Ceuta

Coordinates: 35°53′18″N 5°18′56″W / 35.88833°N 5.31556°W / 35.88833; -5.31556
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
(Redirected from
History of Ceuta
)
"Sabtah" redirects here. For the biblical figure, see Sabtah (biblical figure). For other uses, see Ceuta (disambiguation).

Ceuta
سَبْتَة
Autonomous city
View of Ceuta
Royal Walls
Palace of the Assembly
Senate
2 senators (out of 264)
CurrencyEuro (€) (EUR)
Websitewww.Ceuta.es

Ceuta (

Arabic: سَبْتَة, romanized: Sabtah) is an autonomous city of Spain on the North African
coast.

Bordered by Morocco, it lies along the boundary between the

municipality belonging to the province of Cádiz prior to the passing of its Statute of Autonomy in March 1995,[7]
as provided by the Spanish Constitution, henceforth becoming an autonomous city.

Ceuta, like

Christian and Muslim, with a small minority of Sephardic Jews and Sindhi Hindus, from Pakistan.[9]

Darija Arabic
are the two main spoken languages.

Names

The name Abyla has been said to have been a Punic name ("Lofty Mountain"[10] or "Mountain of God") for Jebel Musa,[11] the southern Pillar of Hercules.[12] The name of the mountain was in fact Habenna (Punic: 𐤀𐤁‬𐤍‬, ʾbn, "Stone" or "Stele") or ʾAbin-ḥīq (𐤀𐤁‬𐤍𐤇‬𐤒, ʾbnḥq, "Rock of the Bay"), about the nearby Bay of Benzú.[13] The name was hellenized variously as Ápini (Greek: Ἄπινι),[13] Abýla (Ἀβύλα), Abýlē (Ἀβύλη), Ablýx (Ἀβλύξ), and Abilē Stḗlē (Ἀβίλη Στήλη, "Pillar of Abyla")[12] and in Latin as Abyla Mons ("Mount Abyla") or Abyla Columna ("the Pillar of Abyla").

The settlement below Jebel Musa was later renamed for the seven hills around the site, collectively referred to as the "Seven Brothers"

Arabic Sabtan[14] or Sabtah (سبتة‎), which themselves became Ceuta in Portuguese (pronounced [ˈsewtɐ]) and Spanish (locally pronounced [ˈsewta]
).

History

Ancient

Cathedral of Ceuta

Controlling access between the

Tangiers and Cádiz
.

After

Punic culture continued to thrive in what the Romans knew as "Septem". After the Battle of Thapsus in 46 BC, Caesar and his heirs began annexing North Africa directly as Roman provinces but, as late as Augustus, most of Septem's Berber residents continued to speak and write in Punic
.

Tingis (Tangiers) and Volubilis. Under Theodosius I in the late 4th century, Septem still had 10,000 inhabitants, nearly all Christian citizens speaking African Romance, a local dialect of Latin.[20]

Medieval

The Arab Baths of Ceuta, built between the 11th and 13th centuries
The Marinid Walls, built by Abu Sa'id Uthman II in 1328

reconquer the Vandal lands, his victorious general Belisarius continued along the coast, making Septem a westernmost outpost of the Byzantine Empire around 533. Unlike the former ancient Roman administration, however, Eastern Rome did not push far into the hinterland
and made the more defensible Septem their regional capital in place of Tingis.

Musa bin Nusayr fell afoul of a jealous caliph
, who stripped them of their wealth and titles.

After the death of Julian, sometimes also described as a king of the

Abd ar-Rahman III, the Umayyad ruler of Córdoba, Spain
.

Chaos ensued with the fall of the Caliphate of Córdoba in 1031. Following this, Ceuta and Muslim Iberia were controlled by successive North African dynasties. Starting in 1084, the

Marinids and Granada as well as autonomous rule under the native Banu al-Azafi. The Fez finally conquered the region in 1387, with assistance from Aragon
.

Portuguese

Conquest of Ceuta in azulejos at the São Bento railway station
1572 depiction of Ceuta
The Royal Walls of Ceuta, built from 962 to the 18th century, and navigable moats
Eclectic House of the Dragons, built in 1905

On the morning of 21 August 1415, King

Conquest of Ceuta. The battle was almost anticlimactic, because the 45,000 men who traveled on 200 Portuguese ships caught the defenders of Ceuta off guard and suffered only eight casualties. By nightfall the town was captured. On the morning of 22 August, Ceuta was in Portuguese hands. Álvaro Vaz de Almada, 1st Count of Avranches was asked to hoist what was to become the flag of Ceuta, which is identical to the flag of Lisbon, but in which the coat of arms derived from that of the Kingdom of Portugal was added to the center; the original Portuguese flag and coat of arms of Ceuta remained unchanged, and the modern-day Ceuta flag features the configuration of the Portuguese shield
.

