Hip hop fashion
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Hip-hop fashion (also known as rap fashion) refers to various styles of dress that originated from Urban Black America and inner city youth in cities like New York City, Atlanta, and Los Angeles. Being a major part of hip hop culture, it further developed in other cities across the United States,[1] with each contributing different elements to the overall style that is now recognized worldwide.
History
Late 1970s to mid-1980s
During the late 1970s,
In the 1980s,
Trending accessories of the time included large eyeglasses (such as
The fashion of 1980s hip-hop is widely regarded as one of the key components of the old-school hip-hop culture. It is often celebrated in nostalgic hip-hop tracks such as Ahmad's 1994 single "Back in the Day" and Missy Elliott's 2002 song of the same name.
As per Gwendolyn O'Neal, author of African American Aesthetics of Dress (1997), "The African-American aesthetic of dress is not exclusively African or American, but rather is influenced by distinct 'cultural' experiences that stem from being of African ancestry and living in America."[7] In an interview with Black Book Magazine, rapper Jay-Z supported this view and defended the preference for luxury fashion brands in hip-hop culture as a way of "living on our own terms, rather than trying to imitate an elite lifestyle." The use of high-end fashion products in the hip-hop lifestyle is not necessarily driven by conspicuous consumption.[7]
Preppy
In the first wave of hip-hop influence, preppy fashion also gained popularity among the youth of the 1980s. This group of young, upwardly mobile black individuals, known as "buppies", embraced 1980s hip-hop music and wore clothing items from brands like Polo, Timberland, and Tommy Hilfiger. They were particularly drawn to the exclusivity and aspirational appeal of Hilfiger, with its all-American, WASP-y, and country club aesthetic.[8] The brand's immense popularity among the hip-hop subculture community eventually led to its global expansion.[7]
Late 1980s to early 1990s
In the 1990s, hip-hop fashion underwent a gradual evolution from the 1980s, as the community began to draw inspiration from traditional African-American dress. The style of dressing in the early 1990s was influenced by elements such as bright colors, oversized pants, and headwear.[9] The character portrayed by Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air serves as a notable example of the classic style and fashion trends of the 1990s. He is consistently dressed in bright and colorful garments, throwback jerseys, and baseball caps. Similarly, rappers such as Kid 'n Play and Left Eye of TLC also popularized the use of bright-colored clothing and baseball caps. Among women, TLC and the late R&B singer Aaliyah created a fashion trend by pairing baggy pants with crop tops or sports bras, and occasionally adding an oversized flannel shirt to their looks. This style represented their own version of femininity and conveyed the idea that not everything needs to be form-fitting and tight in order to be considered sexy.
Kris Kross established the fad of wearing clothes backwards.[5]
In 1984, Nike collaborated with Michael Jordan to create the well-known basketball shoes, the Air Jordans. Even though the price point ranged from US$100 (which was considered a high price point then), it did not stop people from lining up for hours just to get their hands on a pair of these shoes. To date, Air Jordans are still widely worn by basketball players, and with Nike releasing retro versions from time to time, which sell out globally within minutes of the release date.[11] Adidas had a large role in sneaker culture, helped by Run-DMC when the group's single "My Adidas" released in 1986.[12] Other clothing brands such as Reebok, Kangol, Fila, Champion, Carhartt, and Timberland were closely associated with the hip hop scene, particularly on the East coast with hip hop acts such as the Wu-Tang Clan and Gang Starr sporting the look.[citation needed]
Gangsta rap pioneers N.W.A popularized an early form of street style in the late 1980s from the African American gangs and hustler cliques who were there mimicking cholo fashion. This included khaki Dickies work pants, white T-shirts, Locs sunglasses, Air Jordan or Nike Cortez sneakers, with black Los Angeles Raiders or Kings snapback hats and Starter jackets. These jackets were also a popular trend in their own right in the late 1980s and early 1990s. They became something of a status symbol, with incidents of robberies of the jackets reported in the media.[citation needed]
Hip hop fashion in this period also influenced high fashion designs. In the late 1980s, Isaac Mizrahi, inspired by his elevator operator who wore a heavy gold chain, showed a collection deeply influenced by hip hop fashion.[13] Models wore black catsuits, "gold chains, big gold nameplate-inspired belts, and black bomber jackets with fur-trimmed hoods." Womenswear Daily called the look "homeboy chic".[13] In the early 1990s, Chanel showed hip hop-inspired fashion in several shows. In one, models wore black leather jackets and piles of gold chains. In another, they wore long black dresses accessorized with heavy, padlocked silver chains. (These silver chains were remarkably similar to the metal chain-link and padlock worn by Treach of Naughty by Nature, who said he did so in solidarity with "all the brothers who are locked down.")[13]
The
Mid 1990s to late 2000s
Fashion among "hip hop" elites
On the
This look transcended into the R&B world in the mid-1990s when Jodeci came onto the scene, who were crooners but with a more edgy and sexual look. By wearing gangster-style clothes along with the bad-boy attitude and being a R&B group, they appealed to both men and women. They were particularly known for their baggy clothing, symbolizing a hand-me-down from an older relative with a bigger build, as a sign of toughness.
