Oregon Coast
The Oregon Coast is a
The Oregon Beach Bill of 1967 allows free beach access to everyone. In return for a pedestrian easement and relief from construction, the bill eliminates property taxes on private beach land and allows its owners to retain certain beach land rights.[1]
Traditionally, the Oregon Coast is regarded as three distinct sub–regions:[2]
- The North Coast, which stretches from the Columbia River to Cascade Head.
- The Central Coast, which stretches from Cascade Head to Reedsport.
- The South Coast, which stretches from Reedsport to the Oregon–California border.[3]
The largest city is Coos Bay, population 16,700[4] in Coos County on the South Coast. U.S. Route 101 is the primary highway from Brookings to Astoria and is known for its scenic overlooks of the Pacific Ocean. Over 80 state parks and recreation areas dot the Oregon Coast. However, only a few highways cross the Coast Range to the interior: US 30, US 26, OR 6, OR 22,US 20, OR 18, OR 34, OR 126, OR 38, and OR 42. OR 18 and US 20 are considered among the dangerous roads in the state.[5]
The Oregon Coast includes Clatsop County, Tillamook County, Lincoln County, western Lane County, western Douglas County, Coos County, and Curry County.
Geography
The Oregon Coast is divided into three different regions based on their geological formations: the North Coast, Central Coast, and South Coast. Three primary landforms appear along its shoreline: sea cliffs, beaches, and stacks.[6] Minor land variation, city size, and socioeconomic differences between the North and Central regions cause division between them to be made along geological lines.[6]
North Coast
The North Coast, which stretches from the Columbia River to Cascade Head, possesses longer stretches of unbroken beach (due to silt deposits washed southwards from the Columbia River), a higher concentration of logging zones,[
The weather on the North Coast is moderate. The average low in the winter is just under 40 °F (4 °C), while the high temperature is just above 50 °F (10 °C). The average high reaches its peak in early September at 70 °F (21 °C). The most rain occurs in November and December averaging over 11 inches (280 mm) each month. July and August are the driest averaging under 2 inches (51 mm) of rain each month. Most days are cloudy or partly cloudy throughout the year. The summer has the most sun with approximately half the days sunny or partly cloudy.
Central Coast
The Central Coast, which extends from Cascade Head to Reedsport, while similar to the North Coast, possesses fewer sandy beaches, more sea cliffs and terraces, and a greater number of bays. Several small urban areas exist in this region. Among these are the cities of Lincoln City, Depoe Bay, Newport, Waldport, and Yachats. Because the usable lands of the region are squeezed between the mountains and the ocean, most urban areas are relatively small[citation needed] but are still larger than those of the South Coast region. The southernmost area of Central coast is the intermediary zone for this region and the more mountainous South Coast region. Exposed sandstone cliffs are also common along the beaches and highway. Local sandstones of the Central Coast were uplifted during the Neogene Era. Higher layers of exposed sandstone are often varying shades of orange, and are often quite soft to the touch, often being very brittle, and relatively easily eroded. Lower exposed layers, though less frequent, reveal harder sandstone deposits. Unlike the higher layers, they are often gray-brown in color and hard in comparison. This lower sandstone often breaks off in large, squared chunks.[6]
The weather on the central coast is similar to that of the north coast except the frequency of sunny or partly cloudy days is higher in the summer, approaching 75%.
South Coast
The South Coast region, which extends from Reedsport to the California border, is distinct from the North and Central Coast regions because of its mountainous nature, due to
The weather on the south coast is similar to that of the north and central coasts except the frequency of sunny or partly cloudy days is higher in the summer, approaching 90%.
