Savaiʻi

Coordinates: 13°35′S 172°25′W / 13.583°S 172.417°W / -13.583; -172.417
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
For the original homeland of in Polynesian oral traditon sometimes referred to as Savaiʻi, see Hawaiki.

Savaiʻi
Nickname: Soul of Samoa
Mt Matavanu
(1905–1911)
Earth Observatory
, July 2010

Savaiʻi is the largest and highest

Hawaii and Maui
. While it is larger than the second main island, Upolu, it is significantly less populated.

Samoans sometimes refer to the island of Savaiʻi as Salafai: This is its classical Samoan name, and is used in formal oratory and prose. The island is home to 43,958 people (2016 census), and they make up 24% of the population of Samoa.[1] The island’s only

ferry terminal is called Salelologa. It is the main point of entry to the island, and is situated at the east end of Savaiʻi. A tar sealed road serves as the single main highway
, connecting most of the villages. Local bus routes also operate, reaching most settlements.

Savaiʻi is made up of six itūmālō (

political independence during colonialism in the early 1900s, had its beginnings on Savaiʻi, with the Mau a Pule movement.[2]

The island is the largest

Central Savaiʻi Rainforest, extending over 72,699 hectares (727 km2), which is the largest contiguous rainforest in Polynesia. It is dotted with more than 100 volcanic craters and contains most of Samoa's native species of flora and fauna, making it one of the world’s most globally significant conservation areas.[3]

Society and culture

Studio photo depicting the Samoa ʻava ceremony, 1911
Two men fishing from canoe, 1914

modern life and less development than on the island of Upolu, where the capital, Apia
, is located.

Samoan society is communal and based on extended family relationships and socio-cultural obligations, so that kinship and genealogies are important. These faʻa Sāmoa values are also associated with concepts of love (alofa), service (tautua) to family and community, respect (faʻaaloalo) and discipline (usitaʻi).[4] Most families are made up of a number of different households situated close to each other.

Like the rest of Samoa, Savaiʻi is made up of villages with most of the land

matai, the holders of family names and titles. An extended family can have a number of chiefs with different chief titles. Men and women in Samoa have equal rights to chief titles which are bestowed by consensus of the extended family. Traditionally, male and female roles are defined by labours and tasks, chiefly status and age. Women play an important role contributing to family decisions as well as village governance.[5] Elders are revered and respected. Social relationships are dictated by cultural etiquettes
of politeness and common greetings.

The Samoan language has a 'polite' and formal variant used in Samoan oratory and ceremony as well as in communication with elders, guests, people of rank and strangers. In all villages, the majority of people are largely sustained by plantation work and fishing[6] with financial assistance from relatives working in Apia or overseas. Most people live in coastal villages although there are some settlements inland such as the villages of Aopo, Patamea and Sili.

Behind the villages are cultivated plantations with crops of

native plants such as pandanus for weaving ʻie tōga fine mats and bark for tapa cloth
.

There is a church in every village, mostly Christian denominations.[7] Sunday is sacred and a day of rest as 98% of Samoans identify themselves as religious. White Sunday is one of the most important days of the year in Samoa when children are treated with special attention by their families and community.

History

World War II

During

Wallis Island and later extended in 1944 to cover bases in other islands such as Bora Bora and the Cook Islands
. A military governor of the Samoa Defense Group was Brigadier General Henry L. Larsen who had secret orders mandating a defensive position of the islands from east to west. The code name for the entire group of islands was "Straw" and the code name for Savaiʻi was "Strawman". The code for Upolu was "Strawhat", Tutuila "Strawstack" while Wallis Island was "Strawboard". A small base was set up on the central north coast village of Fagamalo, which had a wharf and anchorage. Fagamalo was the main village for the colonial administration at the time on Savaiʻi, situated where the small post office is today.

In its present unprotected state, Western Samoa is a hazard of first magnitude for the defense of American Samoa. The conclusion is inescapable that if we don't occupy it the Japanese will and there may not be a great deal of time left.

—8 February 1943 Report on Western Samoa defence by 2nd Marine Brigade's intelligence officer, Lieutenant Colonel William L. Bales.[8]

On 18 May 1942 the 3rd Marine Brigade with 4,853 officers and men were on Upolu and Savaiʻi under the command of Brigadier General Charles D. Barrett.