On the East Coast, "ghetto fabulous" fashion (a term coined by Sean Combs) was on the rise.[15]
Urban streetwear
Karl Kani was another influential designer who merged hip hop with fashion.[19]
Other brands, such as Nike, Jordan,
Throwback clothing
This section possibly contains original research. (January 2010) |
One sportswear trend that emerged was the rise in popularity of
The "hip-pop" era also saw the split between male and female hip hop fashion, which had previously been more or less similar. Women in hip hop had emulated the male tough-guy fashions such as
Bling
In the mid-to-late 1990s, platinum replaced gold as the metal of choice in hip hop fashion.
With the advent of the jewelry culture, the turn-of-the-century-established luxury brands made inroads into the hip hop market, with brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and 212 Diamond City making appearances in hip hop videos and films.
Modern (2000s–2010s)
This section possibly contains original research. (January 2010) |
In the 1990s and beyond, many hip hop artists and executives started their own fashion labels and clothing lines.
Up-and-coming urban clothing lines have dominated the fashion in the hip hop genre. Skinny jeans also came into style in part due to New Boyz' jerk dance from the song "You're a Jerk".[citation needed]
The hip hop fashion trends of the 2000s were all over the place and changed constantly, starting with the baller-type image. Michael Jordan's cover on Sports Illustrated was significant in hip-hop fashion because he was able to influence millions of people into the direction of baggy shorts, baggy tops, and gold chains. There have been other celebrity influences among fashion trends, with most of these influences coming from hip hop artists. Gucci and Louis Vuitton became extremely popular among the hip hop/urban community from the use of the words, "Gucci" and "Louis" in lyrics and music videos.[citation needed]
During this time period, many fashion trends from the 1980s and early 1990s experienced a resurgence in popularity. For example, door knocker earrings and form-fitting jeans for men came back into style. Cartoon graphic print hoodies by Bathing Ape, as popularized by artist and producer Pharrell, also gained popularity. Women continued to wear high heels in various forms, and new shoe styles emerged, such as the open-toed boot.[21]
In recent years, the hip hop world has seen a resurgence of old fads as well as the emergence of new ones. The last few years of the first decade of the new millennia gave rise to the popularity of tattoos covering artists from head to toe. Soulja Boy, Wiz Khalifa, Lil Wayne and Tyga have set the trend of being completely "tatted up."[22] Birdman now sports a star tattoo on the crown of his head, Gucci Mane has an ice cream tattoo on his right cheek, and Lil Wayne has tattoos on his eyelids and forehead.[23]
When discussing fashion trends, one cannot overlook the significance of hairstyles, particularly for women. In recent years, there has been a revival of the asymmetrical haircut with a modern twist. Celebrities like Rihanna, Cassie, and Kelis have all helped popularize the trend of the half-shaven head.[24]
The resurgence of Adidas track jackets and the incorporation of fashion scarves are some of the latest trends to emerge in hip hop fashion. While Adidas tracksuits have been a part of hip hop culture since the commercialization of the genre, they have recently regained popularity.[citation needed]
Fashion scarves have also gained popularity in recent years. Kanye West is one of the latest artists to launch his own line of products, selling decorative scarves with provocative depictions under the name Risque Scarves.[25]
Skateboarding fashion has been used in the hip hop scene since the early 2010s, including knit caps, bonnets, fitted pants or shorts,
The rebirth of the 1990s
Hip-hop fashion from the 1980s to 2011 has undergone numerous changes, with new trends emerging and old trends resurfacing. Some of the most popular styles during this period include snapbacks, sportswear, basketball and skateboarding shoes, hoodies, piercings in one or both ears, leather jackets, sleeveless shirts, polo shirts, baggy pants, bikini tops, crop tops, tube tops, tank tops, factory tracksuits, and cropped T-shirts. These items of clothing have become iconic in hip-hop culture, with many artists and fans incorporating them into their personal style.[26]
Around 2012, fashion in hip hop saw a shift towards modern "high" streetwear and haute couture brands popularized by online fashion forums such as Superfuture and Styleforum. Brands such as
Skater culture is also prominent in the Hip-Hop scene. The boost in its popularity is largely attributed to
Around 2019, a fashion trend emerged coined as the "Opium" aesthetic, named after
Influence
As music played a significant role in the way people dressed during the 1990s, many
Moreover, hip hop has also adopted and then transformed traditional or "old world" luxury symbols and made them modern-day, "cool" commodities. Rapper LL Cool J wore a Kangol hat back in the 1980s, when few Americans knew anything about the European hat maker, but its association with hip hop would invigorate the brand. In 2003, London-based Kangol acknowledged the popularity given its sixty-year-old brand by a young LL Cool J in 1983.[7]
