Somerset House
Somerset House | |
---|---|
General information | |
Architectural style | Neoclassical |
Location | Strand London, WC2 |
Country | United Kingdom |
Current tenants | Multiple |
Construction started | 1776 |
Cost | £462,323 (1801)[1] |
Landlord | Somerset House Trust |
Design and construction | |
Architect(s) | Sir William Chambers |
Designations | Grade I listed building |
Other information | |
Public transit access | Temple |
Website | |
www |
Somerset House is a large Neoclassical complex situated on the south side of the Strand in central London, overlooking the River Thames, just east of Waterloo Bridge. The Georgian era quadrangle was built on the site of a Tudor palace ("Old Somerset House") originally belonging to the Duke of Somerset. The present Somerset House was designed by Sir William Chambers, begun in 1776, and was further extended with Victorian era outer wings to the east and west in 1831 and 1856 respectively.[2][3] The site of Somerset House stood directly on the River Thames until the Victoria Embankment parkway was built in the late 1860s.[4]
The great Georgian era structure was built to be a grand public building housing various government and public-benefit society offices. Its present tenants are a mixture of various organisations, generally centred around the arts and education.
Old Somerset House
16th century
In the 16th century, the
Before it was finished, however, the Duke of Somerset was overthrown,
17th and 18th centuries
On 18 August
During the 17th century, the house was used as a residence by royal consorts. In the reign of
The refurbished palace was the setting for elaborate entertainments at the wedding of Anne's lady in waiting Jean Drummond on 3 February 1614, including a masque Hymen's Triumph written by Samuel Daniel.[16] On 22 May 1614, Christian IV of Denmark paid a surprise visit to his sister.[17] In 1619, King James granted the palace to Prince Charles. Frances Coke, Viscountess Purbeck was appointed keeper of Denmark House, and Mary Villiers, Countess of Buckingham frequently stayed there.[18]
After the death of King James in April 1625, his body was brought from Theobalds to lie in state at Denmark House. The state rooms were hung with black cloth. At this period there was no chapel at Denmark House, and so the Great hall was adapted, and the body moved there before the funeral at Westminster Abbey.[19]
Between 1630 and 1635 Inigo Jones built a chapel where
Royal occupation of Somerset House was interrupted by the
Two years later, with the
Somerset House was refurbished by
Somerset House (Sir William Chambers, 1776)
Since the middle of the 18th century there had been growing criticism that London had no great public buildings. Government departments and the learned societies were huddled away in small old buildings all over the city. Developing national pride found comparison with the capitals of continental Europe disquieting.
Somerset House was still technically a royal palace and therefore
Initially a certain William Robinson, Secretary to the
Design
Chambers' own influences stemmed from
Construction
The North Wing, fronting the Strand, was the first part of the complex to be built; its design was based on Inigo Jones's drawings for the riverfront of the former palace. By 1780 the North Wing was finished and occupied, and Chambers reported to Parliament that the rest of the quadrangle was complete up to a height of two storeys.[35] Construction of the riverside wing followed; it was finished in 1786. At the time of construction, the Thames was not embanked and the river lapped the South Wing, where a great arch allowed boats and barges to penetrate to landing places within the building.[36] Meanwhile, work continued on the East and West Wings, which began to be occupied from 1788;[37] by 1790 the main quadrangle was complete.[35]
It was originally envisaged that the main quadrangle would be flanked by two terraces of houses, one to the east and one to the west, providing accommodation for several of the Commissioners whose offices were based there.[38] It is not certain at what pace the rest of the construction progressed, but it is clear that the outbreak of war with France in 1793 caused delays through lack of money. Chambers died in 1796, whereupon James Wyatt took over as architect. In the end, only the western terrace was built and by 1801 the building was deemed to be complete, at a cost of £462,323.[37]
In 1815
Ornamentation
In addition to applying a rich scheme of architectural decoration, Chambers enhanced the exterior of Somerset House with a multiplicity of sculptures and other visual embellishments.
