Wallingford, Oxfordshire

Coordinates: 51°35′56″N 1°07′30″W / 51.599°N 1.125°W / 51.599; -1.125
Source: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Wallingford
Shire county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townWallingford
Postcode districtOX10
Dialling code01491
PoliceThames Valley
FireOxfordshire
AmbulanceSouth Central
UK Parliament
WebsiteWallingford Town Council
List of places
UK
England
Oxfordshire
51°35′56″N 1°07′30″W / 51.599°N 1.125°W / 51.599; -1.125

Wallingford (

2011 census.[1]

The town has played an important role in English history starting with the surrender of

Royalist stronghold in Berkshire before surrendering after a 16-week siege. Fearing that Wallingford Castle could be used in a future uprising, Oliver Cromwell
ordered its destruction.

Since then Wallingford has become a

Methodist
and community churches.

Etymology

The place-name first appears as Wælingford in a

Saxon charter of 821, as Welingaford around 891 and as Walingeford in the Domesday Book
of 1086. A number of etymologies have been proposed and the name has been the subject of debate for centuries.

Both

British speaking Celts).[5][6]

History

Early history

Ruins in the Wallingford Castle Gardens

Wallingford developed around an important

mint royal coinage. It was enclosed with substantial earthworks by King Alfred the Great in the ninth century as part of a network of fortified towns known as burhs, or burghs, to protect Wessex against the Vikings. These defences can still be clearly discerned as a group of four roughly square areas around the centre of the town and are well-preserved. Wallingford became the chief town of Berkshire and the seat of the county's Ealdorman
.

Medieval period

During the

forded. The town subsequently stood in high favour with the Normans as Wallingford Castle was built soon afterward on the orders of William, and became a key strategic centre controlling the Thames crossing and surrounding area.[7] The Domesday Book of 1086 lists Wallingford as one of only 18 towns in the kingdom with a population of over 2,000 people.[citation needed
]

Establishment of Wallingford Priory (1097)

St Albans Abbey in 1097 by Henry I, and Geoffrey the Chamberlain gave the priory to St Albans Paul, 14th Abbot of St Albans, who sent some of his monks to establish a cell there. Wallingford Priory produced the mathematician Richard of Wallingford
and the chronicler John of Wallingford.

The Anarchy and King John (12th century)

Wallingford provided refuge for the Empress Matilda's party during the civil war that began after her father Henry I's death. After the fall of Oxford Castle to Stephen in 1141, Matilda fled to Wallingford, according to some historic accounts in the snow under a moonlit sky.[8] Wallingford Castle was besieged unsuccessfully a number of times, with the Treaty of Wallingford ending the conflict there in November 1153.

The town was granted a

Royal Charter in 1155 by the new king, Henry II, being the second town in England
to receive one.

During Prince John's unsuccessful revolt against his brother King

King John reclaimed the castle after his inheriting the crown in 1199. John modernised, fortified and greatly enlarged the Castle and used it extensively during the First Barons' War.[8]

Decline (13th–15th century)

The town declined in importance from the mid-13th century, with a shrinking in its size and population. The town was hit a further blow when plague arrived in 1343, it severely damaged the town and its population, the number of churches declined from eleven (during the reign of King Henry II) to only four by the 15th century.[7] The castle declined subsequently, much stone being removed to renovate Windsor Castle.

The road from London to Gloucestershire passed through Wallingford, and the town flourished as a trading centre throughout most of the Middle Ages. The road was diverted, and a bridge was constructed at Abingdon. The opening of Abingdon Bridge and loss of traffic that the road had brought caused the town to enter a steep economic decline.[7]

Catherine of Valois and Owen Tudor (1422)

Catherine of Valois

In 1422 Wallingford and its castle was granted to

Bosworth Field and founded the Tudor Dynasty
.

The Tudor dynasty (1485–1603)

One of the last documented uses of Wallingford as a royal residence was during 1518. Letters between

King Henry VIII's dissatisfaction with Wallingford and his desire to move on.[9] The priory was dissolved in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey, partly in order to fund the building of the Cardinal College in Oxford.[9] Henry VIII separated the Honour of Wallingford, which included rights of control over the town and its castle, from the Duchy of Cornwall
in 1540.

