Somerset Levels
Designations | |
---|---|
Official name | Somerset Levels and Moors |
Designated | 26 June 1997 |
Reference no. | 914[1] |
The Somerset Levels are a coastal plain and wetland area of Somerset, England, running south from the Mendips to the Blackdown Hills.
The Somerset Levels have an area of about 160,000 acres (650 km2) and are bisected by the Polden Hills; the areas to the south are drained by the River Parrett, and the areas to the north by the rivers Axe and Brue. The Mendip Hills separate the Somerset Levels from the North Somerset Levels. The Somerset Levels consist of marine clay "levels" along the coast and inland peat-based "moors"; agriculturally, about 70 per cent is used as grassland and the rest is arable. Willow and teazel are grown commercially and peat is extracted.
A
As a result of the wetland nature of the Levels, the area contains a rich biodiversity of national and international importance. It supports a vast variety of plant and bird species and is an important feeding ground for birds and includes 32 Sites of Special Scientific Interest, of which 12 are also Special Protection Areas. The area has been extensively studied for its biodiversity and heritage, and has a growing tourism industry.
People have been draining the area since before
Natural character area
The Somerset Levels form a natural region that has been designated as a
Geography
The Levels are mainly flat areas of inland plains and a coastal sand and clay barrier, east and west of the
Although underlain by much older
It is a mainly agricultural region, typically with open fields of permanent grass surrounded by ditches with willow trees. Access to individual areas, especially for cattle, was provided by means of "droves", i.e. green lanes, leading off the public highways. Some of the old roads, in contrast to the old hollow ways found in other areas of England, are causeways raised above the level of the surrounding land, with a drainage ditch running along each side.[17]
Settlements
Most of the settlements on the Levels are small villages. In the south,
Along the coast, settlements such as
Climate
Along with the rest of
Climate data for Yeovilton, 20 m asl (1991–2020 normals), extremes since 1973 | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Record high °C (°F) | 16.1 (61.0) |
17.7 (63.9) |
21.3 (70.3) |
25.4 (77.7) |
27.5 (81.5) |
34.0 (93.2) |
35.0 (95.0) |
33.9 (93.0) |
29.3 (84.7) |
26.5 (79.7) |
18.5 (65.3) |
16.0 (60.8) |
35.0 (95.0) |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 8.6 (47.5) |
9.0 (48.2) |
11.2 (52.2) |
13.9 (57.0) |
17.1 (62.8) |
19.9 (67.8) |
21.9 (71.4) |
21.6 (70.9) |
19.2 (66.6) |
15.3 (59.5) |
11.5 (52.7) |
9.0 (48.2) |
14.9 (58.7) |
Daily mean °C (°F) | 5.3 (41.5) |
5.4 (41.7) |
7.1 (44.8) |
9.2 (48.6) |
12.3 (54.1) |
15.1 (59.2) |
17.1 (62.8) |
16.9 (62.4) |
14.6 (58.3) |
11.5 (52.7) |
8.0 (46.4) |
5.7 (42.3) |
10.7 (51.2) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 2.0 (35.6) |
1.8 (35.2) |
3.0 (37.4) |
4.5 (40.1) |
7.4 (45.3) |
10.3 (50.5) |
12.2 (54.0) |
12.2 (54.0) |
10.0 (50.0) |
7.6 (45.7) |
4.4 (39.9) |
2.3 (36.1) |
6.5 (43.7) |
Record low °C (°F) | −16.1 (3.0) |
−12.2 (10.0) |
−8.5 (16.7) |
−5.1 (22.8) |
−4.0 (24.8) |
1.8 (35.2) |
4.0 (39.2) |
2.9 (37.2) |
0.0 (32.0) |
−4.5 (23.9) |
−11.7 (10.9) |
−14.2 (6.4) |
−16.1 (3.0) |
Average precipitation mm (inches) | 70.0 (2.76) |
50.9 (2.00) |
48.5 (1.91) |
51.5 (2.03) |
47.2 (1.86) |
57.1 (2.25) |
50.2 (1.98) |
60.7 (2.39) |
53.3 (2.10) |
80.9 (3.19) |
81.9 (3.22) |
77.4 (3.05) |
729.6 (28.74) |
Average precipitation days (≥ 1 mm) | 12.2 | 10.4 | 10.0 | 10.0 | 9.2 | 8.7 | 8.3 | 9.8 | 9.1 | 12.0 | 13.2 | 12.9 | 125.8 |
Mean monthly sunshine hours | 59.5 | 79.5 | 121.6 | 170.5 | 202.2 | 199.8 | 205.3 | 185.5 | 149.2 | 107.6 | 71.6 | 53.5 | 1,605.8 |
Source: Met Office[38] Infoclimat[39] |
Water management
The Moors and Levels, formed from a submerged and reclaimed landscape, consist of a coastal clay belt only slightly above mean sea level, with an inland peat belt at a lower level behind it.[40]