Inside, most of the offices were plain and business-like, but in the North Wing the formal rooms and public spaces of the learned societies were enriched with painted ceilings (by Cipriani, Benjamin West, Angelica Kauffman, J. F. Rigaud, Charles Catton and Joshua Reynolds), ornamental plasterwork (by Thomas Collins and Thomas Clerk) and casts of classical sculptures.[34] John Papworth did the plasterwork in the great Royal Academy Room;[39] many of the ceiling paintings were removed by the Royal Academy when they vacated their premises.[40]
Accommodation
A key reason for rebuilding Somerset House was to provide accommodation for a diverse variety of
A home for arts and learning
The North Wing of Somerset House was initially fitted out to house the
The
The annual Royal Academy Exhibition was held in Somerset House from 1780 onwards,[44] until the academy moved out in 1837 (initially to rooms in the new National Gallery, then to Burlington House, Piccadilly). Its former accommodation was given over to a newly established Government School of Design (which was much later to become the Royal College of Art); it remained in the complex from 1837 until, in 1853, the Registry of Births, Marriages and Deaths needed to expand its office space and the School relocated to Marlborough House.[45]
In 1857, the Royal Society moved out of Somerset House, followed in 1874 by the Society of Antiquaries, the
In 1789 the
In 1832 the Navy Board and its subsidiaries were abolished and their departments placed under the direct oversight of the
Taxes, stamps and the Inland Revenue
From the beginning of the new Somerset House there was a fiscal presence in the shape of the
The Inland Revenue was created by a merger of the Stamp and Taxes Office and the Excise Office in 1849; in 1854 the Excise Office staff were moved from their old headquarters in the City of London into the newly built New Wing.[50]
Somerset House continued in use by the Inland Revenue throughout the 20th century. In 2005, the
Somerset House Laboratory
In 1842, the Excise Office had established a laboratory within its
Phillips retired as principal chemist in 1874. James Bell was then the principal chemist of Somerset House Laboratory until his retirement in 1894.
Registry of Births, Marriages and Deaths
In 1837, following the establishment of
From 1859 until 1998, the Principal Registry of the
Other public offices
In addition to the learned societies, the ground floor rooms of the North Wing housed the Hawkers and Pedlars Office (on the west side) and the
One of the first occupants of the building had been the
The office of Lord Treasurer's Remembrancer ceased to exist in 1833 and the Pipe Office was abolished in 1834; however space in Somerset House continued to be at a premium: in 1854 an Act of Parliament was passed (the Duchy of Cornwall Office Act 1854) noting that the Duchy's rooms in Somerset House were now needed "for the use of the Commissioners of Inland Revenue, whose present office is insufficient for the Business thereof, and adjoins the said Office of the Duchy of Cornwall". The Act provided for the Duchy Office to move to new, purpose-built premises in Pimlico: now known as 10 Buckingham Gate, the building still serves as head office for the Duchy.[64]
From 1785 the Commissioners for Auditing Public Accounts were also housed in the East Wing,[32] as was the Duchy of Lancaster Office (having moved there from accommodation in Gray's Inn) until it moved in 1823 to new offices across the road in Lancaster Place.[65] The Surveyor of Crown Lands also had his office here until the early 19th century. The Salt Office initially occupied rooms in the West Wing, alongside the naval offices, but it was abolished in 1798 (administration of the salt tax having been transferred to the Board of Excise).[57]
During the 19th century the North Wing contained, in addition, the offices of the
19th-century expansion
Magnificent as the new building was, it was something short of what Chambers had intended, for he had planned for an additional terrace of houses to the east, as well as to the west of the quadrangle; work had stopped short, however, cost being the inhibiting factor. Eventually King's College London was erected to the east (the government granting the land on condition that the design conformed to Chambers' original design) by subscription between 1829 and 1834;[68] the architect was Sir Robert Smirke.[32] At the same time, as part of Smirke's scheme, the eastern third of the river frontage was completed, following Chambers's original design.[34]
Then, increasing demand for space led to another and last step. The western edge of the site was occupied by a row of houses used as dwellings for
In 1891 a headquarters building was constructed in the West Court (between the West Wing and the New Wing) for the Civil Service Rifles, a Rifle Volunteer Corps.[70]
20th-century modifications
By the start of the First World War the Civil Service Rifles, by then renamed the 15th (Prince of Wales' Own Civil Service Rifles) Battalion, The London Regiment,[71][72] had its own Morris tube firing range (where the calibre of the rifle is reduced for indoor operation by a use of a tube) fitted with vanishing and running targets at Somerset House.[73]