He combined it with the

Elizabeth I.[9]

English Civil War and aftermath

King Charles I and Queen Henrietta Maria
Colonel Thomas Blagge

Maintenance and repair of

Parliamentary army was 16,000 strong and laid siege to Reading using cannons. Reading was unable to hold out long enough for the King and Prince Rupert to arrive and break the siege. The town surrendered on 27 April 1643, with "the garrison joining the royal army and together they retreated through Wallingford back to Oxford".[9]

In 1643 a group of

Parliamentarians. General Waller took the town and the garrison retreated to Wallingford.[10]

After the

Royalists had already advanced to Oxford, with the castle blocking their path. It was annoyance at missing an opportunity to capture the king that led to Cromwell forming his New Model Army.[10]

Siege of Wallingford

General Thomas Fairfax

The first assault on the town was led by Colonel Baxter, the governor of

Parliamentarians
laid siege to Oxford on 11 May.

Prince Maurice, were marched out of the city with full honours. Now only Wallingford remained, its garrison faithfully holding the town and castle for the king under the leadership of Colonel Blagge. However, his position was now impossible to hold, with the town being blockaded on all sides. It was only a matter of time, but still Blagge held that he would not surrender without the king's order and even threatened to set fire to the town during a full assault.[10]

A

Parliamentary special council met and decided that the difficulty of any full assault would cause unacceptable losses. Waiting and trying to starve Blagge out would give the king time to build his forces. They were also very concerned that they were risking making a martyr of the town to the Royalist cause in Berkshire
if the townspeople suffered too much, either in a prolonged siege or an assault. The council resolved to draw up preferential terms for Wallingford's surrender. Initially, Blagge refused even these with the same answer that he would need the king's consent to surrender the town. However, by July, with the king's surrender to the Scotch Army and Wallingford now being the only stronghold in Berkshire still loyal to the crown, he knew that there would be no relief or reinforcements.

The blockade had over time also been tightened, and with the prospect of desertion and mutiny from his starving soldiers, Blagge was forced to reopen negotiations. The terms of Blagge's surrender were drawn up on 22 July 1646. General Fairfax respected Blagge as a fellow soldier for his work in resurrecting the castle for the war, and for the manner in which he chose to hold for as long as possible instead of surrendering. Fairfax therefore still granted Blagge the original favourable terms of surrender he was offered, even though the situation had changed. The surrender stipulated that the town and its castle would be surrendered to General Fairfax on 29 July and that all of the town's arms, ordinance and provisions of war would be handed over to Fairfax.

Prides Purge
.

Slighting of the castle

Continued turmoil, unrest in the country and a fear that the residents of Wallingford were still loyal to the crown caused

Council of State decided that Wallingford Castle should be "forthwith demolished and the workes thereto belonging effectually slighted."[9] Materials from the castle were used again for improvement works at Windsor Castle and for the repair and improvement of the church of St Mary-le-More.[9]

Georgian period

Sir William Blackstone

St Peter
's Church.

By the end of the 18th century, the

MPs
cut from two to one.

20th and 21st century

On 9 September 1944 a

Flying Officer John Archibald Wilding, and his flight engineer, 22-year-old Sergeant John Francis Andrew, remained at the controls in order to steer the plane away from the town, crashing into the fields at Newnham Murren and thus preventing loss of many civilian lives. Both Wilding and Andrew were mentioned in dispatches for their bravery, with Wilding being posthumously awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross.[11] They are commemorated by a memorial at the junction of Wilding Road and Andrew Road in Wallingford and by the Canadian flag that is flown over Wallingford Town Hall every year on 9 September in their memory.[12]

Paul's Malt on Hithercroft Road, built in 1958, was demolished in 2001; thus the malting industry ended, which had been key to Wallingford for hundreds of years. At one time there were at least 17 maltings in the town.[citation needed]

Landmarks and structures

Wallingford Bridge

Wallingford Bridge

The

Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall
, and four remaining arches are believed to contain 13th-century elements.

Major repairs used stone from the dissolved

balustrade
added. The street lights on the bridge were made in the town and feature the Wilder mark on the base.