Early attempts to control the water levels were possibly made by the Romans (although records only date from the 13th century), but were not widespread.[41]
There was a port at
In the Middle Ages, the monasteries of Glastonbury, Athelney, and Muchelney were responsible for much of the drainage. In 1129, the Abbot of Glastonbury was recorded as inspecting enclosed land at Lympsham. Efforts to control flooding on the Parrett were recorded around the same date. In 1234, 722 acres (2.9 km2) were reclaimed near Westonzoyland and, from the accounts in the abbey's rent books, this had increased to 972 acres (393 ha) by 1240.[43]
Drains
Flooding of adjacent moor land was partially addressed during the 13th century by the construction of a number of embankment walls to contain the Parrett. They included Southlake Wall, Burrow Wall, and Lake Wall.[44] The River Tone was also diverted by the Abbot of Athelney and other land owners into a new embanked channel, joining the Parrett upstream from its original confluence.[45]
The main drainage outlets flowing through the Moors and Levels are the rivers Axe, Brue, Huntspill, Parrett, Tone, and Yeo, together with the King's Sedgemoor Drain, an artificial channel into which the River Cary now runs. Previously, the Cary ran into the Tone while the Brue ran through Meare Pool (now drained) and the Panborough Gap, and then into the Axe. Another accomplishment in the Middle Ages was the construction of the tidal Pillrow Cut, joining the Brue and Axe.
In 1500, there was said to be 70,000 acres (283 km2) of floodable land of which only 20,000 acres (81 km2) had been reclaimed. In 1597, 50 acres (20 ha) of land were recovered near the Parrett estuary; a few years later, 140 acres (57 ha) near Pawlett were recovered by means of embankments; and three further reclamations, totalling 110 acres (45 ha), had been undertaken downstream of Bridgwater by 1660.[46]
In the early 17th century, during the time of King James I, abortive plans were made to drain and enclose much of Sedgemoor, which the local Lords supported but opposed by the Commoners who would have lost grazing rights.[47] In 1632, Charles I sold the Crown's interest in the scheme, and it was taken over by a consortium that included Sir Cornelius Vermuyden, a Dutch drainage engineer. However, the work was delayed by the English Civil War and later defeated in parliament after local opposition.[11] In 1638, it was reported that nearly 2,600 acres (11 km2) of Tealham and Tadham Moors were not reclaimed, with a total of 30,500 acres (123.43 km2) being undrained. Between 1785 and 1791, much of the lowest part of the peat moors was enclosed. In 1795, John Billingsley advocated enclosure and the digging of rhynes (a local name for drainage channels, pronounced "reens" in the east and rhyne to the west) between plots,[48] and wrote in his Agriculture of the County of Somerset that 4,400 acres (18 km2) had been enclosed in the last 20 years in Wedmore and Meare, 350 acres (1.4 km2) at Nyland, 900 acres (3.64 km2) at Blackford, 2,000 acres (8 km2) at Mark, 100 acres (0.4 km2) in Shapwick, and 1,700 acres (7 km2) at Westhay.[49]
At Westhay Moor in the early 19th century, it was shown how peat bogs could be successfully drained and top-dressed with silt deposited via flooding, creating a very rich soil.[50] The character of the soil was also changed by the spreading of clay and silt from the digging of King's Sedgemoor Drain.[51]
Pumps
Little attempt was made during the 17th and 18th centuries to pump water, possibly because the coal-driven
The human-made Huntspill River was constructed during World War II with sluices at both ends to provide a guaranteed daily supply of 4,500,000 imperial gallons (20,000,000 L; 5,400,000 US gal) of "process water".[53] It was intended that in the summer, when water supply was lower, it would serve as a reservoir with water pumped from the moors; and in winter serve as a drainage channel, via gravity drainage.[53][54] Geotechnical problems prevented it from being dug as deep as originally intended and so gravity-drainage of the moors was not possible: thus, water is pumped up into the river throughout the year.[53]
