Zoot suit
A zoot suit (occasionally spelled zuit suit
The zoot suit originated in African American comedy shows in the 1920s. Comedians such as
In the so-called
History
Hepcats
The suits were first associated with African-Americans in communities such as
"A Zoot Suit (For My Sunday Gal)" was a 1942 song written by L. Wolfe Gilbert and Bob O'Brien.[21] Jazz bandleader Cab Calloway frequently wore zoot suits on stage, including some with exaggerated details, such as extremely wide shoulders or overly draped jackets.[22] He wore one in the 1943 film Stormy Weather. In his dictionary, Cab Calloway's Cat-ologue: A "Hepster's" Dictionary (1938), he called the zoot suit "the ultimate in clothes. The only totally and truly American civilian suit."[23]
Pachucos and Pachucas
In the early 1940s, Pachucos were associated with violence and criminal behavior by the American media, which fueled anti-Mexican sentiment and especially negative views of the zoot suit style in Los Angeles.[28] Pachucas, some of whom also wore the zoot suit, often with some modifications and additional accessories like dark lipstick, were seen as threatening to ideas of family stability and racial uplift, often shunned by their communities and the wider public.[29] The zoot suits became framed as unpatriotic, referring to the excessiveness of cloth during wartime.[7][30] In 1942, police from across Los Angeles arrested 600 Mexican Americans in the Sleepy Lagoon murder case, which involved the murder of one man, José Gallardo Díaz, at a party.[7] Almost all of those arrested as allegedly potential suspects were wearing zoot suits.[7]
Media coverage before and after the case sensationalized and further fanned the flames of hostile anti-Mexican sentiments in the city and abroad.[7] This made some Mexican Americans hesitant to wear the zoot suit, since they did not want to be viewed as criminals simply for their style of dress.[8] Some Pachucos became affiliated with early gangs in Los Angeles and embraced their presumed-to-be criminal status with the zoot suit.[8] Others wore the zoot suit, but refused to refer to themselves as 'zoot suiters.'[8] Mexican Americans who rejected Pachucos and zoot suit attire became known as 'squares' who were said to believe in assimilation and racial uplift theory.[8]
This tension exploded in 1943 in a series of anti-Mexican riots in Los Angeles that became termed the Zoot Suit Riots.[28] For ten days, white U.S. servicemen cruised Mexican American neighborhoods searching for zoot suiters to attack.[7] In some cases, youth as young as twelve were attacked and dragged out of establishments.[7] Filipinos and Black zoot suiters were also targeted, such as a Black man who had his eye gouged out with a knife by "a crowd of whites."[8] After being attacked, Mexican and Black zoot suiters rioted against white U.S. servicemen.[8] On the fifth day of the riots, the zoot suiters repelled attackers in a coordinated effort.[8] Busloads of police were brought in to rescue "the retreating servicemen," after which "dozens of Mexicans" were arrested.[8] Military officials declared Los Angeles off limits to servicemen the next day.[8]
After hearing of the event, an article for the Pittsburgh [PA] Courier warned that Black zoot suiters could be the next target for "the patriotic lawlessness of men in uniform" and stated that both "Los Angeles Negro and Mexican zoot suiters are closer together than they are to members of their own racial group."[8] Norris J. Nelson, Los Angeles City Council member, proposed outlawing zoot suits, although this did not occur due to questions about its constitutionality.[6][8][9]
Cesar Chavez sported zoot suit attire in his younger years and the zoot suit became an important cultural symbol for the Chicano Movement.[31] The earliest youth who reclaimed the word Chicano as an identity of empowerment were in fact Pachucos.[32]
White Americans
Throughout the 1940s,
Trinidad
Zoot suits not only played a historical role in the subculture in the United States in the 1940s, but also shaped a new generation of men in Trinidad. These Trinidadian men who adopted this American fashion became referred to as the "saga boys"; they wore these suits and embraced the glamorous lifestyle that they represented. "Their fondness for the zoot suit, in particular signified a rejection of Anglo-centric precepts not only about fashion but, more profoundly, about manhood."[34]
Therefore, although the "saga boys" had the appearance of adapting to the urban American way of life, they were in fact using this clothing and lifestyle as a way to improve their lives in Trinidad, rise above the restrictions that imperialism brought and create through this oppositional dress, a culture of their own.[34]
Swing revival era