Wallingford Castle

Main article: Wallingford Castle
Castle

Henry VIII
, the castle fell into decline.

Refortified during the

Parliamentary forces, the castle finally surrendered in July 1646 under generous terms for the defenders. The risk of civil conflict continued, however, and Oliver Cromwell decided that it was necessary to slight
the castle in 1652, as it remained a surprisingly powerful fortress and a continuing threat should any fresh uprising occur.

The castle was virtually razed to the ground in the operation, although a brick building continued to be used as a prison into the 18th century. A large house was built in the

motte
hill, are now open to the public.

St Peter's Church

St Peter's Church

An earlier church on the site of

pews were added and the exterior was stuccoed under the supervision of Sir Robert Taylor. A spire designed by Taylor was added in 1776–77. A local resident, Sir William Blackstone, a lawyer and author of the Commentaries on the Laws of England, took an interest in the building of the spire and paid for the clock face visible from his house. The chancel was built in 1904, designed by Sydney Stephenson.[13] The church was declared redundant on 1 May 1971, and was vested in the Churches Conservation Trust on 26 July 1972.[14] St Peter's is the final resting place of Sir William Blackstone, who is buried in his family vault under the church.[15]

St Mary-le-More Church

St Mary-le-More's church

The Church of St Mary-le-More is located in a prominent position in the town square behind Wallingford Town Hall. The church appears in records from 1077, when the advowson belonged to St Alban's Abbey.[16] The west bell tower was originally 12th century, but its upper stages were rebuilt in a Perpendicular Gothic style[16] out of the stone from Wallingford Castle when it was demolished by Oliver Cromwell after the Civil War. The nave and aisle were built in the 13th and 14th century, and the chancel was built later. However, all were rebuilt in 1854 to designs by the Gothic Revival architect David Brandon.[9]

The west window of the north

Richard Phelps and Thomas Lester of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry.[17] Mears and Stainbank of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry re-cast the second bell of that ring, now the fourth bell of the present ring, in 1887,[17] the year of the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. In 2003 the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast a new treble and second bell,[17]
increasing the number of bells to ten.

St Leonard's Church

St Leonard’s Church

Parliamentary
forces used the church as a barracks during the Siege of Wallingford in 1656. Their occupation caused substantial damage to the building. Repair works were only completed in 1700 when it reopened.

Saxon Building. The church interior is noted for a series of four angel murals painted in 1889 by acclaimed artist George Dunlop Leslie who at the time lived on Thames Street. The Church now forms part of the Parish of St Mary-le-More
with services being held on Sundays.

Wallingford War Memorial

Wallingford War Memorial

Wallingford war memorial was designed by Edward Guy Dawber and William Honeybone,

Second World War (1939–1945) dates and names added to the base of the memorial – Total names on memorial: 36.[19]
The inscription reads:

TO THE GLORY OF GOD AND IN HONOURED AND GRATEFUL MEMORY OF THE MEN OF WALLINGFORD WHO LAID DOWN THEIR LIVES IN THE GREAT WAR 1914–1918. THEIR NAME LIVETH FOR EVERMORE

PASS NOT THIS STONE IN SORROW
NO SORROW BUT IN PRIDE
AND STRIVE TO LIVE
AS NOBLY AS THEY DIED[19]

The memorial is Grade II listed.[20]

Kinecroft

The Kinecroft was known as the Canecroft in the 13th and 14th centuries, and in the 16th and 17th centuries as Kenny Croft. It comprises an open area of about seven acres surrounded on the south and western sides by ancient

Saxon earthworks and formed part of the defensive fortifications of the town when it was an important Burh in the kingdom of Wessex. Events held in the Kinecroft include Bonfire Night, BunkFest, The Vintage Car Rally, The Wallingford Festival of Cycling
and The Circus.

Bull Croft

The Bull Croft is an open area within the town's

Cardinal Wolsey in 1525, the area was used as farming. The Bull Croft was given to the town in trust by Mr Powyss Lybbe in 1912 and is now used as a public park. Facilities on the site include a children's play area, tennis courts and football
pitches.