The Sowy River between the River Parrett and King's Sedgemoor Drain was completed in 1972.[55][56] The Levels and Moors are now artificially drained by a network of rhynes which are pumped up into "drains". Water levels are managed by the Levels internal drainage boards (IDBs); the Levels are not as intensively drained or farmed as the East Anglian fens, historically a similar area of low marsh. They are still liable to widespread fresh water flooding in winter. One of the approaches to reducing the risk of flooding within the catchment area of the Parrett is the planting of new woodlands.[57]
Controversy about the management of the drainage and flood protection has previously involved the activities of IDBs.[58][59] However, IDBs have been actively participating with the Parrett Catchment Partnership, a partnership of 30 organisations that aims to create a consensus on how water is to be managed, in particular, looking at new ways to achieve sustainable benefits for all local stakeholders.[60]
During 2009 and 2010, work was undertaken to upgrade sluice gates, watercourses, and culverts to enable seasonal flooding of Southlake Moor during the winter diverting water from the Sowy River onto the moor. It has the capacity to hold 1.2 million cubic metres as part of a scheme by the Parrett Internal Drainage Board to restore ten floodplains in Somerset. In spring, the water is drained away to enable the land to be used as pasture during the summer.[61] The scheme is also used to encourage water birds.[62]
Sea defences
The Levels were frequently flooded by the sea during high tides, a problem that was not resolved until the
On 13 December 1981, a
The Environment Agency's current "Parrett Catchment Flood Management Plan", published in December 2009, divides the Parrett catchment area into eight sub-areas, with the Somerset Levels and Moors falling into sub-area 6 and Bridgwater falling into sub-area 7.[65] As part of the published flood risk assessments for both these sub-areas, it is recognised that: at a future date a tidal clyse may be needed on the Parrett; this causes a funding dilemma; and, geomorphology studies of the Parrett and the Tone are needed to help address many of the uncertainties associated with a tidal exclusion project.[65]
Flooding
The Levels are at risk from both tidal and land-based flood waters.[40]
During the
Since 1990, the drainage boards have been charged with watching the rhynes and keeping them clear, under the overall responsibility of the Environment Agency. With rising sea levels, the work required to maintain the sea defences is likely to become more expensive, and it has been proposed that two inland seas be created.[67] Other studies have recommended maintaining the current defences for five years while undertaking further studies of available options.[68]
Although the Environment Agency have made plans for the regular winter flooding, still in recent years this has resulted in a number of villages — including
Rescue boats were again required during the rain and storms from
Human habitation
A
The Levels contain the best-preserved prehistoric village in the UK,
The two villages within Meare Pool appear to originate from a collection of structures erected on the surface of the dried peat, such as tents, windbreaks and animal folds. Clay was later spread over the peat, providing raised stands for occupation, industry and movement, and in some areas thicker clay spreads accommodated hearths built of clay or stone.[85]
The area continued to be inhabited during the
Sea salt was extracted during the Roman period, and a string of settlements were set up along the Polden Hills. Some possible settlement sites are also known in the Draycott and Cheddar Moors and around Highbridge.[91] The discovery at Shapwick of 9,238 silver Roman coins,[92][93] the second largest hoard ever found from the Roman Empire included coins dated from as early as 31–30 BC up until 224 AD.[94] The hoard also contained two rare coins which had not been discovered in Britain before,[93] and the largest number of silver denarii ever found in Britain.[92][95]