Communities
Cities
- Astoria
- Bandon
- Bay City
- Brookings
- Cannon Beach
- Coos Bay
- Coquille
- Depoe Bay
- Florence
- Garibaldi
- Gearhart
- Gold Beach
- Lincoln City
- Manzanita
- Nehalem
- Newport
- North Bend
- Port Orford
- Reedsport
- Rockaway Beach
- Seaside
- Tillamook
- Waldport
- Warrenton
- Wheeler
- Yachats
Census-designated places and unincorporated communities
- Agate Beach
- Arch Cape
- Barview (Coos County)
- Barview (Tillamook County)
- Bayside Gardens
- Beverly Beach
- Brighton
- Brownsmead
- Cape Meares
- Carpenterville
- Charleston
- Cooston
- Gardiner
- Glasgow
- Gleneden Beach
- Harbor
- Heceta Beach
- Hobsonville
- Hunter Creek
- Idaville
- Jeffers Garden
- Kernville
- Knappa
- Langlois
- Lincoln Beach
- Manhattan Beach
- Miles Crossing
- Mohler
- Navy Heights
- Neahkahnie Beach
- Nedonna Beach
- Nesika Beach
- Neskowin
- Netarts
- Ocean Park
- Oceanside
- Ophir
- Oretown
- Otter Rock
- Pacific City
- Pistol River
- Sandlake
- Seal Rock
- Searose Beach
- South Beach
- Sunset Beach
- Surf Pines
- Svensen
- Tierra Del Mar
- Tolovana Park
- Wedderburn
- Winchester Bay
- Yaquina
Former communities
- Bayocean
- Cutler City
- Delake
- Eastside
- Empire
- Flavel
- Fort Stevens
- Frankport
- Hammond
- Lexington
- Nelscott
- Oceanlake
- Roads End
- Skipanon
- Taft
- Wecoma Beach
Ecology
Because of the Oregon Coast's physical complexity, many different species of plant and animal can be found in the region, both terrestrial and marine in nature. However, past human interaction has caused a decline in several species of animal along the coast, such as the sea otter.[8] Strict regulations as well as modern human aid has seen a return of some species in recent years.
The Oregon Coast is the location of the Oregon Coast National Wildlife Refuge Complex, which consists of six wildlife refuges, covering 371 acres (1.50 km2), spread over a distance of 320 miles (515 km).[9]
Land
Due to several factors, including climate, weather, and terrain, there is a great variety of plants within the coast region. In some areas, large trees are uncommon. This is because severe winter storms and poor soil limit the growing height of many species.
Because of the salt carried inland by constant onshore winds, only the hardiest varieties of small plant can thrive close to shore.
Like many forested regions of the western United States and Canada, many large species of animal can be found in the woods of the region. Most common are the
Marine
The marine ecology of the Oregon Coast is some of the most diverse in the world. More than 29 species of marine mammals make their home on the Oregon Coast, including several species of
Several species of whale can be observed in the waters near shore, especially during migration in late December and late March, such as
Also common along the coast are
Coastal birds
Many varieties of birds make their home on the Oregon Coast. Because of the variety of birds found in the area, bird watching is a common pastime. Birds along the Oregon Coast can be divided into four categories:
- .
- mollusks. Among the types of shorebirds on the Coast are the western and least sandpiper, dunlin, whimbrel, the semipalmated and western snowy plover, and killdeer.
- Many birds of prey live on the coast, eating small birds, rodents, and small mammals. These include the bald eagle, barn owl, and osprey.
- geese in the area.[12]
Sharks
The Oregon coastal waters are known to have 16 species of shark present:[19]
- Basking shark (Cetorhinus maximus)
- Prionace glauca)
- Broadnose sevengill shark
- Brown catshark (Apristurus brunneus)
- Brown smooth-hound shark(Mustelus henlei) south coast only
- Common thresher shark(Alopias vulpinus)
- Filetail catshark (Parmaturus xaniurus) central and south coast only
- Leopard shark (Triakis semifasciata)
- Longnose catshark (Apristurus kampae) south coast only
- Pacific angelshark (Squatina californica)
- Salmon shark (Lamna ditropis)
- Shortfin mako shark (Isurus oxyrinchus)
- Galeorhinus galeus)
- Spiny dogfish (Squalus acanthias)
- Tiger shark (Galeocerdo cuvier)
- White shark (Carcharodon carcharias)
There are one or two shark bites reported along the Oregon coast each year, mostly boats and surfing boards being tasted. Every few years—a total of 25 since 1900—a human is bitten.[20] Every Oregon victim has survived. The last was Joseph Tanner, October 10, 2016.[21]
History
It is generally accepted that the first
European exploration (1775–1811)
European exploration of the Oregon Coast began in the 18th century as Spanish mariners sailed northward from Mexico to explore and later stake claim to the region, led by explorer Vasco Núñez de Balboa's claim of the entire Pacific and shores in the name of the Spanish Crown. The earliest expedition recorded along the Pacific Northwest coast, however, was led by Spaniard Juan José Pérez Hernández aboard the sloop Santiago in 1774. Pérez's findings were kept a secret and much of the credit for his findings went to later explorers. Pérez's expedition was followed soon after by the 1775 expedition led by Bruno de Heceta and Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, in which Pérez served as pilot. These further explorations led to many discoveries along the Oregon and Washington Coasts. Heceta Head was later named after Bruno de Heceta.[25]
At the same time as the Spanish expeditions, British mariners also began to explore the region, led by explorers
Meanwhile, American Captain
Lewis and Clark Expedition
In 1803, with the successful purchase of the
Pioneer settlement (1811–1859)
A few years later, in 1811, employees of John Jacob Astor's Pacific Fur Company set up a trading post at the mouth of the Columbia River and set up the first permanent U.S. settlement – Astoria. However, the settlement was not as profitable as Astor had hoped it would be. It was sold to the British North West Company in 1812 and became part of its Columbia District. In 1838, Charles Wilkes, on a voyage commissioned by U.S. Congress, landed on the Oregon Coast and raised the American flag. British claims were slowly lost with the increasing number of pioneers traveling to Oregon along the Oregon Trail, and 8 years later, the Oregon Treaty was signed with Britain, ending the half-century claims to Oregon and the Oregon Coast by the British.[27][28]
1860–present
After Oregon attained statehood in 1859 and the completion of railroads throughout the Coast Range, development of land quickly began along many of the Coasts bays and rivers.