Criticism
Commentators from both inside and outside the hip hop community have criticized the cost of many of the accoutrements of hip hop fashion. Chuck D of Public Enemy summarized the mentality of hip hop fashion and some low-income youths as "Man, I work at McDonald's, but in order for me to feel good about myself I got to get a gold chain or I got to get a fly car in order to impress a sister or whatever."[32] In his 1992 song "Us", Ice Cube rapped that "Us niggaz will always sing the blues / 'cause all we care about is hairstyles and tennis shoes".[32] Some fans have expressed disappointment with the increased amount of advertising for expensive hip hop brands in hip hop magazines. In one letter to the editor in Source magazine, a reader wrote that the magazine should "try showing some less expensive brands so heads will know they don't have to hustle, steal, or rob and blast shots for flyness."[32] There were many highly publicized robberies of hip hop artists by the late 1990s; Guru of Gang Starr was robbed of his Rolex watch at gunpoint, Queen Latifah's car was car-jacked, and Prodigy was robbed at gunpoint of $300,000 in jewelry.[32]
Hip hop has sometimes come under fire for glorifying brands that shut it out and for embracing a fashion culture which does not embrace hip hop or black culture.[33] A dichotomy exists in the "collaboration" between influential hip hop artists who embrace designer brands and fashions, and these same brands that profit from hip hop's influencers. Designer brands such as Louis Vuitton or Versace align themselves with influential musicians because of the potential gains, but simultaneously maintain distance from these allies outside of advertising, "almost as with a keen desire to hold the controlling hand in these relationships" and control their public image.[34] In these partnerships/collaborations between designers and artists there is sometimes a pattern of exploitation in which the designers benefit disproportionately more than hip hop artists.
A few hip-hop insiders, such as the members of Public Enemy, Immortal Technique, Paris and Common, have made the deliberate choice not to don expensive jewelry as a statement against materialism.[32]
Gender roles and dress
Women
Along with the turning of the tide by select female hip hop artists came the emergence of promoting sex appeal through fashion. Female artists have faced a number of pressures ranging from gaining exposure to further their careers as well as conforming with certain images to remain in demand and relevant. Female rappers in today's time like Cardi B and Nicki Minaj are two of the most popular female rappers and still conform to this standard. The alignment of R&B music with hip hop music (with collaborations being more and more prevalent) placed a whole new category of women within the categorization of what constituted a hip hop artist.
As referenced above, the nineties centered around women's senses of style revolving around that of men, in that they adopted the use of oversized T-shirts and baggy pants. Also listed above are
"Black women's relationships to their bodies occur within overlapping cultural contexts that offer contradictory messages about their value and function".
LGBT community and gender variance
Hip hop has had a history of homophobia, only recently becoming more accepting of the LGBT community. Lyrics that openly use derogatory words such as "fag" or "dyke" have saturated the market, even being found in conscious rap, considered the most progressive section of hip hop. Marc Lamont Hill argues, "the progressive agendas of political rap artists such as Public Enemy, X-Clan, Paris, and Sista Souljah were strongly informed by radical Afrocentric, Black Islamic, and crude Black Nationalist ideologies that were openly hostile to queer identities".[38]
The hip hop genre has been traditionally viewed as a predominantly hyper-masculine community, with female artists adopting traits traditionally associated with men. Female artists such as Young M.A., Conscious Daughters, and Aaliyah have often dressed in clothing typically considered masculine, wearing baggy clothes and other traditionally masculine clothing items.
However, men have also begun to explore reversing gender roles through their fashion choices. Artists like Kid Cudi, Lil Wayne, A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Young Thug, and other self-identified straight men have made headlines for their androgynous dress. And while this style may seem new, it is not exclusive to recent times - even the early years of hip hop saw legends dressed in the disco styles of the era.[39]
Rappers like Lil Uzi Vert and Lil B have also challenged norms by redefining fashion in hip-hop. Their bold choices, from Uzi's avant-garde streetwear to Lil B's eclectic and gender-fluid styles, sparked conversations about self-expression and identity. Through their attire, they broke down stereotypes and embraced individuality, inspiring a new generation to embrace diversity in fashion. [40]
See also
References
- ^ "The Complete Story Of How Hip-Hop Changed The Way We Dress". FashionBeans. Retrieved 2019-08-01.
