Wells, Somerset

Coordinates: 51°12′34″N 02°38′42″W / 51.20944°N 2.64500°W / 51.20944; -2.64500
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"Wells, England" redirects here. For the town in Norfolk, see Wells-next-the-Sea.

Wells
Avon and Somerset
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UK
England
Somerset
51°12′34″N 02°38′42″W / 51.20944°N 2.64500°W / 51.20944; -2.64500

Wells (

urban agglomeration
.

Wells takes its name from three

since 1964
the city has been without a railway link.

The cathedral and the associated religious and medieval architectural history provide much of the employment. The city has a variety of sporting and cultural activities and houses several schools including

coeducational comprehensive school that was founded in 1641, and the private Wells Cathedral School, which was founded possibly as early as 909 and is one of the five established musical schools for school-age children in the United Kingdom. Wells's historic architecture has led to the city being used as a shooting location for numerous films and television programmes.[8]

History

Pool of water in an area of trees and shrubs. In the background is the cathedral.
One of the three wells which give the city its name; two are located in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace (as shown) and one in the Market Place.

The city was a Roman settlement that became an important centre under the Anglo-Saxons when King Ine of Wessex founded a minster church in 704.[9] Two hundred years later, in 909, it became the seat of the newly formed bishopric of Wells; but in 1090, the bishop's seat was removed to Bath. The move caused severe arguments between the canons of Wells and the monks of Bath until 1245 when the bishopric was renamed the Diocese of Bath and Wells, to be elected by both religious houses. With the construction of the current cathedral and the bishop's palace in the first half of the 13th century, under the direction of Bishop Reginald and later Bishop Jocelin, a native of the city, Wells became the principal seat of the diocese.

The 8th-century port at

salt in exchange.[10] Wells had been a centre for cloth making; however, in the 16th and 17th centuries this diminished, but the city retained its important market focus.[11] Wells in the 19th century had the largest cheese market in the west of England.[12]

Wells was listed in the Domesday Book of 1086 as Welle, from the Old English wiells,[13] not as a town but as four manors with a population of 132, which implies a population of 500–600.[14] Earlier names for the settlement have been identified which include Fontanetum,[15] in a charter of 725 granted by King Ina to Glastonbury and Fontanensis Ecclesia.[15] "Tidesput" or "Tithesput furlang" relates to the area east of the bishop's garden in 1245.[16] Wells was part of, and gave its name to, the hundred of Wells Forum.

Wells had been granted charters to hold markets by

civil parish;[19][20] on that date major local government reorganisation came into effect, which involved the abolition of the municipal borough of Wells.[21]

Anne of Denmark, the wife of King James came to Wells on 20 August 1613. She was entertained by a pageant performed by the town's trades and crafts. The blacksmiths presented Vulcan's forge. The butchers made a tableau of "old virgins", with their attires made of cow tails and necklaces made of cow's horns, who were drawn in a chariot by men and boys dressed in ox skins. The mayor, William Bull, held a dinner for members of the queen's household including her four maids of honour.[22] The Venetian ambassador Antonio Foscarini recorded her delight.[23]

During the English Civil War (1642–1651), at what became known as the "Siege of Wells", the city found itself surrounded by Parliamentarian guns on the Bristol, Glastonbury and Shepton Mallet sides. Col. William Strode had 2,000 men and 150 horse. The Royalists evacuated the city. Parliamentarian troops then used the cathedral to stable their horses and damaged much of the ornate sculpture by using it for firing practice.[24]

William Penn stayed in Wells shortly before leaving for America (1682), spending a night at The Crown Inn. Here he was briefly arrested for addressing a large crowd in the market place, but released on the intervention of the Bishop of Bath and Wells.[25] During the Monmouth Rebellion (1685) the rebel army attacked the cathedral in an outburst against the established church and damaged the west front. Lead from the roof was used to make bullets, windows were broken, the organ smashed and horses stabled in the nave.[26] Wells was the final location of the Bloody Assizes on 23 September 1685. In a makeshift court lasting only one day, over 500 men were tried and the majority sentenced to death.[27]

Street scene. Terraces of old red brick houses on either side of the road. At the far end is a building with arches and small tower. Beyond can be seen the cathedral tower.
Vicars' Close facing the cathedral

Wells first station,

Dover. It was withdrawn from service in 1964, and rescued from a scrapyard in 1971, and as August 2021 was operational on the East Lancashire Railway.[30]

During

Western Desert Campaign, and later German prisoners after the Battle of Normandy. Penleigh Camp on the Wookey Hole Road was a German working camp.[31]

Governance

Arms of Wells City Council
Shield
Argent in base a Mount Vert thereon an Ash Tree proper between three Wells Gules; the Shield ensigned by a Mural Crown Or.
MottoHoc Fonte Derivata Copia (The Fullness That Springs From This Well)
Granted 23 August 1951 [32]
Street scene with shops on either side of the street. In the centre stands an old stone monument. In the background are an old stone gatehouse and behind it the towers of the cathedral.
The Market Place is the site of one of the city's ancient wells (note the water flowing in the gully, down High Street); the Bishop's Eye gatehouse (to the Bishop's Palace) is at the far end; two of Wells Cathedral's towers can be seen rising behind the buildings.

