Peak Ozodi

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Korzhenevskoi Peak
Пик Озоди
Ultra
Coordinates	39°03′27″N 72°00′30″E / 39.05750°N 72.00833°E / 39.05750; 72.00833[1]
Geography
Korzhenevskaya Location in Tajikistan
Location	GBAO, Tajikistan
Parent range	Academy of Sciences Range (Pamirs)
Climbing
First ascent	1953 by A. Ugarov et al.
Easiest route	rock/snow/ice climb

Peak Ozodi (Russian: Пик Озоди), (until 2020 Korzhenevskoi Peak, Russian: Пик Корженевской) is the third highest peak in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five "Snow Leopard Peaks" in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910.

Due to transliteration and declension issues the peak's name is rendered in many different ways, including Korzhenevski, Korzhenevskoi, and Korzhenievsky.

Location

Peak Korzhenevskaya lies about 13 km (8.1 mi) north of

Notable features

Korzhenevskoi Peak is one of the five seven-thousanders of the former Soviet Union (this counts

Climbing history

In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m).

Korzhenevskoi Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge.

Partly since it is required for the Snow Leopard award, Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after Lenin Peak. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1987 by Anatoly Nosov; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.

References

Sources

• Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks,
  ISBN 0-89886-238-8
• Robin Collomb and Andrew Wielochowski, Pamir-Trans Alai Mountains, 1:200,000 scale map and guide, West Col Productions.
• DEM files (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
• Vladimir Shataev, Snow Leopards