Morning dress

morning coats with formal trousers

, known as morning dress

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v t e

Morning dress, also known as formal day dress, is the

.

Morning dress is generally restricted to certain weddings, royal, governmental or municipal

.

History

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Vanity Fair

, 11 September 1869

The name originated from the practice of gentlemen in the 19th century riding a horse in the morning with a cutaway front, single breasted

in American English), but as it took over from the frock coat in formality it began to be made with the more formal pointed lapels (peaked lapels in American English).

Composition

Morning dress consists of:

• a morning coat (the morning cut of tailcoat), now always single breasted with link closure (as on some dinner jackets) or one button (or very rarely two) and with pointed lapels, may include silk piping on the edges of the coat and lapels (and cuffs on older models with turnup coat sleeves).
• a waistcoat, which matches the material of the coat.
• a pair of
  braces
  .
• a shirt:
  • either a turndown collar is worn (white
    double cuffs
    .
  • otherwise, a high detachable wing collar is worn with a double-cuffed shirt; this combination is sometimes accompanied now by a formal Ascot, as opposed to a day cravat which is different. This is a more formal option most commonly seen at weddings;
• a plain or patterned silk handkerchief or pocket square may be worn; it is folded and inserted into the front breast pocket of the morning coat.
• black
  galosh
  -top dress boots; worn with plain dark socks (or another colour if they cannot be seen).

If the trouser cloth matches the coat, the ensemble becomes a morning suit. The waistcoat may also match, or not (an "odd waistcoat"). Morning suits will sometimes be a middle-tone grey. Morning suits, especially the lighter-toned ones, are considered slightly less formal than morning coat ensembles.

The following can optionally be worn or carried with morning dress:

• a top hat, either classic silk plush, or a modern Melusine fur (replacement for silk plush, as it is no longer in mainstream manufacture). Alternatively, a top hat made of fur felt or wool felt, is another common option.
• gloves of suede, chamois, or kid
  leather; the most traditional colour is lemon or grey
• grey or white
  spats
• a cane or umbrella
• a
  wrist watch
• a boutonnière

Considered slightly less formal by some, a morning suit can be worn in variant sometimes referred to as "morning grey dress", which has mid-grey matching morning coat, waistcoat, and trousers (all cut the same as above); being more relaxed, this is a traditional option for events in less formal settings such as

, and is now often worn to weddings as well.

Morning coat

The modern morning coat is single-breasted and usually has peaked lapels.^[10] It is usually closed with a single button^[10] but may have a link-front closure instead.^[11][12] It is traditionally in either black or Oxford grey^[13][14] herringbone wool,^[1] which should not be too heavy a weight,^[14] with curved front edges sloping back into tails^[1][12] of knee length.^[15]

The coat may feature ribbon braiding around the edges of the collar, lapels, and down around the tails;^[16] it may also be present on the hook vent, breast pocket, and sleeves.^[17] Nicholas Storey advises that braiding should be avoided for very formal morning wear.^[18]

Waistcoat

A black morning coat with matching black waistcoat is the most formal option,

, or in government use in America.

At social or festive occasions, such as horse races and weddings, a contrasting waistcoat is usually worn. The most traditional colours are dove grey,^[24] light grey^[1][25] (including pearl grey^[13][4]), buff^[1][25] or camel^[26] (both yellowish tan colours), duck-egg blue,^[1] and occasionally white.^[27][28] There has been a tendency towards 'fancy' waistcoats^[1][25] of multicoloured and embroidered materials such as brocade,^[26] especially at weddings,^[1] although brightly coloured waistcoats may be considered garish.^[29] Other colours sold by traditional English tailors include pastels such as powder blue, pale pink, pale green, and other pastels.^[30] Generally, traditional waistcoats are made from linen, silk,^[1][26] or wool.^[27]

Waistcoats may be either single-breasted, with or without lapels, or double-breasted with lapels.^[1] Single-breasted models with lapels usually feature a step collar and are worn with the bottom button undone, whilst double-breasted models commonly have either a shawl collar or a peak lapel and are worn fully buttoned.^[1] In either case, Debrett's advise against wearing backless waistcoats^[1] because they do not look as smart as real ones.^[26] Sometimes a white slip is worn, which is a strip of fabric buttoned to the inside top of the waistcoat^[18] to simulate the effect of a paler under-waistcoat,^[31] though the actual wearing of two waistcoats was obsolete even for the late Victorians.

Trousers

Hamide Ayşe Sultan (1887–1960) with her husband in morning coat and formal trousers

The

amongst others.

