Walmer Castle
Walmer Castle | |
---|---|
Device Fort | |
Site information | |
Owner | English Heritage |
Open to the public | Yes |
Site history | |
Built | 1539 |
Events | English Civil War Napoleonic Wars |
Official name | Artillery castle at Walmer |
Designated | 19 October 1981 |
Reference no. | 1013381 |
National Register of Historic Parks and Gardens | |
Official name | Walmer Castle |
Designated | 1 May 1986 |
Reference no. | 1000291 |
Walmer Castle is an artillery fort originally constructed by
In the 18th century, Walmer became the official residence of the
Lord Wardens since the
History
16th century
Walmer Castle was built to defend the English coast from attack by
In 1533, Henry broke with Pope
Walmer and the adjacent castles of Deal and Sandown were constructed to protect the Downs in east Kent, an important anchorage formed by the Goodwin Sands which gave access to Deal Beach, on which enemy soldiers could easily be landed.[9] The stone castles were supported by a line of four earthwork forts, known as the Great Turf, the Little Turf Bulwark, the Great White Bulwark of Clay and the Walmer Bulwark, and a 2.5-mile-long (4.0 km) defensive ditch and bank.[10] Collectively the castles became known as the "castles of the Downs" and cost the Crown a total of £27,092 to build.[11][a]
Walmer was built between April 1539 and autumn 1540, by a team including Richard Benese as the surveyor, William Clement as the master carpenter, and Christopher Dickenson as the master mason.
17th century
Walmer Castle was left to decline in the early 17th century, with little money being made available for repairs and the garrison receiving low pay, leading some members to reside in nearby Deal rather the fort itself, and to take on additional employment to supplement their wages.[16] Walmer Castle was seized by Parliamentary forces at the start of the first English Civil War between the supporters of King Charles I and Parliament, but did not play a significant role in the remainder of the initial conflict.[17] After the few years of unsteady peace after 1645, the Second Civil War broke out in 1648, this time with Charles' Royalist supporters joined by Scottish allies. The Parliamentary navy was based in the Downs, protected by Walmer and the other Henrician castles, but by May a Royalist insurrection was under way across Kent.[18]
Vice-Admiral William Batten had been forced to resign from his post as Commander of the Fleet the previous year by Parliamentary officials, and he now encouraged the fleet to join the Royalist faction.[19] Sir Henry Palmer, a former sailor, accompanied by other members of the Kentish gentry, also called on the fleet to revolt, taking advantage of the many fellow Kentish men in the crews.[20] Walmer and Deal Castle declared for the King, shortly after the garrisons at Sandown.[21] With both the coastal fortresses and the navy now under Royalist control, Parliament feared that foreign forces might be landed along the coast or aid sent to the Scots.[22]
Parliament defeated the wider insurgency at the Battle of Maidstone at the start of June, and then sent a force under the command of Colonel Nathaniel Rich to deal with Walmer and the other castles along the Downs.[23] Walmer Castle was the first to be besieged, and surrendered on 12 July.[24] Deal was attacked in late July, and in August artillery assaults began on Sandown as well, leading to the surrender of both remaining fortifications.[25] Walmer was badly damaged during the conflict and it was estimated by Rich, responsible for carrying out the repairs, that the work would cost at least £500.[26][a]
In 1649, Parliament ordered new supplies of ammunition and powder be sent to Walmer and the other castles of the Downs, which were brought back into good order.
