Snowdon

Coordinates: 53°4′6.59″N 4°4′34.43″W / 53.0684972°N 4.0762306°W / 53.0684972; -4.0762306
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Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Not to be confused with Snowdonia.
For other uses, see Snowdon (disambiguation).

Snowdon
Yr Wyddfa
Nuttall, Welsh 3000s, council top, Ribu
Coordinates53°4′6.59″N 4°4′34.43″W / 53.0684972°N 4.0762306°W / 53.0684972; -4.0762306[2]
Naming
Native nameYr Wyddfa (Welsh)
Geography
Snowdon Yr Wyddfa is located in Gwynedd
Snowdon Yr Wyddfa
Snowdon
Yr Wyddfa
Gwynedd, Wales
Parent rangeSnowdonia
OS gridSH6098954379
Topo mapOS Landranger 115, Explorer OL17
Climbing
Easiest routeLlanberis Path
Listed summits
of Snowdon
Name Grid ref Height Status
Crib y Ddysgl
 SH610551 1,065 m (3,494 ft)
Nuttall
Crib Goch SH624551 923 m (3,028 ft)
Nuttall
Craig Fach SH635552 609 m (1,998 ft) sub-
Hewitt
Craig Wen SH597508 605 m (1,985 ft) sub-
Hewitt

Snowdon (

Snowdonia National Park
.

The rocks that form Snowdon were produced by

glaciation, forming the pyramidal peak of Snowdon and the arêtes of Crib Goch and Y Lliwedd. It is part of the larger Snowdon range, which includes Garnedd Ugain, Yr Aran, and Moel Eilio.[3] There are several lakes on the mountain, the largest of which is Llyn Lydaw
(110 acres (45 ha)), located on the eastern flank at 1,430 ft (440 m).

The mountain is the busiest in the United Kingdom and the third most visited attraction in Wales. In 2019 it was climbed by 590,984 walkers; there are six main paths to the summit, the most popular of which begins in the town of Llanberis, to the north of Snowdon.[4] The summit can also be reached using the Snowdon Mountain Railway, which carried 140,000 passengers in 2019.[5][6] The rack railway, which opened in 1896, operates over 4+3⁄4 miles (7.6 kilometres), from Llanberis to the Summit station. It generally operates from March to the end of October, with trains running to the summit station from May. The cliff faces on Snowdon, including Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, are significant for rock climbing, and the mountain was used by Edmund Hillary in training for the 1953 ascent of Mount Everest. The mountain, alongside Ben Nevis in Scotland and Scafell Pike in England, is climbed as part of the National Three Peaks Challenge.[7]

Toponymy

Illustration of King Arthur battling a giant

The name "Snowdon" is first recorded in 1095 as Snawdune, and is derived from the Old English elements snaw and dun, meaning "snow hill".[8][9]

The Welsh name of the mountain, Yr Wyddfa, is first recorded in Latin as Weddua vaur in 1284. This is probably an approximation of Pen y Wyddfa Fawr. The element gwyddfa in this context means 'height, promontory', and also appears in the Welsh name for the town of Mold, Yr Wyddgrug.[9]

Gwyddfa later developed the meaning "burial cairn", and there is a legend that the giant

Rhita is buried under the mountain's summit cairn.[9][10] According to one legend, the giant Rhita was defeated and buried on the mountain by King Arthur whilst another legend suggests that Rhita was killed by the giant Idris who lived on the mountain Cadair Idris.[11][12] The mountain is also linked to other figures from Arthurian legend, a legendary Afanc (water monster) and the Tylwyth Teg (fairies).[8]

Environment

Geography and geology

glaciation

A 1682 survey estimated that the summit of Snowdon was at an elevation of 3,720 feet (1,130 m); in 1773, Thomas Pennant quoted a later estimate of 3,568 ft (1,088 m) above sea level at Caernarfon. It was long believed to be the tallest mountain on the island of Great Britain until measurements taken in the eighteenth century confirmed that Ben Nevis and several other Scottish peaks were taller.[13] Recent surveys give the height of the summit as 1,085 m (3,560 ft), making Snowdon the highest mountain in Wales, and the highest point in the British Isles outside Scotland.[14]