John's son

Henry the Navigator distinguished himself in the battle, being wounded during the conquest. The looting of the city proved to be less profitable than expected for John I, so he decided to keep the city to pursue further enterprises in the area.[23]

From 1415 to 1437, Pedro de Meneses became the first governor of Ceuta.

The

Henry the Navigator
, who were sent with troops to defend Ceuta.

Under

Marinid sultanate. The resulting Battle of Tangier (1437)
, led by Henry, was a debacle. In the resulting treaty, Henry promised to deliver Ceuta back to the Marinids in return for allowing the Portuguese army to depart unmolested, which he reneged on.

Possession of Ceuta indirectly led to further Portuguese expansion. The main area of Portuguese expansion, at this time, was the coast of the Maghreb, where there was grain, cattle, sugar, and textiles, as well as fish, hides, wax, and honey.[24]

Ceuta had to endure alone for 43 years, until the position of the city was consolidated with the taking of

Arzila
and Tangier (1471) by the Portuguese.

The city was recognized as a Portuguese possession by the Treaty of Alcáçovas (1479) and by the Treaty of Tordesillas (1494).

In the 1540s the Portuguese began building the Royal Walls of Ceuta as they are today including bastions, a navigable moat and a drawbridge. Some of these bastions are still standing, like the bastions of Coraza Alta, Bandera and Mallorquines.[25]

Luís de Camões lived in Ceuta between 1549 and 1551, losing his right eye in battle, which influenced his work of poetry Os Lusíadas.

Iberian Union

In 1578 King

Cardinal Henry, succeeded him as King, but Henry also had no descendants, having taken holy orders. When the cardinal-king died two years after Sebastian's death, three grandchildren of King Manuel I of Portugal
claimed the throne:

Philip prevailed and was crowned King

Philip I of Portugal in 1581, uniting the two crowns and overseas empires in what is historically referred to as the Iberian Union.[26]

During the Iberian Union, 1580 to 1640, Ceuta attracted many settlers of Spanish origin[27] and became the only city of the Portuguese Empire that sided with Spain when Portugal regained its independence in the Portuguese Restoration War of 1640.

Spanish

Fort of the Desnarigado, built in the 19th century, houses a museum.
Bastion of la Coraza Alta on the shore of the Playa del Chorrillo

On 1 January 1668, King

Carlos II of Spain by the Treaty of Lisbon.[28]

The city was attacked by Moroccan forces under

Siege of Ceuta (1694–1727). During the longest siege in history, the city underwent changes leading to the loss of its Portuguese character.[clarification needed] While most of the military operations took place around the Royal Walls of Ceuta
, there were also small-scale penetrations by Spanish forces at various points on the Moroccan coast, and seizure of shipping in the Strait of Gibraltar.

During the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815), Spain allowed Britain to occupy Ceuta. Occupation began in 1810, with Ceuta being returned at the conclusion of the wars.[29]

Disagreements regarding the border of Ceuta resulted in the

Hispano-Moroccan War (1859–60), which ended at the Battle of Tetuán
.

A street in Ceuta, c. 1905–1910

In July 1936, General

Spanish Army of Africa and rebelled against the Spanish republican government; his military uprising led to the Spanish Civil War of 1936–1939. Franco transported troops to mainland Spain in an airlift using transport aircraft supplied by Germany and Italy. Ceuta became one of the first battlegrounds of the uprising: General Franco's rebel nationalist forces seized Ceuta, while at the same time the city came under fire from the air and sea forces of the official republican government.[30]

The Llano Amarillo monument was erected to honor Francisco Franco, it was inaugurated on 13 July 1940. The tall obelisk has since been abandoned, but the shield symbols of the Falange and Imperial Eagle remain visible.[31]

Following the 1947 Partition of India, a substantial number of Sindhi Hindus from current-day Pakistan settled in Ceuta, adding to a small Hindu community that had existed in Ceuta since 1893, connected to Gibraltar's.[32]

When Spain recognized the independence of

Spanish Morocco in 1956, Ceuta and the other plazas de soberanía
remained under Spanish rule. Spain considered them integral parts of the Spanish state, but Morocco has disputed this point.

