dominated by the southernmost extent of the Southern Alps, as the peaks reduce in height from north to south.

Snow regularly falls to low altitudes in winter

The tallest mountain in the Fiordland region is Mount Tūtoko at 2,723 metres (8,934 ft),[18] one of several peaks over 2,000 metres in the Darran Mountains. Southeast of this area, there are only a handful of peaks reaching 2,000 metres, however due to the rainy weather with cold winters and lack of hot summer temperatures, even these mountains contain glaciers and peaks with permanent snow cover. The southernmost glacier is situated on Caroline Peak,[19] which only reaches 1,704 metres (5,591 ft),[20] and in the southwest of Fiordland the altitude for permanent snowfields lowers to under 1,500 metres (4,900 ft).[21]

The past glaciation's deep carving out of the landscape has also resulted in fiord-like arms in Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau, and on the coast managed to cause several large chunks of the mainland becoming cut off. The largest of these uninhabited offshore islands are

Resolution Island and Secretary Island
, and are important conservation sites, particularly as sanctuaries for endangered native birds.

Constituent fiords

Milford Sound / Piopiotahi, the most famous tourist destination in Fiordland, and the only fiord accessible by road[22]

Twelve fiords, some stretching up to 40 kilometres (25 mi) inland, and two inlets leading to three more fiords, extend along the coast from Piopiotahi in the north to Rakituma / Preservation Inlet in the south. In general, the fiords become wider from north to south as the height of the mountains decreases. The outlets of the southernmost fiords have a character more akin to inlets, with only the inner arms such as Long Sound resembling fiords.

A further sound,

Kaikiekie / Bradshaw Sound, is basically an extension of Thompson and Doubtful Sounds after their junction at the eastern end of Secretary Island
.

Ecology

The area has been categorised as the Fiordland temperate forests

Blechnum discolor), areas of scrubby herbs above the treeline, patches of bog next to mountain streams and finally an area of rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum)-dominated dunes in the Waitutu area on the south coast.[24] Despite a latitude in the mid-40s, the treeline is generally below 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) because of the cool summers and the influence of the Southern Ocean on the climate.[25]

The area is home to threatened native bird species, such as the flightless

takahē and kiwi, blue duck (whio), and yellowhead (mōhua). The takahē was presumed to have been extinct for 50 years before a small remaining population was discovered in Fiordland's Murchison Mountains in 1948. Since then, that area has been managed by the Department of Conservation, trapping stoats and controlling deer, helping takahē numbers in the area to increase to over 200 and remain at that level.[26]

There are also a high number of insects and one indigenous reptile, the Fiordland skink (Oligosoma acrinasum).[27] There are around 300 insect species endemic to the Fiordland region, many of them sizeable, such as weta, large caddis, and giant weevils, and some of them unusual, such as egg-laying worms, alpine cicadas, and brightly coloured alpine moths.[28] There are six species of native sandflies (blackfly, Simuliidae) with one endemic to Fiordland.[29]

Most of the area falls under the protection of the Fiordland National Park, part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Site. Fiordland National Park has an area of 12,600 square kilometres,[30] making it the largest national park in New Zealand and one of the larger parks in the world, containing many tourist attractions, such as Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound and the Milford Track. The main threat to natural habitats is from introduced species, especially red deer, but these are now being hunted out of the area, and furthermore, the park includes a number of small offshore islands which are free from introduced species and are designated Specially Protected Areas.

Marine reserves

Ten marine reserves have been established in Fiordland to protect a wide variety of species and habitats.[31]

The original two reserves were established at the request of the New Zealand Federation of Commercial Fishermen in 1993:[32]

An additional eight reserves were established on the recommendation of Fiordland Marine Guardians in 2005:[33]

Demographics and economy

Tour boats at Milford Sound / Piopiotahi

The Fiordland statistical area covers 12,064.68 km2 (4,658.20 sq mi)[34] and had an estimated population of 100 as of June 2023,[35] with a population density of 0.008 people per km2. Almost the entire population lives at Milford Sound (village).

Historical population
YearPop.±% p.a.
2006144—    
2013123−2.23%
2018111−2.03%
Source: [36]

Fiordland had a population of 111 at the

2006 census
. There were 3 households, comprising 54 males and 60 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.9 males per female. The median age was 28.2 years (compared with 37.4 years nationally), with 3 people (2.7%) aged under 15 years, 69 (62.2%) aged 15 to 29, 39 (35.1%) aged 30 to 64, and 3 (2.7%) aged 65 or older.

Ethnicities were 73.0% European/Pākehā, 8.1% Māori, 24.3% Asian, and 2.7% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity.

The percentage of people born overseas was 62.2, compared with 27.1% nationally.

Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 67.6% had no religion, 21.6% were Christian, 2.7% were Muslim and 5.4% had other religions.

Of those at least 15 years old, 27 (25.0%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 9 (8.3%) people had no formal qualifications. The median income was $34,000, compared with $31,800 nationally. 3 people (2.8%) earned over $70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15 was that 102 (94.4%) people were employed full-time, and 3 (2.8%) were part-time.[36]

Apart from the areas around the townships of

State Highway 94
, also referred to as Milford Road, connecting Te Anau with Milford Sound.

