Fulham
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Fulham | |
---|---|
Fulham Palace, the Grade I listed former residence of the Bishop of London | |
Location within Greater London | |
Population | 87,161 (2011)[1] |
OS grid reference | TQ245765 |
• Charing Cross | 3.6 mi (5.8 km) NE |
Ceremonial county | Greater London |
Region | |
Country | England |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | LONDON |
Postcode district | SW6, W14, W6 |
Dialling code | 020 |
Police | Metropolitan |
Fire | London |
Ambulance | London |
UK Parliament | |
Fulham ( on the far side of the river.
First recorded by name in 691, Fulham was a manor and ancient parish which originally included Hammersmith. Between 1900 and 1965, it was the Metropolitan Borough of Fulham, before its merger with the Metropolitan Borough of Hammersmith created the London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham (known as the London Borough of Hammersmith from 1965 to 1979). The district is split between the western and south-western postal areas.
Fulham has a history of industry and enterprise dating back to the 15th century, with pottery, tapestry-weaving, paper-making and brewing in the 17th and 18th centuries in present-day Fulham High Street, and later involvement in the automotive industry, early aviation, food production, and laundries.[4] In the 19th century there was glass-blowing and this resurged in the 21st century with the Aronson-Noon studio and the former Zest gallery in Rickett Street. Lillie Bridge Depot, a railway engineering depot opened in 1872, is associated with the building and extension of the London Underground, the electrification of Tube lines from the nearby Lots Road Power Station, and for well over a century has been the maintenance hub for rolling stock and track.[5][6]
Two Premier League football clubs,
History
The word Fulham originates from Old English, with Fulla being a personal name, and hamm being land hemmed in by water or marsh, or a river-meadow. So Fulla's hemmed-in land.[13] It is spelled Fuleham in the 1066 Domesday Book.[14]
In recent years, there has been a great revival of interest in Fulham's earliest history, largely due to the Fulham Archaeological Rescue Group. This has carried out a number of digs, particularly in the vicinity of Fulham Palace, which show that approximately 5,000 years ago Neolithic people were living by the riverside and in other parts of the area.[citation needed] Excavations have also revealed Roman settlements during the third and fourth centuries AD.[citation needed]
Manor and Parish of Fulham
The manor (landholding) of Fulham was granted to Bishop
The first written record of a church in Fulham dates from 1154, with the first known parish priest of All Saints Church, Fulham appointed in 1242. All Saints Church was enlarged in 1881 by Sir Arthur Blomfield.[16]
Hammersmith was part of the
The parish boundary with Chelsea and Kensington was formed by the now culverted
Early history
In 879
In 1642,
Margravine Road recalls the existence of Brandenburg House, a riverside mansion built by
The extract below of
19th century transport and power plays
The 19th century roused Walham Green village, and the surrounding hamlets that made up the parish of Fulham, from their rural slumber and market gardens with the advent first of power production and then more hesitant transport development.[20] This was accompanied by accelerating urbanisation, as in other centres in the county of Middlesex, which encouraged trade skills among the growing population.
