Penzance
Penzance
| |
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Town | |
A panorama of Penzance | |
Location within Cornwall | |
Population | 21,200 (2011) |
OS grid reference | SW475306 |
Civil parish |
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Unitary authority | |
Ceremonial county | |
Region | |
Country | England |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | PENZANCE |
Postcode district | TR18 |
Dialling code | 01736 |
Police | Devon and Cornwall |
Fire | Cornwall |
Ambulance | South Western |
UK Parliament | |
Website | www.penzancetowncouncil.co.uk |
Penzance (
Penzance's former[
Penzance is the base of the
was written, 1879, Penzance had become popular as a peaceful resort town, so the idea of it being overrun by pirates was amusing to contemporaries.Toponymy
Penzance—Pennsans; "holy headland" in the
History
Prehistory to Early Medieval period
About 400 prehistoric stone axes, known as Group 1 axes and made from
Until recently, there was little evidence for anything but an early and short Roman occupation of Cornwall, and there have so far been only three finds in Penzance. In August 1899 two coins of
The Hundred of Penwith had its ancient centre at Connerton, now buried beneath the sands of Gwithian Towans at Gwithian.[20] The Manor of Alverton, with an area of 64 Cornish acres, gave its name to the second largest tithing in Penwith. The manor included Penzance as well as parts of Madron, Paul, St Buryan and Sancreed.
Although Penzance is not mentioned in the survey document the Domesday Book, it is likely that the area would have been included. Domesday records that in 1066 the Manor of Alwarton was owned by Alward who was dispossessed by Robert, Count of Mortain, a half-brother of William the Conqueror.[21] The name Alward and tun, a personal name combined with a town or settlement suffix, indicate Saxon land ownership. In Cornwall the tun indicates a manorial centre such as Helston or Connerton. The change of ownership in 1066 was a change from one alien landlord to another, and the name Alverton lives on as the western part of Penzance from St John's Hall, to the housing estate on the west side of the River Laregan.[8]
High and Late Middle Ages
The first mention of the name Pensans is in the
Dominating the skyline above the harbour is the present church of St Mary's. A St Mary's Chapel is mentioned in a 1548 document which states that it was founded by Sir Henry Tyes, Knight, Lord of the Manor of Alverton, who gave a £4 stipend for a priest.[25] There is an earlier document from 1379, when Bishop Brantyngham licensed for services "the chapel of Blessed Mary of Pensande".[26] At this date it was probably used as a chapel of ease, and not used for Sunday services, which would have affected the attendance at the Parish Church in Madron.[8] Further evidence of historical settlement from this period is in the St Clare area of the town, where a chapel existed to St Clare or Cleer. The earliest reference is a lease of 1584: "...a certain chapel situate below the high road between Pensaunce and Madderne."[27] In the early part of the 19th century the foundations of a building, said to be the chapel, was discovered, and enough was exposed to show the shape of the building.[28] An episcopal licence cannot be traced for this chapel.[8] The name, St Clare, lives on in the town as "St Clare Street", which is part of the road from Penzance to Madron, and the St Clare cricket ground at the top of the hill.