18th–19th centuries
1700–1828
In the 18th century, Walmer Castle became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.[26] The Lord Warden was originally a medieval title linked to five key ports along the coast of England; the position's prominence had faded, but it still retained important judicial and military functions.[30] When Lionel Sackville, the Duke of Dorset, was appointed to the post in 1708 he decided that the existing residence in Dover Castle was unsatisfactory, probably because of the semi-ruinous state of the castle, and moved into Walmer Castle instead.[31]
The Duke occupied the post of Lord Warden until 1765, save for two periods when it was filled by
The
With the outbreak of the French Revolutionary Wars, Pitt became energetically involved in the protection of the ports along the coast, entertaining the local garrison commanders, naval captains and the local gentry at Walmer on a regular basis.[38] After Pitt resigned as Prime Minister in 1801, fears remained of a French invasion and he formed a volunteer cavalry unit at Walmer Castle, where he lived with his new officers.[39] He also formed a unit of bombardier infantry and a fleet of 35 fishing boats called luggers, which he armed with 12-pound (5.4 kg) or 18-pound (8.2 kg) guns, reviewing them from the castle.[40] Stanhope remarked on the constant drilling of army units around the castle during her time there.[41]
Robert Jenkinson, the Earl of Liverpool, took possession of Walmer Castle following the death of Pitt in 1806.[32] Liverpool was a favourite of King George's, and his appointment as Lord Warden was again intended to provide a valuable income and a country retreat.[42] As Prime Minister, Liverpool used Walmer as a personal retreat and as a location for private political discussions with selected guests.[43]
1829–99
On Lord Liverpool's death, Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington and the current Prime Minister, asked King George IV for the post of Lord Warden, primarily because he was seeking the use of Walmer Castle.[44] Wellington took up post in 1829 and considered Walmer to be "the most charming marine residence".[45] He made use of the castle each autumn, entertaining extensively there but living and sleeping in a single room.[46] He was visited there twice by Victoria, once when she was still a princess and later as queen.[47] Wellington let the gardens fall into a poor condition.[48] Wellington died in his room at Walmer on 14 September 1852.[49] His embalmed body was kept in his room to lie in state until 10 November,[50] and when the room was opened for public visitors during the final two days, around 9,000 attended.[51] The Duke's body was finally removed to London via Deal, complete with a military escort.[52]
The politician Granville Leveson-Gower, 2nd Earl Granville was offered the post of Lord Warden by the new Prime Minister, John Russell in 1865.[54] Russell noted that the role would be expensive for Granville to perform — the salary had been abolished in 1828 — but that it would provide him with a property by the sea, which Granville had been seeking to acquire for a while.[55] Granville took over Walmer in 1865. He expanded the gardens, built new kennels for a hunting pack and spent many years reassembling the furniture and other objects that Pitt and Wellington had used at the castle.[56] He received large numbers of visitors, many of whom stopped off while travelling to or from France.[57] The diplomat Baron de Malortie visited Granville and his family at Walmer, and later praised the homely atmosphere in the castle. He described how, after breakfast, the family and guests would all gather in the drawing room, which was the only large room in the house, and Granville would answer government correspondence amid the daily life of the rest of the household.[58]
The businessman and politician William Smith was appointed Lord Warden in 1891, but died in Walmer Castle during his first visit here in October of that year.[59] Smith had proposed that the historical artefacts in the castle should be protected from being removed by later Lord Wardens and suggested that government pass an Indenture of Heirlooms Bill.[59] The government carried out the plan after Smith's death, protecting almost 70 pieces of furniture and 50 artworks at the castle and forbidding them being moved from the castle without the Secretary of State for War's approval.[60] Robert Gascoyne-Cecil, the Marquess of Salisbury, became the next Lord Warden; with adequate legal protection now in place, the 3rd Duke of Wellington suggested returning his grandfather's possessions to the castle, but Lady Salisbury declined the offer.[61]
20th–21st centuries
By 1904 the War Office had concluded that Walmer had no remaining military value and agreed to transfer the castle to the Office of Works, who accepted it on the condition that they were paid £2,400 in order to carry out repairs.[62][c] The Office's survey noted that "the lower floor ... is very inconvenient, dark and not conducive to health while the women servants have to sleep in a sort of dormitory in the slopes of the roof... The principal floor is, generally speaking, badly arranged and badly lighted and the Dining Room is very small"; the report suggested that it would be best to demolish the building and rebuild it.[63]
Proposals were made to find the next Lord Warden,
Lygon had sexual relations with men, which was illegal in England during this period.[70] Rumours spread about the parties that he had held at Walmer Castle after the war, where, according to the historian Richard Davenport-Hines, he had "behaved indiscreetly with young men".[71] The King was informed about his lifestyle and Lygon fled the country in 1931, resigning the appointment of Lord Warden the following year.[70]
Lygon's successor, the politician
Sir
In the 21st century, the property is managed by English Heritage, attracting 152,391 visitors in 2019.[79] English Heritage carried out a £674,000 programme of improvements to the castle in 2015 intended to improve the visitor experience.[80] The castle is protected under UK law as a scheduled monument, while the surrounding gardens are protected with a grade II listing.[81]
Architecture
Castle
Walmer Castle retains most of its original 16th-century structure, with a tall
The castle had three tiers of