Town Hall

Wallingford Town Hall

Tourist Information Office, and, until the corn exchange was built in 1856, the open area under the hall was used for the town's corn market. The hall is open to all residents as a venue for private hire.[21]

Corn Exchange

The Corn Exchange

The

Queen's Award for Voluntary Service in 2020.[24]

Winterbrook house

Winterbrook House

Winterbrook House was the home of author Agatha Christie and her husband Max Mallowan from 1934 until her death in 1976 and his in 1978. It is believed[according to whom?] that she based the home of her character Miss Marple, Danemead in the village of St. Mary Mead, on Winterbrook House. The house is privately owned and is part of the Agatha Christie Trail.

Bronze statue of Agatha Christie at Wallingford

A permanent bronze memorial to Agatha Christie was placed in front of the Wallingford Museum during September- 2023, as sculpted by Ben Twiston-Davies. It depicts her in later life seated on a bench holding a book.

Flint House

Flint house

Flint House is owned by Wallingford Town Council and is the current home of the Wallingford Museum. The frame may date back to the late 15th century and the flint exterior dates to the 17th century.

Wilders New Foundry, Goldsmiths Lane

Built in 1869 by Richard Wilder the new foundry was built to support the existing foundry on Fish Street. By this time there was rapidly increasing demand for the towns of cast iron working and equipment so more capacity was essential.[25] The Building was decommissioned in 1983 and was converted into residential flats by 1984.

Wallingford Museum

Wallingford Museum

Anglo-Saxon burh
defences built in the 9th century.

Governance

UK Parliament

During the

whip removed after voting against Prime Minister Boris Johnson on 3 September 2019.[26] Vaizey had the Conservative whip restored on 29 October 2019.[27] David Johnston was selected as the Conservative candidate to represent Wantage and was duly elected as the new MP for Wantage at the 2019 general election.[28]

Local government

In 1972 the

electoral wards were created, Wallingford North and Cholsey & Wallingford South, which each elected two district councillors.[29] Since 1974 the Wallingford ward has elected a county councillor to Oxfordshire County Council.[30] The county councillor is Pete Sudbury, a member of the Green Party. Wallingford is also run by a town council consisting of 16 members. The town council provides local services including maintenance of important buildings such as Wallingford Town Hall.[31]

Geography

Climate

As with the rest of the

Centre for Ecology & Hydrology collecting data on the local climate since 1961. Temperature extremes at Wallingford vary from −21.0 °C (−5.8 °F) recorded in January 1982[32] to 35.2 °C (95.4 °F) recorded in July 2006.[33] Recent low temperatures include −17.6 °C (0.3 °F) during January 2010[34] and −17.5 °C (0.5 °F) during December 2010.[35]

Climate data for Wallingford 67m asl, 1971–2000, Extremes 1960– (Sunshine Benson 1961–2000)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 14.8
(58.6) 		17.9
(64.2) 		22.2
(72.0) 		26.8
(80.2) 		29.0
(84.2) 		33.9
(93.0) 		35.2
(95.4) 		35.1
(95.2) 		29.4
(84.9) 		25.0
(77.0) 		17.9
(64.2) 		15.2
(59.4) 		35.2
(95.4)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 7.0
(44.6) 		7.5
(45.5) 		10.2
(50.4) 		12.7
(54.9) 		16.6
(61.9) 		19.5
(67.1) 		22.3
(72.1) 		22.0
(71.6) 		18.6
(65.5) 		14.3
(57.7) 		10.0
(50.0) 		7.8
(46.0) 		14.0
(57.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 1.2
(34.2) 		1.0
(33.8) 		2.6
(36.7) 		3.8
(38.8) 		6.7
(44.1) 		9.6
(49.3) 		11.9
(53.4) 		11.8
(53.2) 		9.7
(49.5) 		6.8
(44.2) 		3.5
(38.3) 		2.1
(35.8) 		5.9
(42.6)
Record low °C (°F) −21.0
(−5.8) 		−13.2
(8.2) 		−11.1
(12.0) 		−6.6
(20.1) 		−3.3
(26.1) 		−2.2
(28.0) 		2.0
(35.6) 		1.1
(34.0) 		−2.8
(27.0) 		−5.5
(22.1) 		−9.6
(14.7) 		−17.5
(0.5) 		−21
(−6)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 56.36
(2.22) 		38.54
(1.52) 		43.76
(1.72) 		46.54
(1.83) 		50.09
(1.97) 		52.66
(2.07) 		38.44
(1.51) 		53.64
(2.11) 		56.71
(2.23) 		58.98
(2.32) 		57.91
(2.28) 		61.46
(2.42) 		615.09
(24.2)
Mean monthly sunshine hours 52.7 67.8 114.7 150.0 198.4 201.0 210.8 192.2 147.0 102.3 66.0 46.5 1,549.4
Source 1:
Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute[36]
Source 2: RMets[37]