However, in 1874,
In 1911, governor
1967 Oregon Beach Bill
Oregon's public lands claim was challenged in 1966, when a motel owner fenced off beach area for the private use of his guests.[30][31] Responding to citizen complaints, state legislators put forward the Oregon Beach Bill, proposing to reestablish the beaches' status as public land. Concerns about private property rights threatened the bill's passage.[29][32] In response, Governor Tom McCall staged a dramatic media event on May 13, 1967, flying two helicopters to the beach with a team of surveyors and scientists. The ensuing media coverage resulted in overwhelming public demand for the bill, which passed and was signed by McCall on July 6, 1967.[29][31]
The Beach Bill declares that all "wet sand" within 16 feet (4.9 m) vertical feet of the low tide line belongs to the state of Oregon.[33] In addition, it recognizes public easements of all beach areas up to the line of vegetation, regardless of underlying property rights. The public has "free and uninterrupted use of the beaches," and property owners are required to seek state permits for building and other uses of the ocean shore.[34] While some parts of the beach remain privately owned, state and federal courts have upheld Oregon's right to regulate development of those lands and preserve public access.[29][35]
Tourism
Due to its scenery, wildlife, and history, the Oregon Coast is a popular travel destination.
Beaches
Oregon's beaches are popular destinations for visitors. Horse riding, clam digging, and surfing are popular activities. Certain beaches are host to events such as Seaside's Beach Volleyball Tournament and finish for the Hood to Coast race or Lincoln City's glass float hunt. Because of many headlands along the Oregon Coast, beaches vary in length from dozens of miles to less than a quarter of a mile. Though less common, surf fishing also occurs along sections of the beach. However, not all Oregon beaches are sand beaches. Large surf-smoothed stones are common and several stone beaches exist. Some beaches are also shrinking, due partially to human interactions and partly to invasive species of plant such as European Beachgrass.[38]
Lighthouses
Another popular destination for visitors is Oregon's historic lighthouses, most of which date to before 1900. Because the Oregon and Washington coasts have been traditionally thought of as some of the
Outdoor activities
The Oregon Coast is also host to many recreational activities. Hiking, camping, sport fishing, and cycling are the most common activities and are ubiquitous to the Oregon Coast. Sport fishing has traditionally been the primary outdoor recreational activity along the Oregon Coast, and is a major industry in several of Oregon's port cities, especially Astoria, Newport, and Coos Bay. Because of this, Oregon has strict regulations concerning the harvest of fish for sport.[40] Charter boats usually take groups out for half day and full day fishing trips for Chinook salmon, Coho salmon, and Pacific halibut.[41][42]
However, several other activities, many of which are more local than others, take place throughout the coast region of the state, several of which occur in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. Most common are All-terrain vehicles and sandboarding. Many equipment rental and specialty shops exist to cater to these activities. Horse riding is also a common pastime along many beaches and dunes along the coast, and several horse trails exist in the nearby forests.[43]
Surfing and bodyboarding are also common sports along the beaches of the Oregon Coast. Both occur nearly year-round, regardless of weather or water temperature.[44]
The coast is home to several excellent golf courses. Among them is the Bandon Dunes ranked by Golf Digest as the 6th best public golf course in the U.S in 2015/2016,[45] up from 7th in 2009[46]
Historic sites
Many historical sites dot the Oregon Coast. The most prominent is that of Fort Clatsop outside of Astoria, which was the site of the Lewis and Clark Expeditions winter stay on the Oregon Coast in 1805–1806, as well as the nearby Peter Iredale which was grounded on the Clatsop Spit 100 years later in September 1906. However, over one hundred and eighteen–one hundred and nineteen years of deterioration have destroyed much of the original ship. Now only a small portion remains above the sand. Both are part of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park along with Fort Stevens.