The rocks which today make up Snowdon and its neighbouring mountains were formed in the

ash flows of rhyolitic tuff, which formed deposits up to 500 metres (1,600 ft) thick.[16] The current summit is near the northern edge of the ancient caldera; the caldera's full extent is unclear, but it extended as far as the summit of Moel Hebog in the south-west.[17]

Snowdon and its surrounding peaks have been described as "true examples of

Crib y Ddysgl and Y Lliwedd, and the pyramidal peak of Snowdon itself.[20] Other glacial landforms that can be seen around Snowdon include roches moutonnées, glacial erratics and moraines.[21]

Climate

In winter, Snowdon often has a covering of snow (giving rise to its English name).

precipitation.[24]

Flora and fauna

Gagea serotina (the "Snowdon lily") grows on the cliffs of Snowdon

The environment of Snowdon, particularly its rare plants, has led to the designation of much of the eastern part of the massif as a

Snowdonia National Park,[28] which has also provided some legal protection since the park's establishment in 1951.[29]

pine martens have not been seen for many years.[31] Birds that can be seen include the raven, red-billed chough, peregrine, osprey, merlin, red kite and moorland birds.[32]

Lakes

Llyn Llydaw, the largest and deepest lake on Snowdon's flanks, is crossed by a causeway at its eastern end

A number of lakes are found in the various cwms of the Snowdon range:

  • hydroelectric power station, which opened in 1906.[33] The lake is crossed by a causeway, built in 1853 and raised in the 20th century to prevent the causeway from flooding frequently.[34]
  • Glaslyn – 1,970 feet (600 m) high, 18 acres (7.3 ha) – lies higher up Cwm Dyli than Llyn Llydaw.[35] It was originally called Llyn y Ffynnon Glas, and has a depth of 127 feet (39 m).[35] For a long time, it was believed to be bottomless, and is also the location for various myths.[35]
  • Llyn Ffynnon-y-gwas – 1,430 feet (440 m) high, 10 acres (4.0 ha) – lies in Cwm Treweunydd, Snowdon's north-western cwm, and is passed by the Snowdon Ranger path.[36] It was enlarged by damming for use as a reservoir for use by slate quarries, but the level has since been lowered, and the lake's volume reduced to 24,000 cubic metres (850,000 cu ft).[36]

Other lakes include: Llyn Du'r Arddu below Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, at a height of 1,901 feet (579 m), 5 acres (2.0 ha); Llyn Teyrn near Pen-y-pass, at a height of 1,237 feet (377 m), 5 acres (2.0 ha); and several smaller pools.[37]

Leisure activities

Snowdon has been described as "the busiest mountain in Britain",[38] with some 590,984 people having walked up the mountain in 2019.[4] There are six main walking paths, which can be combined in various ways.[39] In addition, the circular walk starting and ending at Pen-y-Pass and using the Crib Goch route and the route over Y Lliwedd, both of which involve scrambling, is called the Snowdon Horseshoe, and is considered "one of the finest ridge walks in Britain".[40] The routes are arranged here anticlockwise, starting with the path leading from Llanberis. In winter conditions, all these routes become significantly more dangerous and the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team state that "additional skills, equipment and knowledge are required".[41] Many inexperienced walkers have been killed over the years attempting to climb the mountain via the main paths.[42]

Snowdon offers some of the most extensive views in the British Isles; on exceptionally clear days,

Merrick (southern Scotland) is the longest theoretical line of sight in the British Isles at 144 miles (232 kilometres).[43] In practice, atmospheric conditions make such sightings extremely rare, but a report from 2015 demonstrates the observation.[44] The mountain itself may also be viewed on takeoff and approach to both Manchester Airport and Liverpool John Lennon Airport on very clear days, and even from Howth Head in Dublin, Ireland.[45]

