Ottoman cuisine

Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Coffee delight at the harem

Ottoman cuisine is the

Northern Africa
.

Sources

The Ottoman palace kitchen registers (matbah-i amire defterleri) are important primary sources for studies of early modern Ottoman cuisine containing information on ingredients and names of food dishes cooked by the palace kitchens.[1]

Many cookbooks were published beginning in the 19th century reflecting the cultural fusions that characterized the rich cuisine of Istanbul's elites in the Late Ottoman period as new ingredients like tomatoes became widely available.[2][3] There are few extant recipe collections before this era.[4]

The earliest Ottoman cookbook is credited to Muhammad Shirvânî's 15th-century expansion of the earlier Arabic Kitab al-Tabikh by Muhammad bin Hasan al-Baghdadi.[5][6]

Diwan Lughat al-Turk (the earliest Turkish language dictionary) is often consulted as a source for the influence of Turkic cuisine, although scholars caution against uncritically assuming the words still meant the same thing hundreds of years later in geographically distant Anatolia.[7]

History

Turkish women baking bread, 1790

Influences

Ottoman cuisine represents the synthesis of

Latin Europe, Islam and the Byzantine Empire all evolved from "the civilization of antiquity".[10] This type of "mutual exchange and enrichment" is a typical feature of culinary history.[11]

The

Altay Mountains to Anatolia, including Persian cuisine.[8] Ayran
is often considered to be part of the central Asian heritage of the Turkic tribes. Pilaf dishes exist in both Central Asian and Persian cuisine making it difficult to trace the path of diffusion back to its starting point.

New ingredients

Ottoman trade introduced new ingredients to the empire's regional cuisines, contributing to the evolving, unique character of Ottoman foodways. Levantine cuisine was enriched by the new ingredients from Asia and the Americas. Fernand Braudel credits the Ottomans with introducing rice, sesame and maize to the region.[12][13]

Although tomatoes had entered the cuisine by the 1690s, they are not found in the few recipe manuscripts that survive from the 18th century. Ayşe Fahriye has recipes for both green tomatoes (kavata) and red tomatoes (domates) in Ev Kadını. Some of the recipes like tomato pilaf and dolma are still common in modern Turkish cuisine. Fahriye's 1882 cookbook is the last mention of green tomatoes in Ottoman cooking.[14] Mehmet Kamil's influential 1844 manuscript includes recipes for tomato stew, stuffed tomato dolma and tomato pilaf.

Also from the Americas were potatoes,

haricot beans
, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin, corn and zucchini.

Diffusion

The court cuisine was diffused through the provinces by Ottoman officials.[15]

The influence of Ottoman cuisine in Europe beginning in the early 16th century is seen in dishes like

Ercole I d'Este, Duke of Ferrara in 1529. Similar to the Western-style confection nougat, koz halva is found in the cuisines of Central Europe, where it is called Törökméz ('Turkish honey') in Hungarian, and Türkischer Honig in Austria and southern Germany.[16]

Characteristics

Dolma
İmam bayıldı

The Ottoman Empire spanned three continents, representing a wide range of climate zones and flora and fauna, and so the cuisine includes not only the cuisine of the Ottoman Palace, but a rich diversity of regional specialties.[17]

Böreks and pastries

The iconic Ottoman stuffed pastry börek may be related to the triangular sanbusak pastries of Safavid cuisine. The cognate term senbuse appears in Turkish sources as early as the 13th century, becoming corrupted as samsa.[18][19] (Samsa are often associated with Uzbek cuisine.)[20][21]

The term "börek" does not appear in

Danishmendname mentions both samsa and "well-buttered böreks".[22]

Ottoman banquets in the 19th century served a mix of Alafranga and alaturca foods. At these dinners, börek was sometimes replaced by the similar French pastry, bouchée or bouchée à la Reine.[23]

The pastry

Ottoman Jews.[24][25]

Bread

Bread was made with wheat and classified according to the quality and origin of the flour. Istanbul's demand for grain could not be met by local production alone and it received shipments from the Thracian coastlands, western Anatolia, Dobruja, Macedonia and Thessaly.[26]

Many types of bread were baked in the palace kitchens—flat white bread (fodula), loaves of good quality whole wheat (somun) and white bread (fırancala) and filo (yufka).[12] The addition of seeds like sesame and aniseed, or spices like cloves, was considered a luxury. Evliya Çelebi noted "the fine white Mudejar francala bread", referring to the European-style bread baked by the Mudéjar in Galata.[27]

Lapa, keşkek and other Ottoman porridge dishes were less expensive alternatives to white bread.

