Tweed

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(Redirected from
Tweed cloth
)
This article is about the cloth. For the river in Scotland and England, see River Tweed. For other uses, see Tweed (disambiguation).

Harris Tweed woven in a herringbone twill
pattern, mid-20th century

Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun.[1]

Tweeds are an icon of traditional Scottish, Irish, Welsh, and English clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear,

Isle of Harris
in the Hebrides.

Etymology

Tweed making at the Leach family woollen mill at Mochdre, Powys, Wales, 1940

The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. Around 1831, a London merchant, James Locke, received a letter from a Hawick firm, Wm. Watson & Sons, Dangerfield Mills about some "tweels". The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since.[5]

Traditions and culture

Bike in Tweed, Stockholm 2013

Traditionally used for upper-class country clothing such as

1960s fashion, windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, Glen plaid check, originally commissioned by Edward VII, and herringbone.[10]

During the 2000s and 2010s, members of long-established British and American land-owning families started to wear high-quality heirloom tweed inherited from their grandparents, some of which pre-dated the Second World War.[11][12]

In modern times, cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a

hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s, whose adherents appreciate both vintage tweed, and bicycles.[13]

Musical instruments

Some vintage

upright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism. Occasionally, Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool.[14]

The term "tweed" is used to describe coverings on instrument cables and vintage or

Fender Tweed Deluxe.[15]
Despite the terminology, many of these coverings were not considered tweed but cotton twill due to the cover's design, which caused this misidentification of the design.

Types of tweed

Gallery

  • Logo of the Harris Tweed authority
    Logo of the
    Harris Tweed
    authority
  • Glen plaid, Glenurquhart, or Prince of Wales check, frequently used to make overcoats and sportcoats in the 1950s
    Glen plaid, Glenurquhart, or Prince of Wales check, frequently used to make overcoats and sportcoats in the 1950s
  • Example of the herringbone pattern, a popular choice for suits and outerwear
    Example of the
    suits
    and outerwear
  • Houndstooth, the basis of the keeper's tweed popular among the upper classes from the 1860s until the 1930s
    Houndstooth, the basis of the keeper's tweed popular among the upper classes from the 1860s until the 1930s
  • Grey Donegal tweed sportcoat
    Grey
    sportcoat
  • A deerstalker hat made of district or gamekeeper's tweed (contrasting mustard, green and brown checks)
    A
    gamekeeper
    's tweed (contrasting mustard, green and brown checks)
  • Windowpane tweed popular in the late 19th century and again in the 1970s
    Windowpane tweed popular in the late 19th century and again in the 1970s
  • Frederick III with his young son Wilhelm wearing highland dress including tweed kilt jacket
    Wilhelm wearing highland dress including tweed kilt
    jacket
  • Hunting apparel belonging to Gustaf V of Sweden, 1930s.
    Hunting apparel belonging to
    Gustaf V of Sweden
    , 1930s.
  • Harris Tweed Nike
    Harris Tweed Nike
  • Charlie Hunter (left) watches as Old Tom Morris plays a shot in 1863 at Prestwick. Both of the players are wearing the traditional tweeds.
    Charlie Hunter (left) watches as Old Tom Morris plays a shot in 1863 at Prestwick. Both of the players are wearing the traditional tweeds.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ "Harris Tweed - The Cloth". The Harris Tweed Authority. Archived from the original on 15 August 2015. Retrieved 1 August 2015.
  2. ^ Fashion Institute of Technology (2006). ""The Tailor's Art" | Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary". The Museum at FIT. Archived from the original on 2 June 2007. Retrieved 24 November 2008.
  3. ^ "Tweed Jackets | A Closely Woven Thing". Cad & the Dandy. 20 November 2015. Retrieved 19 March 2019.
  4. ISBN 9781788492010
    .
  5. ISBN 978-1326384067
    .
  6. ^ Edward Minister and Son (August 1872). "The Norfolk Jacket". Gazette of Fashion, and Cutting-room Companion. 27 (316). Simpkin, Marshall & Co: 31.
  7. ^ Dutton, Edward (22 August 2014). "How to wear a tweed suit in the 21st century". A Suit That Fits. Archived from the original on 28 March 2019. Retrieved 26 January 2016.
  8. ^ loopy_lucy14 (31 October 1997). "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (1996)". IMDb. Retrieved 27 July 2011.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  9. ISBN 0-7134-2534-2
    .
  10. ^ "The RL Style Guide | Glossary | Herringbone". Ralph Lauren. Archived from the original on 19 September 2008. Retrieved 24 November 2008.
  11. ^ "Nigel Cabourn DB Tweed Jacket - Rare Classic Quality?". Grey Fox. 5 September 2012. Retrieved 17 October 2013.
  12. ^ Bath, Richard (25 July 2009). "Richard Bath: In defence of tweed". The Scotsman. JPIMedia Ltd. Retrieved 17 October 2013.
  13. ^ "#TheChapMag Vintage Garments". The Chap Magazine. 11 September 2012. Archived from the original on 25 October 2013. Retrieved 8 August 2013.
  14. ^ Price, Richard (16 March 2013). "Harris Tweed Bagpipe Covers". The Big Cloth and Me. Retrieved 8 August 2013.
  15. ^ Hunter, Dave (July 2012). "The Fender 5F4 Super Amp". Vintage Guitar. pp. 50–52.
  16. ^ "About Us - Guardians of the Orb". The Harris Tweed Authority. Archived from the original on 8 March 2013. Retrieved 1 August 2015.

References

External links

  • Media related to Tweed at Wikimedia Commons
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