River Fleet
51°30′39″N 0°6′16″W / 51.51083°N 0.10444°W
The River Fleet is the largest of
The river gives its name to Fleet Street, the eastern end of which is at what was the crossing over the river known as Fleet Bridge, and is now the site of Ludgate Circus.
Name
The river's name is derived from the
The lower reaches of the river were known as the Holbourne (or Oldbourne), whence Holborn derived its name.[2]
The river gives its name to Fleet Street which runs from Ludgate Circus to Temple Bar at the Strand. In the 1970s, a London Underground tube line was planned to lie under the line of Fleet Street, provisionally named the Fleet line. However, it was renamed the Jubilee line in 1977, and plans for the part of the route through the City of London were subsequently abandoned. An alternative name for the River Fleet was 'Holborn', deriving from the word 'Bourne', cf. 'Burn', meaning 'river' or 'stream'. This gave its name to that part of London.
Course and tributaries
The Fleet rises on Hampstead Heath as two sources, which flow on the surface as the Hampstead Ponds and the Highgate Ponds. They then go underground, pass under Kentish Town, join in Camden Town, and flow onwards towards St Pancras Old Church, which was sited on the river's banks. From there the river passed in a sinuous course which is responsible for the unusual building line adjacent to King's Cross station; the German Gymnasium faced the river banks, and the curve of the Great Northern Hotel follows that of the Fleet, which passes alongside it. King's Cross was originally named Battle Bridge, a corruption of Broad Ford Bridge referring to an older crossing of the Fleet.[3] In turn John Nelson in his The History, Topography, and Antiquities of the Parish of St. Mary Islington of 1811 linked a supposed Roman army camp found under some nearby brick fields with the site of Boudica's final battle, based only on his comparison of the local topography with the scant description of the battlefield supplied by the near-contemporary historian Tacitus.[4] The name was changed in the 19th century to refer to an unpopular statue of George IV erected in 1830 but, although it was replaced after only fifteen years, the name remains.
From there, it heads down King's Cross Road and other streets, including
At Farringdon Street the valley broadens out and straightens to join the Thames beneath Blackfriars Bridge. In the lower reaches, the valley slopes in the surrounding streets which explains the presence of three viaduct bridges (at Holborn Viaduct across Farringdon Street, another over Shoe Lane, and another on Rosebery Avenue where it crosses Warner Street).
Lamb's Conduit
A small tributary flowed west to east to join the Fleet near Mount Pleasant. This was later utilised to feed Lamb's Conduit. The line of the original brook formed Holborn's boundary with St Pancras to the north. The sweeping curve of Roger Street is part of that boundary line.[6]
Fagswell Brook
The Fagswell Brook (also spelled Faggeswell) was a tributary that joined the Fleet from the east and partially formed the northern boundary of the City of London.[7] The brook flowed east to west on a line approximating to Charterhouse Street and Charterhouse Square. In 1603, the historian John Stow described its demise:
Fagges Well, neare unto Smithfield by the Charterhouse, now lately dammed up.[8]
A part of the course close to Charterhouse Square was excavated as part of the Crossrail project.[9]
Today
The Fleet, which is now a sewer that follows its route, can be seen and heard through a grating in Ray Street,
The former mayor of London, Boris Johnson, proposed opening short sections of the Fleet and other rivers for ornamental purposes,[11] although the Environment Agency – which manages the project – is pessimistic that the Fleet can be among those uncovered.[12]
History
In
In
As London grew, the river became increasingly a
Following the
The upper canal, unpopular and unused, was from 1737 enclosed between Holborn and Ludgate Circus to form the "Fleet Market". The lower part, the section from Ludgate Circus to the Thames, had been covered by 1769 for the opening of the new Blackfriars Bridge and was consequently named "New Bridge Street".
The development of the
The history of the River Fleet was documented by the nineteenth century artist and historian Anthony Crosby. His sketches and notes are held in the Crosby Collection[16] at the London Metropolitan Archives. The archive has been used extensively by researchers, historians and publishers to provide images and contemporary descriptions of the 19th century River Fleet during the period where it was undergoing significant change.
Cultural references
- Ben Jonson's poem "On the Famous Voyage" provides a mock-epic account of a journey along the excrement-lined ditch during the early 17th century.[17][18]
- Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver's Travels) mentions the filth in the Fleet during a storm in a poem of 1710:[19]
Sweepings from Butchers Stalls, Dung, Guts and Blood,
Drown'd Puppies, stinking Sprats, all drench'd in Mud,
Dead Cats and Turnip-Tops come tumbling down the Flood. - In Dead London.depicts the disposal of a murder victim's body through an access hatch into the Fleet sewer pipe, where it is washed out into the Thames.