Culturally, modern Ceuta is part of the Spanish region of

Hindu minorities.[33]

On 5 November 2007, King

better source needed
]

Since 2010, Ceuta (and Melilla) have declared the

better source needed][37]

Geography

Map of Ceuta (the Perejil Island, part of Ceuta, is just off the coast, in the upper left of this map)
Perspective view of the Strait of Gibraltar facing eastwards; Spain and Gibraltar on the left; Morocco and Ceuta on the right. The vertical dimension is exaggerated by a factor of 3.
A highly detailed map of Ceuta

Ceuta is separated by 17 km (11 mi)

military fort. Monte Hacho on the Peninsula of Almina overlooking the port is one of the possible locations of the southern pillar of the Pillars of Hercules of Greek legend (the other possibility being Jebel Musa).[39]

Important Bird Area

The Ceuta Peninsula has been recognised as an

griffon vultures, black storks, white storks and Audouin's gulls.[40]

Climate

Ceuta has a maritime-influenced

diurnal temperature variation is relatively low; the average annual temperature is 18.8 °C (65.8 °F) with average yearly highs of 21.4 °C (70.5 °F) and lows of 15.7 °C (60.3 °F) though the Ceuta weather station has only been in operation since 2003.[42] Ceuta has relatively mild winters for the latitude, while summers are warm yet milder than in the interior of Southern Spain, due to the moderating effect of the Straits of Gibraltar. Summers are very dry, but yearly precipitation is still at 849 mm (33.4 in),[42]
which could be considered a humid climate if the summers were not so arid.

Climate data for Ceuta, 2003-2010
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 21.7
(71.1) 		25.5
(77.9) 		27.9
(82.2) 		28.4
(83.1) 		33.7
(92.7) 		35.3
(95.5) 		40.2
(104.4) 		38.9
(102.0) 		34.8
(94.6) 		33.1
(91.6) 		27.2
(81.0) 		25.6
(78.1) 		40.2
(104.4)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 15.8
(60.4) 		15.9
(60.6) 		17.4
(63.3) 		19.1
(66.4) 		21.9
(71.4) 		25.7
(78.3) 		28.9
(84.0) 		28.5
(83.3) 		25.8
(78.4) 		22.8
(73.0) 		18.8
(65.8) 		16.4
(61.5) 		21.4
(70.5)
Daily mean °C (°F) 13.4
(56.1) 		13.7
(56.7) 		14.8
(58.6) 		16.4
(61.5) 		18.8
(65.8) 		22.3
(72.1) 		24.9
(76.8) 		25.0
(77.0) 		22.8
(73.0) 		20.2
(68.4) 		16.4
(61.5) 		14.3
(57.7) 		18.6
(65.4)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 11.0
(51.8) 		11.4
(52.5) 		12.2
(54.0) 		13.6
(56.5) 		15.7
(60.3) 		18.8
(65.8) 		20.9
(69.6) 		21.5
(70.7) 		19.8
(67.6) 		17.5
(63.5) 		14.0
(57.2) 		12.1
(53.8) 		15.7
(60.3)
Record low °C (°F) 1.3
(34.3) 		4.4
(39.9) 		7.2
(45.0) 		9.0
(48.2) 		10.5
(50.9) 		7.2
(45.0) 		16.3
(61.3) 		18.0
(64.4) 		15.3
(59.5) 		12.2
(54.0) 		7.4
(45.3) 		6.3
(43.3) 		1.3
(34.3)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 122
(4.8) 		145
(5.7) 		90
(3.5) 		57
(2.2) 		21
(0.8) 		3
(0.1) 		1
(0.0) 		3
(0.1) 		37
(1.5) 		82
(3.2) 		127
(5.0) 		161
(6.3) 		849
(33.2)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1 mm) 8 9 6 6 4 1 0 0 2 7 7 10 60
Average
relative humidity
(%) 		72 75 68 71 66 67 61 70 72 75 73 73 70
Source:
Agencia Estatal de Meteorología[43]

Government and administration

The Palacio de la Asamblea de Ceuta is the seat of the Assembly of Ceuta.

Since 1995, Ceuta is, along with

autonomous cities of Spain.[44]

Ceuta is known officially in Spanish as Ciudad Autónoma de Ceuta (English: Autonomous City of Ceuta), with a rank between a standard

free port before Spain joined the European Union in 1986. Now it has a low-tax system within the Economic and Monetary Union of the European Union
.