In 1824 the
Meanwhile, another group of local landowners, led by
It meant that the area around Lillie Bridge was to make a lasting, if largely unsung, contribution for well over a century to the development and maintenance of public transport in London and beyond. Next to the Lillie Bridge engineering Depot, the Midland Railway established its own coal and goods yard.[citation needed]
In 1907 the engineering HQ of the
With the growth of 19th-century transport links into East Fulham and its sporting venues by '
The last farm to function in Fulham was Crabtree Farm, which closed at the beginning of the 20th century. A principal recorder of all these changes was a local man, Charles James Féret (1854-1921), who conducted research over a period of decades before publishing his three volume history of Fulham in 1900.[27][28]
Art and Craft
Other artists who settled along the
The Art Bronze Foundry, founded by Charles Gaskin in 1922 still operates in Michael Road, off the New King's Road, a short distance from Eel Brook Common. It has produced works by Henry Moore, Elisabeth Frink, Barbara Hepworth and Jacob Epstein among others. Its work may be seen in public spaces all over the world.[32]
20th century
In 1926, the Church of England established the office of Bishop of Fulham as a suffragan to the Bishop of London.[citation needed]
Fulham remained a predominantly working-class area for the first half of the 20th century, with genteel pockets at North End, along the top of Lillie and New King's roads, especially around
With rapid demographic changes there was poverty, as noted by Charles Dickens (1812-1870) and Charles Booth (1840-1916). Fulham had its poorhouses, and attracted several benefactors, including: the Samuel Lewis (financier) Housing Trust, the Peabody Trust and the Sir Oswald Stoll Foundation to provide low-cost housing.[33]
The
Aside from the centuries-old brewing industry, exemplified by the Swan Brewery on the Thames,
Allied to these developments, the
Fulham's traditional population of working people has been partially displaced by affluent newcomers since the turn of the century.[39]
Piece of aviation history
Musical heritage
William Crathern, the composer, was organist at St Mary's Church, West Kensington, when it was still known as North End. Edward Elgar, the composer, lived at 51 Avonmore Road, W14, between 1890 and 1891.[42] The notorious Italian tenor Giovanni Matteo Mario de Candia and his wife opera singer Giulia Grisi, made Fulham their home from 1852 until the 1900s at a lovely country-manor where their daughters and son were born, among them writer Cecilia Maria de Candia.[43] Conductor and composer Hyam Greenbaum married the harpist Sidonie Goossens on 26 April 1924 at Kensington Registry Office and they set up home in a first floor flat on the Fulham Road, opposite Michelin House.[44]
Redevelopment
With the accession of
Politics
Fulham is part of two constituencies: one, Hammersmith bounded by the north side of the Lillie Road, is represented by Andy Slaughter for Labour, the other, Chelsea and Fulham parliamentary seat is currently held by Greg Hands for the Conservatives. Fulham was formerly a part of the Hammersmith and Fulham parliamentary constituency which was dissolved in 2010 to form the current seats. However, parts of Fulham continue to score highly on the Jarman Index, indicating poor health outcomes due to adverse socio-economic factors.[citation needed]
Fulham has in the past been solid Labour territory.
With "gentrification", Fulham voters have been leaning towards the Conservatives since the 1980s as the area underwent huge demographic change: the tightly packed terraces which had housed working-class families employed in trade, engineering and the industry that dominated Fulham's riverside being gradually replaced with young professionals.[citation needed]
In the 2005 General Election, Greg Hands won the Hammersmith and Fulham Parliamentary seat for the Conservatives, polling 45.4% against Labour's 35.2%, a 7.3% swing. In the 2010 General Election, he was re-elected this time for the newly formed Chelsea and Fulham constituency. In the 2015 General Election he was returned with an increased share of the vote.[citation needed]
Hammersmith and Fulham is currently controlled by Labour. At the 2014 local elections, Labour won 11 seats from the Conservatives, giving them 26 councillors and control of the council (said to have been the then Prime Minister David Cameron's "favourite"[47]) for the first time since 2006.
Sport, entertainment and life-style
Sport
Before the area became home to the
Famously exclusive sports clubs, the Queen's Club for tennis and the
In the case of the latter, members have included British monarchs and the waiting list for membership currently averages over fifteen years. Public tennis courts are located at the entrance to Fulham Palace. Tennis courts can also be found on Eel Brook Common. Hurlingham Park's tennis courts are used as netball courts and tennis nets are taken down and so restricting access to the courts for tennis. Hurlingham Park hosts the annual Polo in the Park tournament, which has become a recent feature of the area. The Hurlingham club is the historic home of polo in the United Kingdom and of the world governing body of polo.[citation needed]
Rugby is played on Eel Brook Common and South Park.[48] Normand Park in Lillie Road is the entry into the Virgin Active-operated Fulham Pools swimming facilities and neighbouring tennis courts. Fulham can boast of two connections with the 'royal' game of Real tennis. There are the courts at the Queen's Club and then there was an unsurpassed designer of real tennis courts, one Joseph Bickley (1835-1923), who lived in Lillie Road and who took out a patent on his plaster mixture that withstood condensation and damp. To Bickley's skill are owed the survival, among others, of courts at Hampton Court Palace, Jesmond Dene, at Troon in Ayrshire as well as at the local Queen's.[49][50]
Fulham has five active Bowls clubs: The Bishops Park Bowls club, The Hurlingham Park Bowls Club, Normand Park Bowls Club, The Parson's Green Bowls club and The Winnington in Bishops Park.[citation needed]
Entertainment
The most considerable entertainment (and sport) destinations in Fulham, after the
No trace is left today of either of Fulham's two theatres, both opened in 1897. The 'Grand Theatre' was on the approach to
If traditional or heritage venues have been swept away — apparently during conservative administrations in the main — the performing arts continue in Fulham, like the notable
There is a cinema complex as part of the Fulham Broadway Centre.