- Medieval economy
Markets were held on a fixed day each week, and fairs on fixed date(s) each year. To obtain either, a manorial lord had to apply for a royal charter. The right to hold a market each Wednesday was granted by King Edward III to Alice de Lisle, sister of Lord Tyes and widow of Warin de Lisle, on 25 April 1332; a fair, lasting seven days at the Feast of St Peter ad Vincula on 1 August; and another fair of seven days on 24 August at Mousehole for the feast of St Bartholomew – later to be held in Penzance. The settlement was growing in importance as the weekly Wednesday market was confirmed by King Henry IV and three further fairs, each of two days, were granted on 8 April 1404. These were at the Feast of the Conception of Virgin Mary (8 December), St Peter in Cathedra (22 February) and the Nativity of the Virgin Mary (8 September).[8]
It is not known when a quay was built at Penzance as there is no grant or licence, but an Inquest as to the Manor of Alverton in 1322 records eight fishing boats each paying 2 shillings each, and an unspecified number at Mousehole each paying 12 shillings. There was also a payment of 8 shillings for the rent of logii (huts or sheds) of foreign fishermen, i.e. those outside the manor. At a second Inquest in 1327 the number had risen to 13 at Penzance; with 16 recorded at Mousehole and both now paying only 1 shilling each: the total rent for logii was 8s 6d (421⁄2p) with 17 tenants paying 6d (21⁄2p) each. Both Inquests record 29 burgesses at Penzance and 40 at Mousehole. A burgess paid his rent with money rather than with personal services, and this indicates that Penzance and Mousehole were considered to be towns.[29] A comparison of the settlements in West Cornwall can be made with the annual payments, based on the number of fishing boats, made to the Duchy of Cornwall in 1337: Porthia (St Ives) £6; Mosehole (Mousehole) £5; Marcasion (Marazion) £3; Pensanns (Penzance) 12s (60p); Londeseynde (Land's End), (Sennen Cove) 10s (50p); Nywelyn (Newlyn) 10s; and Portmynster (Porthminster, St Ives) 2s (10p).[8] In 1425, 1432 and 1440 ships in Penzance were licensed to carry pilgrims to the shrine of St James of Compostella, in north-west Spain.[30]
In medieval times and later, Penzance was subject to frequent raiding by "Turkish pirates", in fact
Early modern period
Tudor period
In the summer of 1578 Penzance was visited by the plague. The burial registers of Madron (where all Penzance births, deaths and marriages were recorded) shows a massive increase in deaths for 1578, from 12 the previous year to 155. This is estimated to be about 10% of the population of the village at the time. The plague also returned in 1647 and the registers again show an increase of from 22 burials to 217 in one year.[32]
Being at the far west of Cornwall, Penzance and the surrounding villages have been sacked many times by foreign fleets. On 23 July 1595,
Penzance as a town since 1614
The reason for Penzance's relative success probably stems from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries when King Henry IV granted the town a royal market in 1404.
- Corpus Christi, the Sunday after Whitsun– still held
- The Thursday before St Andrew's Day (30 November)
- St Peter's Day (1 August); first granted in 1332
- St Bartholomew's Day (24 August); originally granted to Spanish Raid of 1595
- St Mary the Virgin's Day (8 September); granted in 1404
- The Conception of St Mary the Virgin's Day (8 September); granted in 1404
- St Peter's Day in Cathedra(22 February); granted in 1404
The Crown was paid a perpetual rent of five marks (£3 6s 8d / £3.33) in acknowledgment of the rights granted by the Charter, which was paid until 1832, but there was no grant of Parliamentary representation.[8]
The old arms of Penzance were the head of St John the Baptist on a charger, with the legend "Pensans anno Domini 1614". The arms of the borough are Arg. a Paschal lamb proper in base a Maltese cross Az. on a chief embattled of the last between two keys in saltire wards upwards Or and a saltire couped Arg. a plate charged with a dagger point downwards Gu.[38]
Within a year the new Borough bought a "substantial degree of freedom" from the Manor of Alverton then known as Alverton and Penzance for £34 plus a perpetual annuity of £1 which was last paid in 1936.[8] A market-house and Guildhall was built, and together with the rights bought in 1615, provided almost all the borough income for more than two centuries.[8] The southern arm of the pier was built in 1766 and extended in 1785,[39] to add to the first pier of which was built prior to 1512.[40]
During the
Further Civic improvements included the construction in 1759 of a reservoir which supplied water to public pumps in the streets.[42] In 1768 a friendly society of Tradesmen was formed at Penzance with 101 members living within three miles of the town. The members met on the first Monday in each month at the King's Head, kept by Richard Runnals. The benefits of the Society were: a member being sick, lame or infirm would receive seven shillings a week. [gout and rupture were common, and excepted from payment unless 'needful'. Aged and infirm members were allowed 3/6p per week. Three pounds was given toward the funeral of a member and 10 pounds to the widow or children. All members were to attend the funeral or be fined a shilling. How long this association lasted is not known.[43]
Penzance has a long-standing association with the local parish of Madron. Madron Church was in fact the centre of most religious activity in the town until 1871,[44] when St Mary's Church (until this period a chapel of ease) was granted parish status by church authorities though it had been registered since the new church was built in 1832.[45]
1755 seiche
On 1 November 1755 the Lisbon earthquake caused seiching, a form of standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed body of water, along the Cornish coast, and particularly in Mount's Bay, which is prone to seiching. At around 2:00 pm, the sea rose eight feet (2.4 m) in Penzance, came in at great speed, and fell at the same rate. Little damage was recorded.[46]
19th century
1801–1848
At the start of the 19th century (1801), the town had a population of 2,248. The census, which is taken every ten years, recorded a peak population in 1861 of 3,843, but it then declined, as in most of Cornwall, through the remainder of the century, being just 3,088 in 1901.[47]
By the time
The first lifeboat in Cornwall was bought by the people of Penzance in 1803 but it was sold in 1812 due to lack of funds to keep it in operation.[50] The pier had been extended again in 1812 and John Matthews opened a small dry dock in 1814, the first in the South West. In 1840 Nicholas Holman of St Just opened a branch of his foundry business on the quayside.[51] These facilities proved valuable in supporting the steamships that were soon calling at the harbour in increasing numbers.
