Ashley Mears
Ashley Mears | |
---|---|
Title | Professor of Sociology |
Academic background | |
Education | University of Georgia |
Alma mater | New York University |
Thesis | Pricing Beauty: The Production of Value in Fashion Modeling Markets (2009) |
Academic work | |
Discipline | Sociology |
Institutions | |
Main interests | Culture, markets, work |
Notable works | Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model |
Website | www |
Ashley Mears is an American writer, sociologist, and former fashion model. She is currently Professor and Chair of Cultural Sociology and New Media at the University of Amsterdam. Mears is the author of Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model and Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit, and is regularly quoted in media as an academic expert in the culture and economics of fashion.
Early life and education
Mears grew up near
Career
After earning her Ph.D. from New York University in 2009,[6][7] Mears became an assistant professor of sociology at Boston University.[8] In 2011 her book Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model was published by the University of California Press. Sociologist Heather Laine Talley, writing in the American Journal of Sociology, noted that while Pricing Beauty is about "how fashion insiders create aesthetic value," it also examines "the organization of markets, the process of cultural production, and reproduction of inequalities."[9] Mears found that most fashion models operate against their short-term economic interests by accepting low-paying jobs that they hope will lead to greater recognition and higher-prestige jobs, but that very few models ever successfully attain such recognition, with the rest gradually aging out of the industry, sometimes while in debt to their modeling agencies, or switching to more lucrative but less prestigious commercial modeling.[10]
Pricing Beauty identifies the industry's idiosyncratic beauty standards as a major obstacle to success for models, not only in preferring "size-zero" body types, but in preferring white women above other women even within the "size-zero" category.[11] Like other "ethnic" models, Mears was specifically advised not to mention her Korean heritage at castings.[12] Mears concluded that industry insiders were not simply reflecting social preferences, but were actively producing beauty images designed to reproduce what sociologist Laura Grindstaff, in her review for Gender & Society, called "the gendered and racialized value hierarchies attached to beauty."[13] A review in The Chronicle of Higher Education criticized this conclusion, suggesting that "Mears's attempts to make the numbers support her critique of the fashion industry for its whiteness reveal more about her wish to expose it than anything else."[14] Publishers Weekly noted that Pricing Beauty was "probably too complex for the average reader" but praised the book as "a well-researched, well-written, and thorough study of the industry."[15]
Mears has also written for
In addition to her own publications, Mears is regularly cited by print and web media on issues in culture, markets, and work, such as why many models come from one region of the United States,[19] how celebrity scandals affect the reputation of popular hotels and nightspots,[20] whether fashion modeling is indentured servitude,[21] whether "sexbots" will replace spouses,[22] and the emotional labor of women in the workplace.[23] In 2022, Mears was promoted to full professor of sociology at Boston University.[24] In 2024, she began an appointment as Professor and Chair of Cultural Sociology and New Media at the University of Amsterdam.[25]
Bibliography
- Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model (University of California Press, 2011) ISBN 9780520270763
- Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit (Princeton University Press, 2020) ISBN 9780691168654
References
- ^ a b c Giacobbe, Alyssa (January 15, 2012). "A former model delves into the industry". The Boston Globe. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ T: The New York Times Style Magazine. Archivedfrom the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Lamb, Christina (December 4, 2011). "Model Student". The Times. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Vallas, Steven (May 30, 2016). "Conversations: Ashley Mears Talks about the Ethnography of Desire". Work in Progress. American Sociological Association Section on Organizations, Occupations, and Work. Archived from the original on September 4, 2018. Retrieved September 4, 2018.
- National Public Radio. Archivedfrom the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Krueger, Alyson (2012). "Models of the World, Unite!". NYU Alumni Magazine. No. 19. Archived from the original on October 1, 2016. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- OCLC 865546083.
- ^ "Ashley Mears". BU Sociology. Boston University. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- doi:10.1086/664830.
- ^ Copeland, Libby (September 7, 2011). "America's Next Top Sociologist". Slate. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Schama, Chloë (September 18, 2011). "The Skin Trade". The New Republic. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Causey, Adera (November 20, 2011). "Fashion industry gets an insider's look in 'Pricing Beauty'". Chattanooga Times Free Press. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- S2CID 145512781.
- ^ Shteir, Rachel (December 11, 2011). "Taking Beauty's Measure". The Chronicle of Higher Education. Archived from the original on September 4, 2018. Retrieved September 4, 2018.
- ^ "Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model". Publishers Weekly. October 3, 2011. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Mears, Ashley (September 20, 2014). "Who Runs the Girls?". The New York Times. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ a b Bloch, Alice (July 31, 2020). "The Cost of Fun". The Times Literary Supplement. Retrieved December 8, 2022.
- from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 8, 2022.
- ^ Khazan, Olga (August 13, 2015). "The Midwest, Home of the Supermodel". The Atlantic. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Sneed, Tierney (May 13, 2014). "A Mixed Bag of Publicity for NYC's Standard Hotel After Elevator Spat". U.S. News & World Report. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Hackman, Rose (February 19, 2015). "Model life: to call it indentured servitude is no exaggeration". The Guardian. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Rossman, Gabriel (August 16, 2018). "Of Wives and Widgets". National Review. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ Bennett-Smith, Meredith (April 18, 2017). "The case for being grumpy at work". Quartz. Archived from the original on September 3, 2018. Retrieved September 2, 2018.
- ^ "Faculty Research Fellow Ashley Mears Promoted to Full Professor". Boston University Pardee School of Global Studies. April 8, 2022. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 8, 2022.
- ^ "Ashley Mears appointed Professor of Sociology, in particular Chair of Cultural Sociology and New Media". University of Amsterdam. October 6, 2023. Archived from the original on March 16, 2024. Retrieved March 16, 2024.