North Cascades

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North Cascades
Canadian Cascades
Mount Shuksan, one of the most picturesque peaks of the North Cascades
Highest point
PeakMount Baker
Elevation3,286 m (10,781 ft)
Dimensions
Length434.5 km (270.0 mi) North-South
Width241 km (150 mi) East-West
Geography
Location map of the North Cascades and the Canadian Cascades
CountriesCanada and United States
Province/StateBritish Columbia and Washington
Parent rangeCascade Range
Borders onLillooet Ranges, Skagit Range

The North Cascades are a section of the Cascade Range of western North America. They span the border between the Canadian province of British Columbia and the U.S. state of Washington and are officially named in the U.S. and Canada[1] as the Cascade Mountains.[2] The portion in Canada is known to Americans as the Canadian Cascades, a designation that also includes the mountains above the east bank of the Fraser Canyon as far north as the town of Lytton, at the confluence of the Thompson and Fraser Rivers.

They are predominantly non-volcanic, but include the stratovolcanoes Mount Baker, Glacier Peak and Coquihalla Mountain, which are part of the Cascade Volcanic Arc.

Geography

The U.S. section of the North Cascades and the adjoining

alpine meadows, as is also the case with the eastern flank of the US portion of the range. Portions of the US side of the range are protected as part of North Cascades National Park
.

Typical landscape in the western part of the North Cascades

The large amount of

precipitation, much of it in the form of snow, and the resulting glaciation, combine with the regional uplift to create a dramatic landscape in the western part of the range. Deep, U-shaped valleys carved by glaciers in Pleistocene
time separate sharp ridges and peaks carved into steep shapes by more recent snow and ice.

The eastern and northernmost parts of the range are much more plateau-like in character, though in the case of the northernmost areas graven by deep valleys along the flank of the Fraser Canyon, notably that of the Anderson River.

Extent

The North Cascades are considered the most rugged mountain range in the contiguous United States.

The

Chuckanut Drive between Bellingham and Mount Vernon
, where they abut the Sound directly.

Glacier Peak is the dominant feature in the southern portion of the North Cascades.

The southern boundary of the North Cascades is less definite. For the purposes of this article, it will be taken as

Cascade Alpine Guide[3] and the definition used by Peakbagger.com.[4] Sometimes the southern boundary is defined by Snoqualmie Pass and the approximate route of Interstate 90.[5] Sometimes the term "North Cascades" or "northern Cascades" is used for the entire range north of the Columbia River.[6]

Geologically, the rocks of the North Cascades extend south beyond Stevens Pass and west into the San Juan Islands. The significance of the geologic transitions to the Okanagan Highland to the east and the Interior Plateau and Coast Mountains to the north are less agreed upon.[7]

Climate

The

semi-arid in the eastern lowlands.[9][10] As with most mountainous areas, precipitation increases dramatically with increasing elevation. As a result, there is a great deal of winter snow and glaciation
in the high North Cascades.

The eastern slopes and mountain passes can receive significant snowfall. Cold Arctic air can flow south from

Cold air damming causes this Arctic air to bank up along the eastern Cascade slopes, especially into the lower passes, such as Snoqualmie Pass and Stevens Pass. The milder, Pacific-influenced air moving east over the Cascades is often forced aloft by the cold air held in place in the passes due to cold air damming. As a result, the passes often receive more snow than higher areas in the Cascades. This effect makes the relatively low elevation ski resorts at Snoqualmie Pass (about 3,000 feet (910 m)) and Stevens Pass (about 4,000 feet (1,200 m)) possible.[11]

Subranges

The Picket Range, located north of Hwy 20, is the most rugged subrange of the North Cascades.
Entiat Mountains

Notable peaks

The following North Cascades peaks are notable for their height (absolute elevation):

Mountain Height Coordinates Prominence Parent mountain First ascent
(ft) (m) (ft) (m)
Mount Baker 10,778 3,285 48°46′N 121°48′W / 48.767°N 121.800°W / 48.767; -121.800 8,881 2,707 Mount Rainier 1868 by Edmund T. Coleman and party
Glacier Peak 10,541 3,213 48°6′45.05″N 121°6′49.70″W / 48.1125139°N 121.1138056°W / 48.1125139; -121.1138056 7,501 2,286 Mount Rainier 1898 by Thomas Gerdine
Bonanza Peak 9,511 2,899 48°14′16″N 120°51′58″W / 48.23778°N 120.86611°W / 48.23778; -120.86611 3,711 1,131 Glacier Peak 1937 by Curtis James, Barrie James, Joe Leuthold
Mount Fernow 9,249 2,819 48°09′44″N 120°48′30″W / 48.16222°N 120.80833°W / 48.16222; -120.80833 2,809 856 Bonanza Peak 1932 by Oscar Pennington, Hermann Ulrichs
Goode Mountain 9,220 2,810 48°28′58″N 120°54′39″W / 48.48278°N 120.91083°W / 48.48278; -120.91083 3,800 1,200 Bonanza Peak 1936 by Wolf Bauer, Philip Dickett, Joe Halwax, Jack Hossack, George MacGowan