Güllaç

Desserts

Ashure
Baklava
Tavuk göğsü

Sugar was still prohibitively costly in the 17th century; far more common were honey and syrups like pekmez, made with grapes.

The wheat berry pudding

aşure, in modern times a part of the Islamic holy day Ashura, has roots in the harvest rituals of the Neolithic period, since which time domesticated wheat is known to have been cultivated at Karaca Dağ.[16]

There are multiple competing theories of the origin of baklava, variously ascribing it to the Ancient Roman placenta cake, Perisan lauzinaj or the influence of Central Asian desserts, found also in the milky layered dessert güllaç.[16] Dernschwam describes a baklava-like dish made by cooking thin wafers of starch flour and egg white, then filling with layers of sugared nuts with rosewater and nutmeg to create a dessert about as thick as a finger.

Dernschwam describes zerde as rice pudding that is cooked in honeyed water and colored with saffron, garnished with toasted almonds and served with fruits. Muhallebi is also listed among the foods Dernschwam encountered on his travels.

Visiting Europeans noted with interest the Ottoman manner of serving sweet dishes between other courses, instead of at the end of the meal as the custom was in France and other European countries. German army officer Helmuth von Moltke whilst serving in the Ottoman Empire noted the unusual presentation of courses with the sweet courses served between roasts and other savory dishes.[28] Edward Lear's account of a banquet in Ottoman Albania similarly notes the unexpected order of courses, roast meats followed by honeyed pastries, fruits followed by shellfish, savory and salted meats and stews followed by chocolate, and so on, he says, innumerable courses were served in confounding permutations of sweet, sour and salty combinations.

Dolma

Dolma were made by stuffing whole fruits and vegetables, or by wrapping leaves around a filling, either minced meat or spiced pilaf.[29]

Dernschwam described a stuffed vegetable dish of young pumpkins and aubergines (which he calls podliczschan), stuffed with cubed mutton and garlic filling, and served with yogurt. He also describes the dish called sarma as stuffed vine leaves cooked with sour plums.

Drinks

sharbat shops and bozahanes around the port of Galata where imported coffee, sugar and other colonial goods arrived to Istanbul in the 18th century.[31] Bozahanes were one of the most popular public hangouts in 15th and 16th century Bursa until overshadowed by the coffeehouses in the 17th centuries. These were lucrative businesses that generated tax revenue and rent.[32]

Thomas Smith mentions boza in the 17th century Epistola de moribus ac institutis Tucarum: "They also have other liquors peculiar to them of which I shall only mention Bozza made from millet."

Fish

Jean de Thévenot described the fish market of Galata in the 17th century:

The most beautiful fish market in the world is located on the marina, on a street where fish shops occupy both sides, offering large quantities of fish of all varieties...The Greeks run many taverns/cabarets in Galata, where they attract many rascals...

Anchovies were a favorite in the coastal city of Trabzon. One of the many dishes recorded by Evliya Çelebi in his Book of Travels (Seyahatnâme) is an anchovy dish from Trebizond. Cooked in a stoneware pan, the anchovies are arranged in rows and covered with a cinnamon and black pepper scented mixture of leeks, celery, parsley and onions. The vegetable and fish layers alternate to fill up the pan, and olive oil is poured over the top. Çelebi described the dish as "like congealed light, and one who eats it is full of light ... This fish is indeed a table from heaven".[33]

Fruits, nuts and seeds

Many different fruits and nuts are recorded in the palace records.

Marmara Sea. Üsküdar's fields and meadows had been converted to vineyards by the end of the 16th century. Oranges were not introduced until the 18th century, tangerines even later. Bananas, pineapples and other tropical fruits are not mentioned in any known records from the 19th-century imperial kitchens.[35]

Fruits were used to make

sharbat were more likely to be sweetened with dry fruits, molasses or honey.[12] There were hundreds of shops in 17th-century Istanbul specializing in preparations of the Ottoman-style compote hoşaf
, often taken at the end of a meal.

Cakes and bread with poppy seed filling had been consumed in Byzantium since Roman times, a tradition that continued under the Ottoman Turks, entering Central European cuisine and the related culinary culture of Ashkenazi Jews.