1839 Wilkes Expedition

Charles Wilkes

In October 1839, Savaiʻi and the

Samoa Islands were surveyed by the famous United States Exploring Expedition led by Charles Wilkes. The survey of Savaiʻi was performed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold aboard the U.S. Brig Porpoise. Wilkes and other ships in the expedition were surveying Upolu and Tutuila at the same time. The Porpoise first touched down at the village of Sapapaliʻi. Some of the team, Dr Pickering and Lieutenant Maury were dropped off while the brig surveyed the island's coastline and tides. Dr Pickering and the lieutenant were hosted by the resident missionary at Sapapaliʻi, the Reverend Mr. Hardie. The Porpoise examined the bay of Palauli where there was a missionary station under the supervision of a Mr M'Donald. Wilkes' report also described Saleaula village, Asau at the west end of the island and 'the beautiful village of Falealupo' which was under the charge of a Tongan missionary. At the 'north point' of the island, the brig found 'good anchorage' in the bay of Matautu
(where the village of Fagamalo is situated). The brig was anchored and the harbour surveyed. Wilkes' wrote that this was the harbour on the island where a vessel could anchor in safety. Here, in Matautu, the explorers noticed a difference with other parts of Savaiʻi.

A great difference in form, physiognomy and manners...was observed here, as well as a change in the character of many articles of manufacture. The warclubs and spears were of uncommon form, and neatly made.

On 24 October, Wilkes writes, that the Porpoise arrived back at Sapapaliʻi village, having been gone nine days. The team met paramount chief Malietoa and his son at the village. With local guides Dr Pickering had travelled some way into the interior of the island, reaching one side of a volcanic crater about one thousand feet above the sea and some seven miles (11 km) inland.[9]

One 10 November 1839, the Wilkes Expedition weighed anchor at Apia and sailed westward, and on 11 November, had lost sight of Savaiʻi.

Exiled orator Lauaki Namulauulu Mamoe

Notable places and people

Politics

See also:
Fa'amatai and Politics of Samoa
Lelepa village, Savaiʻi (2009). Samoan architecture
dictates seating positions for chiefs and orators according to rank.

With the country's independence in 1962, Samoa incorporates both traditional political structures alongside a western parliamentary system. The modern national Government of Samoa, based in the capital

matai
titles are eligible to become Members of Parliament.

Alongside Samoa's national and modern political structure is traditional authority vested in family chiefs (matai). The term Pule is applied to traditional authority in Savaiʻi.

The word Pule refers to appointments or authorities conferred on certain clans or individuals, sometime in the political history of Samoa. This traditional Pule authority was centred in certain villages around Savaiʻi. In the early 20th century, these Pule areas on Savaiʻi island were

Asau, Satupaʻitea and Palauli.[14] Safotu, Asau, Satupaʻitea and Vailoa (Palauli district) gained 'Pule' status at different times in the 19th Century, and together with the two older Pule districts, Safotulafai and Saleaula, became the six Pule centres on Savaiʻi.[15]

In 1908, the 'Mau a Pule' resistance movement to colonial rule, which grew to become the national Mau movement, began on Savaiʻi and represented traditional authority against the German administration of Samoa. The equivalent term 'Tumua' is associated with traditional authority on Upolu island.

At the local level throughout Samoa, traditional authority is vested in a chiefs' council (fono o matai) in each village. The fono o matai carry out 'village law' and socio-political governance based on their traditional authority and faʻa Samoa. The authority of the matai is balanced against central government, the Malo. Most of the matai are males, however, the women in each village also have a voice in domestic affairs through the women's committees.

Districts of Samoa map

The main government administration offices of the Malo on Savaiʻi are situated in the village of Tuasivi, 10 minutes north of the ferry terminal and market at Salelologa. There's a district hospital, police station, post office and court houses in Tuasivi.

Vaʻai Kolone, a matai and businessman from Vaisala, at the west end of the island, became the Prime Minister of Samoa twice in the 1980s.

Samoa has 11 political districts (itūmālō) and 6 are in Savaiʻi; Faʻasaleleaga, Gagaʻemauga, Gagaʻifomauga, Palauli, Satupaʻitea and Vaisigano.

