Kashk

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Kashk (Qurut; Chortan)
Main ingredientsYogurt, salt
Other information%21.60- 39.31 water, % 4.5-23.5 fat, %31.22-50.68 protein ve %2.84-13.19 salt[1]

Kashk (

sour milk
by shaping it and letting it dry. It can be made in a variety of forms, like rolled into balls, sliced into strips, and formed into chunks.

There are three main kinds of food products with this name: foods based on curdled milk products like yogurt or cheese; foods based on barley broth, bread, or flour; and foods based on cereals combined with curdled milk.

Etymology

From Middle Persian (kšk' / kašk), thought to have came from (hwš- / hōš-, "dry") in reference to the fermentation process which involves drying under the sun,[2][3] The term was loaned to numerous languages including Arabic, Syriac, Turkish, Azerbaijani and many others.[4]

In Armenian – chortan (chor means "dry", and tan means "diluted yoghurt")

In Turkic languages, qurut derives from the verb quru-t ('to make dry').

Background

Balls of kashk at Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent, Uzbekistan

The ancient form of kashk is a porridge of grains fermented with whey and dried in the sun.[5] The long shelf-life and nutritional value of kashk made it a useful item for peasants during the winter months, as well as soldiers and travelers.[6] Kashk is the origin of tarhana found in the moderns cuisines of Turkey and Greece, where it is called trachanas (τραχανάς).[6]

Modern kashk is usually a dish of dried buttermilk that can be crumbled and turned into a paste with water.[7][8] This coarse powder can be used to thicken soups and stews and improve their flavor, or as an ingredient in various meat, rice or vegetable dishes.[9][10] Drying allows a longer shelf life for the product.[11]

Kashk is also central to the staple

kashk-e bademjan.[12]

Kashk in different languages and cultures

Kashk dairy products can be found in the cuisines of

Arabic: جميد), chortan (Armenian: չորթան) and aaruul, khuruud (Mongolian: ааруул, хурууд). Chortan is mentioned in the 19th century Armenian epic poem Daredevils of Sassoun, said to be based on an 8th-century oral tradition.[15][16]

According to Francoise Aubaile-Sallenave, the first known literary use of the term[

Firdausi the term is used in the sense of "barley flour", but it is also used for a mixture of cracked wheat and cracked barley.[10] Aubaile-Sallenave argues that the original Persian kashk known from early Persian literature was made with barley that contained either a mix of leaven with water or some fermented milk. To answer questions about the modern meaning in Iran for a dried dairy dish, she argued, "Iranian speaking pastorialists, for whom dried sour milk was a staple, and who had no easy access to barley, applied the word kashk by analogy to dry sour milk". Charles Perry offers an alternate explanation based on the 13th century Arabic cookbook Wasf al-Atimah al-Mutadah which says dried yogurt was a Turkomen-style "kashk".[19]

A 10th-century Arabic cookbook describes two types of kashk, one made of wheat and leaven and another of sour milk. By the Middle Ages the word had two meanings, one referring to barley flour or a mix of barley and cracked wheat, and another to mean a meat or fowl dish cooked overnight (kashak or kashba).[20]

Preparation

Preparation of qurut in Kyrgyzstan

To make the dried yogurt qurut a traditional or modern method can be used. For the modern method, sour yogurt is blended until smooth, then boiled and strained. It is left to ferment in a warm oven for several days, then the moisture is strained and blended with salt to make the kashk. The drained liquid can be used to make

qaraqurut ("dried black whey").[21]

For traditionally prepared qurut water is added to full fat yogurt and poured into a goatskin "churn" - a sack hung from a tripod that is swung back and forth until the milk separates into a type of butter and buttermilk. The buttermilk is boiled and drained to obtain

Baluchistan English explorer Ernest Ayscoghe Floyer encountered this form of kashk:[22]

Kurdish women preparing kashk in a village in Turkey

...from the butter manufacture is left the buttermilk called "

dōgh
." This is boiled, and the remainder is "luch"; this is pressed and dried, and becomes "shilanch", or in Persian, "kashk," a hard, white biscuit of very sour cheese. This is powdered, and, boiled with savory herbs, is very palatable.

When kashk is made with grain in the Armenian, Arab and Turkish cuisines strained yogurt is added to grain and stored until it begins to ferment. After being left to dry in the sun for over a week it is turned into a coarse powder by rubbing and sifting.[9][10]

Regional cuisines

Caucasus

Caucasian cuisine. One of the ways matzoon is used is for the production of butter. When matsun is churned it separates from the buttermilk. By boiling and churning the buttermilk one obtains ricotta cheese. The product obtained by drying the ricotta clots is called chortan;[23] chor means "dry" and tan means "buttermilk" in the Armenian language.[24]

In Azerbaijan, qurut is made in a similar way from strained yogurt. Yogurt (

suzma qatiq. When the buttermilk "whey" has been separated from the butter using traditional methods the buttermilk curds are formed into small balls and dried in the sun.[9]

In western parts of Azerbaijan boiled flat dough is layered with a qurut white sauce and chicken to make Azerbaijani xəngəl.

Central Asia

Qurutob from Tajik cuisine

Qurut dissolved in water is a primary ingredient of

mung beans, rice and qurut dissolved in water. It is sometimes salted, and in Mongolia
, aaruul can be flavoured as well as having many different shapes, sizes and textures (soft to rock-hard).

