Milford Haven
Milford Haven
| |
---|---|
Clockwise from top: Milford Haven Docks from Hakin; Haven from town; the Tribute to Fishermen on The Rath. | |
Location within Pembrokeshire | |
Population | 13,907 (Community 2011)[1] |
Demonym | Milfordian |
OS grid reference | SM899061 |
Community |
|
Principal area | |
Preserved county | |
Country | Wales |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | MILFORD HAVEN |
Postcode district | SA73 |
Dialling code | 01646 |
Police | Dyfed-Powys |
Fire | Mid and West Wales |
Ambulance | Welsh |
Preseli Pembrokeshire | |
Milford Haven (Welsh: Aberdaugleddau, lit. 'mouth of the two Rivers Cleddau') is both a town and a community in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is situated on the north side of the Milford Haven Waterway, an estuary forming a natural harbour that has been used as a port since the Middle Ages.
The town was founded in 1790 by
Milford Haven is the most populous community in the county, with a population of 13,907 within the community boundary at the 2011 census.[1] When measured in terms of urban area the population was 13,582, making it the second largest urban area in the county after Haverfordwest (where the urban area extends beyond its community boundary).[3]
The natural harbour of the Haven was known as a safe port and was exploited for several historical military operations throughout the second millennium. Campaigns conducted from the Haven included part of the invasion of Ireland in 1171 by
History
The town of Milford was founded in 1793, after Sir
In 1800, following the bankruptcy of the Jacobs & Sons, the Navy Board's overseer, Jean-Louis Barralier, was persuaded to lease the site for the Navy Board and develop a dockyard for building warships.[15] Seven royal vessels were eventually launched from the dockyard, including HMS Surprise and HMS Milford.[16] The town was built on a grid pattern, thought to have been to the design of Jean-Louis Barrallier, who remained in charge of shipbuilding there for the Navy Board.[17][18] Between 1801 and 1803, the town and waterway were protected by temporary batteries at Hakin Point and south of St Katherine's Church, in response to the perceived threat following the Fishguard Invasion.[19]
A church was consecrated in October 1808 and dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria in the underdeveloped eastern side of the town, it remained a chapel of ease until 1891 when Milford became a parish, until that time competing with St Peter and St Cewydd in Steynton.[11] By the start of the 19th century, a mail coach was operating between London and Hubberston,[20] and in 1800 the short lived Milford and Pembrokeshire Bank was established by Thomas Phillips, operating from a branch in the town. It collapsed in 1810.[21]
On 11 October 1809, a naval commission recommended purchase of the Milford Haven facility and formal establishment of a Royal Navy dockyard. This was, according to the report, due to the fact that Millford built-ships had proved to be cheaper due to the cheap cost of supplies and abundant labour supply.[14] It proposed purchase of the yard at £4,455.[14] However, as this was after the Battle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805), when the need for naval ships was decreasing in the Napoleonic Wars, and in such a remote location, the proposal seemed perplexing. However, in light of the end of the Franco-Spanish naval engagement, and the merging of the two sides of the Royal Navy under the Admiralty Board, the fact that Frenchman Barallier would remain in charge strongly suggests to historians that the Royal Navy accepted that its ships manoeuvrability was inferior to those of the Franco-Spanish alliance. In an effort to rectify this state of affairs the Royal Navy's first School of Naval Architecture was opened in Portsmouth in 1810. Effectively then, Millford was to be set up as a model dockyard under French management, from which lessons could be learnt for implementation in other dockyards.[14]
In 1814 the Royal Dockyard was transferred to Pembroke Dock;[22] though, when Robert Fulke Greville inherited the estate in 1824, a commercial dock was started which became the home of a successful fishing industry.[23] By 1849, the district of Hakin was described as a considerable centre of boat building,[24] and by 1906, Milford had become the sixth largest fishing port in the UK, and its population rose. The Pembrokeshire Herald claimed in 1912 that "the fish trade is Milford's sole industry ... the population of the town has doubled by means of it".[25]
In 1863, the railway network came to Milford, linking it to the Haverfordwest line and beyond. In 1866, work was completed on an additional extension which provided access to the docks and ship-breaking yard on the eastern side of the town.[26] Between 1875 and 1886 The Great Eastern was a permanent fixture at Milford Docks, remaining there for lengthy repairs.[27] Her arrival into the docks was heralded as an example of the scale of vessel which the town could expect to attract.[11]
In the late 1850s, work began on a network of forts on both sides of the Milford Haven estuary, as a direct result of the Royal Commission on the Defence of the United Kingdom. They were designed with the intention of defending the United Kingdom against French invasion, although were never used for this purpose. Notable examples in the town were Fort Hubberstone in Gelliswick and Scoveston Fort to the north east of the town.