(The above table uses a topographic prominence cutoff of 1,000 feet (300 m), in order to list only highly independent peaks.)

Mount Baker with Boulder Glacier in foreground.

The following peaks are notable for their topographic prominence:

Mountain Height Prominence Parent mountain
(ft) (m) (ft) (m)
Mount Baker 10,778 3,285 8,881 2,707 Mount Rainier
Glacier Peak 10,541 3,213 7,501 2,286 Mount Rainier
Round Mountain 5,320 1,620 4,780 1,460 Three Fingers
Mount Spickard 8,979 2,737 4,779 1,457 Mount Baker
Welch Peak 7,976 2,431 4,728 1,441 Robinson Mountain
Three Fingers 6,850 2,090 4,490 1,370 Glacier Peak
Mount Shuksan[12] 9,131 2,783 4,411 1,344 Mount Baker
Remmel Mountain 8,684 2,647 4,370 1,330 Mount Lago
Mount Prophet 7,650 2,330 4,080 1,240 Luna Peak
Mount Outram 8,074 2,461 3,678 1,121 Hozomeen Mountain
Mount Lago 8,743 2,665 3,300 1,000 Silver Star Mountain

The following peaks are notable for their large, steep rise above local terrain. Peaks are listed in descending order by elevation.

Jack Mountain
Hozomeen Mountain from Hozomeen Lake
Mountain Height
(ft) (m)
Mount Baker 10,778 3,285
Glacier Peak 10,541 3,213
Goode Mountain 9,220 2,810
Mount Shuksan 9,127 2,782
Jack Mountain 9,066 2,763
North Gardner Mountain 8,956 2,730
Mount Redoubt 8,956 2,730
Eldorado Peak 8,876 2,705
Luna Peak 8,311 2,533
Johannesburg Mountain 8,220 2,510
Agnes Mountain 8,115 2,473
Hozomeen Mountain 8,066 2,459
Slesse Mountain 8,002 2,439
American Border Peak 7,994 2,437
Mount Blum 7,680 2,340
Sloan Peak 7,835 2,388
Colonial Peak 7,771 2,369
Mount Triumph 7,270 2,220
Pugh Mountain
7,201 2,195
Davis Peak 7,051 2,149
Whitehorse Mountain 6,850 2,090
Baring Mountain 6,125 1,867

Highest waterfalls

The North Cascades are known for having many extremely tall glacial-fed waterfalls; the ten highest measured waterfalls are listed.[13]

Waterfall Height Stream Location Coordinates
(ft) (m)
Colonial Creek Falls 2,584 788 Colonial Creek Diablo Lake 48°40′13″N 121°08′26″W / 48.67023°N 121.14044°W / 48.67023; -121.14044
Johannesburg Falls 2,465 751 Unnamed Below Johannesburg Peak, near Mount Torment 48°28′36″N 121°05′29″W / 48.47655°N 121.09132°W / 48.47655; -121.09132
Sulphide Creek Falls 2,182 665 Sulphide Creek Eastern boundary of North Cascades National Park 48°47′47″N 121°34′32″W / 48.79647°N 121.57563°W / 48.79647; -121.57563
Silver Lake Falls 2,128 649 Silver Creek Near Mount Spickard in North Cascades National Park 48°59′21″N 121°13′22″W / 48.98917°N 121.22278°W / 48.98917; -121.22278
Blum Basin Falls 1,680 510 Blum Creek Below Mount Blum 48°44′01″N 121°30′09″W / 48.73368°N 121.50263°W / 48.73368; -121.50263
Boston Creek Falls 1,627 496 Boston Creek Near
North Fork Cascade River
48°29′35″N 121°04′32″W / 48.49298°N 121.07549°W / 48.49298; -121.07549
Torment Falls 1,583 482 Torment Creek Near
North Fork Cascade River
48°29′50″N 121°06′22″W / 48.49719°N 121.10602°W / 48.49719; -121.10602
Green Lake Falls 979 298 Unnamed fork of Bacon Creek Near Green Lake in North Cascades National Park 48°41′34″N 121°29′34″W / 48.69271°N 121.49285°W / 48.69271; -121.49285
Depot Creek Falls 967 295 Depot Creek Near Mount Redoubt, North Cascades National Park 48°58′38″N 121°17′05″W / 48.97732°N 121.28477°W / 48.97732; -121.28477
Rainy Lake Falls 800 240 Unnamed Rainy Lake, Okanogan–Wenatchee National Forest 48°29′49″N 120°44′45″W / 48.49694°N 120.74583°W / 48.49694; -120.74583