From the 18th century onwards, the interior of the castle was converted to provide accommodation for the Lord Wardens, almost all of which is now open to visitors. The castle is still entered through the ground floor of the gatehouse in the western bastion, which contains the original porter's lodge.[87] In the middle of the castle is the keep, which originally housed the Servants' Hall and now a set of tea rooms.[87] In the southern bastion is a set of rooms which are reached through the Hall Room, originally built as gunners' lodgings in the 18th century and converted into the entrance hall to the castle in the 1930s.[88] On the far side of the bastion are the Sackville and Willingdon Rooms, built in the 18th century; the Willingdon Room is now used as a museum for objects relating to William Pitt.[89] The Lucas Room has been redecorated in a mid-19th century style and is used to present various items of Wellington memorabilia.[90] The north and east bastions are filled in, providing solid foundations for the gun platforms above.[87]
The second floor contains the Lord Warden's private apartments in the west bastion and the western half of the keep.[87] In the southern bastion is the Duke of Wellington's Room and the Lucas Room, originally part of an apartment of rooms selected by William Pitt for his use, as they formed the warmest part of the castle.[45] The corridor running across the castle through the keep was built by Pitt to link the north and south halves of the castle.[91]
The Prince Consort's and Queen Victoria's rooms in the keep are named after their use during the royal visit of 1842, although their decoration today dates from the interwar period.[92] The Dining Room, Drawing Room and Ante Room, which overlook the northern bastion, date from the 1730s, when the Duke of Dorset constructed them to form a private set of chambers.[93] These rooms feature a range of pink and purple window glass, which tradition says was installed by the Earl of Liverpool to protect his wife's eyesight; recent analysis shows that some of the pink-tinted glass dates from the 1730s, and discoloured naturally over time, while other panes were intentionally purchased around 1800 in these hues, but probably as status symbols and not for any medical purpose.[94]
Gardens
The gardens of Walmer Castle date mainly from the 1790s and 1860s and comprise around 32 acres (13 ha) of land, split evenly between formal ornamental gardens and
The castle is approached through the castle meadow, an area of open parkland, lined with Holm oaks planted in the 1860s, and is surrounded by the dry moat, now a garden dating from at least the 1850s and planted with trees and shrubs.[97] Adjacent to the castle are the Queen Mother's Garden and the kitchen garden and glasshouses. The Queen Mother's Garden was built by English Heritage as a 95th birthday gift for the then Lord Warden in 1997, the site having been originally part of the wider kitchen gardens, before being turned into a tennis court in the 1920s.[97] Designed by Penelope Hobhouse, the garden incorporates a 92-foot-long (28 m) pool, a viewing mound and a classical pavilion.[97] The two glasshouses have been restored, functioning as cold greenhouses, while the remainder of the kitchen garden is planted with a mixture of vegetables, fruit trees and flowers.[98]
The 262-foot-long (80 m) Broadwalk is the main axis of the gardens and separates the glasshouses from the 328-foot-long (100 m) Oval Lawn, planted with
See also
Notes
- ^ a b c d Comparing early modern costs and prices with those of the modern period is challenging. £27,092 in 1539 could be equivalent to between £15.3 million and £6,960 million in 2014, depending on the price comparison used, and £174 to between £98,000 and £44 million. For comparison, the total royal expenditure on all the Device Forts across England between 1539–47 came to £376,500, with St Mawes, for example, costing £5,018, and Sandgate £5,584. £500 in 1648 could be equivalent to between £60,300 and £16.7 million.[12]
- ^ Comparing 18th century costs and prices with those of the modern period depends on the measure used. £3,000 in 1792 could be equivalent to between £326,000 and £23.4 million in 2014, depending on the price comparison used.[35]
- ^ The equivalent value of early 20th century money in the modern period depends on the measure used. £2,400 in 1903 could be equivalent to between £241,000 and £2.3 million in 2014, depending on the price comparison used.[35]
References
- ^ Thompson 1987, p. 111; Hale 1983, p. 63
- ^ King 1991, pp. 176–177
- ^ Morley 1976, p. 7
- ^ Hale 1983, p. 63; Harrington 2007, p. 5
- ^ Morley 1976, p. 7; Hale 1983, pp. 63–64
- ^ Hale 1983, p. 66; Harrington 2007, p. 6
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 11; Walton 2010, p. 70
- ^ Saunders 1963, p. 4
- ^ King 1991, p. 178; Harrington 2007, p. 16
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 16
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 8
- ^ Biddle et al. 2001, p. 12; Lawrence H. Officer; Samuel H. Williamson (2014), "Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present", MeasuringWorth, retrieved 29 May 2015
{{cite web}}
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- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 162
- ^ a b Coad 2008, p. 28
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 30
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 183
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 50; Kennedy 1962, pp. 251–252
- ^ Kennedy 1962, pp. 248–250; Harrington 2007, p. 50
- ^ Ashton 1994, p. 440
- ^ Kennedy 1962, pp. 251–252
- ^ Ashton 1994, pp. 439–440
- ^ Ashton 1994, p. 440; Harrington 2007, p. 51
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 51
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 51; Ashton 1994, p. 442
- ^ a b c d Coad 2008, p. 31
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 210; Coad 2008, p. 31
- ^ Elvin 1890, pp. 211–213
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 224
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 29; Elvin 1890, pp. 236–237
- ^ Coad 2008, pp. 30–31
- ^ a b c d e Coad 2008, p. 29
- ^ Coad 2008, pp. 29, 31–32
- ^ Coad 2008, pp. 29, 32; Shepherd 2008, p. 8
- ^ a b Lawrence H. Officer; Samuel H. Williamson (2014), "Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present", MeasuringWorth, retrieved 29 May 2015
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: postscript (link) - ^ Coad 2008, pp. 29, 32; Shepherd 2008, pp. 8, 10
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 30; Hinze 2008, pp. 16–17
- ^ Elvin 1890, pp. 246–247
- ^ Elvin 1890, pp. 248–249
- ^ Elvin 1890, pp. 248–250
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 250; Hinze 2008, p. 22
- ^ Brock 2014, p. 14
- ^ Brock 2014, p. 14; Muir 2015, p. 332
- ^ Muir 2015, p. 332
- ^ a b Shepherd 2008, p. 5
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 32; Shepherd 2008, p. 5
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 32
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 257
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 32; Elvin 1890, p. 275
- ISBN 0-246-13815-7.
