Suit jacket
A suit jacket, also called a lounge jacket, lounge coat or suit coat, is a
Single and double-breasted
Most
Lapels
The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called stepped), peaked (pointed), or shawl. Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are the most common of the three and are usually only found on single-breasted jackets. They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree 'notch' at the point where the lapel meets the collar.[5] Peaked lapels have sharp edges which point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels may be found on single breasted jackets as well. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.[6] Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits.[7]
The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the notch or peak between the collar and front lapel).
Lapels also have a buttonhole, intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.[8]
Pockets
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted (besom) pockets.[9] The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on
A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a
In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking.[10]
Sleeves
Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four
Vents
A
See also
- Blazer
- Sports jacket
- Tuxedo
- Smoking jacket
- Stroller (style)
- Pantsuit
References
- ^ Druesdow (1990). p. vi. "...for often the difference in style from season to season was in the distance between buttons..."
- ^ Flusser (2002). p. 83
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 14
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 16
- ^ "What's the Difference Between a Notch Lapel, Peak Lapel, and Shawl Lapel on a Suit". sharpsense.ca. Retrieved 2017-09-26.
- ^ Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29). "Single-breasted, peaked lapel". English Cut. Retrieved 2008-09-20.
- ^ Flusser (2002). pp. 82–85
- ^ Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07). "What's in your lapel?". A Suitable Wardrobe. Retrieved 2008-09-24.
- ^ The Nu-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes Making (1926). Lesson 33
- ^ a b Flusser (1985). ch. 2
- ^ Mahon, Thomas (2007-01-18). "Real cuff holes..." English Cut. Retrieved 2008-10-26.
- New York Times. Retrieved 2009-02-14.
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172