Transport

River

The

Midlands to reach Wallingford by a shorter and more reliable route than by sea and river from the northeast. In 1799 the Oxford Canal consolidated its commercial position by buying an 80-year lease on a wharf on the Thames just above Wallingford Bridge.[39]

Chalmore Lock, a summer or low-water lock and weir, was built at Chalmore Hole, Wallingford in 1838, However, much of the time the fall was only 18 inches, and the lock was open at both ends. It fell into disrepair, and the lock was removed in 1883. The missing lock is the subject of confusion in Jerome K. Jerome's "Three Men in a Boat".[40] A ferry had operated at the site from 1787 to transport horses across the river where the towpath changed banks. As the removal of the lock and weir meant that this was the longest clear stretch of the upper river, it was an ideal site for rowing, so the Oxford University Boat Club which had long trained here built a boathouse at Chalmore in 2006. In addition to the old Wallingford Bridge, a new bridge was built at Winterbrook in 1993 to carry the A4130 bypass around Wallingford.

Rail

On 2 July 1866 the Wallingford and Watlington Railway was opened between

Bank Rate was raised to ten percent, which made it impossible for the W&WR to raise the capital for its planned continuation to Watlington. The company sold the line to the Great Western Railway in 1872, and it became known as the Wallingford Bunk. British Railways closed the line to passengers in 1959 and to goods traffic in 1965, but the track between Hithercroft Road and Cholsey continued in use to serve the now demolished maltings until 1981 when BR removed the junction at Cholsey. However, the line has been preserved as the Cholsey and Wallingford Railway.[41]
Presently, the closest regular railway station to Wallingford is in Cholsey, about three miles away.

Bus

Most bus services for the town are operated by Thames Travel. The X38 operates every hour from Wallingford to Henley-on-Thames via Nuffield and Nettlebed,[42] River Rapids, which is operated by Oxford Bus Company, comprises two routes between Oxford and Reading, both running about once an hour. Both connect Oxford and Wallingford; the X39/X40 both continue from Wallingford to Reading, the X39 via Cane End and the X40 via

Abingdon via Sutton Courtenay and Culham.[44]

Economy

Castle Street and High Street corner
Waitrose branch

Historically, Wallingford was a centre for local trading in livestock and corn as well as the general trade of other goods. This decreased after the construction of the bridge at Abingdon. The town developed as a centre for the production of iron and machinery in the 18th century; this continued until the 1980s. The brewing industry was important with two breweries and 17 maltings in the town. This link was ended with the demolition of Paul's Malt in 2001. The Lamb arcade was originally known as the Lamb Coaching Inn and in 1980 after being derelict for some years was converted into an Antiques Arcade. Champions hardware store has been serving the residents of the town since 1869.[citation needed]

In 2005,

agricultural organisation CABI
.

Sport and leisure

Wallingford Sports Park

A number of sports societies, clubs and associations are co-located at the Wallingford Sports Park.

Wallingford Town F.C. was founded in 1922 is the local football club. They currently play in the Hellenic Football League
, and their home games are played at the Wallingford Sports Centre.

Originally founded in 1967 as Cholsey RFC, the club changed its name to Wallingford Rugby Club when it moved to the Hithercroft sports ground in 1997. The club has a senior set up which includes fielding three competitive men's senior teams as a development squad and three women's teams known as the Maidens. The club is still headquartered on the Hithercroft which is now known as the Wallingford Sports Park. There are two Squash clubs in Wallingford. Wallingford Squash Club is in the town centre and the second is located at the Wallingford Sports Park. Pétanque Wallingford is based at the Park.

