Tie-dye
Tie-dye is a term used to describe a number of resist dyeing techniques and the resulting dyed products of these processes. The process of tie-dye typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment, before binding with string or rubber bands, followed by the application of dye or dyes.[1] The manipulations of the fabric before the application of dye are called resists, as they partially or completely prevent ('resist') the applied dye from coloring the fabric. More sophisticated tie-dye may involve additional steps, including an initial application of dye before the resist, multiple sequential dyeing and resist steps, and the use of other types of resists (stitching, stencils) and discharge.
Unlike regular resist-dyeing techniques, modern tie-dye is characterized by the use of bright, saturated primary colors and bold patterns. These patterns, including the
In the 21st century, a revived interest in more 'sophisticated' tie-dye techniques emerged in the fashion and hobby industry, characterized by simple motifs, monochromatic color schemes, a focus on fashionable garments and fabrics other than cotton,[2] and the pursuit of tie-dye as an art form, rather than a commodity.
Dyes, fabrics, and discharge agents
A variety of dyes are used in tie-dyeing, including household, fiber
Most tie-dyes are now dyed with fiber-reactive dyes, a class of dyes effective on cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, rayon, and linen. This class of dyes reacts with fibers at alkaline (high) pH, forming a wash-fast, permanent bond. Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is the most common agent used to raise the pH and initiate the reaction, and is either added directly to the dye or in a solution of water in which garments are soaked before dyeing. Fiber-reactives dyes are relatively safe and simple to use,[3] and are the same dyes used commercially to color cellulosic fabrics.
Discharge agents are used to bleach color from the previously dyed fabrics and can be used as a reverse tie-dye, where the application of the agent results in loss of color rather than its application. Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) can be used to discharge fiber-reactive dyes on bleach-resistant fibers such as cotton or hemp, but not on wool or silk, though the results are variable, as some fiber-reactive dyes are more resistant to bleach than others. It is important to bleach as long as required to obtain the desired shade (which will be lighter than observed on wet, unwashed fabric), and to neutralize the bleach with agents such as sodium bisulfite, to prevent damage to the fibers. Thiourea dioxide is another commonly used discharge agent that can be used on cotton, wool, or silk. A thiourea dioxide discharge bath is made with hot water made mildly basic with sodium carbonate. The results of thiourea dioxide discharge differ significantly from bleach discharge due to the nature of the reaction. Since thiourea dioxide only bleaches in the absence of oxygen, and the fabric to be bleached retains oxygen, a fractal pattern of bleaching will be observed. This is in distinct contrast with household bleach discharge, where the bleaching agent penetrates fabric easily (particularly in bleach formulations containing detergent). For example, pleating fabric multiple times and clamping on a resist will yield a clear design after outlining the resist with household bleach, but discharge with reducing agents will only partially penetrate the resisted area.
In general, discharge techniques, particularly using household bleach, are a readily accessible way to tie-dye without the use of often messy and relatively expensive dyes. It is particularly easy to put a design on cloth using stencils and sprayed-on solutions of household bleach, but the intricate and unintended results of discharge using reducing agents often surpass the results of oxidizing discharge techniques.
Designs and patterns
Tie-dye can be used to create a wide variety of designs on fabric, from standard patterns such as the spiral, peace sign, diamond, and the marble effect to beautiful works of art. Using techniques such as stencils (as in screen printing using dyes or discharge pastes), clamped-on shaped blocks, and tritik (stitching and gathering), tie-dye can produce almost any design desired. If a modern kit is used, then it is easier to accomplish a spiral or circle.
History
Earliest examples
The earliest examples of tie-dye in the Far East are from Sui dynasty (5th century AD) China.[6]
The earliest surviving examples of
Asia
Shibori is a form of tie-dye which originated in Japan, and has been practiced there since the 8th century. Shibori includes several labor-intensive resist techniques which include stitching elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing, forming intricate designs for kimono, obi and other accessories and garments. Another shibori method is to wrap the fabric around a core of rope, wood, or other material, and bind it tightly with string or thread. The areas of the fabric that are against the core or under the binding would remain undyed.
In Indonesia, especially in Java, tie-dye is known as jumputan.[8] Other terms including plangi and tritik are Indonesian terms derived from Javanese words for methods related to tie-dye. In Indonesia, tie-dye might be combined with other dyeing technique, such as batik jumputan, which combine tie-dye with batik wax-resist dyeing.[9] Ikat is a method of tie-dyeing the warp or weft before the cloth is woven.
Bandhani is an Indian form of tie-dye that originated in western India.
Mudmee tie-dye originates in Thailand and the neighboring part of Laos. It uses different shapes and colors from other types of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general, more subdued. Another difference is that the base color is black.