By 1901, the town's population had reached 5,102, and by 1931 had further doubled to 10,104.
During the
In 1960, the
Toponymy
Milford Haven is an
In Welsh, the term Aber is the "pouring out" of a river, hence the description of the confluence of the two rivers and their forming an estuary. Also, Cleddau may make reference to the action of a weapon or tool cutting through the land.[37]
Geography and climate
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The town of Milford Haven lies on the north bank of the Milford Haven Waterway, which is a ria or drowned valley.[40] This is a landscape of low-lying wooded shorelines, creeks and mudflats.[41]
There has been a great deal of loss and degradation of local mudflat habitat as a result of industrial and commercial development – one study indicated a 45 per cent loss in Hubberston Pill.[42]
The town itself has a historic late 18th and 19th centuries core based on a grid pattern, located between Hubberston Pill and Castle Pill and extending inland for 500 metres (1,600 ft). Milford Haven's 20th century expansion took in several other settlements.[43] Hakin and Hubberston are older, and situated to the west of the main town. Steynton is a medieval village to the north, no longer separated due to the expansion of houses. Lower Priory, with the remains of a very early religious Priory, is located in a natural valley near the village of Thornton.
Milford Haven enjoys a mild climate. Its proximity to the coast contributes to wet winters, but it enjoys more sunshine than most of the UK with around 1,600 hours of sunshine a year. This is comparable to much of Southern England. The nearest official Met Office weather station is at Milford Haven Conservancy Board.[39]
Climate data for Milford Haven 44m asl (1981–2010) | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 8.4 (47.1) |
8.2 (46.8) |
9.8 (49.6) |
12.0 (53.6) |
14.9 (58.8) |
17.2 (63.0) |
19.1 (66.4) |
19.0 (66.2) |
17.2 (63.0) |
14.2 (57.6) |
11.2 (52.2) |
9.1 (48.4) |
13.4 (56.1) |
Daily mean °C (°F) | 6.3 (43.3) |
5.9 (42.6) |
7.3 (45.1) |
9.0 (48.2) |
11.7 (53.1) |
14.1 (57.4) |
16.1 (61.0) |
16.1 (61.0) |
14.5 (58.1) |
11.8 (53.2) |
9.0 (48.2) |
6.9 (44.4) |
10.7 (51.3) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 4.1 (39.4) |
3.6 (38.5) |
4.8 (40.6) |
5.9 (42.6) |
8.5 (47.3) |
10.9 (51.6) |
13.0 (55.4) |
13.2 (55.8) |
11.7 (53.1) |
9.4 (48.9) |
6.7 (44.1) |
4.7 (40.5) |
8.0 (46.5) |
Average rainfall mm (inches) | 108.5 (4.27) |
75.0 (2.95) |
79.6 (3.13) |
65.4 (2.57) |
64.7 (2.55) |
64.1 (2.52) |
69.8 (2.75) |
84.3 (3.32) |
86.3 (3.40) |
130.0 (5.12) |
130.1 (5.12) |
117.5 (4.63) |
1,075.2 (42.33) |
Average rainy days (≥ 1.0mm) | 15.7 | 11.6 | 12.6 | 10.9 | 9.5 | 9.4 | 9.8 | 10.2 | 11.4 | 15.7 | 16.1 | 15.0 | 147.7 |
Mean monthly sunshine hours | 59.7 | 83.3 | 116.1 | 185.9 | 216.4 | 196.4 | 202.8 | 194.9 | 147.9 | 107.2 | 63.2 | 51.8 | 1,625.4 |
Source: Met Office[39] |
Governance
Local government
There are two tiers of local government covering Milford Haven, at community (town) and county level: Milford Haven Town Council and Pembrokeshire County Council. Milford Haven Town Council is based at Cemetery Lodge on Thornton Road, Milford Haven.[44]
The community of Milford Haven covers an area of 1,573 hectares (6.07 sq mi)
The six wards comprising Milford Haven community each elect one councillor to Pembrokeshire County Council.[49]
Senedd and Westminster representation
Milford Haven is part of the Preseli Pembrokeshire
Administrative history
When development of the modern town began in the 1790s the area straddled the parishes of
Economy
Milford Haven has experienced a history of boom and slump in shipbuilding, fishing, as a railhead and an ocean terminal.[40] At the height of the fishing boom, it was said that "every day was a pay day".[57] In 1921, 674 people were identified as working in the fishing industry,[58] the leading occupation in the town, followed by transport and communication with 600 employees. However, at peak times, more than 200 trawlers and 2,000 people were required to service the fishing industry.[59] The development of the oil industry also helped to boost the town's fortunes. However, the slumps have been just as severe, the area being scheduled as 'distressed' in the inter-war period.[60] Over-fishing coupled with national economic factors contributed to a significant decline in the fishing industry, resulting in smaller catches and fewer trawlers. By 1972, only twelve trawlers were registered at the port, and 1974 saw industrial and political action to save jobs related to the industry.[33]
During the 1980s and 1990s, the unemployment rate at times topped 30%, and the major industry of oil refining created no more than 2,000 direct or indirect jobs.