Wells City Council is a

parish council, with a membership of sixteen councillors, elected from three parish wards. They are (with the number of parish councillors each elects, in brackets): Central (four), St. Thomas' (six) and St. Cuthbert's (six).[33][34]

The

Town Crier.[39]

The City Council has responsibility for local issues, including setting an annual precept (local rate) to cover the council's operating costs and producing annual accounts for public scrutiny. They also evaluate local planning applications and work with the local police, district council officers, and

CCTV, an alcohol ban and regulating street trading permissions including the two funfairs held in the Market Place in May and November each year and the Wells in Bloom competition.[34] The city council's role also includes initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of city facilities, as well as consulting with the district council on the maintenance, repair, and improvement of highways, drainage, footpaths, public transport, and street cleaning. They are involved in the management of the Community Sports Development Centre at the Blue School, the skateboard park and allotments in the grounds of the Bishop's Palace, Burcott Road and Barnes Close. Conservation matters (including trees and listed buildings) and environmental issues are also the responsibility of the council.[34]

Symmetrical two-storey building in classical style with nine bays.
Wells Town Hall

Assize court last sat here in October 1970.[40]

All other local government services are provided by

Somerset County Council.[43] Wells is part of the UK Parliament constituency of Wells. Since 2015 the Member of Parliament for Wells is James Heappey
of the Conservatives.

The Wells city arms show an

water wells, crested with a gold mural crown, with the Latin motto Hoc fonte derivata copia (translated: "the fullness that springs from this well").[44]

The council formalised twinning links with Paray-le-Monial, France, and Bad Dürkheim, Germany in 1979, then added Fontanellato, Italy in 1983; the Wells Twinning Association and the Mayor of Wells organise the twinning activities.[45]

HMS Somerset, Mary Bignal-Rand, Danny Nightingale, The Rifles and the late Harry Patch have the Freedom of the City.[46][47][48] The Somerset Light Infantry received the freedom of the City of Wells following their return from Cyprus in 1956.[49]

City status

Map of Wells showing city/parish border, and urban area.
  City/parish border
  Countryside
  Urban area
See also: List of smallest cities in the United Kingdom

As the seat of an ancient cathedral and diocese, Wells is historically regarded as a city.[50] City status was most recently confirmed by Queen Elizabeth II by letters patent dated 1 April 1974, which granted city status specifically to the civil parish.[19] As the designation is typically awarded to a local council area,[51] this administrative area is then considered to be the formal boundary of the city, including its urban and rural extents. Wells, due to its urban area and wider parish sizes, is near-smallest city on several measures based on 2011 statistics:[52]

  • Its city council boundary area, surrounded wholly by countryside makes Wells the smallest free-standing city in the UK (2.11 sq mi)[53] - the City of London is smaller (1.12)[54] but is part of a much larger urban area (Greater London - 671 sq mi)[55]
  • 2nd smallest in England and UK by city council boundary area (2.11 sq mi) behind the City of London (1.12)
  • 2nd smallest in England only by population and urban area (10,536 residents, 1.35 sq mi)[56] behind the City of London (8,072, 1.12)
  • 4th smallest in the UK by population and urban area behind St Davids (1,841 residents, 0.23 sq mi),[57] St Asaph (3,355, 0.50)[58] and the City of London (8,072, 1.12).

Geography

Wells lies at the foot of the southern escarpment of the

carboniferous limestone, which is quarried at several nearby sites. In the 1960s, the tallest mast in the region, the Mendip UHF television transmitter, was installed on Pen Hill above Wells,[59]
approximately 2 mi (3.2 km) from the centre of the city.

Keward Brook

Streams passing through

Coxley.[63]

Along with the rest of

temperate climate which is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The annual mean temperature is about 10 °C (50 °F) with seasonal and diurnal variations, but due to the modifying effect of the sea, the range is less than in most other parts of the United Kingdom. January is the coldest month with mean minimum temperatures between 1 °C (34 °F) and 2 °C (36 °F). July and August are the warmest months in the region with mean daily maxima around 21 °C (70 °F). In general, December is the dullest month and June the sunniest. The south west of England enjoys a favoured location, particularly in summer, when the Azores High extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK.[64]

snowfall is typical. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest. The predominant wind direction is from the south west.[64]

The civil parish of Wells is entirely surrounded by the parish of St Cuthbert Out.