The debut albums by 1970s new wave bands The Stranglers (Rattus Norvegicus) and Generation X (Generation X) were recorded at TW Studios, 211 Fulham Palace Road. The Greyhound music venue at 176 Fulham Palace Road hosted up and coming punk, post-punk and indie bands in the late 1970s and the 1980s.[60]
Gin, breweries and pubs
The most illustrious brewery in Fulham was the
Gin distilling came to the remnants of the North End Brewery in Seagrave Road after a brief period of service as a timber works in the 1870s and lasted for almost a century. The premises were taken over by distillers Vickers who at the outbreak of the
With its long history of brewing, Fulham still has a number of pubs and
Open space
Fulham has several parks, cemeteries and open spaces, of which
Among the other spaces are Normand Park, the vestige of a convent garden with a bowling green,
Heritage
Architectural
Fulham parish's rural past meant that its grand houses and not so grand vernacular and industrial buildings were either clustered in the village of Walham Green, along the Thames or scattered among the fields of the hamlet of North End. Many historic structures fell prey to industrialisation, war-time bombing or a rush to demolition and redevelopment. Gone are Burne-Jones's 'Grange' in W14 and Foote's 'Hermitage' villa and park as is Lovibond's Cannon Brewery in SW6.[67]
The ancient buildings and estate of Fulham Palace, the seat of the Bishops of London until 1973, remains the outstanding asset with its Grade I listed medieval and Tudor buildings including a small museum, 13 acres of grounds, walled garden, and the part-excavated longest moat in England. The gardens are Grade II* listed. The further original grounds are now divided between a park by the riverside, All Saints’ Primary School and The Moat School, and public allotments.
There are a number of other statutorily and locally listed structures strewn across Fulham. Worthy of note is the last remaining conical kiln of the
The New King's Road contains several 18th-c. and early 19th-c. residences, namely, Northumberland House, Claybrook House, Jasmine House, Belgrave House, Aragon House, and 237–245 New King's Road, all Grade II listed.[71]
Much of the stock in Fulham attests its vigorous 19th-c. industrial and urban development, most of it, 'low-rise', and benefiting from the brick-fields that abounded locally at the time. An unlisted vestige of the early industrial era is the 1826 remnant of Gunter's canal bridge, still visible from platform 4 at West Brompton station.[citation needed]
Fulham in popular music and film
Fulham has several references in song lyrics:
- The album, Passion Play, by progressive rock band, Jethro Tull, contains: There was a rush along the Fulham Road/There was a hush in the Passion Play.
- London's Brilliant Parade by Elvis Costello, has the lyrics: From the gates of St. Mary's/There were horses in Olympia/And a trolley bus in Fulham Broadway.
- Ian Dury and the Blockheads, contains the lines: I could be a writer with a growing reputation/I could be a ticket man at Fulham Broadway Station.
- Greyhound Pub, since closed, in Fulham Palace Road, and to the subway under Hammersmith Broadway.
- Ejector Seat Reservation by alternative rock band, Swervedriver, has the line: And just don't tell me the Fulham score.
- Pretty Things by Take That has the line: At Fulham Broadway Station, I see them every day in 2010 album Progress.
- West London You Can't Rap, with the chorus line: You can't rap, my friend/You're white and you're from Fulham/Please put down the mic./ There's no way you can fool them.
Fulham has been featured in films including The Omen and The L-Shaped Room. Fulham Broadway Underground station was used in Sliding Doors.[72]
Education
Fulham is home to several schools, including independent pre-preparatory and
Transport
An early account of Fulham, from a pedestrian's viewpoint, is provided by Thomas Crofton Croker in his journal published in 1860.[76]
Rail
Fulham nestles in a loop of the Thames across the river from
The
Major roads
Major urban routes, or trunk roads, cross the area: The Talgarth Road — the
River crossings
By road:
- Wandsworth Bridge
- Putney Bridge
- Lillie Bridge, formerly a Thames tributary crossing, now over two railway routes.
