Japanese wine
Although
According to data from Japan's National Tax Agency for 2017, approximately 382,000 kiloliters of wine was purchased in Japan, of which two-thirds was imported wine. Of the 102,000 kiloliters of wine domestically produced that year, only a fifth came from domestically grown and harvested grapes. The Agency states the share of Japanese wine, as defined as domestically produced wine from domestically grown grapes, as only 4% of total domestic consumption, or 14,988 kiloliters. Only 58 kiloliters of Japanese wine was exported overseas.[1]
The main region for
History
Early history
Grape-growing in Japan began in 718 AD, in Katsunuma, Yamanashi Prefecture.[2] Japan's early viticulture was based on the Koshu grape, thought to be originally from the Georgia caucasus region.[3]
The first regularly documented wine consumption in Japan was however in the 16th century, with the arrival of
Meiji Era
There was a prejudice that Japanese looked at red wine and mistook it for "blood," while Westerners drank "living blood."[4][5]
A report written in 1869 by Adams, Secretary to the British Legation in Yedo, describes "a quantity of vines, trained on horizontal trellis frames, which rested on poles at a height of 7 or 8 feet from the ground" in the region of Koshu, Yamanashi.
20th century
In many prefectures a few small scale viniculturists remained, but it was not until after World War II that the scale of winemaking began to grow. However, in comparison to the growth of imported wines and the production of low cost retail wines from imported grape juices, domestically grown and harvested wine still remained at an early stage of development.
In terms of Japanese taste for domestically produced wine, astringency and acidity were not readily accepted at the beginning.2 For a long time sugars such as honey were added to moderate the flavor and "sweet" (甘口, amakuchi) wine was the mainstay. In 1907, Shinjiro Torii, founder of the Suntory beverages empire launched Red Sun Port Wine (赤玉ポートワイン, Akadama Pōto Wain) with an advertising campaign in 1922 that both scandalized with its suggestion of nudity, and prompted a huge boost to sales. The trend for sweetened, fortified and medicinal tonic wines continued until the 1970s when wine was still fundamentally known as grape liquor (葡萄酒, budōshu), and only a small minority imported and drank European wine.3
During the 1970s and 80s the skill level of wine making increased and the purchases of both imported and domestic wine grew with the rapidly expanding economy. Specialists began to call their holdings "wineries", and the emulation of Western style hedging and cultivation of insect resistant grape varieties spread. For the first time domestic wineries began to focus on producing superior wines using only domestically cultivated grapes. Also, in response to demand from Japanese consumers, the production of organic wines also became popular.
In the 1990s and 2000s due to a reduction in taxes on imported wine and a diversification of Japanese food culture, wine consumption continued to grow. In 1995, Shinya Tasaki became the first Japanese to be awarded the title of Meillieur Sommelier du Monde, and helped to significantly raise public awareness of wine appreciation. Media attention given to the beneficial effects of
Vine cultivation
To accommodate the challenges of climate and terrain in Japan vine cultivation techniques have been extensively adapted. In areas of high humidity during the summer, an elevated horizontal hedging technique known as "Tanajitate" (棚仕立) is used to keep the fruit about 1.5–2 meters above the ground to allow ventilation. Horizontal trellises have also proven effective in reducing wind damage from typhoons. On sloping land, Italian ryegrass is often planted under the vines to help prevent soil erosion.
In areas higher in the mountains, such as Tochigi, where good sunlight is at odds with the jagged terrain, winemakers have planted their hedges on steep hillsides both to receive a maximum of sunlight, as well as protect the vines against damage from heavy snowfall.
Industry structure
Japanese wines produced using only 100% domestic grape content command a price premium and are only occasionally exported.[12] Smaller, family or city owned wineries of note gaining a reputation for producing domestically grown wines of consistently better quality include Marufuji, Kizan, Katsunuma Jozo, Grace (all in Yamanashi Prefecture) Takeda (Yamagata Prefecture) and Tsuno (Miyazaki Prefecture).
Major wine producing regions of Japan
In Japan the main regions for wine production, listed in order of production volume of wine made from domestically-grown grapes, are
- Furano.
- Yamagata Prefecture: Tendō Wine (天童ワイン), Tendō.
- Niigata Prefecture: Iwanohara Wine (岩の原ワイン), Jōetsu.
- Yamanashi Prefecture: Katsunuma Wine (勝沼ワイン), Kōshū. "Rubaiyat", Kōshū. 100% Domestically grown grapes.
- Nagano Prefecture: Shinshū Wine (信州ワイン), Shiojiri.
- Higashiōmi.
- Nasushiobara.
- Kyōtanba.
- Habikino.
- Hyōgo Prefecture: Kobe Wine (神戸ワイン), Kobe
- In Hyogo Prefecture, Kobe City took the initiative to by developing regional agriculture and tourism with independent wineries as well has launching city-brand products.
- Miyazaki Prefecture: Aya Wine (綾ワイン), Aya. Tsuno Wine (都農ワイン), Tsuno.