Somerset House had its share of trials and tribulations during the
Still more windows were shattered and balustrades toppled, but the worst was over by the end of May 1941. It was not until the 1950s that this damage to the South Wing was repaired. The work required skilled masons, whose services were hard to come by in the early post-war years. Sir Albert Richardson was appointed architect for the reconstruction. He skillfully recreated the Nelson Room and rebuilt the Nelson Stair. The work was completed in 1952 at a cost of (then) £84,000.[74]
In 1984 the Somerset House Act was passed, legislating the way for Somerset House to be redeveloped as a centre for the arts. In 1997 the Somerset House Trust was established as a registered charity[75] to maintain the building and develop it as a centre for arts and culture.[51]
In the late 20th century the building began to be reinvigorated as a centre for the visual arts. The first institution to move in (in 1989) was the
21st-century redevelopment
The main courtyard, which had been used as a Civil Service car park, and the main terrace overlooking the Thames were refurbished and opened to the public, these alterations being overseen by the conservation architects
In stages from 2009 to 2013, HM Revenue and Customs withdrew from the other parts of the building; since March 2013 the Somerset House Trust has had oversight of the entire complex. Its management policy has been to rent out the upper floors at a commercial rate to "creative businesses", while devoting the ground floor to "public realm" activities. The trust receives no public subsidy and relies on income from rent and private hire to fund the upkeep of the estate and relies on ticket sales, merchandising and sponsorship to fund its artistic and cultural programme.[51]
In the winter the central courtyard is home to a popular open-air ice rink, as seen during the opening credits of the 2003 Christmas-themed film Love Actually.[79] At other times, 55 vertical jets of water rise to random heights from an array of fountains.[80]
The courtyard is also used as a concert venue.[81] In July each year the "Summer series" of music events takes place, which has included performances from artists such as Lily Allen.[82]
Somerset House now has more than a hundred tenants, comprising a large and diverse collection of creative organisations and artists including
Filming location
Somerset House is a popular filming location, with its exterior featuring in several big-budget Hollywood films. These include two James Bond films, GoldenEye (1995) and Tomorrow Never Dies (1997),[85][86] and several scenes of the 2003 film Shanghai Knights, starring Jackie Chan and Owen Wilson, were filmed in the courtyard of Somerset House.[87][88] The courtyard was also used in the 1991 comedy King Ralph.[89] Elements of the 2008 film The Duchess, starring Keira Knightley and Ralph Fiennes, were filmed in October 2007.[90] Somerset House was also used as a filming location in several Sherlock Holmes films, including 1970's The Private Life of Sherlock Holmes and, more recently, Sherlock Holmes (2009), starring Jude Law and Robert Downey Jr., directed by Guy Ritchie.[91][92] Somerset House was used as the external filming location for Olivia Newton-John's Stranger's Touch video, which featured as part of her Olivia Physical video album in 1981.[93]
Exterior shots of Somerset House were used in the 1999
Somerset House was also the main location for the
Gallery
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Somerset House in 1817, showing how the Thames originally flowed directly past the building, before the construction of the Victoria Embankment
-
The Strand façade of Chambers' Somerset House and the church ofSt Mary-le-Strand, shown in a view of 1836
-
Courtyard view of the South and West wings in 1864.
-
The riverfront of Somerset House today, seen from the Victoria Embankment.
-
The Strand façade today.
-
Courtyard view of the East and South wings today.
References
Notes
- ^ "Since the 18th century". Somerset House Trust. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ Humphreys (2003), pp. 165–166
- ^ Somerset House Trust (2010), Annual Report (PDF), Somerset House Trust, p. 3, archived from the original (PDF) on 29 June 2012, retrieved 27 February 2013
- ^ Thornbury, Walter. "The Victoria Embankment". British History Online. Retrieved 15 February 2015.
- ^ a b c Thurley et al. (2009), p. 9.
- ^ Pollard, Albert Frederick (1897). Lee, Sidney (ed.). Dictionary of National Biography. Vol. 51. London: Smith, Elder & Co. p. 301. . In
- ^ a b c Thurley et al (2009), p. 11.
- ^ Scard, Margaret (2017). "Who decided Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, should be executed?". History Extra. BBC. Retrieved 5 March 2018.
- ISBN 978-1548852658.
- ^ "The Somerset House Conference, 19 August 1604". National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. Retrieved 28 June 2020.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 13.
- ^ a b c Thurley et al (2009), p. 16.
- ^ Howard Colvin, History of the King's Works, vol. 4 (London, 1982), p. 255: Mary Anne Everett Green, Calendar State Papers Domestic, James I: 1603–1610 (London, 1857), p. 508 citing TNA SP14/45 f.6, 1 May 1609.