Further south outside Tillamook sits the
Along the coast just south of Cape Arago are several parks that were formerly the location of early homesteaders, as well as the former Seven Devil's Trail. The homesteaders eventually abandoned their claims in favor of living closer to the nearby rural villages and towns. Today, nothing remains of these small farms and ranches, though several state parks mark their locations. However, south at Cape Blanco sits the
Located in Port Orford just south of Cape Blanco is the famous Battle Rock, which was the site of a major battle between local natives and members of an 1851 expedition led by Captain
Finally, Oregon has the distinction of being the only U.S. state (Hawaii and Alaska did not attain statehood until 1959) to receive hostile action during World War II, being both shelled and bombed.
The first attack, which took place the night of June 21, 1942, occurred at Fort Stevens when a
Economy
The coast is Oregon's top tourist destination.[50] In the mid-1980s, the coast's economy was dependent on natural resources. Limits placed on logging and fishing caused further decline. As of the late 2000s, tourism and retirement have provided economic growth.[51] As of 2006, roughly 210,000 people live on the Oregon Coast. The economy is still dependent on natural resources, but the largest contributions to personal income are retirement based and "unidentified". The top three industries are timber, fishing, and tourism. The coast is poorer than the state average, with average income per capita $24,112 vs. $32,812.[52]
Gallery
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Viewing tunnel at Oregon Coast Aquarium
-
Remains of the Peter Iredale
-
Tillamook Rock Light A.K.A. Terrible Tilly
-
Battle Rock, Port Orford
-
Beach and estuary at Yachats
-
Devil's Churn, near Cape Perpetua, south of Yachats
-
Dusk at Cannon Beach
See also
- List of bridges on the Oregon Coast
- List of Oregon shipwrecks
- Oregon Coast Trail
- Steamboats of the Oregon Coast
References
- ^ "Original Text of the 1967 "Oregon Beach Bill"". govoregon.org. Retrieved 2009-03-30.
- ^ "Welcome to the Beautiful Oregon Coast". oregoncoasttravel.net. Retrieved 2016-06-06.
- ^ "Oregon & California Coast Travel Information". orcalcoast.com. Retrieved 2018-02-07.
- ^ "Coos Bay". orcalcoast.com. Retrieved 2016-02-18.
- ^ "Oregon Rural Roads in Top 20 Most Dangerous 80". beachconnection.net. Retrieved 2009-03-09.
- ^ ISBN 978-1-57766-480-2.
- ^ LaLande, Jeff. "Cape Blanco". The Oregon Encyclopedia. Retrieved November 27, 2014.
- ^ McCluskey, Ian (November 2, 2020). "Will Oregon see sea otters again?". OPB. Retrieved 2020-11-04.
- ^ "Oregon Coast National Wildlife Refuge Complex". Retrieved 2006-03-18.
- ^ "Plants for the Oregon Coast". Retrieved 2006-03-18.
- ^ "Chapter 25, Ecological Subregions of the United States". Retrieved 2009-03-10.
- ^ a b "Oregon Coast National Wildlife Refuge Complex". US Fish and Wildlife Service. Retrieved 2006-03-18.
- ^ "Rare sea otter confirmed at Depoe Bay". Oregonlive. February 20, 2009. Retrieved 2009-02-27.
- ^ "Dozens of frozen squid appear on beaches". KATU. December 11, 2009. Retrieved 2009-12-11.
- ^ Whale Watching in the Winchester Bay Area Archived 2006-02-07 at the Wayback Machine Winchester Bay Merchants' Association. URL accessed on March 18, 2006.
- ^ "TheExplodingWhale.com". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ Oregon Coast Tidepools. Fort Hays State University. URL accessed on March 18, 2006. Archived February 21, 2006, at the Wayback Machine
- ISBN 0-936240-28-8.