Gas lighting was introduced in 1830 and the old Market House was demolished in 1836.
1849–1900
After the passing of the Public Health Act (1848), Penzance was one of the first towns to petition to form a local board of health, doing so in September that year.[53] Following a report by a government inspector in February, the Board was established in 1849 which led to many facilities to enhance public health. The report[54] shows that most streets were macadamised or sometimes paved, and the town was lit by 121 gas lamps from October to March each year, although they were not lit when there was a full moon. Water was supplied from 6 public pumps, and there were a further 53 private wells. There were no sewage pipes at the time, waste being collected from the main streets by a refuse cart.
- Railway station
The line was sold to the
The ability of the railway to carry fresh produce to distant markets such as
The completion of the railway through Cornwall made it easier for tourists and invalids to enjoy the mild climate of Penzance. Bathing machines had been advertised for hire on the beach as early as 1823,[40] and the town was already "noted for the pleasantness of its situation, the salubrity of its air, and the beauty of its natives".[59] The town's first official guide book was published in 1860, and the Queen's Hotel opened on the seafront the following year. It was so successful that it was extended in 1871 and 1908.
- Harbour
At the same time as the railway was being built more improvements were being made to the harbour, with a second pier on the eastern side of the harbour, the Albert Pier, completed in 1853 to provide even better shelter for shipping.
The Scilly Isles Steam Navigation Company was founded in 1858 and placed in service the first steam ship on the route, SS Little Western. In 1870 the new West Cornwall Steam Ship Company joined the route, taking over the Scilly Isles Company the following year.[62]
In 1853 the Royal National Lifeboat Institution stationed one of their boats in the town, the first since 1812, and maintained a station here until 1908 when the Watson Class Elizabeth Blanche was transferred to Newlyn as the first step towards setting up Penlee Lifeboat Station. The RNLI still use a boat house built on Jennings Street near the Promenade in 1884 to promote their activities.[50]
Penzance, with its dry dock and engineering facilities, was chosen as the western depot for
- Improvements
In 1875 a local newspaper described the railway station as a large dog's house of the nastiest and draughtiest kind
Around the headland, public baths were opened on the Promenade in 1887 and the Morrab Gardens with its sub-tropical plants was opened two years later. A bandstand was added to the gardens in 1897.[58]
20th century
In 1901 the town had a population of 3,088. The decennial census recorded a continuing decline in population until 1921, when just 2,616 people were recorded. The population then climbed to 4,888 (1931) then 5,545 (1951) – thus more than doubling in 30 years. It was now larger than at any time in the past.[47] (The census boundaries changed in 1981 so these figures do not directly compare with those stated for the current population.)
A proposed electric
In 1912, Penzance erected its first electric street lamps and the town's first cinema opened.[66]
The dry dock was sold on 25 August 1904 to N. Holman and Sons Limited, the engineering business that had been trading in Penzance since 1840. New workshops would be built during the 1930s, and the facility continued to be used by the Scilly ferries and other merchant ships, as well as Trinity House, the Royal Navy and Royal Maritime Auxiliary Service. In 1951 a new vessel for the King Harry Ferry on the River Fal was launched, built on the keel of an old landing craft. A steam tug, the Primrose, was built in 1963.[51]
Land was reclaimed beside the Albert Pier in the 1930s to allow the railway station to be enlarged at a cost of £134,000.[58] The 1880 building was retained, but extra platforms and sidings were provided to handle more perishable goods, as well as the increasing numbers of tourists.