- In Neil Gaiman's television serial and novel Neverwhere (1996), the Great Beast of London is said to be a feral boar hog that ran into the Fleet while it was still partially open to the air, and vanished underground into the depths of London Below, growing huge and fat off the sewage.
- The 2003–2004 Baroque Cycle, Neal Stephenson's three volumes series set in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, has many references to the Fleet Ditch, including discussion of the polluted state of the waterway.
- The Christopher Fowler crime thriller The Water Room (2004) uses the Fleet as a major setting.
- In Guy Ritchie's Sherlock Holmes (2009), a blindfolded Sherlock (played by Robert Downey Jr.) uses the presence of the bump at the 'Fleet Conduit' in order to gain his bearings: "After that, the carriage forked left, then right, and then the tell-tale bump at the Fleet Conduit."
- In John Twelve Hawks "The Golden City" (The Fourth Realm Trilogy) 2010, the Fleet is an important part of the chapters 29 and 30.
- The Fleet is mentioned in the novel Rivers of London (2011) by Ben Aaronovitch; and in Blue Monday (2011) by crime novelist Nicci French.
- "London Underground", a 2014 episode (Season 11 episode 5) of BBC One drama New Tricks, features a storyline about a murder by an occult group in the 1970s who believed that the Fleet demanded human sacrifices. Airdate 15 September 2014
- The novel Goodnight, John-Boy (2017) by Pat Mills
- Fleet, a sequence of poems by Paul O'Prey published in 2021, traces the course of the buried river.[20]
See also
- Tributaries of the River Thames
- Subterranean rivers of London
- List of rivers in England
References
- ^ "fleet, n.2". Oxford English Dictionary. Oxford, England: Oxford University Press. 1989.
- ISBN 0-7195-5288-5.
- ^ Godfrey, Walter; Marcham, W. (1952). "King's Cross Neighbourhood". Survey of London. Vol. 24. London: Victoria County History.
- OCLC 1016252323.
- ^ 'West of Farringdon Road', in Survey of London: Volume 47, Northern Clerkenwell and Pentonville, ed. Philip Temple (London, 2008), pp. 22-51. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol47/pp22-51 [accessed 2 August 2020].
- ^ The History of the River Fleet, UCL Fleet Restoration Team, 2009
- ^ From a map based on Stow c.1600, (discussed in "Street-names of the City of London", (1954) by Eilert Ekwall) shows the "Fagswell Brook" south of Cowcross Street as the northern boundary of the City
- ^ 'Introduction', in Survey of London: Volume 46, South and East Clerkenwell, ed. Philip Temple (London, 2008), pp. 3–27. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol46/pp3-27 [accessed 27 July 2020].
- ^ article on MOLA excavations http://islingtontribune.com/article/crossrail-engineers-find-500-year-old-shoes-in-clerkenwell-mud
- ^ Bolton, Tom (3 July 2020). "Where to see and hear the hidden River Fleet". Londonist. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
- ^ Boris Johnson to revive London’s lost rivers (payment required)
- ^ Jowit, Juliette (8 January 2009). "River rescue: project launched to breathe life into waterways buried under London concrete and brick". The Guardian. p. 15. Retrieved 8 January 2009.
- ^ Spain, Rob: "A possible Roman Tide Mill", Paper submitted to the Kent Archaeological Society
- ^ Wickstead, Thomas (January 1840). "On the supply of water to the Metropolis". The Civil Engineer and Architect's Journal. III (28): 10.
- ^ Dunciad, book the second
- ^ [Crosby Collection at the London Metropolitan Archive https://www.londonpicturearchive.org.uk/collection?i=322296]
- ^ Jonson, Ben. "On the Famous Voyage". sewerhistory.org. Archived from the original on 23 April 2013. Retrieved 9 April 2013.
- ^ McRae, Andrew (1998). "'On the Famous Voyage': Ben Jonson and Civic Space". Early Modern Literary Studies. 4 (Special Issue 3).
- ^ Talling, Paul. "London's Lost Rivers: River Fleet". Retrieved 24 January 2016.
- ^ Zakir-Hussain, Maryam (30 July 2021). "Hampstead Poet Paul O'Prey". Ham and High. Retrieved 15 September 2021.
External links
- Sub-Urban.com – River Fleet
- Photos From The Buried River Fleet
- Chesca Potter, "The River of Wells"
- Map showing Ray Street Bridge
- Google Earth view of Hampstead Heath, showing the Hampstead Ponds and the Highgate Ponds.