International tourism has also increased, with the arrival of transatlantic liners and the revenue they introduce to the town. 2012 saw 3,000 cruise passengers from six cruise vessels disembark at Milford, and the Port Authority expected 5,000 in 2013.
Year | 1890 | 1900 | 1910 | 1920 | 1939 | 1946 | 1950 | 1960 | 1970 | 1980 | 1990 | 2000 | 2010 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Catch (tonnes) | 9,500 | 22,500 | 38,000 | 46,000 | 43,000 | 59,000 | 35,000 | 12,000 | 4,000 | 2,000 | 2,500 | 3,450 | 2,900 | 3,000 |
Fleet | 12 | 65 | 64 | 62 | 109 | n/a | 97 | 27 | n/a | 5 | 7 | n/a | n/a | 2 |
Fishermen | n/a | 520 | n/a | n/a | 1,200 | n/a | 1,000 | 271 | n/a | 35 | 88 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
Source: Bluestone Wales,[73] Milford Fish Docks,[74] National Statistics Sea Fisheries Annual Reports[75] and McKay.[11]
Tourism
Post-war Milford Haven was not considered a promising location for tourism: a 1964 study commissioned by the district council highlighted the lack of nearby beaches, proximity of the town to heavy industrialization, and a shortage of tourist facilities such as restaurants and hotels.[11] However, in the 1980s, a series of steps to beautify certain parts of the town commenced. The outdoor swimming pool, which had remained disused for some years, was transformed into a water-garden and officially opened in 1990 by Margaret Thatcher.
In 1991, the
Transport
The first railway to Milford Haven was with the completion of the South Wales Railway in 1856. Brunel had a vision of connecting London to New York via a railway through Wales and then to a commuter port. The initial plan was to terminate the line at Fishguard and to create a ferry service to Ireland, but after a failure to complete Irish rail links the terminus was changed to New Milford, (Neyland), which was completed in April 1856. The first rail link direct to Milford Haven was completed in 1863, which was originally conceived as a plan to create an impressive Milford to Manchester railway.[81] The trains using the line were operated by Great Western Railway who had part funded the original railway.[82]
.The main road to and from Milford Haven is the
Bus routes passing through the town are operated by independent companies and Pembrokeshire County Council subsidies. Services include a town circular, Haverfordwest and Pembroke Dock.[85] National Express operate services to London, Birmingham and Rochdale via Steynton.[85]
Demography
Population growth in Milford Haven since 1841 | |||||||||||||||||
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Year | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1951 | 1961 | 1971 | 2001 | 2011 | 2021 | |
Population | 2,377 | 2,837 | 3,007 | 2,836 | 3,812 | 4,070 | 5,102 | 6,399 | 7,772 | 10,104 | 11,710 | 12,802 | 13,760 | 13,096 | 13,907 | 14,798 | |
Source: Vision of Britain[28] & Field Studies Journal[25] |
By the 1950s, the fishing industry was in decline, and unemployment in the area had reached 11 per cent. There had been a housing boom however in the years following Second World War. The District Council took advantage of recently lifted restrictions, and built over 1,000 new homes to accommodate the rising population.[11] "A new wave of hope however arrived with the prospect of a booming oil industry. The industry however was not labour-intensive, and did not provide huge labour opportunities for locals, in the 1970s employing only 2,000 workers."[86] The nature of large construction projects meant that workers were attracted from outside the local area, and the decline of the fishing industry was to a certain extent masked. However, this employment was not permanent. On completing the construction of construction projects such as the Esso refinery and the Cleddau Bridge, those who decided to relocate to the town were faced with what the Preseli District Council called in 1977 "the area's serious unemployment problem".[11]
Milford Haven is not ethnically diverse, with 96.4 per cent[87] of people identifying themselves as white, compared with 99.2 per cent in 2001.[88] 92.9 per cent of people in Milford Central ward were born in the UK, and only 3.8 per cent of residents arrived later than 2001.[89] 96.3 per cent of residents claim English as their first language.[90] 1.5 per cent of residents identify as having religious views other than any denomination of Christianity, including no religion.[91]