Japanese grape varieties
Japan supports a wide range of grape varieties although the vast majority of this production is for table consumption and only a small percentage is used in domestic wine making. Strictly speaking there are no vines native to Japan,[13] although the Koshu white wine grape has evolved locally over many centuries and is therefore considered an indigenous variety.[14] Hardy varietals imported from North America such as the Delaware and Niagara grape were widely planted in the post war period, but since 1985 have significantly declined in popularity.[15] Premium table consumption grapes such as Kyoho and more recently Pione, a hybrid cultivar of Kyoho and Cannon Hall Muscat, command significant price premiums for producers.
Grapes used solely for winemaking are produced in limited quantities as price margins for table grapes are often significantly higher. Imported wine grape cultivars include Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Koshu
Koshu is a white wine grape variety grown primarily in Yamanashi Prefecture. The grape varietal developed from vines likely imported from the Caucasus through the Silk Road, at a period estimated to be around a thousand years ago.[16] The grape is a hybrid variety indigenous to Japan, and benefits from a relatively thick skin able to withstand the damp of the Japanese Summer.[17] The name “Koshu” is a former name for Yamanashi.
Characteristics of wines made from the Koshu grape are typically a pale, straw colour and a soft, fruity bouquet with overtones of citrus and peach. The taste is often described as clean, delicate and fresh, considered a good match for Japanese cuisine.[18]
Muscat Bailey A
"Muscat Bailey-A" (マスカットべリーA) is a red wine grape hybrid developed by Zenbei Kawakami (川上善兵衛, Kawakami Zenbei) (1868–1944) at the Iwanohara Winery (岩の原わいん) in Niigata Prefecture. Kawakami's goal was to develop a grape for wine adapted to Japan's climate. He did this by mixing the "Bailey" (ベーリー) type grape with a Black Muscat type grape to give birth to a red wine grape that is widely used in Japan. Also developed by Kawakami was the variety known as "Black Queen" (ブラッククイーン). The characteristics of Muscat Bailey-A are a very grape juice-like flavor and it is most widely used in sweet amakuchi wines. However, in recent years, drier varieties and barrel aged varieties have also been developed. Muscat Bailey-A has been blended with western grapes creating a very full bodied, Bordeaux style flavour. In addition, different blending has led to smoother Bourgogne/Burgundy varieties.
Designation of Origin
"Mark of Origin" (原産地表示, Gensanchi Hyōji) is a system of legal designation for wine produced in Japan, much like France's
In Japan there is no nationwide organization of legal designation, regardless of domain of origin or types of grape, anything that is fermented domestically can be labeled as "Japanese wine". Because of this, there are some products labeled as Japanese that are produced using imported grape juice.4
However, independent self-governing municipal bodies have begun systems of regional appellation. For example, Nagano Prefecture's "Appellation Control System" (長野県原産地呼称管理制度, Nagano-ken Gensan-chi Koshō Kanri Seido), and
See also
- Winemaking
- Agriculture in Japan
- Japanese cuisine
References
- ^ a b c "Overview of Domestic Wine Production (Japanese only)" (PDF). National Tax Agency. February 2019.
- ^ ISBN 0-19-866236-X.
- ^ Gilhooly, Rob (2022-09-12). "Rethinking the ancient origins of Japan's wine industry". The Japan Times. Retrieved 2022-09-13.
- ^ "富岡製糸場に行ってみた!明治時代の建築をほぼ当時のまま保存の世界遺産". Retrieved 2023-07-25.
- ^ "シルクの国の明治150年~上州富岡から始まった近代産業の夜明け~". Retrieved 2023-07-25.
- ^ Adams (1870). "Report on the Central Silk Districts of Japan". Presented to Both Houses of Parliament by Command of Her Majesty. 1. London: Harrison and Sons.
- ^ "果樹栽培地の歴史的風致 (Japanese only)" (PDF). Koshu City. 2016-12-21.
- ISBN 978-1906821623.
- ISBN 0-521-40215-8.
- ^ Robinson, Oxford Companion to Wine, p.380
- ISBN 978-1-84533-689-9.
- ^ Murray Brown, Rose (July 12, 2014). "Japanese Wines Hit British Supermarkets". The Scotsman. Retrieved 27 July 2014.
- ISBN 0-19-866236-X.
- ^ "Origins of the Koshu Grape". Koshu Valley. Retrieved 2019-05-27.
- ^ Sasaki, Shigeyuki. "Japanese Fruits - Fruits Grown in Japan". Takasago International Corporation. Takasago Corp. Retrieved 23 September 2015.
- ^ Koshu of Japan website, page of “About Koshu” Archived 2013-10-19 at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ “KOSHU wine gets uncorked abroad”. Felicity Hughes, The Japan Times, Jun 10, 2011
- ^ Koshu of Japan website, page of “Taste” Archived 2013-12-06 at the Wayback Machine
External links
- Koshu Valley Wine Country (in English)
- Japanese wine Archived 2007-10-16 at the Wayback Machine (in Japanese)
- "The Light and Dark of Imported Wine Demand" newspaper article (in Japanese)
- History of Japanese Wine from the National Winery Assoc. Website Archived 2007-10-16 at the Wayback Machine (in Japanese)
- The Japanese Wineries Association (in Japanese)