Part of the queue for the summit pillar in August 2020

On 26 June 2018, Sam Laming became the first ever Wingsuit pilot to perform a 'Proximity Flight' over a UK mountain, by flying approximately 30 metres over Snowdon's summit, after jumping from a helicopter with fellow wingsuit camera pilot, Mike Hitchcock.[46]

In 2021, John Harold, the director of the Snowdonia Society, reported that the number of visitors ascending Snowdon was exceeding capacity. At popular times walkers queue for upwards of 45 minutes for an opportunity to take a photo at the summit pillar.[47]

Rock climbing

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
A rock climbing site

The Snowdon Massif includes a number of cliffs, and holds an important place in the history of rock climbing in the United Kingdom. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu is often colloquially known as 'Cloggy' among climbers, and was the site of the first recorded climb in Britain, in 1798.[8] It was carried out by Peter Bailey Williams and William Bingley, while searching for rare plants.[8] It is now considered to be one of the best cliffs in Britain for rock climbing.[48]

Y Lliwedd was also explored by early climbers, and was the subject of a 1909 climbing guide, The Climbs on Lliwedd by J. M. A. Thompson and A. W. Andrews, one of the first in Britain.[8] Snowdon was used by Edmund Hillary and his group during preparations for their successful 1953 expedition to climb Mount Everest.[8]

Paths

Sketch map of the Snowdon Massif
Legend
· grey: ridges
· red lines: paths
· orange lines: roads
· dotted grey line: Snowdon Mountain Railway

The first recorded ascent of Snowdon was by the botanist Thomas Johnson in 1639.[8] However, the 18th-century Welsh historian Thomas Pennant mentions a "triumphal fair upon this our chief of mountains" following Edward I's conquest of Wales in 1284, which could indicate the possibility of earlier ascents.[49]

The six main paths were mapped by the Google Trekker in 2015.[50] The elevations and gradients given here are for the start point on a public road, based on Ordnance Survey mapping. Other definitions are possible so alternative figures can be found (e.g.[51][52]).

A graph showing the profiles of the six main walking routes up Snowdon plus the two halves of the Snowdon Horseshoe
Profiles of the main routes up Snowdon

Llanberis Path

Length: 6.8 km (4.2 mi). Elevation gain: 965 m (3,166 ft). Overall gradient: 1 in 7.1 (14.1%).

The Llanberis Path is the longest route to the summit. It follows close to the line of the railway, and being the easiest ascent,[14] it is the route used by the annual Snowdon Race,[53] which has a record time of less than 40 minutes recorded from the start to the summit.[54]

The section of the Llanberis Path above Clogwyn station has long been called the "Killer Convex"; in icy conditions, this convex slope can send unwary walkers over the cliffs of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. Four people died there in February 2009.[55][56]

Snowdon Ranger Path

The Snowdon Ranger Path crosses a boggy area before ascending past Llyn Ffynnon-y-gwas

Length: 6.3 km (3.9 mi). Elevation gain: 935 m (3,068 ft). Overall gradient: 1 in 6.7 (14.9%).

The Snowdon Ranger Path (

A4085 and Snowdon Ranger railway station. This was formerly the Saracen's Head Inn, but was renamed under the ownership of the mountain guide John Morton.[13] It is thought to be the oldest path to the summit.[14]

The route begins with zigzags through turf,[34] before reaching a flatter boggy area in front of Llyn Ffynnon-y-gwas. The path then climbs to Bwlch Cwm Brwynog, and then snakes along the ridge above Clogwyn Du'r Arddu towards the summit. This path meets the railway, the Llanberis Path, the Crib Goch path, and the combined Pyg Track and Miners' Track all within a short distance, just below the summit.[34]

Rhyd Ddu path

Length: 5.8 km (3.6 mi). Elevation gain: 905 m (2,969 ft) or 896 m (2,940 ft) [34][51] depending on exact start point. Overall gradient: 1 in 6.4 (15.7%).