Since 1979, Ceuta has held elections to its 25-seat assembly every four years. The leader of its government was the Mayor until the Autonomy Statute provided for the new title of

Socialist Workers' Party (PSOE, 3).[45]

Owing to its small population, Ceuta elects only one member of the

Congress of Deputies, the lower house of the Spanish legislature. As of the November 2019 election, this post is held by María Teresa López of Vox.[46]

Ceuta is subdivided into 63 barriadas ("neighborhoods"), such as Barriada de Berizu, Barriada de P. Alfonso, Barriada del Sarchal, and El Hacho.[47][48][49]

Ceuta maintains its own police force.

Defence and Civil Guard

The defence of the enclave is the responsibility of the Spanish Armed Forces' General Command of Ceuta (COMGECEU).[50] The Spanish Army's combat components of the command include:

The command also includes its headquarters battalion as well as logistics elements.[50]

In 2023, the Spanish Navy replaced the Aresa-class patrol boat P-114 in the territory with the Rodman-class patrol boat Isla de León.[53]

Ceuta itself is only 113 km (70 mi) distant from the main Spanish naval base at

Spanish Air Force's Morón Air Base is also within 135 km (84 mi) proximity.[citation needed
]

The Civil Guard is responsible for border security and protects both the territory's fortified land border as well as its maritime approaches against frequent, and sometimes significant, migrant incursions.[54]

Economy

Jebel Musa, as viewed from Benzú
. It is also known as the 'Dead Woman' because of its silhouette.

The official currency of Ceuta is the

free ports, oil ports, and also fishing ports.[56] Today the economy of the city depends heavily on its port (now in expansion) and its industrial and retail centres.[55] Ceuta Heliport is now used to connect the city to mainland Spain by air. Lidl, Decathlon and El Corte Inglés have branches in Ceuta. There is also a casino
. Border trade between Ceuta and Morocco is active because of advantage of tax-free status. Thousands of Moroccan women are involved in the cross-border porter trade daily, as porteadoras. The Moroccan dirham is used in such trade, even though prices are marked in euros.[57][58][59]

Transport

The city's Port of Ceuta receives high numbers of ferries each day from Algeciras in Andalusia in the south of Spain. The closest airport is Sania Ramel Airport in Morocco.

A single road border checkpoint to the south of Ceuta near Fnideq allows for cars and pedestrians to travel between Morocco and Ceuta. An additional border crossing for pedestrians exists between Benzú and Belyounech on the northern coast. The rest of the border is closed and inaccessible.

There is a bus service throughout the city, and while it does not pass into neighbouring Morocco, it services both frontier crossings.

Hospitals

The following hospitals are located within Ceuta:[60][61]

  • University Hospital of Ceuta, established in 2010, 252 beds[62]
  • Primary Care Emergency Services Jose Lafont
  • Ceuta Medical Centre
  • Spanish Military Hospital (500 beds in 1929, 2020 listed as a clinic)[63][64]

Demographics

Ceuta population pyramid in 2022

As of 2018, its population was 85,144.[65] Due to its location, Ceuta is home to a mixed ethnic and religious population. The two main religious groups are Christians and Muslims. As of 2006 approximately 50% of the population was Christian and approximately 48% Muslim.[66] As of a 2018 estimate, around 67.8% of the city's population were born in Ceuta.[67]

Spanish is the primary and official language of the enclave.[68] Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is widely spoken.[69] In 2021, the Council of Europe demanded that Spain formally recognize the language by 2023.[70]

Religion

Remains of the Late Roman Christian Basilica and Necropolis of Ceuta, dated to the mid-4th century AD or the beginning of the 5th century AD
Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption
, completed in 1726

Franciscans in 1227 during the Almohad Caliphate
.

The town's Grand Mosque had been built over a

St Mary of the Assumption
in 1726.

The

Diocese of Cádiz and Ceuta as part of a concordat between Spain and the Holy See;[74]
the union was not actually accomplished, however, until 1879.

Small Jewish and Hindu minorities are also present in the city.[75]

Roman Catholicism is the largest religion in Ceuta. In 2019, the proportion of Ceutans that identify themselves as Roman Catholic was 60.0%.[76]
The next largest religion was Islam (36.7%) and only 3.4% of people considered themselves as non-religious (1.5% atheist and 1.9% as non-religious) [76]

Migration

Main article: Ceuta border fence

Like Melilla, Ceuta attracts African migrants who try to use it as an entry to Europe. As a result, the enclave is surrounded by double fences that are 6 m (20 ft) high, and hundreds of migrants congregate near the fences waiting for a chance to cross them. The fences are regularly stormed by migrants trying to claim asylum once they enter Ceuta.[77]

Education

The University of Granada offers undergraduate programs at their campus in Ceuta. Like all areas of Spain, Ceuta is also served by the National University of Distance Education (UNED).