Looking west from the tower of the cathedral

Demography

The population of the civil parish, recorded in the

2011 census, was 10,536.[3] Of this number 97.5% are ethnically White (with the more specific White British category recorded at 93.5%)[65] and 66.5% described themselves as Christian.[66] The mean average age in 2011 was 41.9 years (the median age being 43).[67] The population recorded for the Wells civil parish in the 2001 census was 10,406.[68]

Economy

The Market Place

Following construction of the A39/A371 bypass, the centre of the city has returned to being that of a quiet market town. It has all the modern conveniences plus shops, hotels and restaurants.[69] Wells is a popular tourist destination, due to its historical sites,[70] its proximity to Bath, Stonehenge and Glastonbury and its closeness to the Somerset coast. Also nearby are Wookey Hole Caves, the Mendip Hills and the Somerset Levels. Somerset cheese, including Cheddar, is made locally. Wells is part of the Wells and Shepton Mallet travel to work area which also includes Glastonbury, Cheddar and surrounding areas.[71]

The historic part of the city has often been used for filming both documentaries and many period films and television series, including some with very large productions.[72] Recent examples (2014 to 2017) include filming for Series 2 of Poldark, Dunkirk, Another Mother's Son, Broadchurch, The Levelling, Mum's List, and The White Princess.[73] In addition to Wells Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, Wells is particularly popular among productions, with filming at the latter conducted (in 2015–2016) for The Huntsman: Winter's War, Galavant, Terry and Mason's The Great British Food Trip, Escape to the Country, and Holiday of My Lifetime.[74]

Transport

Wells bus station

Wells is situated at the junction of three numbered routes. The

A371 goes north-west to Cheddar and Weston-super-Mare, and east to Shepton Mallet. The B3139 goes west to Highbridge, and north-east to Radstock and Trowbridge. The nearest motorway connections are at junction 23 on the M5 via the A39 and at junction 19 of the M4 via the A39, A37 and M32.[75]

Wells is served by First West of England bus services to Bristol and Bristol Temple Meads station, Bath, Frome, Shepton Mallet, Yeovil, Street and Weston-super-Mare, as well as providing some local service. It is served by Berrys Coaches daily Superfast service to and from London.[76] The bus station is in Princes Road. The Mendip Way and Monarch's Way long-distance footpaths pass through the city, as does National Cycle Route 3.[77]

Railways

Wells had two stations which were closed by the

Beeching Axe in the 1960s: Wells (Tucker Street) railway station and Wells (Priory Road) railway station. The nearest railway line today is the East Somerset Railway
.

The nearest station today for the national rail network is Bristol Temple Meads which is easily accessible via the 376 bus route.

Wells stations on the Railway Clearing House map.

Education

Red brick building with small tower to the left of the arched doorway and bay window to the right.
The Music School of Wells Cathedral School

Specialist science college status. It has 1,641 students aged 11–18 of both sexes and all ability levels.[79]

Britain. The school teaches over 700 pupils between the ages of 3 and 18. The school's boarding houses line the northern parts of the city and the music school retains close links with Wells Cathedral.[80]
The primary schools in Wells are Stoberry Park School, St Cuthbert's Church of England Infants School, St Cuthbert's Church of England Junior School and St Joseph and St Teresa Catholic Primary School.

Culture

Wells and Mendip Museum includes many historical artefacts from the city and surrounding Mendip Hills.[81] Wells is part of the West Country Carnival circuit.

Wells Film Centre shows current releases and, in conjunction with the Wells Film Society shows less well known and historical films.

Flemish bond brickwork with Art Deco features. It is a Grade II listed building,[83] and was on the Buildings at Risk Register until its restoration which included the restoration and repair of the stained glass façade.[84] Wells Little Theatre is operated by a voluntary society which started in 1902. In 1969 they took over the old boy's building of Wells Blue School, where they put on a variety of operatic and other productions.[85]

Register of Historic Parks and Gardens of special historic interest in England.[86]

Local media

Television programmes and local news is provided by BBC West and ITV West Country from the Mendip TV transmitter. [87]

Local radio stations are BBC Radio Somerset on 95.5 FM, Heart West on 102.6 FM and Greatest Hits Radio South West on 107.7 FM.

The city is served by these local newspapers: Wells Voice,

Somerset Live
.