- ^ ISBN 978-0-465-02979-2.
- ^ "Backpiece jackets - the evolution of the painted jacket by Niklas Worisch - Issuu". 30 May 2014.
- ^ Cochrane, Lauren (2005-09-02). "Specs appeal". The Guardian. London. Retrieved 2010-05-04.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Keyes, p. 152.
- ^ Quoted in Keyes, p. 152 (quoting Schoolly D. "The Meaning of Gold." Spin (October 1988), p. 52).
- ^ S2CID 111293111.
- ^ Kitwana, Bakari. hip hop & High Society. Black Book Spring. pp. 112–17.
- ^ "Hip Hop Fashion in the 90s". filthydripped.com. 6 November 2015. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- MTV.com. Archived from the originalon 2005-02-05. Retrieved 2023-09-24.
- ^ "How Has Hip Hop Influenced Fashion?". LEAFtv. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- ^ "Run-D.M.C.'s 'My Adidas' and the Birth of Hip Hop Sneaker Culture". The Business of Fashion. 2014-07-18. Retrieved 2017-12-06.
- ^ a b c Wilbekin, p. 280.
- from the original on March 8, 2021. Retrieved 2021-07-13.
- ^ a b c d e Wilbekin, p. 281.
- ^ a b c Wilbekin, p. 282.
- ^ "Remember When Snoop Dogg Did 'SNL' Doggy Style?". Mass Appeal. 2017-05-08. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- ^ "15 Important '90s Hip-Hop Fashion Trends You Might Have Forgotten". BuzzFeed. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- ^ Karl Kani
- ^ Wilbekin, p. 283.
- ^ Claire (2009-12-30). "Take it or Leave It? Top Fashion Trends of 2009". Fashion Bomb Daily Style Magazine. Retrieved 2017-08-11.
- ^ hop%E2%80%99s-most-off-the-dome-tattoo-addicts/ "Ink Heads, Hip-Hop's Most Off the Dome Tattoo Addicts" xxlmag.com, December 1, 2009. Date accessed: May 9, 2011
- ^ "Lil Wayne, Gucci Mane And Game: A Journey Into Face Tattoos" Archived 2015-05-24 at the Wayback Machine rapflix.mtv.com, February 23, 2011. Date Accessed: May 9, 2011
- ^ "Rihanna's shaved head for 'Italian Vogue'". s2smagazine.com, July 7, 2009. Date Accessed: May 10, 2011.
- ^ "Kanye West's Risque Scarf Line Coming Up". sojones.com, May 9, 2011. Date Accessed: May 10, 2011
- ^ Shackelford, Caroline (2022-02-25). "The Evolution of Hip-Hop Fashion: Origins to Now". He Spoke Style. Retrieved 2023-05-20.
- ^ Babcock, Gregory (2015-09-28). "Fitted Is Better than Baggy - '90s Hip-Hop Fashion Trends vs. Today's Trends". Complex. Retrieved 2017-08-11.
- ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2023-05-20.
- ^ "Trippie Redd, Travis Scott, Kid Cudi, and the Commodification of Rage in Rap". Pitchfork. 2021-06-04. Retrieved 2023-05-20.
- ^ "The baseball jersey". Capital XTRA. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- ^ "The Most Stylish Rappers of the '90sMike D". Complex. Retrieved 2018-04-21.
- ^ a b c d e Keyes, p. 172.
- ^ "Is Fashion Racist?" Hufftington Post Live, October 16, 2013. Date accessed: December 8, 2013[permanent dead link]
- ^ Miller, Janice. Fashion and Music. Oxford: Berg, 2011. Print. p. 17
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- ^ "Dressing The Part: hip hop, High Fashion & Gender Roles". HipHopDX. Retrieved 2020-05-02.
- ^ yalcinkaya, Gunseli. "Lil B talks feminism, fashion and Frank Ocean". Dazed.com. dazed. Retrieved 19 April 2024.
Book sources
- Keyes, Cheryl L. (2004). Rap Music and Street Consciousness (1st ed.). Urbana: University of Illinois Press. ISBN 978-0-252-07201-7.
- Wilbekin, Emil (1999). "Great Aspirations: hip hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success". The Vibe History of hip hop (1st ed.). New York: Three Rivers Press. ISBN 978-0-609-80503-9.
Further reading
- Krishnamurthy, Sowmya (2023). Fashion Killa: How Hip-Hop Revolutionized High Fashion. Gallery Books. ISBN 978-1-9821-7632-7.