Meat dishes

Pastırma

pastırma and yahni are types of meat dishes associated with Ottoman cuisine.[36] Evliya Çelebi describes shish kebab on skewers and meat slow-cooked in tandoor ovens. He says there were hundreds of stalls in the city of Istanbul selling kebabs and kofta.[37]

Ottoman kebabs were slow-cooked in their own juices in earthenware casseroles (çömlek) or tandoor ovens. The recipe named "as the Turk likes it" from Hungarian noblewoman Anna Bornemisza's collection uses this technique:[38]

Sprinkle salt on the meat then roast it. Wash the rice well and boil it in water until soft. Wash the meat, place it in the pot and cover with beef or chicken juices. If you do not have these juices, boil it in melted butter, but so that it remains in one piece. When you serve it, turn it over onto a "platter", sprinkle with olive oil and a little sugar; in this way it will be tastier.

Stuffed roasted lamb with a filling of rice and raisins was served at a feast held in honor of

Danishmendname
describes whole stuffed lambs served at a wedding feast: Çevirme kuzıların dolmış içi.

Hunting for food was common. Sultan

Blachernae Palace. The 19th-century hunting lodge Ihlamur Pavilion was designed by the Ottoman-Armenian architect Nikoğos Balyan in Istanbul for Sultan Abdulmejid I. Deer, wolves and foxes were all hunted, but rabbits were by far the most common game.[42]

Offal

Ottoman court proceedings show that the boza peddlers claimed, by custom, exclusive rights to sell sauteed liver kebab (cığer).[43]

Rice pilaf

Rice was mostly imported from Egypt and used to make

Ottoman language pilaf dishes were called dane, a term borrowed from the Persian language.[44] Made with mulberries, stir-fried meats, honey, pomegranates and gourds, rice dishes were rich and varied, at least for the wealthy.[45][46] Evliya Çelebi's description of rice dishes draws a distinction for the long-grain Persian rice used in dane dishes, which he calls çilav (چلو).[47][48] He reports attending a feast in Bitlis where rice dishes were presented ambrette seeds, partridge, kofta and eggs. These festive platters were often enriched with almonds, pistachios and currants.[49]

Soups and stews

Hans Dernschwam, a 16th-century German traveler, confirms that çorba (

işkembe çorbası (tripe soup) was sold in the early morning hours by Ottoman Greeks as a hangover cure.[33]

Soup could be thickened with a mixture of egg and flour or bread and an acidic ingredient such as lemon juice, and served over stale bread. This style of soup could be found, with some variations, in Balkan territories like Romania and Hungary, as well as in Turkey.[50]

Hand-cut soup noodles called

erişte
are both mentioned in the 13th century Danishmendname.

Spices

The Spice Bazaar

When Mehmed II took the city of Constantinople in 1453, the Turks gained control of the spice trade in the eastern Mediterranean.[51] Spices were used in health tonics produced by the palace confectionery that could be consumed as sweets and for health purposes, and could include up to 60 different spices in their preparation.[33]

According to Evliya Çelebi, the local melons in

kebabs could be spiced with cumin. Breads were made with seeds, cumin and spices either mixed into the dough or sprinkled on top.[33]

A 17th-century report says that the used of spice in Istanbul was moderate and mostly limited to black pepper, but as the intensity of spice is subjective, other reports differ. The 16th-century Flemish

yoghurt being all that was needed for nourishment.[52] Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, writing in the 18th-century, says Ottomans use "a great deal of rich spice", and that she was unable to eat the food as the intensity of flavors took their toll on her and she "began to grow weary of it and desired our own cook might add a dish or two after our manner".[33]

Sweet and sour

A serving of the sweet and sour lamb dish mutancana, prepared with dried figs and apricots

Sweet and sour dishes were typical of classical Ottoman cooking.[53] The Turkish epic Danishmendname records "They put lots of fig and apricot in sour dishes, as well as raisins and dates."

The sweet and sour lamb dish mutancana is rumored to have been one of Mehmed II's favorite courses. The recipe survives in Shirvani's 15th century manuscript, and some versions appear in Romanian cookbooks, most likely influenced by cultural contact with Hungary.[54]

Mahmudiyye is a sweet and sour chicken and noodle dish of note from the Shirvani manuscript.[55]

Vegetables

A modern example of the stuffed eggplant dish karnıyarık

Palace archives from the reign of Mehmed II confirm purchases of carrots, cucumbers, eggplants, parsley, spinach and chard in the late 15th century.

Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and are mentioned in the Old Testament Numbers 11:15.[56] Prasa (پراصه‎), as they were called, were a staple food for Salonican Jews who suffered economic hardship during the Capitulations of the Ottoman Empire.[57][58]

Braising was a typical way of cooking vegetables in the 19th century Ottoman Empire, sometimes with the addition of lamb. By the 1880s printed recipes had added tomato in the preparation of braised dishes. Vegetables were also used in the preparation of stuffed dolma.[29]

Pickles

Dernschwam wrote that, while cabbage was found, the Turks did not know how to cook it with beef like the Hungarians, saying they instead pickled it, a common preparation in those days.

Danishmendname
.

Palace cuisine

Background

Of the four Ottoman palaces,

janissaries.[17]

Ottoman palace cuisine was amalgamated and honed in the imperial palace's kitchens by chefs brought from certain parts of the empire to create and experiment with different ingredients. These chefs were tested and hired by their method of cooking rice, a simple dish. They were brought over from various places for the express purpose of experimenting with exotic textures and ingredients and inventing new dishes.[citation needed]

Each cook specialized in specific tasks. All dishes intended for the sultan were first passed by the palate of the chesnidjibashi, or imperial food taster, who tested the food for both poison and taste. The creations of the Ottoman palace's kitchens also filtered to the common population, for instance through

yalis) of the pashas, and from there on to the people at large.[citation needed
]

Sarma from Turkey

Fatih Sultan Mehmet, was used mostly for lighting lamps and in the manufacture of soaps.[60][61] Its use in cuisine was limited, but included stuffed vegetables (dolma), İmam bayıldı, Karnıyarık and pilaki.[12]

Majun, compote and halva were sweets made by palace chefs.[17]

17th century

Salep is a drink made from the tubers of certain orchids belonging to the genus Orchis

A palace register from 1692 lists different kinds of vegetables eaten in the palace, squash (kabak-ı Mısır), celery, lettuce (marul), cucumber, garlic, aubergines, borage (lisan-ı seveir), cowpeas, spinach, turnips, vine leaves, Jew's mallow (müluhiye), beets, carrots and okra. Parsley, dill, mint, and tarragon are also listed among the foodstuffs allocated for the sultan.

sharbat and hoşab. Chicken was reserved for the elite, and pigeon only for the sultan, hasseki, other potential concubines and princesses. Some large portions allotted to non-imperial high-ranking servants like the female steward of the harem, who received one sheep and 10 chickens per day, indicate that persons in these roles were responsible for feeding their subordinates.[62]

Salep is a drink made from the tubers of the orchid also consumed in this era.

18th century

Pepper and cinnamon were the dominant spices of the 18th-century Ottoman court, used in huge quantities, such as 118 kg (260 lb) of pepper and over 1 kg (2.2 lb) of mastic for a 15-day festival attended by various dignitaries in 1720. Black pepper was immensely popular in early modern European cuisine, and was used in nearly all Ottoman dishes.[33]

19th century

Mutton, clarified butter, flour and rice were the most common ingredients in the 19th century palace cuisine. Butter and yogurt, made with milk from Egyptian and Dutch cows, were purchased from the

tulum peyniri and beyaz peynir. Typical spices included cinnamon, clove, saffron, cumin, sumac, nutmeg, oregano, mastic, cardamom and black pepper.[12]

Compared with earlier centuries, more fish, roe and caviar were consumed, including the pickled bonito dish called

Starch was used to make the dessert güllaç during the month of Ramadan.[12]

19th century banquets served a mix of alaturca and alafranga dishes. At an 1856 banquet celebrating Ottoman victory in the Crimean War the alaturca dishes were savory börek pastry, pilaf and the desserts kadayıf and baklava. Some of the dishes given French names were new creations of the palace kitches like croustade d'ananas en sultane and suprême de faisan à la Circassienne.[63]

Dishes

İmam bayıldı

İmam bayıldı is an iconic eggplant dish with legendary folk origins. It was a dish created in the imperial kitchens that remains a popular entrée of modern Turkish cuisine.[69]