In the 1941 book, "Orphans of the Pacific", about the Philippines, it was noted: "There are a few thousand Bagobos, who wear highly decorated clothing made of hemp fiber, all tied-and-dyed into fancy designs, and who further ornament themselves with big metal disks."
In China, especially in Dali, Yunnan Province, a traditional form of tie-dye is practiced by the Dali Bai people, known as Dali Bai nationality tie-dye (大理白族扎染).[10]
Africa
Tie-dye
In southwestern Nigeria, the technique known as adire is produced, using a variety of resist-dyeing techniques.
Tie-dye in the Western world
Tie-dyeing was known in the US by 1909, when Professor Charles E. Pellow of Columbia University acquired some samples of tie-dyed muslin and subsequently gave a lecture and live demonstration of the technique.[15]
Although
Tie-dyeing, particularly after the introduction of affordable
Gallery
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An assortment of tie-dye T-shirts
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A T-shirt being tie-dyed
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Purple tie-dye
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A child tie-dying a T-shirt
See also
References
- The George Washington University. Retrieved 10 May 2022.
- ^ Ebert, Erin. "Sense Of Fashion: Tie-dye gets modern". Savanna Now. Morris Publishing, Inc. Archived from the original on 3 December 2013. Retrieved 16 November 2013.
- ^ Burch, Paula. "About Fiber Reactive Dyes". All About Hand Dyeing. Retrieved 16 November 2013.
- ^ Burch, Paula. "Acid Dyes". All About Hand Dyeing. Retrieved 16 November 2013.
- ^ "Vat Dyes" (PDF). Immersion Dyeing Using PRO Vat Dyes. PRO Chemical & Dye. Archived from the original (PDF) on 29 April 2015. Retrieved 16 November 2013.
- ISBN 978-1-56836-396-7.
- ^ "Amarras Replication Research". World Shibori Network. 8 December 2008. Archived from the original on 2012-12-29. Retrieved 2012-12-15.
- ^ "Representing a Rainbow of Culture". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 2021-03-10.
- ^ "Batik Jumputan, Kain Tradisional Tie Dye Asli Indonesia". kumparan (in Indonesian). Retrieved 2021-03-10.
- ^ ""大理白族扎染"的"非遗+旅游"之路-新华网".
- ^ "Tie-dye is making a major comeback right now — here's why". TODAY.com. 20 April 2020. Retrieved 2020-04-21.
- ISBN 978-0-19-285055-3.
- ISBN 978-1-332-52142-5.
- ^ ISBN 1-56024-376-7.
- ^ Pellew, Charles E. (1909). "Tied and Dyed Work: An Oriental Process with American Variations". Craftsman. 16: 695–701. Retrieved 15 December 2012.
- ^ a b c d "The Psychedelic Tie-Dye Look". TIME Magazine. 26 January 1970. Archived from the original on July 12, 2007. Retrieved 14 December 2012.(subscription required)
- ^ Alex Gibney & Alison Ellwood (2011) [with 1964 footage]. Magic Trip: Ken Kesey's Search for a Kool Place (documentary film). United States: A&E IndieFilms, Phoenix Wiley.
- ^ "Tie and dye (8 different types & easy tie dye techniques)". Sewguide.
- ISBN 0-584-11070-7.
- ^ "Trousers by Gordon Deighton in tie-dyed silk". V&A. 1968. Retrieved 15 December 2012.
Further reading
- Weinger, Erin (2003-05-29). "Psychedelic Beginnings". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2012-12-15.
- Meilach, Dona (1973). Contemporary Batik and Tie-Dye. New York, NY: Crown Publishers, Inc. ISBN 0-517-50088-4.
- Belfer, Nancy (1992). Batik and Tie Dye Techniques. Dover Publications. ISBN 0-486-27131-5.
- Maile, Anne (1971). Tie and Dye as a Present Day Craft. Taplinger Publishing Co. ISBN 0-8008-7700-4.
- Simon-Alexander, Shabd (2013). Tie-Dye: Dye It, Wear It, Share It. Potter Craft. ISBN 978-0-307-96573-8.
- Blanken, Rain. "How-To Tie Dye Instructions". About.com. Archived from the original on 27 March 2014. Retrieved 15 December 2012.
- "Tie-Dye Wiki". Archived from the original on 2008-07-05. Retrieved 2012-12-15.
- "How To Tie Dye". Retrieved 2014-04-14.
- "Study Mudmee Tie Dye". Retrieved 2013-05-22.
- "Mudmee Tie Dye". Retrieved 2013-05-22.
- "Tie dye chemical colors". http://diarylove.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5070 Archived 2016-10-28 at the Wayback Machine
- "Tie dye in Thailand". http://www.kiriwonggroup.com/dye.html Archived 2016-10-28 at the Wayback Machine