- Counter's Bridge at Olympia, over the West London Line in the Counter's creek littoral.
By rail:
Places of interest
- Fulham Palace
- Fulham Pottery
- Margravine Cemetery
- Bishops Park
- Chelsea Harbour
- Stamford Bridge (stadium)
- All Saints' Church
- Craven Cottage
- New King's Road
- Riverside Studios, refurbished
- South Park, Fulham
- A. W. Puginchurch in London
Notable residents
- Joseph Addison (1672–1719), essayist, playwright lived at Sands End[79]
- Francesco Bartolozzi (1725–1815), Italian engraver[80]
- Joseph Bickley (1835–1923), Lillie Road-based Real tennis court designer and restorer[49][81]
- Kathleen Bliss (1908–1989), theologian and official of the World Council of Churches[82]
- Arthur Blomfield (1829–1899), architect[83]
- Charles James Blomfield (1786–1857), Bishop of London[83]
- William John Burchell (1781–1863), explorer, naturalist, artist, and author[84]
- Edward Burne-Jones (1833–1898), artist[85]
- Georgiana Burne-Jones (1840–1920), painter and writer, friend of George Eliot[86]
- Henry VIII of England[87]
- Sir Clifford Chetwood (born in Fulham, 1928), Chairman of George Wimpey[88]
- Linford Christie (born 1960), Olympian athlete
- Johnny Claes (1916–1956), Belgian racing driver
- Henry Compton (1632–1713), Bishop of London[87]
- Michael Cook (born 1933), Canadian playwright[89]
- Elvis Costello (born 1954), spent part of his youth in the area[90]
- Jill Craigie (1911–1999), documentary film maker and wife of Michael Foot[91]
- Mandell Creighton (1843–1901), historian and Bishop of London; a popular social centre in Lillie Road is named after him.
- Geoffrey de Havilland (1882–1965), aviation pioneer, had his first aircraft building workshop in Fulham[92]
- Evelyn De Morgan (1855–1919), painter in the Pre-Raphaelite tradition[93]
- William De Morgan (1832–1917), potter, ceramicist, designer and novelist[94]
- Example (Elliot John Gleave) (born 1982), rapper, singer, and songwriter[95]
- Benjamin Rawlinson Faulkner (1787–1849), society portrait painter, lived in Richmond (Lillie) Road[96]
- Charles James Féret (1854–1921), editor and historian of Fulham[97]
- See of Canterbury
- King George IV[98]
- Samuel Foote (1721–1777), dramatist, actor and manager[87]
- Henri Gaudier-Brzeska (1891–1915), expressionist sculptor and artist spent the last 5 years of his short life in Fulham[99]
- Edmund Gibson (1669–1748), Bishop of London[87]
- Léon Jean Goossens, Marie and Sidonie Goossens
- Nell Gwyn (1650–1687), companion to Charles II of England, has a close named after her in Fulham[100]
- Alfred Hackman (1811–1874), sub-librarian at the Bodleian Library[101]
- Toni Halliday (born 1964), musician[102]
- Andy Hamilton (born 1954), satirist, comic actor, writer and broadcaster[103]
- Imogen Hassall (1942-1980), actress
- Thomas Hayter (1702–1762), Bishop of London
- Humphrey Henchman (1592–1675), Bishop of London
- Henry Holland (1745–1806), architect
- world's first postcard
- William Hurlstone (1876–1906), composer mostly of chamber music, born in Empress Place (formerly Richmond Gardens)[104]
- Charlie Hutchison (1918–1993), British-Ghanaian communist, liberator of Belsen concentration camp, and only black British volunteer of the International Brigades
- John Jackson (1811–1885), Bishop of London
- Sajid Javid (born 1969), politician
- Nathaniel Kent (1737–1810), agriculturist
- Sir John Scott Lillie (1790–1868), Peninsular War veteran, inventor and North End resident[105]
- Robert Lowth (1710–1787), Bishop of London
- Henry Montgomery Campbell (1887–1970), Bishop of London
- John Mordaunt, 1st Viscount Mordaunt (1626–1675), royalist conspirator prominent in the English Civil War
- John Osborne (1929–1994), playwright[106]
- Baroness Phillips (1910–1992), Labour politician, radio personality, wife of Morgan Phillips and mother of Gwyneth Dunwoody[107]
- Augustus Pugin (1812–1852), architect of St Thomas of Canterbury Church, Rylston Road
- Daniel Radcliffe (born 1989), actor[108]
