Hedi Slimane
Hedi Slimane | |
---|---|
Born | Paris, France | July 5, 1968
Education | École du Louvre |
Occupations |
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Title | Artistic director of Celine |
Website | hedislimane |
Hedi Slimane (French pronunciation: Since February 2018, Slimane has been the creative, artistic and image director of Celine.[3]
In November 2018, Slimane topped the annual list of Vanity Fair's "50 most influential French people in the world".[4]
Early life
Slimane was born in the 19th arrondissement of Paris to a Tunisian father, who was an accountant, and an Italian mother, a dressmaker.[5][6] Two of his uncles were tailors.[6] In his youth, he and his mother made clothes together: Slimane sketched designs, the two would shop for fabrics and complete fittings, and his mother would cut and sew them.[6] He considered finding a career in the fashion industry as too competitive; instead, he studied political science and pursued a career in journalism.[6][7] At 11, he discovered photography, received his first camera and learned black and white darkroom printing. He studied Art History at the École du Louvre and completed a tailor apprenticeship at a men's designer house.[8]
Fashion
Slimane has no formal training in fashion.
Picart introduced Slimane to
After the Black Tie collection for autumn-winter 2000–01, which foreshadowed the advent of Slimane's silhouette, and the debuts of "skinny," he chose to leave YSL, declined the offer of creative directorship at
Thanks in part to Slimane as the creative director of the fashion house, Dior's business, which includes
Slimane commissioned original soundtracks for his runway shows for Dior Homme, created by artists such as Beck, Readymade FC (Jean-Philippe Verdin), and bands such as Phoenix, The Rakes, and Razorlight. The track "In the Morning" was composed by Razorlight exclusively for the Dior Homme show. Slimane was known for working with emerging avant-garde artists. Readymade FC composed "F Me" (2001–02) and the legendary "Flexion" (2002–03). These New Puritans, composed "Navigate, Navigate" for the last défilé of Dior Homme in January 2007. Slimane became known for redefining the male silhouette, widely recreated in fashion and advertising (fashion and fragrances).
In July 2007, Slimane did not renew his contract at Dior Homme. The fashion house discussed the funding of Slimane's own label, but the discussions failed.[22] Slimane had written on his website that he did not want to lose control of his name, and management of his own brand. He returned to fashion and portrait photography.
In March 2011, following
In January 2018, LVMH announced that Slimane would take on the role of creative director at Céline. Following the rebranding direction, Slimane has dropped the French accent for Céline, making it Celine.[24]
In April 2018, Slimane won more than 8 million euros in a lawsuit against Kering after he was paid only €667,000 instead of €10 million for his non-compete clause.[25]
In January 2019, Slimane presented his first stand-alone menswear show for Celine.[26]
On June 26, 2022, Slimane showed his spring/summer 2023 collection for Celine at the Palais de Tokyo, the same location where he presented his autumn/winter collection for Dior Homme twenty years earlier.[27] Published notes accompanying the show quote him as saying, "[I] wanted to pay tribute to the institution and remember this moment in [my] menswear reform."[27] The show demonstrated his "unrelenting aesthetic vision that is defined by the fusion of the high-luxury of the Celine atelier and a rebellious, rock and roll sensibility."[27]
Perfumery
Dior
In 2004, when he was in charge of Dior Homme collections,[28] Hedi Slimane created a private collection of colognes.[29] The first collection encompassed three colognes, including Cologne Blanche, Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent.[29] Hedi Slimane designed the bottle and changed the typography of the Dior logo by using uppercase letters.[30][31] The distribution of the collection was then carried out exclusively in Maison Christian Dior boutiques.[32][33] These are the first colognes by Dior.[34]
In 2005, after the launch of the Collection Privée Christian Dior, Hedi Slimane, in collaboration with Olivier Polge, created a new fragrance Dior Homme which revolved around Masculinized Iris.[35] Similar to the colognes, he designed the bottle, the concept and the advertising campaign.[36][37]
In 2006, he also created a line of six skincare products called Dior Homme Dermo System, developed in collaboration with the Harvard Medical Center.[38][39]
Celine
In 2019, while artistic director of Celine, he launched a collection named Celine Haute Parfumerie. This collection included 11 fragrances, 2 of which were announced for later dates: "Rimbaud" and "Bois Dormant".[40][41][29] He also opened boutiques dedicated to this new Haute Parfumerie collection, first on Rue Saint Honoré,[42] then at Le Bon Marché in Paris,[43] as well as Harrods in London.[44][45][46] Between 1964[47] and 2019, Celine had not released any perfumes.[48][49] He designed the bottles, created the fragrances' names[29] and conceptualized the packaging.[50] The 11 names chosen by Hedi Slimane for each perfume were derived from the couturier's olfactory journal.[49][48] The collection was unisex as it was designed for both men and women.[51]
In 2021, Slimane launched a line of scented candles.[52]
Watchmaking
In 2004, at Dior, he created the Chiffre Rouge watch, the brand's first automatic watch,[53] which was available in 21 models.[54]
The watch's caliber is developed by Zenith Manufacture.[55] Dior later introduced new versions: in 2015 and in 2024.[56] In 2024, on the occasion of its twentieth anniversary, commercialization was planned for February, with models targeting both women and men.[57]
The watch is characterized by an asymmetrical silhouette and the presence of elements in red, including a cherished date for the brand.[53] One edition, adorned with stones and decorated with a rainbow of jewels, was produced in only 20 pieces.[56]
Art and photography
In 2000, Visionaire magazine, a New York quarterly that commissions publication projects on fashion, asked Slimane to guest edit its next issue. Published in an edition of 6,000 and priced at $175, Slimane's proposal of his own vision of Paris as a city of the future involved the participation of 29 artists, photographers, architects, musicians, and graphic and Web site designers.[58]
Immediately after leaving
London Birth of a Cult, released by Steidl in 2005, described the daily life of a young, unknown British rock star Pete Doherty. Pete Doherty is surrounded by the Paddingtons, his fans, and he symbolized the new generation of London punk rock. The book foreshadowed the project on "London". Slimane proposed "London" to the French daily Libération. The London issue, published in May 2005, marked the beginning of the British onslaught, and its adoption by a new generation of French fans. On July 5, 2005, Slimane celebrated his birthday at Tryptique club in Paris where Doherty took stage by surprise and sang Happy Birthday. The Paddingtons and The Others also performed.