In 1905 a new bandstand was built on the Promenade opposite the Queen's Hotel, and the Pavilion Theatre opened nearby in 1911, complete with a roof garden and café.
1923 saw a new road link the harbour area and the Promenade, and in 1933 the St. Anthony Gardens were built, followed two years later by the Jubilee Pool opposite. Tourists could now make full use of the whole seafront between Penzance and Newlyn harbours.
In the early 1990s, a bypass was built around the town.[68]
Transport
The A30 from London to Land's End is a trunk road as far as the Chy-an-Mor roundabout, a mile (1.6 km) to the east of Penzance.[69] After bypassing Penzance to the north the road continues to Land's End mainly as a rural A route. The A30 provides a fast connection to the M5 motorway at Exeter 111 miles (179 km) to the northeast. The distance from Penzance to London is 275 miles (443 km) or about 5 hours by car.[70]
The bus and coach station is next to the railway station from where
A ferry service operates between Penzance Harbour and the
Newquay Airport is 41 miles (66 km) away and offers flights to Gatwick, Heathrow, Dublin, Cork and many other places, including an increasing number of European destinations.[74]
Governance
Penzance was an
In 1974 the Penzance Borough was abolished and replaced by
The
Penzance Town Council does not have in place a system of political registration, so councillors do not form groups of any kind and technically act independently; however, the current political composition of the council (as of 4 May 2017) is as follows: Independent 10, Labour Party 5, Liberal Democrat 3, Green 1, Conservative 1.
Penzance also elects a
Economy
The economy of Penzance has, like those of many Cornish communities, suffered from the decline of the traditional industries of fishing, mining and agriculture. Penzance now has a mixed economy consisting of light industrial, tourism and retail businesses. However, like the rest of Cornwall, housing remains comparatively expensive, wages low and unemployment high. In 2007, house prices rose 274% from 10 years prior, the fastest rise in the UK.[78] The fishing port of Newlyn, which falls within the parish boundaries, provides some employment in the area, but has also been greatly affected by the decline in the fishing industry over the last 30 years. In the 2004 index of deprivation Penzance is listed as having 3 wards within the top 10% for employment deprivation, Penzance East (125th most deprived in England) Penzance West (200th most deprived in England), and Penzance Central (712th most deprived in England).[79] 18–31% of households in the parish are described as "poor households".[80] Penzance East also has one of the highest unemployment rates in Cornwall, stated as 15.4%.[80]
Mining
Following
Penzance also had its own submarine mine situated off the coast of the town next to the area known as Wherrytown. The mine, known as Wheal Wherry Mine, was worked from 1778 to 1798 and again from 1836 to 1840.[83] Founded by "a poor 57 year old miner" named Thomas Curtis, the mine was said to be "very rich at depth" and was connected to the shore by a wooden bridge; the ore was transported by wherry boat. The mine suffered considerable damage in 1798 when an American ship broke anchor off nearby Newlyn and smashed into the bridge and head gear. Later attempts at mining were not as profitable.[84]
During the 19th century and until 1912, Penzance had the largest tin
Main sights
Large sections of Penzance are classified as ″conservation areas″ under the Penwith local plan
"Penzance has done much to destroy its attractive character. The older houses in the narrow centre round the market hall have been pulled down and third-rate commercial 'contemporary', of which the Pearl Assurance building is a nasty example, are turning it into Slough".