- Samuel Richardson (1689–1761), writer and printer
- John Robinson (1650–1723), Bishop of London
- Charles Rolls (1877–1910), co-founder of Rolls-Royce Limited and pioneer aviator, had his car showroom in the former Lillie Hall[109]
- John Saris (1580–1643), captain of the first English ship to reach Japan
- Jean-Baptiste Say (1767–1832), French liberal economist known for Say's law on the behaviour of markets[110]
- Granville Sharp (1735–1813), abolitionist and brother of William[111]
- William Sharp (1729–1810), surgeon
- Thomas Sherlock (1678–1761), Bishop of London
- Sir Oswald Stoll(1866–1942), theatre impresario and benefactor
- Robert Stopford (1901–1976), briefly Bishop of Fulham, before becoming Bishop of London, the last to reside at Fulham Palace
- Janet Street-Porter (born 1946), journalist[112]
- Richard Terrick (1710–1777), Bishop of London
- William Wand (1885–1977), Bishop of London
- Bob White, (born 1936), cricketer, later umpire[114]
- Leslie Arthur Wilcox (1904–1982), marine artist[115]
- Emlyn Williams (1905–1987), actor, dramatist, author, lived at 15 Pelham Crescent from 1937 to 1962
- Sir William Withers (1657–1720), Lord Mayor of London
- Arthur Winnington-Ingram (1858–1946), Bishop of London (1901–1939), one of the longest serving bishops
- John Young (1797–1877), City architect and developer of Empress Place and Lillie Road
-
Portrait ofHenry VIII. He came from Fulham
-
Nell Gwyn by Simon Verelst. She lived in Fulham
-
Kneller's portrait of Joseph Addison of Sands End
-
Novelist, Samuel Richardson, who moved from North End to Parsons Green
-
French liberal economist who in his youth stayed in Fulham
-
Granville Sharp (Hoare memoire). He is buried in Fulham
-
De Morgan and his wife, Evelyn. They lived and worked in Sands End
-
Georgiana Burne-Jones and children by Edward Coley Burne-Jones. They lived in North End
-
Henri Gaudier-Brzeska self-portrait
-
Janet Street-Porter grew up in Fulham
-
Linford Christie in 2009. He attendedHenry Compton School
-
Daniel Radcliffe in 2014. He comes from Fulham
See also
- Metropolitan Borough of Fulham
- Counter's Creek
- Kensington Canal
- Lots Road Power Station
- West London Line
- West Brompton station
- West Kensington
- Earls Court Exhibition Centre
- Sir John Scott Lillie
- Grade I and II* listed buildings in Hammersmith and Fulham
- Parks and open spaces in Hammersmith and Fulham
- Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race
Gallery
-
Entrance to Fulham Broadway station
-
Covered tankard made by Fulham Pottery, c. 1685-1690
-
Cremorne Bridge, West London Extension Railway Bridge, towards Fulham
-
Mulberries at Fulham Palace
-
Tudor entrance to Fulham Palace kitchen garden
-
vestige of 1826 canal bridge from Lillie Bridge, Fulham
-
Corbett & McClymont's 1870 Carpentry workshop in Seagrave Road, Fulham
-
Former Fulham County Court House in North End Road
-
Parish Church of St John, Fulham
-
Fulham Town Hall entrance in Fulham Road
-
Fulham Cemetery in Fulham Palace Road
-
London Overground at West Brompton in Fulham
-
Fulham House in Fulham High Street
-
St Paul's Studios, Talgarth Road
-
Imperial Wharf station western entrance 2
-
Fulham Fire Station
-
Market, North End Road, Fulham, London
-
Kops Brewery, Sands End
-
River Thames by Bishop's Park
Bibliography
- The Fulham and Hammersmith Historical Society -[116] has a number of publications about the locality.
- Thomas Faulkner (1777-1855), An Historical and topographical account of Fulham; including the hamlet of Hammersmith. 1813. RCIN 1077212[117]
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External links
- London Borough of Hammersmith & Fulham
- London/Hammersmith and Fulham travel guide from Wikivoyage
public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Fulham". Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 11 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 293.
This article incorporates text from a publication now in the