Iran

Iranian kashk

Kashk has been a staple in the Iranian diet for thousands of years.

doogh
which can be used as the base for kashk. The water is subtracted from this whitish beverage and what remains is kashk which can be dried. Iranian kashk has made an appearance in US markets in the past half-century by several Iranian grocers starting with Kashk Hendessi.

Turkey

In

erişte
, etc.

There is also a closely related dried food product called tarhana which is based on a fermented mixture of grain and yogurt or fermented milk. It is very similar to kishk of the Levantine cuisine described below.

Levant and Arabian Peninsula

In Lebanon, Jordan, Arabian Peninsula, and Syria, kishk is a powdery cereal of burghul (cracked wheat) fermented with milk and laban (yogurt), usually from goat milk. It is easily stored and is valuable to the winter diet of isolated villagers or country people. Kishk is prepared in early autumn following the preparation of burghul. Milk, laban, and burghul are mixed well together and allowed to ferment for nine days. In Lebanon, the mix is salted and traditionally set to ferment in large clay jars for up to three weeks, during which it is regularly kneaded.[29] Each morning the mixture is thoroughly kneaded with the hands. When fermentation is complete the kishk is spread on a clean cloth to dry, notably on the rooftops of rural dwellings.[30] Finally it is rubbed well between the hands until it is reduced to a powder, sieved, and then stored in a dry place.

In Lebanese cuisine, kishk is commonly used to this day, mixed with tomato paste, as a topping for manakish, a sort of flatbread cooked in an open oven and eaten for breakfast or a lunch. Traditionally, it would also be served with eggs, as a kibbeh stuffing, or in a soup, possibly with lamb meat fried in its own fat (awarma).[31]

In

labneh
(labneh malboudeh).

A 10th-century recipe for kishk recorded in the

rue, parsley, garlic and the leafy tops of leeks, shaped into disks, and allowed to dry in the sun.[32]

See also

References

  1. ^ Z. Tarakçı, M. Dervişoğlu, H. Temiz, O. Aydemir, F. Yazıcı. Review on Kes Cheese. GIDA (2010) 35 (4) 283-288
  2. OCLC 893676744.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link
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  3. ^ a b Mahmoudi, Sepideh (20 December 2022). "Comparison of traditional Doogh (yogurt drinking) and Kashk characteristics (Two traditional Iranian dairy products)" (PDF). Pelegia Research Library.
  4. ^ Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. "Welcome to Encyclopaedia Iranica". iranicaonline.org. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
  5. ^ "Food facts: A conversation with Gil Marks". Times of Israel. 4 November 2010.
  6. ^ .
  7. ^ "Ferment to be: Yotam Ottolenghi's kashk recipes". The Guardian. 19 July 2013.
  8. .
  9. ^ a b c Ottolenghi, Yotam (19 July 2013). Ferment to be: Yotam Ottolenghi's kashk recipes. {{cite book}}: |work= ignored (help)
  10. ^ .
  11. .
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  13. ^ Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. "Welcome to Encyclopaedia Iranica". iranicaonline.org. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
  14. ^ "Kashk goosfandi - Arca del Gusto". Slow Food Foundation. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
  15. ^ Давид и сборщики дани. Давид Сасунский (in Russian).
  16. ^ Haroutyunian, S. B. (1990). "OA Portal in Armenia" Գարեգին Սրվանձտյանցը և հայկական հերոսավեպը (Գ. Սրվանձտյանցի ծննդյան 150-ամյակի առթիվ) [Garegin Srvandztiants and the Armenian Heroic Epic (on the 150th anniversary of his birth)]. Patma-Banasirakan Handes (in Armenian) (1): 3–9.
  17. ^ Gueriguian, John L (2005). "Foods and Drinks in Fifteenth Century Anatolia, as Recorded by Amirdovlat Amasiasti". Journal of the Society for Armenian Studies. 14: 155–166.
  18. ^ Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. "Welcome to Encyclopaedia Iranica". iranicaonline.org. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
  19. .
  20. .
  21. ^ .
  22. ^ Floyer, Ernest Ayscoghe (1882). Unexplored Baluchistan: a Survey, with Observations Astronomical, Geographical, Botanical, Etc. Of a Route Through Mekran, Bashkurd, Persia, Kurdistan and Turkey. p. 265.
  23. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
    .
  24. ^ "Объяснения некоторых имён и слов". Давид Сасунский (in Russian).
  25. .
  26. .
  27. ^ Yurdakök, Murat (2013). "Yoğurdun öyküsü, probiyotiklerin tarihi" (PDF). Çocuk Sağlığı ve Hastalıkları Dergisi. Turkish National Pediatric Society: 46. Archived from the original (PDF) on 16 December 2014. Retrieved 14 December 2014./
  28. ^ Karabulut I, Hayaloğlu AA, Yıldırım H. 2007. Thinlayer drying characteristics of kurut, a Turkish dried dairy by-product. Int J Food Sci Technol, 42, 1080–1086.
  29. OCLC 35808135
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  30. OCLC 1103919360.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link
    )
  31. .
  32. ^ Nasrallah, Nawal (2007). Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens. Brill. pp. 209–210.

Bibliography

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