- ^ Jemma Field, Anna of Fenmark: Material Culture of the Stuart Courts (Manchester, 2020), pp. 56–60.
- ^ Historic England. "Early cistern to Old Somerset House, Historic England listing (1237102)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 1 April 2021.
- ^ Leeds Barroll, Anna of Denmark, Queen of England: A Cultural Biography (Philadelphia, 2001), pp. 140–2.
- ^ Original Letters Relating To The Ecclessiastical Affairs of Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh: Bannatyne Club, 1851), pp. 355–6.
- ^ Thomas Birch & Folkestone Williams, Court and Times of James the First, 2 (London: Colburn, 1849), p. 183.
- ^ John Nichols, Progresses of James the First, vol. 4 (London, 1828), pp. 1038–40.
- ^ "The Secret Gravestones Beneath Somerset House". Londonist. 26 March 2010. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ Jardine, Lisa (2008). Going Dutch. Harper Collins. p. 115.
- ISBN 978-1906509217.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 31.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 25.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 48.
- ^ a b c d e Thurley et al (2009), p. 63.
- ^ public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Bedloe, William". Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 3 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. This article incorporates text from a publication now in the
- ^ Crown Lands Act 1775
- ^ Dictionary of British Sculptors 1660–1851 by Rupert Gunnisp.129
- 15 Geo. 3. c. 33: An Act for settling Buckingham House, with the Appurtenances, upon the Queen, in case she should survive His Majesty, in lieu of His Majesty's Palace of Somerset House.
- ^ "House of Lords Journal Volume 34: May 1775, 21–31". Journal of the House of Lords Volume 34, 1774–1776 (London, 1767–1830). British History Online. pp. 464–482. Retrieved 16 July 2019.
- ^ ISBN 978-1-9996154-1-3.
- ISBN 1-55849-201-1.
- ^ ISBN 9781870248600.
- ^ E. P. Dutton & Co.Retrieved 26 June 2019.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 68.
- ^ a b c d "History". Somerset House. 24 September 2016. Retrieved 20 March 2018.
- ^ Brewer, James Norris (1821). A Descriptive and Historical Account of Various Palaces and Public Buildings. London: William Gilling.
- ISBN 978-1-317-74168-8.
- ^ "Design, 1778–80, Angelica Kauffman RA (1741–1807)". Royal Academy. Retrieved 28 June 2019.
- ^ "The Strand Block of Somerset House, 1780–1836: Part II". History Today. Retrieved 21 March 2018.
- ^ "History". The Geological Society. Retrieved 21 March 2018.
- ^ "A brief history of the RAS". Royal Astronomical Society. Retrieved 21 March 2018.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 75.
- ^ "Government School of Design (London)". Mapping Sculpture. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "Somerset House looking East". Royal Museums Greenwich. Retrieved 21 March 2018.
- ^ Coad, Jonathan (2013). Support for the Fleet. English Heritage.
- ^ "Information panel".
- ^ "The Income Tax". Hansard. 21 March 1842. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ Smith, Graham (1980). Something to Declare: 1000 years of Customs & Excise. London: Harrap & Co.
- ^ a b c "Annual Report and Accounts 2014–15". Somerset House Trust. Archived from the original on 29 March 2018. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
- ^ "Laboratory of the Government Chemist". Grace's Guide to British Industrial History. Retrieved 20 March 2018.
- doi:10.1038/077539a0.
- ^ "Thomas Edward Thorpe". Grace's Guide. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "St. Catherine's House". Vital Certificates. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "Somerset House: Court of Probate. Elevation of New Principal Registry". National Archives. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
- ^ a b Urban, Sylvanus (1807). "Somerset House". The Gentleman's Magazine and Historical Chronicle. 77: 545.
- ^ "Vehicle registration and licensing records" (PDF). London Metropolitan Archives. Corporation of London. Archived from the original (PDF) on 1 April 2016. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "Pedlars Act 1697" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 April 2018. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "Lottery Office records". National Archives. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "Records of the Keeper of the Privy Seal". National Archives. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "London: Somerset House, Lords Commissioners of the Treasury: designs for alterations to offices, 1795". Sir John Soane's Museum Collection online. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ Cooper, C.P., ed. (1837). Evidence ... before the Select Committee of the House of Commons, appointed 'to inquire into the management of the Record Commission and the present state of the records of the United Kingdom'. London: House of Commons. p. 205.
