Relaxer
A relaxer is a type of lotion or cream generally used by people with tight curls or very curly hair which makes hair easier to straighten by chemically "relaxing" the natural curls. The active agent is usually a strong alkali, although some formulations are based on ammonium thioglycolate or formaldehyde.
History
The first documented history of the relaxer began with
General usage
Hair relaxing, or lanthionization, colloquially known as a perm, can be performed by a professional
The relaxer is applied to the base of the hair shaft and remains in place for a "cooking" interval, during which it alters the hair's texture by a process of controlled damage to the protein structure. The hair can be significantly weakened by the physical overlap of excessive applications or by a single excessive one, leading to brittleness, breakage, or even widespread
When the relaxer has worked to the desired degree, the hair is rinsed clean. Regardless of formula, relaxers are always alkaline to some degree, so it is prudent to neutralize or even slightly acidify the hair with a suitable shampoo immediately afterward. The prompt use of hair conditioner is also important in order to replace some of the natural oils that were stripped away by the process.
Types
Thio relaxers
Thio relaxers use ATG, or ammonium thioglycolate, which is also used in permanent waving, but at a much higher pH and concentration than used in permanent waves. It is usually higher than a pH of 10. These relaxers are also thicker with a higher viscosity, or thickness, which makes for an easier relaxer application. Thio relaxers break the disulfide bonds in hair, similar to the permanent waving process. When enough of the disulfide bonds in the hair are broken, the relaxer is rinsed from the hair and the hair is towel dried. After towel drying, a neutralizer of some sort is applied to the hair.
Alkaline and lye relaxers
A lye relaxer consists of
Manufacturers vary the sodium hydroxide content of the solution from 5% to 10% and the pH between 10 and 14.
"Base" and "no base" formulas
Entirely distinct from the chemical concept of base as a wider definition for "alkaline", lye relaxers may be labelled as "base" or "no base". In this instance, the "base" refers to a preliminary coating of petroleum jelly onto the scalp to protect it from being irritated or burned by the lye cream. "No base" creams have a lower concentration of lye and may be applied directly to the hair roots without requiring the protective "base" layer, although these weaker products may still irritate the skin of some people who must therefore coat their scalps beforehand anyway.
"No lye" relaxers
Because of increasing awareness of the potential dangers of sodium hydroxide found in traditional relaxer formulas, many women have begun abandoning them.[1] "No-lye" relaxers have become increasingly popular. "No-lye" relaxers are of three main types. One type operates on the same general principle as lye relaxers but uses a slightly weaker alkaline agent, such as potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. The last of these is not pre-formulated, but rather is generated at the time of use by combining a cream containing calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) with an "activating solution" of guanidine carbonate.
Another type of "no-lye" relaxer uses
Lastly, in most relaxers sold for home use, the active agents are ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite (the two compounds are interchangeable, depending on the surrounding pH). These also selectively reduce the cystine bonds, but are much weaker and work more slowly. Nevertheless, their mild action minimizes (but does not entirely eliminate) collateral irritation to the skin.
Commercial sale
Early in the 1900s hair relaxing products emerged, such as "G.A. brandi's hair Cream." Sale of "lye relaxers" began in 1917 by companies such as Proline. They also produced the first commercial "no lye relaxer" using potassium hydroxide in 1919.
A product falsely marketed as
Down Perm
A Down Perm (Korean: 다운 펌) is a type of hair relaxing product used in Asia with its origins in South Korea.[4] It is designed to relax Asian hair which tends to stick out, most noticeably after washing it.[5]
Risks
The hair of some Africans is elliptical in shape and therefore very tightly curled (east Asian hair tends to be round and European hair is in-between). The relaxer cream breaks down the chemical bonds of the hair shaft, disrupting the elliptical shape and reconstructing the bonds in a different way. Though hair follicles themselves are not damaged, the hair can become very brittle and break off. There is also risk of scalp burns if the relaxer comes into contact with the skin. Some professionals apply a scalp base cream or protector prior to application to protect the client's scalp from chemical burns. Cosmetic products are not subject to pre-market approval by the
Uterine leiomyomata
A prospective cohort study of more than 22,000 African-American women showed an association between the use of relaxers and risk of uterine
Breast cancer
A potential causal link between relaxers and breast cancer was found by researchers associated with the Black Women’s Health Study [1]
See also
- Afro-textured hair
- Hair iron
- Hair straightening
- Hot comb
- Natural hair
- Perm (hairstyle)
- Garret Morgan
References
- ^ "Relaxer and Hair Loss In Women" retrieved November 26, 2009.
- ISBN 978-0-7567-6982-6. Retrieved 23 September 2011.
- ^ a b Kurtzweil, Paula (March 1996). "Hair relaxers destroyed after consumers complain – products sold by World Rio Corp", FDA Consumer.
- ^ "Style of Korea by Dusol Beauty: Hair Advice : Men's Down Perm". Style of Korea by Dusol Beauty. 2014-12-08. Retrieved 2020-09-28.
- ^ http://www.hairplus.sg/latest/men-style-korean-down-perm [dead link]
- PMID 22234483.
- ^ "Chemical relaxers linked to high uterine fibroid risk among African-American Women? I doubt it". Retrieved August 14, 2014.
- ^ "View Rule". www.reginfo.gov. Retrieved 2023-10-21.
- Garrett Augustus Morgan Cleveland Business Man and Inventor. Rhode Island College [2]