Scenery and landscape

Samoa scenic coastline

Savaiʻi is mountainous, fertile and surrounded by coral reefs.

Archaeology in Samoa has uncovered many pre-historic settlements including sites at Vailoa and Sapapaliʻi
.

Myths and legends

Matautu village, north coast Savaiʻi (1902)

Rich in Polynesian history and oral tradition, Savaiʻi is mentioned in myths and legends across the

Pacific Islands and has been called the "Cradle of Polynesia."[20]

earthquakes. There were also a number of war gods. Nafanua, Samoa's warrior goddess, hails from the village of Falealupo at the west end of the island, which is also the site of the entry into Pulotu, the spirit world. Nafanua's father Saveasiʻuleo was the god of Pulotu.[22] Another well-known legend tells of two sisters, Tilafaiga and Taema, bringing the art of tattooing to Samoa from Fiti. Tilafaiga is the mother of Nafanua. The freshwater pool Mata o le Alelo 'Eyes of the Demon' from the Polynesian legend Sina and the Eel is situated in the village of Matavai on the north coast in the village district of Safune.[23] Another figure of legend is Tui Fiti, who resides at Fagamalo village in the village district of Matautu on the central north coast. The village of Falelima
is associated with a dreaded spirit deity called Nifoloa.

Savaiʻi is known as the "Soul of Samoa." "Here the 20th century has put down the shallowest roots, and the faʻa Samoa—the Samoan way—has the most meaning."[24]

Flora and fauna

young Piper methysticum, dried root used to make ava or kava

Flora

See also:
Samoan plant names

The tropical climate and fertile soil results in a variety of flora. Vegetation types include littoral, wetland and volcanic vegetation.

montane forests (above 500m elevation). Cloud forests
are located in the highest elevations of the island which are often under cloud cover with wet conditions. At Mt Silisili, cloud forest occurs above 1200 m elevation. The Savaiʻi forest is dominated by a 15 to 20 m high canopy of Dysoxylum huntii, Omalanthus acuminatus, Reynoldsia pleiosperma and Pterophylla samoensis. Other common trees include Coprosma savaiiense, Psychotria xanthochlora, Spiraeanthemum samoense and Streblus anthropophagorum.[25] There are nearly 500 species of flowering plants and about 200 species of ferns in Samoa, making it richer than that of any tropical Polynesian island other than those in the Hawaiian archipelago.[26] About 25% of the species are endemic to Samoa.[27]

The variety of tropical plant life is also a material source for floral adornment,

Piper methysticum (Latin "pepper" and Latinized Greek "intoxicating") are mixed with water for the important ʻava ceremony
conducted during cultural events and gatherings.

Fauna

See also: List of birds of Samoa and List of mammals of Samoa
Male Hypolimnas bolina butterflies were almost wiped out in Savaiʻi.

Animal species include fruit bats such as the

Samoan moorhen (Gallinula pacifica), which was last recorded in 1873 near Aopo with possible sightings in 1984 and 2003.[29] The tooth-billed pigeon
, (Didunculus strigirostris), also known as the manumea is also endemic and now increasingly rare, leading to the current proposition to upgrade it to critically endangered. It is the national bird of Samoa and is found on some of the local currency. It is likely that the extensive loss of lowland forest, hunting and invasive species are responsible for the decline of this stunning species.

Samoa has more native species of ferns and butterflies than New Zealand, a country 85 times larger.[30] In 2006, research samples of the blue moon butterfly species (Hypolimnas bolina) on Savaiʻi found that males accounted for just 1% of the population and had almost been wiped out by an invasive species. Sampling a year later showed a dramatic comeback and recovery to 40%.[31]

The surrounding Pacific Ocean, coral reefs and lagoons are rich in marine life and some are harvested as an important source of food in an economy that is mainly subsistence with locals reliant on the land and the ocean for survival. Dolphins, whales and porpoises migrate through Samoa's waters.[32] The

Palolo reef worm
(Eunice viridis) is a Samoan cuisine delicacy which appear in the ocean only one day of the year. Palolo has cultural significance and entire villages flock to the sea for harvest.