- ^ "Office of the Duchy of Cornwall, Buckingham Gate, Pimlico, London" (architectural drawing), RIBA.
- ^ "Records of the Duchy of Lancaster". National Archives. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
- ^ "Records of the Poor Law Commission, Poor Law Board and Poor Law Department of the Local Government Board". National Archives. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
- ^ "Somerset House. Tithe Commission Office. Plans & Elevation Of the Proposed Additions". National Archives. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
- ^ "Westminster City Council resolves to grant planning permission for Strand redevelopment". 23 April 2015. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "New Wing". Somerset House. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "Somerset House: West Court – Civil Service Volunteers Building". National Archives. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
- ^ "15th (Prince of Wales' Own Civil Service Rifles) Battalion, The London Regiment". Wartime memories. Archived from the original on 15 July 2018. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "City of Westminster". Stepping Forward. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "The Anatomy of a Drill Hall". The Drill Hall Project. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ a b "Plan for the Reconstruction of the South Wing of Somerset House, London". Stephen Onping Fine Art. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ "SOMERSET HOUSE TRUST, registered charity no. 1063640". Charity Commission for England and Wales.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 85.
- ^ "Hermitage Rooms at Somerset House". Cultural Innovations. 2009. Archived from the original on 20 June 2013. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ "Somerset House". Time Out London. 10 July 2018. Archived from the original on 17 February 2013. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ "The Big Skate: outdoor ice rinks in London". BBC. 25 November 2009. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ Humphreys (2003), p. 166.
- ^ Somerset House – Music Archived 19 June 2008 at the Wayback Machine.
- ^ Thurley et al (2009), p. 123.
- ^ "Residents". Somerset House. 29 August 2016. Retrieved 24 November 2017.
- ^ "Restoration of a Grade I listed Building" (PDF). WRAP. Retrieved 27 February 2013.
- ^ "Goldeneye (1995): Wade's car breaks down". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Tomorrow Never Dies (1997)". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Shanghai Knights (2003): Driving off with Charlie in tow". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Shanghai Knights (2003): Final goodbyes". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Where was King Ralph filmed?". British Film Locations. Archived from the original on 24 April 2021. Retrieved 31 October 2017.
- ^ "Duchess, The (2008): Devonshire House exterior". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Private Life Of Sherlock Holmes, The (1970): Diogenes Club exterior". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Sherlock Holmes (2009): Pentonville prison – Blackwood's cell". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ Grant, Brian (8 February 1982), Olivia Newton-John: Physical (Music), Olivia Newton-John, Matt Lattanzi, John Achorn, Millaney Grant Production, Olivia Newton-John (ONJ), retrieved 30 October 2023
- ^ "Sleepy Hollow (1999): New York street scenes". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Flyboys (2006): French street scenes". British-Film-Locations.com. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ Steven Baker (23 September 2012). "'Jab Tak Hai Jaan' London film locations revealed". Digital Spy. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
- ^ "Dustin Hoffman and Emma Thompson filming on South Bank". London SE1. 21 May 2008. Retrieved 14 July 2018.
- ^ Tam, Johnny (8 March 2015). "Gerard Butler spotted speeding down Strand in filming of action thriller". Roar News. Retrieved 31 March 2015.
- ^ "The Eagle Has Landed". Reel Streets. Retrieved 14 February 2020.
- ^ "The Real Diagon Alley – Harry Potter". www.the-magician.co.uk. Retrieved 4 May 2022.
- ^ "Somerset House, The Portico Room". Pole Structural Engineers. Archived from the original on 10 May 2015. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
Bibliography
- Borer, Mary Cathcart The City of London: A History. New York: McKay, 1977 (pp 156)
- Humphreys, Rob (2003). The Rough Guide to London (5 ed.). Rough Guides Ltd. pp. 165–6. ISBN 1843530937.
somerset house.
- Stow, John A Survey of London. Reprinted from the Text of 1603. Ed. Charles Lethbridge Kingsford. 2 vols. Oxford: Clarendon, 1908 (2:394–395)
- Thurley, Simon; et al. (2009). Etherington-Smith, Meredith (ed.). Somerset House: The History. Somerset House Trust/Cultureshock Media. ISBN 978-0956266903.
External links
- Media related to Somerset House at Wikimedia Commons
- Official website of Somerset House