- ^ Elvin 1890, pp. 275–276
- ^ Elvin 1890, p. 276
- ^ a b Shepherd 2008, p. 5; Maxwell 1893, pp. 326–327
- ^ Fitzmaurice 1905a, p. 489
- ^ Fitzmaurice 1905a, p. 489; Coad 2008, p. 29
- ^ Maxwell 1893, p. 327; Coad 2008, p. 29; Fitzmaurice 1905a, p. 490
- ^ Fitzmaurice 1905b, pp. 130–131
- ^ Fitzmaurice 1905b, pp. 129–130
- ^ a b Shepherd 2008, p. 13
- ^ Shepherd 2008, pp. 5, 13; Maxwell 1893, p. 328
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 6; Maxwell 1893, pp. 327–328; Coad 2008, p. 29
- ^ Fry 2014, pp. 11–12, 15
- ^ a b Fry 2014, p. 15
- ^ Fry 2014, pp. 15–16
- ^ a b Coad 2008, p. 33
- ^ Coad 2008, pp. 34–35; Mulvagh 2008, p. 355
- ^ Mulvagh 2008, p. 355
- ^ Coad 2008, p. 35; Jenkins 2002, p. 295; Mulvagh 2008, p. 320
- ^ Brock & Brock 2014, pp. 66, 100
- ^ a b Richard Davenport-Hines (2011), "Lygon, William, seventh Earl Beauchamp (1872–1938)" (online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Mulvagh 2008, p. 372; Richard Davenport-Hines (2011), "Lygon, William, seventh Earl Beauchamp (1872–1938)" (online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ A. Lentin (2011), "Isaacs, Rufus Daniel, first marquess of Reading (1860–1935)" (online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 6
- ^ Churchill 1948, p. 737
- ^ Vickers 2006, p. 416; A. W. Martin (2011), "Menzies, Sir Robert Gordon (1894–1978)" (online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Vickers 2006, p. 416
- ^ Vickers 2006, pp. 416–417
- ^ "Tributes paid to Admiral The Lord Boyce – a great leader and champion of submariners". Royal Navy. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
- ^ "ALVA - Association of Leading Visitor Attractions". www.alva.org.uk. Retrieved 12 November 2020.
- ^ Eleanor Perkins (26 January 2015), "Walmer Castle Will Undergo Improvements to Help Cement its Place in History", Kent Online, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Harrington 2007, p. 21; Rutton 1898, p. 26; Saunders 1989, p. 38
- ^ Saunders 1989, p. 38
- ^ Rutton 1898, p. 26
- ^ Hale 1983, p. 73
- ^ a b Harrington 2007, p. 21; Saunders 1989, p. 38
- ^ a b c d Coad 2008, p. 37
- ^ Shepherd 2008, pp. 2–3; Coad 2008, p. 37
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 3
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 4
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 8
- ^ Shepherd 2008, pp. 10–12
- ^ Shepherd 2008, p. 14
- ^ Dungworth & Girbal 2011, pp. 13–14, 44–45
- ^ Hinze 2008, pp. 16–17; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Hinze 2008, pp. 16–17
- ^ a b c Hinze 2008, pp. 18, 22; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Hinze 2008, p. 22; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Hinze 2008, p. 19; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ "Walmer Castle's Broadwalk", English Heritage, retrieved 8 August 2015
- ^ Hinze 2008, p. 20
- ^ Hinze 2008, p. 20; "List Entry Summary", Historic England, retrieved 31 July 2015
- ^ Hinze 2008, p. 21
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