Welsh language
Milford Haven is located within the geographical and historic area known as
Architecture
Architecture in Milford Haven can be divided into roughly three broad periods of building. The number of buildings which pre-date the town's official foundation in 1790 are scarce. These include the medieval priory,[96] and a 12th-century 'beacon chapel'.[97]
The initial phase of construction from the late 18th century is located in the area central to the town, the three parallel streets of Hamilton Terrace, Charles Street And Robert Street.[11] Three-storey Georgian domestic and commercial properties are set along the northern side of the main road through the town, and overlook the harbour and waterway.[96]
By the late 19th century, the land directly above this central area was being developed. To house the growing population, rows of
Landmarks
The attractions in the town include Fort Hubberstone, built in 1863 to defend the Haven as part of the recommendations of the Royal Commission on the Defence of the United Kingdom. Located in Gelliswick bay, it occupies a prominent position to the west of the town overlooking the Haven. Previously owned by Milford Haven Port Authority, the site is not currently open to the public, and has been the scene of non-fatal injuries to trespassers.[102] In 2011 it was named as the fifth most endangered archaeological site in the UK by British Archaeology magazine.[103][104] The ruins of an observatory, originally intended to be part of "The College of King George the Third founded at Milford", can be found in Hakin. Construction of the building was abandoned in 1809. Milford Haven Museum, located centrally in the docks area, is housed in the town's oldest building, the Custom House which dates back to 1797. Designed by Swansea architect, Jernigan, it was built for the storage of whale oil awaiting shipment for sale in London.[105]
The Rath is a landscaped street on high ground, with panoramic views of the Haven. The land was used in the 18th century as a
Culture and community
The
The Milford & West Wales Mercury weekly newspaper covered the Milford Haven and West Pembrokeshire area. It was founded in 1992 and following a merger of its editorial team with that of the Western Telegraph, its local office was closed in 2008.[117] A second newspaper, The Pembrokeshire Herald, covers the Milford Haven and surrounding areas. The town is also home to several charities, including PATCH and Gwalia.
Milford Haven is
Literature, film and television
Milford Haven appears in a number of literary works, including Shakespeare's Cymbeline as "blessed Milford",[5] and the location where King Arthur landed from Ireland in pursuit of the Twrch Trwyth boar as part of the medieval Welsh prose romance Culhwch and Olwen.[119] Drayton described the area in his Poly-Olbion as "So highly Milford is in every mouth renowned / Noe haven hath aught good, in her that is not found".[120] Lewis Morris made Milford and Hakin the subject of his poem "The Fishing Lass of Hakin",[121] and the gothic novel The Horrors of Oakendale Abbey used Milford as a key location.[122] The town lends its name to the fictional Californian location featured in the novelisations and radio plays by author Mara Purl.[123] Robert Watson uses the town as the principal setting in his novel Slipping Away From Milford,[124] as did Taprell Dorling writing as Taffrail, whose thriller Mystery at Milford Haven explored the 1930s criminal underworld in the area.[125] The town was used as a filming location for the BBC drama The Onedin Line,[126] the 1968 film The Lion in Winter[127] and the 1984 short cult film "Vengeance".[128][129] The town's Mount Estate provided the location for a BBC documentary entitled The Mount: A Welsh Estate, which received criticism locally for its portrayal of residents.[130][131] Locations in the town, including Hakin Point and Gelliswick, were used in filming for The Pembrokeshire Murders in 2020.[132]
Sport and leisure
The town possesses a number of venues for sport and leisure. Milford Haven Leisure Centre offers various facilities, including a 25-metre indoor swimming pool, squash and tennis courts, a bowls hall and a dance studio.