Rowing

Wallingford Rowing Club

Thames between locks (Benson to Cleeve Locks). It had taken place every year in peacetime since the late 1890s, and there is evidence that it existed as early as 1861.[citation needed] In 1949 the regatta committee founded the Wallingford Rowing Club, which started competing in other regattas. The regatta was developed as a conventional regatta although it still awards the Wallingford Skiff Regatta Cup. The town hosts the Wallingford Rowing Club,[49] the Oxford Brookes University Boat Club.[50] and the Oxford University Boat Club.[51]

The

Isis
, which was destroyed by fire in 1999.

Wallingford festival of cycling

The Wallingford Festival of Cycling started in 2015 with an attendance of 3000.[53] In 2018 British cycling billed the event one of the largest cycling events of the year[54] with events including both the 50 km and 110 km road sportives. In excess of 7500 were expected to attend.[55] The event in 2015 was used as the backdrop for the filming of the Midsomer Murders episode called breaking the Chain. Breaking the Chain was the third episode of the 18th series.[56]

Music festivals

Osibisa
Dancing in the Market Square, Wallingford, at BunkFest

Starting in 2002 in the Cross Keys pub, BunkFest, usually being held in the first week of September, has become the largest free multi-day festival in the UK with an attendance of over 25,000 in 2017.[57] The BunkFest folk music festival combines a broad range of folk music, dance displays, a beer festival and the local Bunk steam railway. It is a not-for-profit festival. The festival is intended to appeal to a wide audience. The main stage features light music and dancing during the day and lively folk-rock and world music acts in the evening.

Other venues around the town feature a wide variety of acts, ranging from quiet, contemplative folk artists and singer-songwriters to raucous rock bands. It attracts between thirty and fifty

Cotswold and Border Morris, Appalachian and Eastern European forms, as well as traditional Irish, Scottish and Welsh forms.[58] Rug Fest is Wallingford's summer music festival located at the Wallingford Sport Park on the Hithercroft. Founded in 2008, RugFest took two years off due to site refurbishments, returning in 2018. The 2018 festival was headlined by Scouting for Girls
.

Vintage Car Rally

Founded in 2002 the Wallingford vintage car rally takes place on the Kinecroft in mid May with a parade that includes the whole town. In 2018 the number of cars in the parade increased to over 350 with the total number of vehicles on show being just over 400.[59] The event is run for local charitable causes and raised £14,000 in 2018, which brought the cumulative total to over £100,000.[60]

Local media

Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC South and ITV Meridian. Television signals are received from the Oxford TV transmitter. [61]

Wallingford local radio stations are BBC Radio Oxford on 95.2 FM, Heart South on 102.6 FM, Jack FM on 106.4 FM and Wallingford Radio, a community based radio station that broadcasts on 107.3 FM. [62]

Local newspapers are the Herald Series [63]and Oxfordshire Guardian.

Education

St John's (a primary school), Fir Tree, (a junior school), and St Nicholas (an infants' school) are all located within the town itself, with additional primary schools at Brightwell-cum-Sotwell, Cholsey and Crowmarsh Gifford serving the surrounding areas.

Wallingford School

Academy Trust. The school provides the education provision for the Wallingford area for boys and girls between the ages of 11 and 18. The majority of pupils from both Fir Tree and St John's continue on to Wallingford School. Wallingford School also draws pupils from Crowmarsh, Brightwell-cum-Sotwell, Cholsey and Warborough primary schools and occasionally Didcot
primary schools.

Town twinning

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in England

Wallingford is

twinned
with:

Wallingford has an informal link to:

Notable people

For residents, constables and prisoners at the castle, see Wallingford Castle.

In the town:

Members of Parliament

Main article: Wallingford (UK Parliament constituency)

Wallingford used to return two Members of Parliament (MPs), cut to one in 1832 and none in 1885. Its prominent MPs, often not resident, included:

Nearby places

References

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  5. ^ Eilert Ekwall, The Concise Oxford Dictionary of English Place-names, p.493.
  6. ^ Green, John Richard (1881). The Making of England. Macmillan. p. 122.
  7. ^
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  13. ISSN 1040-6182
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Sources

External links

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Wallingford (England).
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