In the swing revival era, which started in 1989 and carried to about 1998, the zoot suit experienced a small resurgence mostly based in nostalgia of the 1940s era, yet notably missed many of the racial dynamics that surrounded the zoot suit.[11][35] Bands included The Brian Setzer Orchestra, Royal Crown Revue, and Cherry Poppin' Daddies.[11] One of the popular songs of the era was the Cherry Poppin' Daddies' "Zoot Suit Riot", which presented the historical moment of the Zoot Suit Riots through a lens of masculine power.[11]
Contemporary
The zoot suit is regularly memorialized by the Chicano community today as a symbol of cultural pride.[12][36][37] Some of this is owed to Luis Valdez's 1979 play Zoot Suit and its subsequent 1981 film, which carried knowledge of the era and interest in the style forward.[38][39] Outside of memorialization events, such as those held on the anniversary of the Zoot Suit Riots,[36][12] the zoot suit is still sometimes worn by Chicanos for special occasions, including proms, usually as a dual display of formal wear and cultural pride.[13][40] It is also worn in certain urban areas in Mexico for similar purposes.[41]
Characteristics
Traditionally, zoot suits have been worn with a fedora or pork pie hat color-coordinated with the suit, occasionally with a long feather as decoration, and pointy, French-style shoes.[citation needed]
A young Malcolm X, who wore zoot suits in his youth, described the zoot suit as: "a killer-diller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats, and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell".[42]
Zoot suits usually featured a watch chain dangling from the belt to the knee or below, then back to a side pocket. A woman accompanying a man wearing a zoot suit would commonly wear a flared skirt and a long coat.[43]
The amount of material and tailoring required made them luxury items, so much so that the U.S. War Production Board said that they wasted materials that should be devoted to the World War II war effort.[44] When Life published photographs of zoot suiters in 1942, the magazine joked that they were "solid arguments for lowering the Army draft age to include 18-year-olds".[43] This extravagance, which many considered unpatriotic in wartime, was a factor in the Zoot Suit Riots.
To some, wearing the oversized suit was a declaration of freedom and self-determination, even rebelliousness.[45][46]
Some observers[
Media
- The Zoot Cat – 1944 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Tom and Jerry short directed by Bill Hanna and Joseph Barbera. It features Tom and Jerry in zoot suit wardrobe
- Book Revue – 1946 Looney Tunes short directed by Bob Clampett, featuring Daffy Duck wearing a zoot suit
- Tin-Tan– a Mexican actor from the 1940s who wore zoot suits in his films
- "Three Arabian Nuts" – 1951 Three Stoogesshort in which Shemp finds a genie in a lamp. Upon Shemp's wish for a new suit, the genie gives him a zoot suit
- "Zoot Suit/I'm the Face" – 1964 single by the Who, recorded under the name The High Numbers
- Zoot-Suit Murders – 1978 murder mystery novel by Thomas Sanchez
- Zoot Suit – 1978 play by Luis Valdez
- Zoot Suit – 1981 film by Luis Valdez
- "Alright" – single by Janet Jackson, the music video of which features Jackson wearing a zoot suit in homage to Cab Calloway
- Batman: The Animated Series – The Joker is seen frequently wearing a zoot suit
- The Mask – 1994 film based on the titular comic book character by Dark Horse Comics starring Jim Carrey. The character is featured in a zoot suit
- Malcolm X – 1992 film based on the political leader Malcolm X, starring Denzel Washington and directed by Spike Lee. Denzel Washington's portrayal of the young Malcolm X is seen in some scenes wearing a zoot suit
- Zoot Suit Riot – 1997 compilation album by Cherry Poppin' Daddies
- The Adventures of Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension - 1984 film. Club owner Artie Duncan is shown wearing a yellow checked/plaid zoot suit.
- Kid Creole and the Coconuts - Popular musical group led by August Darnell. He would often make frequent appearances with the group wearing zoot suit.
-
Will Mastin Trio in zoot suits
-
Louis Jordan in a Zoot suit
-
The Delta Rhythm Boys in zoot suits
-
Eddie "Rochester" Anderson and Katherine Dunham in the Broadway show "Star Spangled Rhythm"
-
Entertainers wearing zoot suits for Hit Parade of 1943
See also
- Zazou – Subculture in France during World War II
References
- ISBN 978-1-59253-850-8.
- ISBN 9780853656395.
- ^ Maddan, Heather (April 29, 2007). "Zooting up / Brighten prom night with flash, dash - and panache". The San Francisco Chronicle.
- ^ "L.A. In the Zoot Suit Era :: Zoot Suit Discovery Guide".
- ^ "The Zoot Suit and Youth Culture".
- ^ ISBN 9780812204599.
- ^ a b c d e f g "Zoot Suit Riots | American Experience | PBS". www.pbs.org. Retrieved 2023-01-17.
- ^ OCLC 308677458.
- ^ a b Orozco, Christian (2023-06-02). "Where and how the Zoot Suit Riots swept across L.A." Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2023-08-21.
The council approves the resolution, but the ordinance never goes into effect. Instead, the council urges the War Production Board to take even further steps to curb the production of zoot suits.
- ISBN 9780520956872.