A number of
In 1685, the Monmouth Rebellion ended at the Battle of Sedgemoor, which was fought in the Bussex area of Westonzoyland.[99]
Land use
The Levels have few wooded areas, just occasional willow trees. The landscape is dominated by grassland, mostly used as pasture for dairy farming with approximately 70 per cent of the area being grassland and 30 per cent arable. From January until May, the River Parrett provides a source of European eels (Anguilla anguilla) and young elvers, which are caught by hand netting as this is the only legal means of catching them.[100] A series of eel passes have been built on the Parrett at the King's Sedgemoor Drain to help this endangered species; cameras have shown 10,000 eels migrating upstream in a single night.[101][102] The 2003 BBC Radio 4 play Glass Eels by Nell Leyshon was set on the Parrett.[103]
The Levels, as part of the West Country, traditionally produced cider, with individual farms having orchards and their own cider, known as scrumpy. However, over 60% of Somerset's orchards have been lost in the last fifty years;[104] and apple production occupies less than 0.4% of the land. Cider is still produced in Somerset by Thatchers Cider, Gaymer Cider Company and numerous small independent producers. Other local industries that once thrived on the Levels, such as thatching (using reeds) and basket making (using willow), have been in decline since the second half of the 20th century. Combined with the recent drop in farm incomes, this poses a potential threat to the "traditional" nature of the area as a whole. Subsidies are paid to farmers who manage their land in the traditional way.[105]
Electricity generation
In 2009,
In 2010 and 2011, two proposals to build a total of 14 wind turbines, with Ecotricity to build five[116] or four[117] adjacent to the M5 Motorway near Brent Knoll and Électricité de France to build nine at East Huntspill,[108] are opposed by local groups on the grounds of their effect on the local environment and potential damage to the bird population.[118]
Willow
Willow has been cut and used on the Levels since mankind moved into the area. Fragments of willow basket were found near the Glastonbury Lake Village, and it was used in the construction of several Iron Age causeways.[119] The willow was harvested using traditional methods of pollarding, where a tree would be cut back to the main stem. New shoots of willow, called "withies", would grow out of the trunk and these would be cut periodically for use.[120]
During the 1930s, over 9,000 acres (36 km2) of willow were being grown commercially on the Levels. Largely because of the replacement of baskets by plastic bags and cardboard boxes, the industry has severely declined since the 1950s. By the end of the 20th century only about 350 acres (1.4 km2) were grown commercially, near the villages of
Another use of willow has been found by the Coate family, who make artists' charcoals in Stoke St Gregory. It has become in 30 years the leading artists' charcoal manufacturer in Europe, producing most of the natural charcoals sold under different art-material brands.[126]
The industry is celebrated in the form of the Willow Man (sometimes known as the Angel of the South), a willow sculpture, 40 feet (12.2 m) tall, produced by artist Serena de la Hey in September 2000 that can be seen from the railway and the M5 motorway to the north of Bridgwater.[127] At Stoke St Gregory there is also a Willows and Wetlands Visitor Centre.[128]
Teazel growing
An unusual crop was the growing of
Peat extraction
The extraction of
-
Peat gatherers, Westhay, September 1905
-
Peat stacks and cutting, Westhay, September 1905
-
Harvesting the peat, Westhay, September 1905
Biodiversity and conservation
As a result of their
In 2010, a project was started to reintroduce the
The Levels contain 32