The Rhyd Ddu path, formerly called the Beddgelert Path, leads from the village of

A4085 road.[48]

Watkin Path

Plas Cwmllan (right) and Gladstone Rock (left) in Cwm Llan, looking along the Watkin Path

Length: 6.2 km (3.9 mi). Elevation gain: 1,025 m (3,363 ft). Overall gradient: 1 in 6.1 (16.5%).

The Watkin Path is "the most demanding route direct to the summit of Snowdon",

summer home in Nant Gwynant near the start of the path.[14] It was originally designed as a donkey track and opened in 1892.[34]

The start of the Watkin Path has been described as "the prettiest beginning" of the routes up Snowdon.[34] It begins at Bethania on the A498 and climbs initially through old broadleaved woodland.[34] After leaving the woods, the path climbs past the waterfalls of the Afon Llan to the glacial cirque of Cwm Llan, crossing a disused incline from an abandoned slate quarry.[25] It then reaches Plas Cwmllan, formerly the home of the quarry manager for the South Snowdon Slate Works beyond, and later used for target practice by commandos during the Second World War.[25] Near Plas Cwmllan is the large boulder known as Gladstone Rock, which bears a plaque commemorating a speech given in 1892 by William Ewart Gladstone, the then 82-year-old Prime Minister, on the subject of Justice for Wales.[34] The slate workings in Cwm Llan were opened in 1840, but closed in 1882 due to the expense of transporting the slate to the sea at Porthmadog. Various buildings, including barracks and dressing sheds, remain.[25]

From the slate quarries, the Watkin Path veers to the north-east to reach Bwlch Ciliau, the col between Snowdon and Y Lliwedd, which is marked by a large orange-brown cairn.[34] From here, it heads west to meet the Rhyd Ddu Path at a standing stone shortly below the summit of Snowdon.[25]

Over Y Lliwedd

Y Lliwedd In early spring

Length: 6.4 km (4.0 mi).

The route over Y Lliwedd is more frequently used for descent than ascent, and forms the second half of the Snowdon Horseshoe walk, the ascent being over Crib Goch. It is reached from the summit by following the Watkin Path down to Bwlch y Saethau, and then continuing along the ridge to the twin summits of Y Lliwedd.[40] The path then drops down to Cwm Dyli to join the Miners' Track towards Pen-y-Pass.

Miners' Track

The Pyg Track (above) and Miners Track (below) merge above Glaslyn. Crib Goch is visible at the top

Length: 6.6 km (4.1 mi). Elevation gain: 726 m (2,382 ft). Overall gradient: 1 in 9.1 (10.9%).

The Miners' Track (Welsh: Llwybr y Mwynwyr) begins at the car park at Pen-y-Pass, at an elevation of around 360 m (1,180 ft), and has the shallowest overall gradient.[8] It begins by skirting Llyn Teyrn before climbing slightly to cross the causeway over Llyn Llydaw.[8] It follows the lake's shoreline before climbing to Glaslyn, from where it ascends steeply towards Bwlch Glas. It is joined for most of this zigzag ascent by the Pyg Track, and on reaching the summit ridge, is united with the Llanberis Path and Snowdon Ranger Path.[8] Derelict mine buildings are encountered along several parts of the path.[8]

Pyg Track

Pyg Track Snowdon
Standing stone marking the start of the Pyg Track at Pen-y-Pass

Length: 5.3 km (3.3 mi). Elevation gain: 726 m (2,382 ft). Overall gradient: 1 in 7.3 (13.7%).