- ^ S2CID 30345366.
- ^ a b c "78th Anniversary of LA's Zoot Suit Riots in Commerce". NBC Los Angeles. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ^ a b Little, Emerson (2021-11-17). "Estrella Family Fashions Zoot Suits at El Pachuco -". fullertonobserver.com. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
Some of the store's busiest times of the year include Halloween and prom season.
- ^ Estefania, Rafael. "Pachucos: The Latinx subculture that defied the US". BBC News. Retrieved 2023-09-14.
- ^ Smithsonian Magazine.
- ^ McG. Thomas, Robert (August 1, 1996). "Harold Fox, Who Took Credit For the Zoot Suit, Dies at 86". The New York Times. Retrieved September 11, 2012.
- ^ "Clipping from The Daily Telegram". The Daily Telegram. Adrian, Michigan. 1943-06-28. p. 8. Retrieved 2022-04-06.Clipping from The Daily Telegram (Adrian, Michigan), June 28, 1943, p. 8.
- ISBN 978-0-306-81034-3.[page needed]
- ^ "Nathan Elkus, 89, Detroit retailer". Daily News Record. January 2, 1992. Archived from the original on June 11, 2014. Retrieved September 11, 2012.
- ^ Elkus, Philip L. (August 4, 1996). "Zoot Suit Required Cutting and Cajoling". The New York Times. Retrieved September 11, 2012.
- ^ Powell, Azizi (2014-02-12). "Two Examples Of The 1942 Song "Zoot Suit (For My Sunday Gal)"". pancocojams. Retrieved 2022-04-06.
- ISBN 978-0-520-26154-9.
- ^ "Zoot Suit Riots". History. September 27, 2017.
- S2CID 143131289.
- ISBN 9780313332111.
- OCLC 272303247.
- ^ "Zoot Suit Girls". National Museum of American History. 2020-09-17. Retrieved 2021-07-12.
- ^ ISBN 9780275962333.
- )
- ^ "War, Politics & Suits: The Zoot Suit". Duchess Clothier. Archived from the original on 2016-02-19. Retrieved 2022-04-06.
- OCLC 846451052.
- ISBN 9780822389385.
- ^ OCLC 822890077.
- ^ a b Neptune, Harvey R. (2007). Caliban and the Yankees. Chapel Hill: The University of North Carolina Press. pp. 105–128.
- ^ "Let's All Remember The Late-'90s Swing Revival". Stereogum. 2016-05-16. Retrieved 2023-01-17.
- ^ a b "The Zoot Suit Riots Cruise brings back 'a forgotten era'". Los Angeles Times. 2021-06-07. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ^ Ruelas, Renee. "Zoot Suit Pachanga celebrates culture, history". Las Cruces Sun-News. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ^ Staff, Daily Chela (2021-05-23). "Lowrider Cruise To Commemorate Zoot Suit Riot Anniversary". The Daily Chela. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ^ Valenzuela, Eric (2010-03-23). "Zoot Suit Riot". Latino Los Ángeles. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
They are still worn from time to time by pachucos and vatos who want to dress up.
- ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Mexico's 'pachucos' keep zoot suits, defiance alive". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2023-01-18.
- ISBN 978-1-84760-042-4. Retrieved 2009-04-22.
- ^ a b "Zoot suits". Life. 1942-09-21. p. 44. Retrieved November 20, 2011.
- ISBN 978-1-84603-176-2.
- ISBN 978-0-19-534295-6.
- ^ Icarus Films: Seven Songs for Malcolm X. icarusfilms.com. 1993-09-15. Retrieved 2022-04-06.
- ISBN 9780292788213. Retrieved 30 January 2016.
Further reading
- Alvarez, Luis. The Power of the Zoot: Youth Culture and Resistance During World War II (University of California Press, 2008).
- Cosgrove, Stuart (1984). "The Zoot-Suit and Style Warfare". History Workshop Journal. 18: 77–91. ISBN 978-1-4051-1465-3.
- Turner, Ralph H.; Surace, Samuel J. (1956). "Zoot-Suiters and Mexicans: Symbols in Crowd Behavior". American Journal of Sociology. 62 (1): 14–20. S2CID 143875170.
- Tyler, Bruce (1994). "Zoot-Suit Culture and the Black Press". The Journal of American Culture. 17 (2): 21–33. .
- Alford, Holly (2004). "The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence". Fashion Theory. 8 (2): 225–36. S2CID 194180401.
- del Castillo, Richard Griswold (2000). "The Los Angeles 'Zoot Suit Riots' Revisited: Mexican and Latin American Perspectives". Mexican Studies. 16 (2): 367–91. JSTOR 1052202.
External links
- The Zoot Suit Riots. Article about the zoot suit riots of 1943.