A survey in 2005 discovered that 11 of the known wooden Bronze Age causeways on the Levels had been destroyed or vanished and others were seriously damaged, caused by the reduction in water levels and subsequent exposure of the timber to oxygen and aerobic bacteria.[155] Part of the Sweet Track is being actively conserved. Following purchase of land by the National Heritage Memorial Fund, and installation of a water pumping and distribution system along a 550-yard (500 m) section, several hundred metres of the track's length are now being actively conserved.[156] This method of preserving wetland archaeological remains (i.e. maintaining a high water table and saturating the site) is rare.[157] A 550-yard (500 m) section, which lies within the land owned by the Nature Conservancy Council, has been surrounded by a clay bank to prevent drainage into surrounding lower peat fields, and water levels are regularly monitored.[158] The viability of this method is demonstrated by comparing it with the nearby Abbot's Way, which has not had similar treatment, and which in 1996 was found to have become dewatered and desiccated.[159] Evaluation and maintenance of water levels in the Shapwick Heath Nature Reserve involves the Nature Conservancy Council, the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs and the Somerset Levels Project.[160]
Somerset Levels Project
In 1964, archaeologist John Coles from the University of Cambridge began a research project that resulted in the publication of an important series of papers on many aspects of the Levels. A range of archaeological projects, such as the exploration of various trackways from the 3rd and 1st millennia BC and the establishment of their economic and geographic significance, was funded by various donors including English Heritage.[161] Possibly the project's most significant excavation was of the Sweet Track in 1970,[162] during which a Jadeite axe was discovered.[163] Eight radiocarbon determinations of the date of the axe place it at around 3200 BC.[164]
The work of John Coles and the Somerset Levels Project was recognised in 1998 when they won the ICI Award for the best archaeological project offering a major contribution to knowledge,[165] and in 2006 with the award of the European Archaeological Heritage Prize.[166]
Shapwick Project
This project, based on the village of Shapwick, was begun by Mick Aston of Bristol University to investigate the evolution of a typical English village.[167] A preliminary study of the village's history was carried out using maps and documents, then surveys of the buildings were made together with botanical surveys. Field walking was carried out and key sites excavated. A report on the project, which ran from 1989 to 1999, was published in eight volumes.[168]
Tourism
Being largely flat, the Levels are well suited to bicycles, and a number of
Visitors' centres aim to convey various aspects of the Levels. The Willows and Wetlands Visitor Centre near Stoke St Gregory offers tours of the willow yards and basket workshops and explains the place of willow in the history of the Levels. The Somerset Willow Company also allows visitors into its workshops.[128]
The Avalon Marshes Centre but it was reopened as the Avalon Marshes Centre and is in the process of being modernized and improved from the previous set of buildings.
The Langport & River Parrett Visitor Centre at
See also
- List of locations in the Somerset Levels
- Caldicot and Wentloog Levels
- The Fens
- Romney Marsh
- Geology of Somerset
- East Somerset Railway
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Further reading
- ISBN 0-86183-028-8.
- ISBN 0-86183-129-2.
- Coles, Bryony; Coles, John (1986). Sweet Track to Glastonbury: Somerset Levels in Prehistory (New Aspects of Antiquity). ISBN 0-500-39022-3.
- Coles, John; Minnitt, S.C. (1995). Industrious and Fairly Civilized: Glastonbury Lake Village. Somerset Levels Project. ISBN 0-9507122-2-1.
- Hill-Cottingham, Pat; Briggs, Derek; Brunning, Richard; King, Andy; Rix, Graham (2006). The Somerset Wetlands: An Ever Changing Environment. Somerset Archaeological and Natural History Society. ISBN 0-86183-432-1.
External links
- Somerset Wildlife Trust
- British Pathé clip shows drainage works at King's Sedgemoor & River Brue, 1942
- 1962 historic film on willow
51°11′N 2°58′W / 51.19°N 2.96°W