Sack-back gown
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The sack-back gown or robe à la française was a women's fashion of 18th century Europe.[1] At the beginning of the century, the sack-back gown was a very informal style of dress. At its most informal, it was unfitted both front and back and called a sacque, contouche, or robe battante. By the 1770s the sack-back gown was second only to court dress in its formality. This style of gown had fabric at the back arranged in box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the floor with a slight train. In front, the gown was open, showing off a decorative stomacher and petticoat. It would have been worn with a wide square hoop or panniers under the petticoat. Scalloped ruffles often trimmed elbow-length sleeves, which were worn with separate frills called engageantes.
The casaquin (popularly known from the 1740s onwards as a pet-en-l'air) was an abbreviated version of the robe à la française worn as a jacket for informal wear with a matching or contrasting petticoat.[2][3] The skirt of the casaquin was knee-length but gradually shortened until by the 1780s it resembled a peplum.[3]
The loose box pleats which are a feature of this style are sometimes called Watteau pleats from their appearance in the paintings of Antoine Watteau.[4] The various Watteau terms, such as Watteau pleat, Watteau back, Watteau gown etc., date from the mid-19th century rather than reflecting authentic 18th century terminology, and normally describe 19th and 20th century revivals of the sack-back.[5]
Notable wearers
A popular story, traced back to the correspondence of
Galleries
18th century
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L'Enseigne de Gersaint (detail), 1720, by Antoine Watteau. Early example of a sack-back gown. -
La Déclaration d'amour, 1731, byJean François de Troy. Front and back views of women in sack-back gowns. -
Robe à la française, Netherlands, silk satin brocaded with silk and metallic threads, 1740-60. LACMA M.2007.211.928 -
Eleanor Frances Dixie, c. 1753, by Henry Pickering. The sitter is wearing a bergère hat and a brocaded silk sack-back gown. -
Robe à la française, France, block-printed cotton, c. 1770. LACMA M.2007.211.718
Post-18th century revival styles
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Two women in Watteau back gowns, painted by Victor Borisov-Musatov, Russia, 1899. -
Tea gown with a Watteau back, December 1899. Published in La Mode illustré.
See also
- 1700–1750 in fashion
- 1750–1775 in fashion
References
- ^ "robe à la française | Fashion History Timeline". fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu. Retrieved 2021-12-01.
- ISBN 9781847887382.
- ^ ISBN 0571085946.
- ISBN 9781847885906. Retrieved 20 July 2012.
- ISBN 9781847885333. Retrieved 20 July 2012.
- ^ Duchess of Orleans, Elizabeth Charlotte (1824). Secret memoirs of the court of Louis XIV, and of the regency; extracted from the German correspondence of the duchess of Orleans. p. 110.
- ^ Philippe Erlanger, Le Régent, Paris, Gallimard, 1966 (1st ed. 1938), pp. 227-228
Bibliography
- Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's dresses & their construction c. 1660–1860. Drama Publishers, 1977. ISBN 0-89676-026-X
- Burnston, Sharon Ann. Fitting and Proper: 18th Century Clothing from the Collection of the Chester County Historical Society. Scurlock Pub Co, 2000. ISBN 1-880655-10-1
- Hart, Avril, and Susan North. Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail. V&A Publishing, 2009. ISBN 1-85177-567-6
- Jackson, Anna, ed. (2001). V&A: A Hundred Highlights. V&A Publications.
- ISBN 0-300-06287-7
- Ribeiro, Aileen: Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 1715–1789, Yale University Press, 2002, ISBN 0-300-09151-6
External links
- 18th Century Robes à la Française
- How to Make a Contouche, also known as sack back dress, saque, or robe à la française
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