Blanket Bay Hotel, not an actual hotel, may be the westernmost inhabited locality of New Zealand. The fishermen's refuelling and supply depot with a small jetty and helipad is located on a small island at the head of Doubtful Sound / Patea.[37][38]

Except for

Milford Sound / Piopiotahi, though walking in the more accessible eastern parts of the alps is a popular activity. Nonetheless, the remoteness of the region limits even tourism, and after short visits to the major sites, most tourists return to other areas, such as Queenstown
or Invercargill.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Fiordland's Natural History". Visit Fiordland. Southland Regional Development Agency. Retrieved 6 October 2023.
  2. ^
    New Zealand Herald
    .
  3. ^ a b "Historic Tarawera Silver Mine and Smelter: Historic sites in Fiordland National Park". Department of Conservation. Retrieved 30 September 2017.
  4. ^ "Fiordland a World Heritage area". Deep Cove Charters.
  5. ^ "Fiordland & Stewart Island/Rakiura" (PDF). Lonely Planet.
  6. ^ "Fiordland's History - Destination Fiordland". Destination Fiordland. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  7. ^ Tamatea/Dusky Sound Conservation and Restoration Plan. Department of Conservation. 2016. p. 4.
  8. ^ .
  9. ^ a b Beattie, J. H. Maori Lore of Lake, Alp and Fiord: Folk Lore, Fairy Tales, Traditions and Place-names of the Scenic Wonderland of the South Island. Dunedin, New Zealand: Otago Daily Times and Witness Newspapers Company Limited. p. 129.
  10. ^ a b "Fiordland: An introduction - Tourism New Zealand Media". Tourism New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  11. ^ Walrond, Carl (12 June 2006). "Gold and gold mining - Other goldfields". Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Retrieved 9 July 2020. Payable alluvial gold was dug from Coal Island in Preservation Inlet, Fiordland, in the 1880s. In the 1890s two small towns, Cromarty and Te Oneroa, were cut out of the bush as quartz reefs were found and hard-rock mines were used to excavate them. But the gold did not last, and by 1904 few miners remained.
  12. ^ "Boundary Map of Fiordland". Statistics New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  13. ^ "RTONZ - Regional Tourism Organisations New Zealand - RTO Location Map". Regional Tourism Organisations New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  14. ^ "Fiordland: Places to go". Department of Conservation. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  15. ^ "Big Bay Hut: Fiordland Region". Department of Conservation. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  16. ^ "Fiordland - Destination Fiordland". Destination Fiordland. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  17. ^ "Geological Map of Fiordland". GNS Science. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  18. ^ "Mount Tutoko, Southland – NZ Topo Map". NZ Topo Map. Land Information New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  19. ^ "Glaciers and glaciation". Te Ara: The Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  20. ^ "Caroline Peak, Southland – NZ Topo Map". NZ Topo Map. Land Information New Zealand. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  21. ^ "Geological Factors in Fiordland Ecology" (PDF). N.Z. Geological Survey, Dunedin. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  22. ^ "Milford Sound - Destination Fiordland". Destination Fiordland. Retrieved 29 July 2017.
  23. ^ "Proposal considered by the Board on 20 April 2021 for: Te Korowhakaunu / Canaris Sound, or Te Korowhakaunu / Kanaris Sound, or Te Korowhakaunu / Kanáris Sound" (PDF). Land Information New Zealand. Retrieved 5 January 2022.
  24. ^ C. Michael Hogan. 2009. Crown Fern: Blechnum discolor, Globaltwitcher.com, ed. N. Stromberg Archived February 13, 2012, at the Wayback Machine
  25. ^ "Fiordland National Park Management Plan" (PDF). Department of Conservation. June 2007. p. 18. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  26. ^ "Murchison Mountains: Where takahe live". Department of Conservation. Retrieved 2 January 2017.
  27. ^ "Fiordland temperate forests". Terrestrial Ecoregions. World Wildlife Fund.
  28. ^ "3. Southland Region - Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand". Te Ara: The Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Retrieved 29 September 2017.
  29. S2CID 208600157
    .
  30. ^ "Fiordland National Park Management Plan" (PDF). Department of Conservation. June 2007. p. 15. Retrieved 27 September 2017.
  31. ^ "Fiordland marine reserves". doc.govt.nz. Department of Conservation.
  32. National Geographic Magazine. Archived from the original
    on 27 June 2008.
  33. ^ "Hawea (Clio Rocks) Marine Reserve". doc.govt.nz. Department of Conservation.
  34. ^ "ArcGIS Web Application". statsnz.maps.arcgis.com. Retrieved 27 October 2023.
  35. ^ "Population estimate tables - NZ.Stat". Statistics New Zealand. Retrieved 25 October 2023.
  36. ^ a b "Statistical area 1 dataset for 2018 Census". Statistics New Zealand. March 2020. Fiordland (357000). 2018 Census place summary: Fiordland
  37. ^ Blanket Bay Hotel on satellite photo (from Wikimapia website. Accessed 2017-09-14.)
  38. .
  39. ^ Milford Sound Transport - Issues and Options (GHD Ltd for Venture Southland, 2005)

External links

45°24′S 167°12′E / 45.4°S 167.2°E / -45.4; 167.2