In May 2006, Hedi Slimane created the photographic blog Hedi Slimane Diary. Slimane created his Rock Diary, beginning in 2004 in collaboration with the British journalist from
When Slimane left for America and based himself in Los Angeles in 2007, California became the subject of many of his images and later the subject of several exhibitions.[60]
In 2011, he curated "Myths and Legends of Los Angeles" a group show of Californian artists, including
Commissioned for the 2011 debut issue of Garage, a magazine created by
Bibliography
- 2002 – Intermission 1, Charta
- 2003 – Berlin, Steidl/7L
- 2004 – Stage, Steidl/7L
- 2005 – London Birth of A Cult, Steidl/7L
- 2005 – Interzone: The Hedi Slimane Book, Purple Fashion 4
- 2006 – Portrait of A Performer: Courtney Love, a Visionaire bookzine
- 2007 – Costa Da Caparica 1989 exhibition catalogue
- 2008 – Rock Diary, JRP-Ringier
- 2009 – American Youth, DVD Box set, MK2
- 2011 – Anthology of A Decade, JRP-Ringier. (Collection; divided into 4 Books: France, UK, US, DE/RU)
Exhibitions
- 2004 – Berlin at Kunstwerke, Berlin
- 2004 – Berlin at MOMA/PS1, New York
- 2004 – Berlin at Koyanagi Gallery, Tokyo
- 2004 – Stage at Almine Rech Gallery, Paris
- 2005 – Robert Mapplethorpe curated by Hedi Slimane, at Thaddeus Ropac Gallery, Paris
- 2005 – Thank You For The Music group show, Spruth Magers Gallery, Munich
- 2006 – As Tears Go By at Almine Rech Gallery, Paris
- 2006 – I Love My Scene group show curated by Jose Freire, Mary Boone Gallery, New York
- 2006 – Portrait of A Performer at Galerie Gmurzynska, Zurich
- 2007 – Costa Da Caparica at Ellipse Foundation, Lisbon
- 2007 – Sweet Bird of Youth group show curated by Hedi Slimane at Arndt and Partner, Berlin
- 2007 – Young American at Foam Museum, Amsterdam
- 2007 – Perfect Stranger at Almine Rech Gallery, Paris
- 2008 – MUSAC Museum for Contemporary Art, Leon, Spain
- 2011 – Fragments Americana at Almine Rech Gallery, Brussels
- 2011 – California Dreamin, Myths and Legends of Los Angeles group show curated by Hedi Slimane, Almine Rech Gallery, Paris
- 2011 – California Song at MOCA, Los Angeles
- 2014 – SONIC at The Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
References
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- ^ "Star Designer Quits and Turns $820,000 Into $12.3 Million". Bloomberg.com. 2018-04-05. Retrieved 2018-04-05.
- ^ Staff, W. W. D. (2018-01-21). "EXCLUSIVE: Hedi Slimane to Join Céline — and Will Add Men's Wear". WWD. Retrieved 2019-02-19.
- ^ Les 50 Français les plus inuflents du monde en 2018, 20 November 2018
- ^ Ursula Langmann and Marika Schaertl (November 24, 2003), Die dunklen Seiten des Hedi S. Archived 2021-01-27 at the Wayback Machine Focus.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Drake, Alicia (March 2000). "Hedi Times". W.
- ^ a b c d e f g h Horyn, Cathy (August 10, 1999). "That Man from Saint Laurent". The New York Times: A14.
- ^ a b Hedi Slimane: Berlin, March 11 – May 31, 2004 MoMA PS1, New York.
- ^ Socha, Miles (2021-03-10). "Seminal Moment: Vuitton's 1996 Monogram Project Was the Mother of All Collaborations". WWD. Retrieved 2022-08-31.
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