The "Pyg Track" (Welsh: Llwybr Pyg), or "Pig Track" (both spellings may be encountered), also leads from Pen-y-Pass.[34] The track climbs over Bwlch y Moch on the eastern flanks of Crib Goch, before traversing that ridge's lower slopes.[8] Above Glaslyn, it is joined by the Miners' Track for the zigzag climb to Bwlch Glas between Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain, where it joins the combined Llanberis and Snowdon Ranger paths.[8]

From the website of the

Snowdonia National Park Authority
,

Nobody knows for certain why this path is called the Pyg Track. It's possible that it was named after the pass it leads through, Bwlch y Moch (translated Pigs' Pass) as the path is sometimes spelled 'Pig Track'. Or, maybe because it was used to carry 'pyg' (black tar) to the copper mines on Snowdon. Another possible explanation is that the path was named after the nearby Pen y Gwryd Hotel, popular amongst the early mountain walkers.

— Snowdonia National Park Authority[57]

Crib Goch

Length: 5.0 km (3.1 mi).

The traverse of Crib Goch has been described as "one of the finest ridge walks in Britain",[40] and forms part of the Snowdon Horseshoe, a circuit of the peaks surrounding Cwm Dyli.[8] The path follows the Pyg Track before separating off from it at Bwlch y Moch and leading up the East ridge of Crib Goch. After the Crib Goch ridge, it descends slightly to Bwlch Coch, then ascends to the peak of Garnedd Ugain (1,065 m or 3,494 ft), before dropping to join the Llanberis path. All routes which tackle Crib Goch are considered mountaineering routes or scrambles.[58]

Snowdon Mountain Railway

Approaching the Summit railway station
Main article: Snowdon Mountain Railway

The

narrow gauge rack and pinion mountain railway that travels for 4+3⁄4 miles (7.6 km) from Llanberis to the Summit station of Snowdon.[59] It is the only public rack and pinion railway in the United Kingdom,[59][60] and after more than 100 years of operation it remains a popular tourist attraction, carrying more than 130,000 passengers annually.[61] Single carriage trains are pushed up the mountain by either steam locomotives or diesel locomotives. It has also previously used diesel railcars as multiple units. The railway was constructed between December 1894, when the first sod was cut by Enid Assheton-Smith (after whom locomotive No.2 was named), and February 1896, at a total cost of £63,800 (equivalent to £7,854,000 as of 2021).[62]

Summit

Hafod Eryri
Arup
Main contractorCarillion
Awards and prizesRIBA Welsh Architecture Award 2010
Website
Hafod Eryri Visitor Centre

The first building to be erected at the Snowdon summit was in 1838 to sell refreshments, and a licence to sell intoxicating liquor was granted in 1845.[8] Very basic accommodation was also provided for visitors.[63] When the Snowdon Mountain Railway was opened in 1896, the company strove to get an alcohol licence for its own proposed new hotel, but being unable to, took over both summit huts by 1898.[63]

During the 1930s, many complaints were received about the state of the facilities at the summit and in 1934/5 a new station building was erected in two phases; the upstairs accommodation was completed in 1937. It was designed by Sir

Prince Charles as "the highest slum in Wales".[64] Its state led to a campaign to replace the building. In April 2006, Snowdonia National Park Authority, with the support of the Snowdonia Society, agreed a deal to start work on a new cafe and visitor centre complex.[65]
By mid-October 2006 the old building had been largely demolished.

The new

Arup and built by Carillion, was officially opened on 12 June 2009[67] by First Minister Rhodri Morgan.[68] The Welsh National Poet, Gwyn Thomas, composed a new couplet for the new building, displayed at its entrance and on the windows, which reads "Copa'r Wyddfa: yr ydych chwi, yma, Yn nes at y nefoedd / The summit of Snowdon: You are, here, nearer to Heaven".[69] The name Hafod Eryri was chosen from several hundred put forward after a competition was held by the BBC.[70][71] Hafod is Welsh for an upland summer residence, while Eryri is the Welsh name for Snowdonia.[8]

The summit pillar was built in 2001, the brass toposcope carrying the date 2000. This plate details exactly 100 locations - mostly other peaks - which can be seen, given ideal visibility. Of the locations mentioned, Mount Leinster (in the Blackstairs Mountains in Ireland) is the furthest, at 188 miles away, with the Wicklow Mountains (also in Ireland) being 100 miles away. Slieve Donard, in Northern Ireland, is 108 miles away. The Lake District is 100 miles away, Penmaen Dewi (St David's Head in Pembrokeshire) is 96 miles away, Kinder Scout (in the Peak District) is 94 miles away, and the Isle of Man is 84 miles away.