The Market Building (1836–38) in Market Jew Street was designed by William Harris, District Surveyor for Bristol, in the Greek Revival style. It has a grand Ionic portico and is surmounted by a dome. Alterations for Lloyds Bank were carried out in 1922–25.[89]
Penzance's former main[
Penzance promenade has been destroyed in parts several times by storms. The most recent example was on 7 March 1962, when large parts of the western end of the promenade, the nearby Bedford Bolitho Gardens (now a play park) and the village of Wherrytown suffered severe damage.[94] On the outskirts of town is Trereife House, a grade II listed Queen Anne style, manor house which now offers accommodation and hosts events.[95][96]
Geography
Penlee Quarry which is within the boundaries of the Penzance parish is a geological
Climate
Penzance has an oceanic climate (Cfb) according to Köppen and a humid subtropical climate (Cf) according to Trewartha. [3]
Education
Penzance has two
Various other schools have existed in past times, including St Erbyn's School, West Cornwall School for Girls and Bolitho School at Polwithen House. The Polwithen site was originally home to Penzance Church of England Girls' High School and later the School of St Clare (a
Culture
Every June since 1991 the
Before the 1930s Penzance was the scene of large
The summer solstice was, in 1882, described as a very old custom and celebrated with all the rude revelry of heathendom. Bonfires were lit in the town centre and lines of tar barrels were swung along the streets by males and females. It was also accompanied by dancing of the roughest kind, uncouth dress and semi-disguise, sky and hand rockets, and all sorts of fireworks.[101]
Allantide, a Cornish version of Halloween, was also a popular activity in the town. Many of these customs were recorded by local antiquarian M. A. Courtney and have influenced historical views of traditional Cornish cultural activities.
In October 2010 the first full festival of music and the arts – the Penzance Proms – was held (23–31 October).
Every December Penzance holds the Montol Festival a community arts event reviving many of the Cornish customs of Christmas, including traditional costumes, masks and guise dancing.
Music and theatre
Penzance is the home of the
. At the time the libretto was written, 1879, Penzance had become popular as a peaceful resort town, so the idea of it being overrun by pirates was amusing to contemporaries.The Acorn Arts Centre, sited within a former Methodist chapel in Parade Street, provides a mixture of theatre, film, dance music and cabaret and is partially public funded. The Savoy is an independent cinema in Causewayhead which opened in 1912 and was originally named the Victoria Hall Music Hall. The Savoy is one of the locations of performances sponsored by the Penwith Film Society (an arts cinema society based in the Penwith area), it is reputedly the oldest continuously used cinema in Britain. Prior to the
The 2016 pop single by indie group The Hit Parade "From Paddington to Penzance", takes as its subject a relationship that was formed on the railway line from London to Cornwall that terminates in Penzance.[102]
Art galleries
Penzance is home to the new Newlyn Art Gallery establishment "The Exchange" which opened in 2007. Penlee House, an art gallery and museum notable for its collection of paintings by members of the Newlyn School. It was one of the former homes of the Branwell family. Within Penzance town centre there are a growing number of commercial art galleries.
Religion
As in other Cornish towns and villages
St Mary's Church was built in 1832–35, St Paul's (now closed) in 1843 and St John's in 1881. Penzance was formerly in the parish of Madron but St Mary's parish was established in 1871 and St Paul's in 1869. Two medieval chapels (see above, History) are known to have existed before the Reformation. St Mary's chapel was consecrated in 1680 but was in existence three hundred years earlier and the licensing of it in 1379 is recorded. The chaplain's stipend was £4 p.a. from the manor of Alverton. In 1549 its endowments were seized by the Crown though the burgesses made representations that they should not be. Thomas Lamplugh Bishop of Exeter by much cajolery induced the mayor and burgesses to consent to consecration of the chapel in 1680. The curate then had a stipend of £5 p.a.[104]
Arthur Langdon (1896) described a Cornish cross in front of the Market House. This cross stood in the Green Market until 1829 when it was removed to a house in North Street (Causewayhead) close to its original position. About 1868 it was moved again to the western end of the Market House. It is ornamented on the front and the sides. On the back there is said to be an inscription: PCMBUNT/QUICUMQ/VENIENT//COP/PIO/UM//O/+/X (described in 1850).[105] It is now at Penlee House.
Sport
Penzance is the home of Cornwall's most successful rugby teams, the
Penzance A.F.C. were relegated from the South West Peninsula League Premier Division following the 2012–13 season and now play in Division One West. The club was one of the founding members of the Cornwall County Football Association and the first winners of the Cornwall Senior Cup in 1892–93. Penzance have won the Senior Cup on ten occasions, the last in the 1980–81 campaign.