While primary and secondary education are generally offered in Spanish only, a growing number of schools are entering the Bilingual Education Program.[clarification needed]

Notable people from Ceuta

up to 1800

since 1800

  • General Francisco Llano de la Encomienda (1879 in Ceuta – 1963 in Mexico City), a Spanish soldier. During the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939) he remained loyal to the Second Spanish Republic
  • General Antonio Escobar Huertas (1879 in Ceuta – executed 1940 in Barcelona), a Spanish military officer
  • África de las Heras Gavilán (1909 in Ceuta – 1988 in Moscow), a Spanish Communist, naturalized Soviet citizen, and KGB spy who went by the code name Patria
  • user-generated source?
    ]
  • philologist
    of Sephardic Jewish descent
  • Manuel Chaves González
    (born 1945 in Ceuta), a Spanish politician of the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party. He served as the Third Vice President of the Spanish Government from 2009 to 2011
  • Ramón Castellano de Torres (born 1947 in Ceuta), a Spanish artist, thought by some to be an expressionist painter
  • Ignacio Velázquez Rivera (born 1953), first Mayor-President of Melilla
  • Juan Jesús Vivas Lara (born 1953 in Ceuta), became the Mayor-President of Ceuta in Spain in 2001
  • Pedro Avilés Gutiérrez
    (born 1956 in Ceuta), a Spanish novelist from Madrid.
  • user-generated source?
    ]
  • Mohamed Taieb Ahmed (born 1975 in Ceuta), a Spanish-Moroccan drug lord [81] responsible for trafficking hashish across the Strait of Gibraltar and into Spain.
  • Rakesh Narwani (born 1981 in Ceuta), a Spanish Filmmaker

Sport

Twin towns and sister cities

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in Spain

Ceuta is

twinned
with:

Dispute with Morocco

See also: Greater Morocco

The

Vélez and Perejil to Morocco, with the Spanish refusal to do so serving as a major source of tension in Morocco–Spain relations. In Morocco, Ceuta is frequently referred to as the "occupied Sebtah", and the Moroccan government has argued that Ceuta, along with other Spanish territories in the region, are colonies.[87][88] One of the major arguments used by Morocco in their attempts to acquire sovereignty over Ceuta refers to the geographical position of the city, as Ceuta is an exclave which is surrounded by Moroccan territory and the Mediterranean Sea and has no territorial continuity with the rest of Spain.[89] This argument was originally developed by one of the founders of the Moroccan Istiqlal Party, Alal-El Faasi, who openly advocated for Morocco to invade and occupy Ceuta and other North African territories under Spanish rule.[90] Spain, in line with the majority of governments in the rest of the world, has never recognized Morocco's claim over Ceuta. The official position of the Spanish government is that Ceuta is an integral part of Spain, and have been since the 16th century, centuries prior to Morocco's independence from Spain and France in 1956.[91] The majority of Ceuta's population support continued Spanish sovereignty and are opposed to Moroccan control over the territory.[92]

In 1986, Spain joined the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO). However, Ceuta is not under NATO protection since Article 6 of the North Atlantic Treaty limits such coverage to Europe and North America and islands north of the Tropic of Cancer. However, French Algeria was explicitly included in the treaty upon France's entry. Legal experts have claimed that other articles of the treaty could cover Spanish territories in North Africa but this interpretation has not been tested in practice.[93] During the 2022 Madrid summit, the issue of the protection of Ceuta was raised by Spain, with NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg stating: "On which territories NATO protects and Ceuta and Melilla, NATO is there to protect all Allies against any threats. At the end of the day, it will always be a political decision to invoke Article 5, but rest assured NATO is there to protect and defend all Allies".[94] On 21 December 2020, following statements made by Moroccan Prime Minister Saadeddine Othmani that Ceuta is "Moroccan as the Sahara", the Spanish government summoned the Moroccan ambassador, Karima Benyaich, to convey that Spain expects all its partners to respect the sovereignty and territorial integrity of its territory in Africa and asked for an explanation for Othmani's words.[95]

See also

References

Citations

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Bibliography

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ceuta.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Ceuta.
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