Milford Marina, the site of the former working docks, was re-branded in 1991 and offers retail facilities, the town museum and entertainment. The Marina itself houses 360 berths for private boats.[136]
A greyhound racing track existed in the Hakin area of the town during the 1940s. It was located west of Picton Street on the Observatory ground (Rugby ground today). The regularity of the racing in unknown but it is known that the racing was independent, which means unaffiliated to the sports governing body at the time (the National Greyhound Racing Club).[137]
Education
Primary and pre-school education in Milford Haven is served by six state infant and primary schools and St Francis, a Roman Catholic primary school. Milford Haven town is served by junior, Infant, and nursery schools. Hakin pupils can attend Hakin Community School, an amalgamation of the former Hakin Junior School and Hakin Infants and Nursery Schools and the voluntarily controlled Hubberston Church in Wales VC Nursery and Primary.
The MITEC School of Boatbuilding & Marine Engineering, a branch of Pembrokeshire College located in Milford Docks, offers courses in boatbuilding and marine engineering.[140]
Places of worship
At the
The first religious building raised after Milford Haven was founded was St. Katharine's and St. Peter's, an Anglican church, it is considered to be the town's parish church due to its central position within the town and the fact that it was built by Charles Francis Greville the founder of Milford Haven.[141] Other Anglican buildings include St. David's in Hubberston, St. Mary's (1927) and the Church of the Holy Spirit (1971) in Hakin and St. Peter's and St. Cewydd's in Steynton. St. David's is a Norman church and is believed to be the oldest building in Milford still in regular use.[141] St. Mary's was built in 1927 largely by funds from the local residents of Hakin.[141]
In 2000, the church of St. Clare's in Hakin closed, leaving one
Members of both the Methodist and United Reformed Churches now worship at Christ Church in Priory Road, formerly known as Priory Road Methodist Church, which was opened in 1902. In recent years the church has drawn together the Methodist Churches in Milford Haven, Hakin Point and Waterston as well as Tabernacle URC to form a new
International relations
Twin towns - sister cities
Notable people
One of the earliest notable figures from the Milford Haven area is
Performing artists from Milford Haven include
Alfred W. Szlumper was born in Milford in 1858. He was the Chief Engineer of the London and South Western Railway, overseeing the remodelling of Clapham Junction railway station and the reconstruction of London Waterloo station. He was later appointed Chief Engineer of Southern Railway.[162] Tailor and fashion designer
Milford Haven is also connected to notable military figures, such as
Milford Haven is the birthplace of serial killer John Cooper, who in 2011 was convicted of murdering siblings Richard and Helen Thomas at their Scoveston home near Steynton in 1985, and Peter and Gwenda Dixon on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path near Little Haven in 1989.[179][180] He was additionally convicted of the rape of a teenager and assault of four others in woodland near the town's Mount Estate in 1996.[181]
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- Rees, James Frederick (1954). The Story of Milford. Cardiff: University of Wales Press.
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- Warburton, Jack (1994). Milford Haven in Old Picture Postcards. Netherlands: Zaltbommel. ISBN 90-288-2769-2.
- Fowler, John Coke (1868). An Essay on the Advantages of Milford Haven As A Commercial Port of National Importance. Carmarthen: Welshman Office. ISBN 978-1248085561.
- Miles, Dilwyn (1984). Portrait of Pembrokeshire. London: Robert Hale Ltd. ISBN 0-7090-2004-X.
- The Secret Waterway: A Guide to the Milford Haven and Daugleddau Waterway. Haverfordwest: West Wales Maritime Heritage Society, C.I. Thomas Ltd. 1988. ISBN 0-9512846-0-6.
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{{cite book}}
:|work=
ignored (help)CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) - Allen, Richard C. (2010). "Nantucket Quakers and the Milford Haven Whaling Industry, C. 1791–1821". Quaker Studies. 15 (1): 6–31. .
- George, Barbara J. (1964). "Pembrokeshire sea-trading before 1900" (PDF). Field Studies Journal. 1 (3). Retrieved 20 July 2017.
External links
- Milford Haven travel guide from Wikivoyage
- Milford Haven Town Council
- Milford Haven Town Council Pembrokeshire County Council site
- Milford Haven Port Authority
- Milford Waterfront
- Milford Haven 1947 Film of the history of the town's foundation