Many tall waterfalls occur where meltwater from mountain glaciers drop down a

Seahpo Peak Falls, despite its great height at nearly 2,200 feet (670 m), is an example of one of these waterfalls. A few notable exceptions do occur; Sulphide Creek Falls occurs where meltwaters from two of the largest Mount Shuksan glaciers are forced through a narrow chute over a 2,183-foot (665 m) headwall at the head of Sulphide Valley
.

Geology

The bulk of the North Cascades consists of "deformed and

strike-slip movement on this fault in the past, with similar rocks on either side of the fault separated by dozens of miles. This is thought to be related to northward tectonic movement of the West Coast relative to the rest of North America.[16]

Since about 35 million years ago,

intrusions composed of diorite and gabbro.[16][17] The current uplift of the Cascade Range began around 8 million years ago.[18]

Northern flank of Coquihalla Mountain

Rocks similar to those in the North Cascades continue north to the vicinity of Mount Meager massif in the Coast Mountains, where they abut the Stikinia Terrane of the Omineca-Intermontane Province that dominates the Interior Plateau of British Columbia. This geologic similarity between the North Cascades and Coast Mountains results in a fairly arbitrary boundary between the two.

In British Columbia, the western geologic boundary of the North Cascades is defined as the

Puget Lowlands in the west, although there are significant westward extensions of rocks similar in origin to those in the North Cascades found in the San Juan Islands.[7]

The eastern geologic boundary of the North Cascades may be marked by the Chewack-Pasayten Fault. This fault separates the easternmost portion of the North Cascades, the Methow Terrane, from the Quesnellia Terrane, one of the

Omineca and Intermontane Belts. The fault also separates the Methow River valley, part of the Methow Terrane, from the Okanagan Range, part of the Quesnellia Terrane. The Columbia River Basalt Group
bounds the North Cascades to the southeast.

The southern limit of what is geologically considered the "North Cascades" may variously be defined as being the southern limit of exposure of igneous and metamorphic terranes which is generally north of Snoqualmie Pass, Snoqualmie Pass itself, or Naches Pass at the White River Fault Zone.[7][19]

Glaciers

Mount Baker and the upper Coleman Glacier

While

water managers in the region, as the glaciers (and the winter snowpack) form a large reservoir of water. As snow and ice melts in the summer, the resulting meltwater
compensates for the seasonal decrease in precipitation. As glaciers retreat they will provide less summer runoff.

The Cascades north of Snoqualmie Pass have 756 glaciers covering 103 square miles (270 km2) of terrain. For comparison, the entire contiguous United States has about 1,100 glaciers in total, covering 205 square miles (530 km2).[22]

Ecology

Mountain Hemlock
above Lower Thornton Lake

The North Cascades has a diversity of plant species.

Douglas-fir.[25]

The range also has a rich diversity of animals, including

mountain lions and black bears.[23] The range is home to at least 75 species of mammals and 200 species of birds that either pass through or use the North Cascades for a breeding area. There are also 11 species of fish on the west side of the Cascades.[23] Examples of amphibian species occurring in the North Cascades include the western toad (Bufo boreas) and the rough-skinned newt (Taricha granulosa).[26]

The biodiversity of the area is threatened by

reed canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea).[27]

History

Big log in the North Cascades, 1937

On the United States side of the border, early inhabitants of the North Cascades included the

Sto:lo and the Upper and Lower Similkameen subgroups of the Okanagan. A now-extinct group known as the Nicola Athapaskans also inhabited and hunted in the area now occupied by the Similkameen. Many current geographic names in the region are derived from native terms, either by transliteration or translation. Beckey notes that "Many names were derived from Chinook Jargon, mostly applied by the United States Forest Service from 1910 to 1940...."[28]

railroad
routes (none of which were viable north of the one eventually put in over Stevens Pass, at the southern edge of the North Cascades) and various mining rushes.