Surrounded by a variety of tropical fauna, Samoan mythology is rich with stories of animals incorporated into their culture, traditional beliefs and way of life.

Conservation

See also: List of protected areas of Samoa
Green turtle
(Chelonia mydas)

The island is rich in

green turtles (Chelonia mydas) are kept by the locals as an eco-tourism experience for visitors and provide extra income for communities. Another turtle habitat is at the village of Auala
on the north west coast.

Travel information

Fotu o Samoa II ferry at Salelologa Ferry Terminal.

Ferry terminal

Asau
at the north west end of the island, sometimes used for yachting.

Driving

Savaiʻi has an excellent tar-seal road circling the island. A leisurely drive around the island takes under 3 hours. The scenic drive is mostly along the coastline where most of the locals live in villages. Driving in Samoa is on the left side of the road, effective from 7 September 2009 when the government changed the law to bring motoring in line with neighbouring countries. Samoa is the first country in the 21st century to switch to driving on the left.[34]

Airport

Coastal road

Maota Airport is a small airstrip with basic facilities situated 10-minutes south of Salelologa ferry terminal and township. Flights operate between Maota and Asau airstrip and Faleolo International Airport on Upolu. The inter-island flights take about 30-minutes.[35] Asau Airport is an airstrip at the north west end of the island which mainly services chartered flights.[36]

Amenities

A local market (open Monday – Saturday) at Salelologa sells fresh produce of fruit, vegetables and local crafts. There are also clothing stores, several small supermarkets, a wholesaler, petrol stations, bakeries, budget hotels and accommodation,[37] buses, taxis, rental car companies as well as public amenities such as internet access, banks and Western Union money transfer outlets. There are small local shops in every village around Savaiʻi, selling basic groceries. Markets and most shops in Samoa close on Sundays with smaller outlets opening late afternoon after church services.

Hospitals

The main hospital on Savaiʻi is the Malietoa Tanumafili II Hospital, situated in Tuasivi village.[38] Another district hospital is in Safotu, on the central north coast.

Tourism

Falealupo sunset
Beach at Lano village

Cultural context

With most of the land in Samoa under

matai, tourism experiences take place on village land and within local culture. There are hotels, but like the rest of Samoa, many villages provide beach fale accommodation for visitors all around the island such as Manase on the central north coast.[39]
These are small local businesses run by families within their villages and most of the income goes directly back to the community. There are island tours, diving, fishing, plantation trips, treks and other tourism related activities. Most shops are closed on Sundays with a few re-opening after church services in late afternoon. Every day, evening prayer (sa) takes place in every village around dusk before the evening meal and lasts about half an hour. It is usually signalled by the sound of a conch shell or the ringing of the church bell. The sa usually means no loud noise or walking through the village commons. Matai sometimes stand by the side of the main road, which pass through village land, to slow down traffic until prayers are over. Tourism is overseen by the government Samoa Visitors' Bureau, situated in the capital Apia, which can also help to settle disputes. At the village level, much of the country's civil and criminal matters can be dealt with directly by the matai chief village councils.

The last sunset in the world

The village of Falealupo on the westernmost point of Savaiʻi, is just 20 miles (32 km) from the dateline. It was arguably the last place in the world to see the sunset until a time zone change at end of 2011.[40] Falealupo was the site of Millennium 2000 celebrations and reported by the BBC as 'the last place on earth to enter the new millennium.'[41] Falealupo also has protected rainforests.

Surfing

Savaiʻi has

Lelepa and Fagamalo
.

Tourism development

In 2008, an American company South Pacific Development Group (SPDG) obtained a 120-year lease for 600 acres (2.4 km2) of prime oceanfront customary land in

Tuilaepa Aiono Sailele Malielegaoi in March 2010.[45]

The announcement of the tourist development raised concern among environmental group O Le Siʻosiʻomaga Society about the impact of the development.[46] The Samoa Hotel Association also expressed concern at the size of the development and its impact on the island's environment and infrastructure.[47] The development is supported by the Government of Samoa. The lease is unprecedented in Samoa where 80% of the land is under customary ownership, 6% freehold and the rest owned by the government.[48]

Film

A village in Safune, the setting of the film Moana (1926)

