Tailcoat
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A tailcoat is a knee-length
The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient
Thus, in 21st-century
- Dress coat, an evening wear item with a squarely cut-away front, worn for formal white tie
- Morning coat (or cutaway in American English), a day-wear item with a gradually tapered front cut away, worn for formal morning dress
In
History
Shadbelly
In
Levée dress coat
This is a type of dress coat traditionally worn with court dress, until the mid-twentieth century. It was made of black velvet and traditionally worn at court, levées, and evening state parties by those who did not wear uniforms. A version made of black barathea was also worn as diplomatic dress.
It was single breasted with a stand-up collar, with plain gauntlet cuffs, and two three-pointed flap pockets on the waist seam. It had six metal buttons at the front, and two decorative buttons at the back. The body of the coat was lined with black silk, and skirts with white silk. It was worn with breeches, black silk hose, white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) with steel buckles. The front of the coat was cut away squarely like a standard dress coat.[1]
Military coatee
From c. 1790 until after the
The Americans issued a similar uniform in dark blue to enlisted men during the
The Royal Navy had an elaborate hierarchy of tailcoats for the officers, allowing further buttons and gilding according to rank and seniority. These were single-breasted for junior officers and double-breasted for those with the rank of lieutenant and above.
Highland coatee
This is worn with Highland dress, and has a square cut away front like a dress coat, but the tails are cut significantly shorter.
Footman's coat
This was worn as livery, a servant's uniform. It was knee length with a sloped cut-away front like a morning coat. It was single breasted with a stand-up collar and gilt buttons. There were three-pronged side pockets similar in style to the levée dress coat.
Dress coat
A dress coat, sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the
The modern dress coat is an evolution of the coat that was once both day and evening dress. It became increasingly popular from around the late 1790s and was particularly widespread during the
A dress coat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. Sometimes there is a pocket on the inside to hold
As part of modern white tie, a black dress coat is worn with a stiff, white wing-collar
Morning coat
A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam. The lapels are usually
The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat.
The modern morning coat (or cutaway in American English) is a man's coat worn as the principal item in morning dress. The name derives from morning nineteenth-century
The Marshal and Clerk of the
In modern American English, morning coats are referred to as cutaway coats.
References
- ^ An example of such a levée coat can be seen at "Henry Poole — Court Dress". Archived from the original on 2008-10-13. Retrieved 2008-10-08.
- ^ "19th Regiment of Foot, The Green Howards - Crimean War Impression". www.19thfoot.co.uk. Archived from the original on 2021-04-22. Retrieved 2009-02-12.
- ^ "C&D Jarnagin 1812 Catalog in "Frames" mode". www.jarnaginco.com. Archived from the original on 2021-02-26. Retrieved 2009-02-12.
- ^ "An Introduction to Gentlemen's Fashions During the Regency Era". We Make History. Archived from the original on 2020-11-27. Retrieved 2008-01-06.
- ^ "White Tie – Coat". Cambridge University Heraldic and Genealogical Society. Archived from the original on 2015-09-24. Retrieved 2008-04-12.
- ^ "The Supreme Court". C-SPAN. Archived from the original on 2015-03-09. Retrieved 2009-10-07.
Bibliography
- Antongiavanni, Nicholas: The Suit, HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. ISBN 0-06-089186-6
- Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5
- Byrd, Penelope: The Male Image, Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970. B.T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. ISBN 0-7134-0860-X
- Croonborg, Frederick: The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring. Croonborg Sartorial Co. New York and Chicago, 1907
- Cunnington, Phillis(1959): Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century, Plays Inc, Boston, 1970 reprint
- Devere, Louis: The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (London, 1866) revised and edited by ISBN 0-914046-03-9
- Doyle, Robert: The Art of the Tailor, Sartorial Press Publications, Stratford, Ontario; 2005. ISBN 0-9683039-2-7
- Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): Men's Fashion Illustration from the Turn of the Century Reprint. Originally published: New York: Jno J. Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publications, 1990 ISBN 0-486-26353-3
- ISBN 978-0-06-019144-3
- Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis: Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950, Plays Inc, Boston, 1973
- Minister, Edward: The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (London, 1853) Vol 1 & II. Edited with notes by ISBN 0-914046-17-9
- Peacock, John: Men's Fashion: the complete sourcebook, Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1996. ISBN 0-500-01725-5
- ISBN 0-914046-22-5
- Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: a century of people and their clothes 1770-1870. Laura Ashley Press, Carno, Powys ISBN 0-9508913-0-4
- Unknown author: The Standard Work on Cutting Men's Garments. 4th ed. Originally pub. 1886 by Jno J. Mitchell, New York. ISBN 0-916896-33-1
- Vincent, W. D. F.: The Cutter's Practical Guide. Vol II "All kinds of body coats". The John Williamson Company, London, circa 1893.
- Waugh, Norah: The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900, Routledge, London, 1964. ISBN 0-87830-025-2
- Whife, A. A. (ed): The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier. The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951