Klawatti Glacier, North Cascades National Park (1969)

Miners dominated the exploration and development of the range from the 1880s through the early 20th century. For example, mines around the boomtown of

Colony of British Columbia to affirm British possession of territories north of the 49th Parallel. The Fraser rush led to exploration of the Cascades to the east of the canyon and in the valley of the Similkameen River, with minor rushes in the area of Princeton, British Columbia in 1859 through the early 1860s and the creation of non-native towns (on top of much older native ones) at Boston Bar, Lytton and Hope
, as well as Princeton.

Early settlers also arrived in the foothills of the North Cascades in the latter half of the 19th century, and utilized the range in a limited way as a source of timber and grazing land. However, the range is so rugged that this exploitation was less dramatic than in other more gentle landscapes.

Early recreational use of the range included expeditions by the local

The Mazamas. These groups did not fully explore the inner reaches of the range and ascend the most difficult peaks until the 1930s and 1940s. It was not until the 1970s, that most peaks were climbed in the most isolated areas, making it one of the last explored ranges in the contiguous United States.[citation needed
]

Climbing

The North Cascades are often referred as the "American Alps" by hikers, climbers and mountaineers because of the sea of steep, jagged peaks that span across the range. This range's rugged approaches and exceptional alpine terrain make it a premiere training ground for mountain climbers.[32]

Protected areas

Chief among the protected areas in Washington is

wilderness areas
in the range include:

In British Columbia, protected areas include

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Government of Canada, Natural Resources Canada. "Place names - Search Results". rncan.gc.ca. Retrieved April 11, 2018.
  2. ^ "Cascade Mountains". BC Geographical Names.
  3. ^ Beckey 2000, p. 18
  4. ^ "North Cascades". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved September 17, 2010.
  5. Archive-It
    , U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Western Ecology Division
  6. ^ Beckey 2003b, pp. 7–8
  7. ^ .
  8. ^ "Thunderstorms light up the skies over Puget Sound". KOMO News, Fisher Communications. 2012.
  9. ^ Mathews 1988, pp. 557–562
  10. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 12
  11. .
  12. ^ "Mount Shuksan, Washington". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved September 16, 2010.
  13. ^ "Showing All Waterfalls In Washington". Bryan Swan and Dean Goss. World Waterfall Database. Retrieved May 19, 2009.
  14. ^ Beckey 1987, p. 17
  15. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 10
  16. ^ a b "North Cascades National Park Geology: A Mountain Mosaic". United States Geological Survey. Archived from the original on June 12, 2018. Retrieved June 9, 2009.
  17. ^ Mathews 1988, pp. 519–520
  18. ^ Mathews 1988, p. 522
  19. ^ "Geologic maps and databases of the North Cascades 30' x 60' (1:100,000 scale) quadrangles". United States Geological Survey. Archived from the original on May 12, 2009. Retrieved June 9, 2009.
  20. ^ Doughton, Sandi. "'Disastrous': Low Snow, Heat Eat Away at Northwest Glaciers." The Seattle Times. Seattle Times, 08 Sept. 2015. Web. 15 Dec. 2015. <http://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/science/disastrous-low-snow-heat-eat-away-at-northwest-glaciers/>.
  21. ^ Mauri, Pelto. "Death of a Glacier". North Cascade Glacier Climate Project. Archived from the original on September 29, 2008. Retrieved October 24, 2008.
  22. ^ Beckey 2003a, p. 13
  23. ^ a b c Kefauver, Karen (September 15, 2010). "North Cascades National Park: Wildlife". GORP. Orbitz. Archived from the original on April 27, 2012. Retrieved June 6, 2012.
  24. ^ a b c d "Plants". North Cascades National Park. National Park Service. May 16, 2012. Retrieved June 6, 2012.
  25. .
  26. ^ Rawhouser, Ashley K.; Holmes, Ronald E.; Glesne, Reed S. (2009). "A Survey of Stream Amphibian Species Composition and Distribution in the North Cascades National Park Service Complex, Washington State" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on October 16, 2011.
  27. ^ "Non-native plants". North Cascades National Park. National Park Service. Retrieved June 6, 2012.
  28. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 141
  29. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 203
  30. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 27
  31. ^ Beckey 1996, p. 140
  32. ^ "Mountain Climbing". Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. U.S. Forest Service. Retrieved February 15, 2014.

References

External links

  • Official website, including the Ross Lake and Lake Chelan National Recreation Areas