Moana (1926), one of the earliest documentaries made in the world, was filmed in Safune on the central north coast. The film was directed by Robert J. Flaherty who lived with his wife and children in Safune for more than a year. A cave with a pool in Safune was converted into a film processing laboratory and two young men from the village were trained to work there. Flaherty cast people from Safune in the film including local boy Taʻavale who played the lead role of 'Moana'. Another boy called Peʻa played the role of Moana's younger brother. Peʻa later became a chief with the title Taulealeausumai from the village of Faletagaloa. Playing the lead female role in the film was Faʻagase, a girl from Lefagaoaliʻi. The film also showed the young hero 'Moana' receiving a peʻa, a traditional Samoan tattoo.

Geography

Taga Blowholes
Diagram showing how islands are formed by hotspots

Savaiʻi island lies north west of Upolu. These two largest islands of Samoa are separated by the Apolima Strait which is about 8 miles (13 km) wide with the small inhabited islands of Manono and Apolima between them. Savaiʻi island is of volcanic origin and the mountainous interiors are covered with dense rain forests. The surrounding landscape consists of fertile plateaux and coastal plains with numerous rivers and streams.

Climate

NASA image showing Savaiʻi lying northwest of Upolu across the Apolima Strait.

The climate is oceanic tropical with high temperatures and humidity. The heaviest rainfall occurs between the months of November and April, and cyclones, which are relatively frequent, are most likely to occur during these same months.[25] Two cyclones, Cyclone Ofa (1990) and Cyclone Valerie (1991)[49] caused extensive damage on the north and west coast of Savaiʻi.

Geology

Savaiʻi is the largest shield volcano in the South Pacific[50] and only 3% is above water.[51] It is an

Taʻu Island, the most eastern of the Samoa islands, both erupted in the 20th century, data which is an enigma for scientists.[52] Taʻu last erupted in 1866. Another discrepancy in the data from the Samoa islands is that subaerial rock samples from Savaiʻi were too young by several million years to fit the classic hotspot model of age progression in an island chain, raising arguments among scientists that the Samoa islands does not have a plume origin. The nearness of Savaiʻi and the Samoa island chain to the Tonga Trench at the south became a possible explanation for these discrepancies as well as the possibility that the islands were formed by magma seeping through cracks in stressed fracture zones.[51] However, in 2005, an international team gathered further submarine samples from the deep flanks and rifts of Savaiʻi. Tests on these later samples showed much older ages, about five million years old, that fit the hotspot model.[53] The discovery in 1975 of Vailuluʻu Seamount 45 km east of Taʻu in American Samoa has since been studied by an international team of scientists and contribute towards understanding of the Earth's fundamental processes.[54]

Mt Matavanu
eruption, 1905

Pre-historic geological formations on SavaiʻI have created natural sites such as the

Mt Matavanu eruptions.[19]

Volcanic activity

The island consists of a large shield volcano similar in form to the Hawaiian volcanoes. Savaiʻi remains volcanically active, with recent eruptions from Matavanu between 1905 and 1911. The Matavanu eruptions flowed towards the central north coast and destroyed villages including Saleaula. Other recent volcanic eruptions include Mata o le Afi in 1902 and Mauga Afi in 1725. The lava field at Saleaula are extensive enough to be visible in high altitude photographs.[55]

Education

Samoa education system

Like the rest of the country, the education system on Savaiʻi is mostly

public education covering primary and secondary
schooling in villages. Education in Samoa is compulsory for children aged 5-years to 14-years or until the completion of Year 8.

  • Primary education – Year 1 – 8 (8-years)
  • Secondary education – Year 9 – 13 (5-years)

Entrance to secondary education is determined by a National Examinination at Year 8. Top achievers in government schools can enter

matai
.

Cost

Village responsibility

In both primary and secondary schools across Samoa, villages are responsible for school buildings, equipment, furniture, fundraising and collection of school fees.

ethnobotanist, Paul Cox, who had lived in the village with his family, raised funds internationally to save the school and create a conservation covenant with matai to protect their native forest.[57]

Government responsibility

The government is responsible for teachers, curriculum and educational materials as well as assessments and exams administered under the Ministry of Education, Sports and Culture.[58] The government also employs School Review Officers who are the main liaison with schools.