Shirt

Since the Second World War, in the United Kingdom and Commonwealth Realms, the traditional shirt for morning dress has been a white or light-coloured shirt with double cuffs (fastened with cufflinks) and a plain white stiff turn-down collar (often of the cutaway variety^[36]) worn with a long tie.^[1] A detachable collar is no longer considered to be necessary and is very formal by modern standards.^[26]

Alternatively, a wing collar may be worn; the combination of long tie and wing collar is very dated, so these are instead paired with an ascot.^[12][37] Unfortunately, this combination has acquired negative connotations because most dress hire companies have used pre-tied or incorrect patterns for many years, which has caused the configuration to be seen as an inferior or hired look. Consequently, Debrett's (and the late Hardy Amies) consider the wing collar and ascot to be inappropriate for weddings or morning dress,^[38] reserving wing collars for white tie.^{[39][40][41][1]}

If a wing collar is worn, the collar should be of the starched, detachable, variety and also include starched single cuffs (secured with cufflinks) all in white. This is because, in the past, a starched stiff-fronted shirt was worn with starched cuffs and a starched detachable wing collar, worn with cufflinks and shirt studs; it is essentially the same as a plain-fronted (rather than Marcella) full evening dress shirt.^[36] Contemporary shirts often do not have a detachable collar at all which, provided they have the same height and stiffness as the detachable type, are considered to be an acceptable alternative.^[26]

The most formal colour for a shirt is white. Alternatively, a coloured or striped shirt with a contrasting white ("Winchester") collar and (optionally) white cuffs may be worn. Traditional formal shirtings are usually light-coloured^[1] and may include cream, blue (such as Wedgwood blue), pink,^[26] lavender, peach, salmon, yellow, or pastel green.^[42] Morning dress shirts (other than the collar) are usually solid in colour^[26] or have thin vertical stripes^[37] but may have a slightly bolder pattern such as a houndstooth or glencheck.^[43]

Neck wear

Previously, a grey or (if at a funeral) a black necktie was obligatory. Now all colours are worn; in many clubs and societies the club tie is acceptable to distinguish members from guests at formal lunches and breakfasts. The original silver Macclesfield design (a small check) is still used particularly with cravats, and is often called a wedding tie. Wearing a silver-grey silk tie is the usual practice at royal^[5] and other formal events.^[27][25] Although there is no longer a strict rule governing the colour and pattern of ties that are worn to weddings these days, garish options are inadvisable.^[26] The English etiquette authority, Debrett's, dictate that smart woven silk ties are preferred to cravats^[1] although stocks and cravats may be worn as an alternative.^[26] The American etiquette authority, The Emily Post Institute, states that either a tie or a dress ascot may be worn with a morning coat.^[13] If a tie is worn, Debrett's advise men to tie it with either a four-in-hand or half-Windsor rather than a Windsor knot.^[44]

If worn, cravats may be tied in either a formal dress knot (Ascot knot) which is secured with a cravat pin^[12] or a slightly less formal ruched knot which resembles a four-in-hand tie. A wing collar and cravat may be worn with a black coat but not with a grey one.^[11] Cravats have been proscribed in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot since 2012^[45] and should therefore be treated with caution in any context in the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms.

Footwear

Shoes should be of the traditional, highly polished black plain cap-toe

Accessories

Headgear

Lord Weardale. While the top hat would be considered the standard, alternatives occur; here a bowler hat

.

In the Commonwealth of Nations, traditional black, or grey (less formal, but becoming more widely accepted), top hats are considered an optional accessory for weddings.^[1][53] However, hats remain compulsory in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot.^[54][45]

Pocket square

A

. However, although it is very common practice in wedding parties, many style authorities do not recommend wearing a matching (i.e., identical) pocket square and tie, as it tends to look contrived, draws attention away from the wearer's face, and displays sartorial uncertainty. Pocket squares with a solid colour should generally be paired with a patterned tie (and vice versa) and should not share the same base colour. In other words, the solid color item should be in a color that is not the dominant color of the other.

It may be puffed or folded into a square, single-point, or multi-pointed style folds. Puffed pocket squares work well with softer materials such as silk; other folds tend to hold their shape better when more structured materials such as linen are used.

Decorations

The wearing of

Etiquette: "morning dress"

Men wear morning dress when members of a wedding party. In common with

, morning dress is for prestigious and important social occasions. Despite its name, morning dress may be worn to afternoon social events before five o'clock, but not to events beginning after six o'clock in the evening; the term "morning" is best understood as "daylight".

In Europe, the groom sets the sartorial tone: the guests may wear morning dress if he does.

Equivalents for men

Following the etiquette of formal wear, morning dress being its civilian day wear, there are several equivalents.

White tie is the correct, equivalent formal dress for evening social events. The cutaway front of the morning tail coat differs from the evening tail coat (dress coat) in that the waist of the former is cut obliquely while the waist of the latter is cut horizontally, and the tail is cut differently from the swallow tailcoat used for evening dress. The skirt waist construction of the coats is equestrian in origin, to ease the wearer's riding his horse.