- ^ "Sharks Indigenous to Waters Off the Pacific Coast". Shark Research Committee. Archived from the original on 2013-10-21. Retrieved 2014-01-19.
- ^ "Authenticated White Shark Attacks". Shark Research Committee. Retrieved 2014-01-19.
- ^ "Annotated List of Shark Attacks Along the Pacific Coast 2000–Present". Shark Research Committee. Retrieved 2014-01-19.
- ISBN 978-0-929553-08-5.
- ^ Mollie Jackson. "Languages of Oregon". University of Oregon Linguistics Department. Archived from the original on 2009-08-26. Retrieved 2009-03-12.
- ^ Ewing, Lynn. "Native Americans of the Oregon Coast". North Wasco School District. Archived from the original on 2006-02-17. Retrieved 2006-03-03.
- ^ a b c North Pacific History Company (1889). History of Pacific Northwest. Oregon and Washington, Vol. 1. Portland, OR: North Pacific History Company. pp. 1–102.
- ^ "Discover Lewis and Clark". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "America Enters the Rivalry". Center for the Study of the Pacific Northwest. Retrieved 2006-03-03.
- ^ "Exploration". Washington University in St. Louis. Retrieved 2006-03-03.
- ^ a b c d e Oregon Experience. "Timeline: The Beach Bill". Oregon Public Broadcasting. Retrieved 2018-08-30.
- ^ a b c d "Which Way to the Beach? Oregon's Beaches Belong to the Public". Coastal Services. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. April 1998. Retrieved 2008-03-18.
- ^ a b Bassett, Janet (2005). "Beach Bill". Choices that Created the Oregon Mystique: Governor Tom McCall's Foresight and Accomplishments. Retrieved 2008-03-18.
- ^ Kramer, Matt (1967-07-07). "Beach Bill Signed; McCall Clears His Desk". Oregon Statesman. pp. 1:7. Retrieved 2008-03-18.
- ^ Oregon Coast Visitors Association (2005). "Visit the Oregon Coast". Archived from the original on 2008-01-05. Retrieved 2008-03-18.
- ^ "Rules and Regulations". Oregon Parks and Recreation Department. Retrieved 2009-03-11.
- ^ Tucker, Kathy (2002). "Fight for the Beaches". Oregon History Project. Retrieved 2008-03-18.
- ^ "Oregon Travel Airports". Retrieved 2009-03-17.
- ^ "North Bend Airport". Archived from the original on 2009-05-09. Retrieved 2009-03-17.
- ^ "Ocean Shore Management Plan" (PDF). Oregon Parks and Recreation Department January 2005. January 2005. Retrieved 2009-03-11.
- ^ "Oregon Lighthouses". NWCoast.com. Retrieved 2009-03-16.
- ^ "Fish Division: Marine Resource Program: Regulations: Sport Fishing – Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "Tradewinds Charters Price List". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "Betty Kay Charters". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "Siuslaw National Forest-Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "Oregon Surf Spots". Archived from the original on 2008-08-28. Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "America's 100 Greatest Public Courses". Retrieved 2009-03-20.
- ^ "Golf Digest Bandon Dunes". Archived from the original on 2009-03-23. Retrieved 2009-03-20.
- ^ "Naval Air Station Tillamook". Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ^ "National Register of Historic Places". National Park Service. 2006-07-14. Retrieved 2008-04-01.
- ^ a b Kristof, Nicholas D. (1997-10-03). "Nobuo Fujita, 85, Is Dead; Only Foe to Bomb America". The New York Times. Retrieved 2009-03-14.
- ISBN 978-0-470-04726-2.
- ^ Spooner, Alicia & Rob (May–June 2007). "Coast Lines". Oregon Coast Magazine. Retrieved 2009-03-19.
- ^ "Economies of the Oregon Coast". Oregon Wave Action Resource Education. Archived from the original on 2009-04-30. Retrieved 2009-03-19.
External links
- Oregon Coast guide from Travel Oregon (the Oregon State Tourism Commission)
- The North Coast Explorer from Oregon State University
- Guided lighthouse tour from Travel Oregon
- Oregon Coast Visitors Association
- A 1940 Oregon Coast Tour from the Oregon State Archives
- Gallery of Historic Photos
- Oregon & Washington Coast Guide- A collection of articles and links related to the Pacific NW Coast.