Former England and
Penzance Wheelers, Britain's most south-westerly cycling club was founded in the 1930s. Their most famous member is Tom Southam who represented Great Britain in five World Championships.[108] Penzance Wheelers predecessors was the Penzance Bicycle Club who were in existence in 1880 and, for example, on 30 April had a run to St Just, returning via Trewellard and Pendeen.[109] Mount's Bay Harriers, a triathlon and running club founded in 2005 are based at Mount's Bay School, Heamoor. Athletes from the club participate at most road races and triathlons in Cornwall as well as many further afield.[110] Other sporting clubs and organisations include Penzance Hockey Club, with male and female teams, based at the Penzance Astro Park, Penzance Tennis Club at Penlee Park and lawn bowling at Penzance Bowling Club and Penlee (Newlyn) Bowling Club.[111][112][113]
The Mini Transat 6.50 (now the Transit 6.50) transatlantic yacht race started from Penzance (hosted by Penzance Sailing Club) from its conception in 1977 to the fourth edition of the race in 1983.
Cornish wrestling
Penzance has been a major centre for Cornish wrestling for centuries.[114] Places where tournaments were held include: the Western Green,[114] the Pentreath & Co's Brewery,[115] the Folly,[116] Penzance football club, St Just Road, Alverton,[117] the field at Treneere Manor,[118] the field behind the Golden Lion inn in the Market-place,[119] St Clare Sports Ground,[120] St Johyn's Hall,[121] Mennaye Rugby Field,[122] Ponsandane[123] and Trereife House.[124]
The oldest Cornish wrestling champion we know of was Stanton, who became the Cornish wrestling champion of Cornwall at a tournament in Penzance, in the fifteenth century.[125] It is said that the wrestler was named this after chants at the tournament of "Stand-to-un, boy!"[126]
W Sampson, originally from Penzance, was Cornish wrestling champion of Toronto in 1907.[127]
Earnest Small, from Penzance, was West of England champion in 1906.[128][129] He was Cornish champion in 1906 defeating Sidney and Reuben Chapman.[130][131] He defeated Ahmed Madrali.[129]
Media
The local newspaper is The Cornishman, published weekly. Outback, a lesbian newsletter, was self-published in Penzance between 1996 and 2008.[132]
Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC South West and ITV West Country.
The local radio stations are
There are two ILR stations for Cornwall:Folklore
When the area between Marazion and Penzance was mainly marsh, people tended to avoid the Eastern Green because of the "White Lady". She would jump onto a horse (already with rider) and ride pillion as far as the Red River, Chyandour (not the
Cornish language
Passengers using the station are greeted with a
.Notable residents past and present
Penzance has been home to numerous persons of note, including actress Thandiwe Newton, model Jean Shrimpton and cricketer Jack Richards. Penzance was the birthplace of Maria Branwell, mother of three famous novelists – Charlotte Brontë, Emily Brontë and Anne Brontë.
Sir Humphry Davy
Penzance was the birthplace of the chemist Sir
Twinning
Penzance is
- Concarneau, Brittany, France
- Victoria, Australia
- Nevada City, California, United States
- Penwith District Council. As of April 2009, the arrangement was reinstated.
Freedom of the Town
The following people and military units have received the Freedom of the Town of Penzance.
Individuals
- 25 April 1958: Sir Edward Bolitho, Lord Lieutenant of Cornwall 1936–1962.[136]
See also
References
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- ^ "Town populations: Data from the 2011 Census (Office for National Statistics) built from Lower Layer Super Output Areas". Cornwall Council. Retrieved 13 February 2013.
- ^ Gainey, Tom (10 December 2017). "Cornwall's smuggling past - a look at six pubs at the heart of a 'golden age' of criminality". The Cornishman.
- ISBN 0192831313.
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- ^ Courtney, J. S. (1845) "Half a Century of Penzance (1825–1875), edited by Louise Courtney, 1878". In: Pool, P. A. S. (1974) The History of the Town and Borough of Penzance. Penzance: Corporation of Penzance.
- ^ "Extent of the Property of Henry Tyes in the Manor of Alverton. Transcribed from the Latin by Paul Brand". Pool, P. A. S. (1974) The History of the Town and Borough of Penzance. Penzance: The Corporation of Penzance.
- ^ 48th Report Deputy Keeper of Public Record (1887) 236, 298, 335. In Pool, P. A. S. (1974) The History of the Town and Borough of Penzance. Penzance: The Corporation of Penzance.
- ^ Canon Diggens Archive 1910
- ^ Notes on the Madron Parish Registers -Canon Jennings
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External links
- Penzance travel guide from Wikivoyage
- Penzance Town Council
- Cornwall Record Office Online Catalogue for Penzance