International aid

The government receives international aid for education from countries such as

Asia Development Bank launched an education sector program (ESPII) focusing on primary and secondary education over a number of years. The contribution from AUSaid is up to $14 million[59] dollars with NZAID committing NZ$12.5 million over five years.[60] Australia is also contributing $2 million towards a School Fee Grant Scheme to 163 primary schools during 2009–2010.[59] Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) also constributes significant aid towards education.[61]

Tertiary education

Most opportunities for tertiary education in the country are available on Upolu island, the location of the National University of Samoa and the Alafua Campus of the regional University of the South Pacific. International volunteer programmes including the American Peace Corps also provide teachers throughout schools in Savaiʻi and the rest of the country.

School calendar

Map of Savaiʻi schools, 2009
School Terms Dates Duration
Term 1 1 February – 15 May (15 weeks)
Term 2 7 June – 3 September (13 weeks)
Term 3 20 September – 10 December (12 weeks)
School holidays 2010 dates
15 May – 6 June
5–19 September
11 December – 30 January

List of schools in Savaiʻi

Main article: List of schools in Savaiʻi

There are 9 secondary schools and 48 primary schools on the island.[62]

Public library

Savaiʻi Public Library is the only public library on the island. It is situated by the old market in the township of Salelologa at the east end of Savaiʻi. The library is a branch of the central Samoa Public Library in the capital Apia on Upolu island.[63]

Public holidays

Public holidays;[56]

Holiday Date
Good Friday Varies
Easter Monday Varies
Mother's Day 10 May
Samoa Independence Day 1 June (celebrations)
Father's Day 9 August
White Sunday (2nd Sunday of October) Varies
Christmas Day 25 December
Boxing Day 26 December

Samoa gained political independence from New Zealand on 1 January 1962. However, independence celebrations take place on 1 June, each year.[64]

Gallery

  • Savaiʻi island from space (NASA photo)
    Savaiʻi island from space (NASA photo)
  • Historic church in Safotu village.
    Historic church in Safotu village.
  • Alofaʻaga blowholes in Taga village, Palauli
    Alofaʻaga blowholes in Taga village, Palauli
  • View from Pulemelei Mound
    View from Pulemelei Mound
  • Mu Pagoa Waterfall in Palauli district.
    Mu Pagoa Waterfall in Palauli district.
  • Stone church in Satupaʻitea on Savaiʻi c. 1908
    Stone church in Satupaʻitea on Savaiʻi c. 1908
  • Local bus
    Local bus
  • Lava fields on Savaiʻi
    Lava fields on Savaiʻi
  • Sunset at Sapapaliʻi
    Sunset at Sapapaliʻi
  • Samoa fire dance siva afi
    Samoa fire dance siva afi
  • Beach fale, popular in eco-tourism in villages around the coast.
    Beach fale, popular in eco-tourism in villages around the coast.
  • Fishing canoe (vaʻa) with small outrigger
    Fishing canoe (vaʻa) with small outrigger
  • View from the ferry with tiny Apolima island and Savaiʻi coast (right).
    View from the ferry with tiny Apolima island and Savaiʻi coast (right).
  • Mount Matavanu volcano, 1906
    Mount Matavanu volcano, 1906
  • Breadfruit tree (Artocarpus altilis), a staple food in Samoa.
    Breadfruit tree (
    Artocarpus altilis
    ), a staple food in Samoa.
  • Roast coacoa koko beans grown locally for hot Samoan koko drink.
    Roast coacoa koko beans grown locally for hot Samoan koko drink.

See also

References

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  4. ^ 3. Culture and identity – Samoans – Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand Faʻa Sāmoa, Samoan culture, New Zealand Encyclopaedia Archived 2 November 2012 at the Wayback Machine
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  9. ^ Wilkes, Charles (1849). Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. C. Sherman. p. 110.
  10. ISBN 978-2-8254-0692-2
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  27. ^ [2] Government of Samoa, 1998
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External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Savai'i.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Savaii.
New International Encyclopedia article "Savaii
".

13°35′S 172°25′W / 13.583°S 172.417°W / -13.583; -172.417

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