Originally Snowdon and its summit were owned by three agricultural estates, Vaynol, Hafod y Llan and the Baron Hill Estate. Today the Vaynol land at the summit is owned by the Snowdonia National Park Authority, Hafod y Llan by the National Trust and the Baron Hill Estate retains its holding.[72] The Baron Hill Estate land consists of the farm of Gwastadannas, which includes the Snowdon Horseshoe, Glaslyn, Llyn Llydaw and the northern end of Nant Gwynant.

Welsh literature

In Arthurian legend, Bedivere threw Excalibur into a lake identified by some as Glaslyn on the slopes of Snowdon.

In

Afallon. Arthur's men then retreated to a cave on the slopes of Y Lliwedd, where they are said to sleep until such time as they are needed.[35][40] Merlin is supposed to have hidden the golden throne of Britain among the cliffs north of Crib y Ddysgl when the Saxons invaded.[74]
Glaslyn was also the final resting place of a water monster, known as an
magical powers. Like several other sites in Wales, it is said that if two people spend the night there, one will become a great poet while the other will become insane.[75] Llyn Coch in Cwm Clogwyn has been associated with the Tylwyth Teg (fairies), including a version of the fairy bride legend.[76]

In popular culture

In 1968, scenes representing the

Carry On... Up the Khyber on the lower part of the Watkin Path.[77] In 2005, Angela Douglas, one of the stars of the film, unveiled a plaque at the precise location where filming took place to commemorate the location filming. It now forms part of the North Wales Film and Television Trail run by the Wales Screen Commission.[78]

In art

Injuries and deaths

In January and February 2009 on Snowdon there were 4 people who died and 3 of these four deaths were related to people falling.[79] In 2021 there were 4 people who died on Snowdon.[80]

In 2021 two people were injured and taken to hospital after being struck by lightning on top of Snowdon.[81]

Use of Yr Wyddfa in English

In April 2021 a motion was put forward by

Senedd the previous year after it was found to be the responsibility of the park itself, rather than the Welsh Government.[82]

In May 2021, following the dismissal of the motion, YouGov conducted a poll on Snowdon's name. 60% of Welsh adults supported the English name Snowdon, compared to 30% wanting the Welsh name Yr Wyddfa. Separating by language, 59% of Welsh speakers preferred the Welsh name, while 37% wanted Snowdon to not be scrapped entirely. 69% of non-Welsh speakers firmly supported Snowdon as the mountain's name.[83]

In November 2022, Snowdonia National Park Authority voted to use Yr Wyddfa and Eryri (rather than Snowdon and Snowdonia) in its usage,[84] though in statutory documents both Welsh and English will still be required by law.[85]

It has been argued that Mount Snowdon strictly refers to a smaller mountain in

British Columbia, Canada, with the Welsh mountain simply being "Snowdon".[86] However, the Welsh mountain has been referred to in some uses as "Mount Snowdon" or "Mt Snowdon".[87][88]

See also

Notes

  1. ^ The last 1:25,000 O.S. map to be published in imperial measurements (i.e. showing contours and heights in feet) was issued in 1982, and showed Snowdon's height as 3,559 ft. The following edition, revised in 1983 and published in 1984, was metric and showed Snowdon's height as 1,085m

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  3. ^ "Walking in Snowdonia | The Snowdon Range". walk-snowdonia.co.uk. Retrieved 5 February 2024.
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  5. ^ "Plan your visit - Times & Prices - How to Find Us - FAQs". Snowdon Mountain Railway.
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Bibliography

External links

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