Religious sites

Decorated and buttressed yellow stone tower.
St.Cuthbert Parish Church, Wells

A walled precinct, the Liberty of St Andrew, encloses the twelfth century Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, Vicar's Close and the residences of the clergy who serve the cathedral. Entrances include the Penniless Porch,[89] The Bishop's Eye[90] and Brown's Gatehouse[91] which were all built around 1450.

The

Church of St Cuthbert has a Somerset stone tower and a carved roof. Originally an Early English building (13th century), it was much altered in the Perpendicular period.[20] The nave's coloured ceiling was repainted in 1963 at the instigation of the then Vicar's wife, Mrs Barnett.[92][93] Until 1561 the church had a central tower which either collapsed or was removed, and has been replaced with the current tower over the west door.[94] Bells were cast for the tower by Roger Purdy.[95]

The

polychromatic stone Church of St Thomas was built during 1856 and 1857 and extended by Samuel Sanders Teulon in 1864, commemorating the work of Richard Jenkyns the Dean of Wells who had cared for the poor in the east of the city.[96][97]

Wells Vineyard Church is an Evangelical Church formed in 2003.[98]

Interior of Wells Cathedral, showing inverted arches inserted in 1338 to strengthen the building

Wells Cathedral

Main article: Wells Cathedral

The cathedral is the seat of the Church of England Diocese of Bath and Wells. Wells has been an ecclesiastical city of importance since at least the early 8th century. Parts of the building date back to the tenth century, and it is a grade I listed building.[99] It is known for its fine fan vaulted ceilings, Lady Chapel and windows, and the scissor arches which support the central tower. The west front is said to be the finest collection of statuary in Europe,[100] retaining almost 300 of its original medieval statues,[101] carved from the cathedral's warm, yellow Doulting stone.[102] The Chapter House, at the top of a flight of stone stairs, leading out from the north transept is an octagonal building with a fan-vaulted ceiling.[103] It is here that the business of running the cathedral is still conducted by the members of the Chapter, the cathedral's ruling body. Wells Cathedral clock is famous for its 24-hour astronomical dial and set of jousting knights that perform every quarter-hour. The cathedral has the heaviest ring of ten bells in the world. The tenor bell weighs just over 56 CWT (6,272 lb, 2,844 kg).[104]

The Vicars' Close is the oldest residential street in Europe.[20] The Close is tapered by 10 ft (3.0 m) to make it look longer when viewed from the bottom. When viewed from the top, however, it looks shorter.[105][106][107][108][109][110] The Old Deanery dates from the 12th century,[111][112][113] and St John's Priory from the 14th.[114] The street is owned by Wells Cathedral.

The Bishop's Palace

Main article:
mute swans ring a bell for food.[116] The Bishop's Barn was built in the 15th century.[117]

Sport

The gates of Rowdens Road Cricket Ground dedicated to Mary Bignal-Rand

The city has two football clubs, one being

South Horrington.[119] Wells Wanderers Cricket Club are based in Meare.[120] Rowdens Road Cricket Ground was a first-class
venue. No longer a cricket ground, it is now occupied in part by Wells FC.

Mid-Somerset

Astroturf pitches at the Blue School,[121] where several other sports clubs are based.[122] Wells Leisure Centre has a 25 m (82 ft) swimming pool, gymnasium, sports hall, sauna, steam room, relaxation area and solarium.[123] The 18-hole Wells Golf Club is on the outskirts of the city and also has a 24-bay driving range with optional grass tees.[124]

In popular culture

Night scene of floodlight stone walls adjoining still water.
The Bishop's Palace gatehouse and drawbridge

Elizabeth Goudge used Wells as a basis for the fictional cathedral city of Torminster, in her book A City of Bells (1936), and its two sequels Sister of the Angels (1939) and Henrietta's House (1942: The Blue Hills, USA title).[125]

Wells has been used as the setting for several films including:

The Libertine (2004),[129] The Golden Age (2007),[129] and Hot Fuzz (2007, as Sandford).[130] The cathedral interior stood in for Southwark Cathedral during filming for the Doctor Who episode "The Lazarus Experiment",[129] and was also used as an interior location in the film Jack the Giant Slayer
(2013), and in 2017 for the film Hellboy. In 2017 the market square and town hall was used for production of the BBC series Poldark.

Notable people

See also:
List of Bishops of Bath and Wells and precursor offices
Ornate stone buildings. 2 archways beneath towers. In the foreground is a lamp stand with flowers.
Penniless Porch and the Bishop's Eye

Arms

Coat of arms of Wells, Somerset
Coronet
A mural crown Or.
Escutcheon
Argent in base a mount Vert thereon an ash tree Proper between three wells Gules.[151]
Motto
Hoc Fonte Derivata Copia (The Fullness That Springs From This Well).

See also

References

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