Equivalents for women

Women should wear 'smart daywear', such as a smart day dress or a skirt worn with a jacket.^[1] The straps of tops and dresses should be at least one inch wide even if worn with a jacket or other covering.^[56] Strapless, off-the-shoulder, one shoulder, halter neck, sheer, bardot, and spaghetti straps are not permitted in the Royal Enclosure at the Royal Ascot^[56] and may be inadvisable at other occasions that require morning dress. Dresses and skirts should be neither too short nor too revealing.^[1] At their shortest, they should fall just above the knee.^[56]

Trouser suits and smart jumpsuits are permissible at the Royal Ascot but must be ankle length. With trouser suits, the coat and trousers should match in both material and colour. Jumpsuits must also comply with the regulations that apply to skirts and dresses.^[56]

At the most formal of occasions and the races, dresses and skirts should be worn with a tailored jacket.^[1] A bolero, shrug, or pashmina may otherwise be worn.^[1] Daytime shoes, such as wedges, should be worn rather than very high heels or evening-style shoes^[1] and ought to be comfortable enough to wear for several hours.^[57] Tights should always be worn.^[1]

Hats should be worn in the Royal Enclosure at the Royal Ascot^[56] but are optional at weddings.^[1] They should be a style that is securely fitted and may be worn throughout the day.^[1] Hats should neither be so large or cumbersome that they hamper kissing^[57] nor too small. The Royal Ascot does not permit fascinators within the Royal Enclosure.^[56] Headpieces may be worn instead of a hat but must have a solid base of at least 10 cm.^[56]

Daytime jewellery, such as pearls, add an extra flourish of style.^[1]

A shoulder bag is often preferable to a clutch purse, especially for mothers at weddings.^[57]

Contemporary use

Catholic Procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges, Belgium

(2009)

Commonwealth of Nations

Morning dress remains somewhat common at weddings in the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth of Nations countries (such as Australia, and New Zealand), usually worn only by male members of a wedding party but sometimes by guests as well. Men at upper and upper-middle class weddings usually wear their own morning coats and their own ties. On these occasions they may wear their old public school ties (known as private schools in the US). For the British working class (constituting the majority of the population), a wedding party tends to wear hired morning suits that are co-ordinated, the men usually dressed in outfits of identical ties, handkerchiefs and waistcoats.^[58]

Additionally, morning dress may be seen at some royal or governmental

United States

In the U.S., the

In the U.S., morning dress is rare.

By tradition, the

Morning dress has recurred in the traditional Easter parade associated with Fifth Avenue in New York City.

Gallery

• 
  Morning dress with grosgrain lapels, matching black

  turn-down collar and cuffs, and striped formal trousers

  . The characteristic angle of the cutaway front of the skirt is clearly visible, as is the waist seam. (May 1901)
• 
  William Walker, 1st Baron Wavertree caricatured by "Spy" (Leslie Ward) in Vanity Fair, June 1906
• 
  Racegoers in morning dress at

  Royal Ascot, England, before World War I
• 
  Transjordan prime minister

  Rashid Tali'a in morning dress with fez

  (circa 1921)
• 
  Brazilian president Washington Luís in morning dress with top hat during a military ceremony (late 1920s−early 1930s).
• 
  Men in morning grey suits at the races in Australia, in 1937
• 
  Morning dress on the Lord

  Catholic procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges, Belgium

  (2007)

See also

• The
  lounge suit
  (indeed, in Britain it was historically referred to as a "black lounge suit").

Notes

Bibliography

• Apparel Arts magazine, an account of 1930s fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with comment at The London Lounge
  .
• Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit. London: Quartet Books Ltd.
  ISBN 978-0-7043-7169-9
  .
• Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style.
  ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2
  .
• Bryant, Jo; Wyse, Liz, eds. (2012). Debrett's Men's Style. Richmond, Surrey: Debrett's Limited.
  ISBN 978-1-870520-00-3
  .
• Donald, Elsie, ed. (1981). Debrett's Etiquette and Modern Manners. London: Debrett's Peerage Limited.
  ISBN 0-905649-43-5
  .
• ISBN 978-0-06-019144-3
  .
• Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook.
  ISBN 978-0-9929348-4-2
  .
• Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson.
  ISBN 0-297-79191-5
  .
• Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis (1973). Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950. London: Faber and Faber Limited.
  ISBN 0-571-09507-0
  .
• Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie (2014). Emily Post's Wedding Etiquette (6 ed.). New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-06-232610-2
  .
• Post, Peggy; Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie; Post Senning, Daniel (2011). Emily Post's Etiquette. New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-06-174023-7
  .
• Pullman, Nigel. "Dress codes" (PDF). Livery Companies of the City of London. Retrieved 17 October 2018.
• Roetzel, Bernhard (2009). Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion. Cambridge: Tandem Verlag GmbH.
  ISBN 978-3-8331-5270-2
  .
• Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC.
• Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing. Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd.
  ISBN 978-1-84468-037-5
  .
• Tuckerman, Nancy; Dunnan, Nancy (1995). The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette: 50th Anniversary Edition (1 ed.). New York: Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group Inc.
  ISBN 978-0-385413428
  .
• Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook.
  ISBN 978-0-9929348-1-1
  .

External links

Media related to Morning dress at Wikimedia Commons

• Morning Dress Guide – Informational site dedicated to formal morning dress only
• Informational overview of Morning Wear by the Black Tie Guide
• "The Morning Dress Guide," Andrews & Pygott