Public kitchens

Ottoman miniature of a meddah performing at a coffeehouse

Hebron

The "Table of Abraham" (simat al-Khalil) was a custom of pre-Ottoman

Qaytbay in the 15th century, was still serving lentils each day in the 16th century. On Thursday evenings pomegranate seeds and seasoned rice (ruzz mufalfal) were served. According to Mujir al-Din, all were welcome at the simat al-Khalil. Evliya Çelebi, writing in the 17th century, said "each person had his bowl filled with the soup of Abraham, enough for the subsistence of men with their families. I [Evliya] was also fortunately among the group of those poor. I received a plate of wheat soup, a gift from God. I never witness such a tasty meal at the table of either viziers or men of learning".[70]

Jerusalem

At the

Mevlud and Berat, lamb and rice would be served instead of soup, and zerde (rice pudding with honey and saffron).[70]

Istanbul

All travelers were welcome to three days of basic meals at the imaret in

ashraf were in attendance, they were served sheep's trotters (paça) for breakfast each day, with hearty lamb and rice portions, and a spiced squash dish sweetened with honey, cloves and cinnamon. 3,300 loaves of bread were baked each day by the kitchens and leftovers distributed to the poor.[70]

Terminology

Manti of Kayseri
Meze from Turkey

The culinary terminology of Ottoman Turkish includes many Persian loanwords:[8]

Other culinary terms that have entered the Turkish language reveal an assortment of linguistic influences like Italian (barbunya), Greek (fasulye), Chinese (manti) and Arabic (muhallebi).[8]

Beginning in the 19th century the Ottomans began using French culinary terms at diplomatic events.

kebabs continued to be served. Food remained a symbol of Ottoman power and prestige and the adaptation of French culinary practices to Ottoman palace cuisine reflected the Ottoman desire to prove themselves the cultural equal of Europeans.[71]

Menus of formal banquets at the imperial court dating to the early 20th century show the use of French terms and their Turkish equivalents:

French Turkish English
Consommé Et suyu Meat stock
Consommé à la Reine Et suyu Meat stock (Chicken consommé thickened with tapioca)
Consommé de volaille glacé Soğuk tavuk suyu Cold chicken consommé
Créme de fruits Kaymaklı meyve tatlısı Fruits with clotted cream
Fraises voilées Kaymaklı çilek Strawberries with clotted cream
Gâteux aux fruits Meyveli pasta Fruitcake
Gâteux aux amandes Bademli pasta Almond cake
Gâteux Marquise Çikolata tatlısı Chocolate Marquise cake
Gâteux panaché Yemişli bademli pasta Ice-cream cake with fruits
Dessert Şekerleme (candies) Dessert
Gaufrettes Sultanié Kaymaklı yaprak tatlısı Sultan's waffles
Glace Dondurma Ice cream
Glace aveline Dondurma (Hazelnut) ice cream
Granité glacé aux fraises Çilekli dondurma Strawberry sorbet
Mont Blanc Mont Blanc pastry
Neige d'Ananas Ananaslı dondurma Pineapple sorbet
Tarte à la Chambord Şambor tatlısı Chambord dessert tart
Vacherin Chantilly Kremalı tatlı Meringue dessert

Legacy

Ottoman culinary influence survived the

Bosnian cuisine
all share in the heritage of Ottoman culinary culture. Fragner notes that these cuisines, in the modern forms, "offer treacherous circumstantial evidence of this fact" of their shared cultural history, and that the origins of its legacy are impossible to ascertain:

It is a matter of mere speculation whether the origins of this imperial culinary legacy are to be traced back to Greek antiquity, the Byzantine heritage, or the Turkish and Arab nations, not forgetting Phoenician traditions; nowadays you may find support for any of these claims in various countries in the Balkans and the Near East.[72]

The collapse of the Ottoman Empire gave rise to the creation of modern nation-states in the Balkans and Middle East. Nationalist ideologies became the tools to forge integrated, shared identities by erasing the shared Ottoman heritage and identity of these many nations. The newly founded states based their national identities on the ancient past (Pharonic, Mesopotamian, Phoenician, Greek). This has made the shared culinary heritage of these nations a flashpoint as competing nationalist agendas have fought over claims to the most prestigious dishes such as baklava.[73] Fragner notes that the emergent national cuisines also represent "a good deal of local or regional culinary traditions".[74]

Bibliography

  • Priscilla Mary Işın, Bountiful Empire: A History of Ottoman Cuisine, Reaktion Books, London, 2018,
  • Marianna Yerasimos, 500 Years of Ottoman Cuisine, 2nd English edition, Boyut Publishing, İstanbul, 2007,

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External links