Jumbo Love
Jumbo Love | |
---|---|
Suprême Jumbo Love (Jumbo Love Direct) | |
Seb Bouin , November 1, 2022 |
Jumbo Love is a very long 76-metre (249 ft)
The route has been repeated, and its grade confirmed, by a number of subsequent climbers, including French climber
History
The route was bolted by American Randy Leavitt in the late 1990s, who envisaged it being a 3-pitch climb.[6] Leavitt failed to complete the route and invited Chris Sharma to try it. Sharma spent 2007 with fellow American climber Ethan Pringle working the route, which Sharma envisioned as a huge 76-metre (249 ft) long single-pitch climb.[6] In 2008, Pringle was injured and Sharma, living below the cliff (the "Third Tier" crag) for weeks, made the first ascent on September 11, 2008.[6] Sharma named the route Jumbo Love in recognition of Leavitt's neighboring route, Jumbo Pumping Hate.[7]
At the time of Sharma's ascent, Jumbo Love was one of several sport climbing routes that were proposed at the grade of
Sharma would be the only climber of this "first potential 9b" group that would go on to climb further consensus 9b graded sport climbing routes, which he did with Golpe de Estado (2008), and Neanderthal (2009); he also went on to climb 9b+ (5.15c) with La Dura Dura in 2013. Neither Rouhling, Fernandez, Andrada, or Caldwell, would climb another route with a claim of being at, or above, the grade of 9b.[6][5]
The first repeat of Jumbo Love was completed almost seven years later by Ethan Pringle on May 17, 2015; his climb (and Sharma's 2008 ascent) was captured in the 2016
Suprême Jumbo Love
From 2010 to 2013, Sharma tried to add a
Legacy
In the 2016 Reel Rock documentary on Jumbo Love, the first ascent was described as a "watershed moment" in sport climbing; Pringle expressed his own deflation at not being able to make the first ascent and noted that "when Chris ascended Jumbo Love, it really elevated his rock-star status".[18] When Seb Bouin made the fourth ascent in 2022, he said, "This king line has attracted me for a long time. It was a true inspiration to see the footage of Chris Sharma on it. I started climbing around 2005 and it was one of the most incredible climbing films I had watched at that time".[19]
Sharma said that after Jumbo Love he had to change his approach. His past breakthroughs had been on routes established and bolted by other climbers who had given up on them.
Ascents
Jumbo Love has been ascended by:
- 1st Chris Sharma, September 11, 2008[21][22]
- 2nd Ethan Pringle, May 17, 2015[23][24]
- 3rd Jonathan Siegrist, May 17, 2018[4][25][26]
- 4th
Suprême Jumbo Love has been ascended by:
- 1st
Filmography
- Includes Chris Sharma's 2008 ascent: Josh Lowell, Brett Lowell, Cooper Roberts (2009). Reel Rock: Progression (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. Retrieved November 21, 2022.[22]
- Ethan Pringle's 2015 repeat: Zachary Barr, Peter Mortimer, Nick Rosen (2016). Reel Rock: Jumbo Love (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved November 21, 2022.[7]
See also
- History of rock climbing
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- Silence, first climb in the world with a potential grade of 9c (5.15d)
- La Dura Dura, second climb in the world to be graded 9b+ (5.15c)
- Realization/Biographie, first climb in the world with a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a)
- Action Directe, first climb in the world with a consensus grade of 9a (5.14d)
- Hubble, first climb in the world with a consensus grade of 8c+ (5.14c)
References
- ^ "5.15b Jumbo Love, 80m Sport climb in Clark Mountain". theCrag. Retrieved November 23, 2022.
- ISBN 9781792349591. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ a b c "Jumbo Love – History, Ascents and Media | Hard Climbs". hardclimbs.info. November 30, 2021. Retrieved November 23, 2022.
- ^ a b c Levy, Michael (May 17, 2018). "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved June 16, 2022.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Walsh, Anthony (November 3, 2022). "Séb Bouin Just Established the Hardest Route in America (5.15c)". Climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2022.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Potter, Stephen (October 25, 2022). "Seb Bouin Claims 4th Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2022.
- ^ a b c d "Seb Bouin Makes Rare Repeat of Jumbo Love 5.15b". Gripped Magazine. October 25, 2022. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ Levy, Michael (November 24, 2020). "Fred Rouhling's "Akira," World's First Proposed 5.15b in 1995, Finally Repeated; Downgraded to 5.14d". Rock & Ice. Retrieved June 22, 2022.
- ^ Potter, Stephen (November 9, 2022). "Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade". Climbing. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Ali Hulk Extensión Total Sit Start, 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. August 23, 2021. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total, 9a+ by Gonzalo Larrocha". 8a.nu. November 14, 2022. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ Fernandez, Isaac (May 15, 2023). "Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved August 16, 2023.
- ^ Fernandez, Isaac (August 17, 2021). "Jonatan Flor scores the first repetition of 'Natural Delinquent' thirteen years later". Desnivel. Retrieved July 15, 2023.
- ^ McDonald, Dougald (October 9, 2013). "Sharma Working Clark Mountain Mega-Proj". Climbing. Retrieved November 21, 2022.}
- ^ a b "These are the most difficult climbing routes in the world". LACrux. May 16, 2022. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "America's First 5.15c is Suprême Jumbo Love". Gripped Magazine. November 3, 2022. Retrieved November 23, 2022.
- ^ "Seb Bouin makes first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved November 23, 2022.
- ^ "Jumbo Love. Reel Rock – S02 – E10". Red Bull. 2016. Retrieved November 22, 2022.
- ^ a b "Seb Bouin repeats Jumbo Love, Chris Sharma's 9b at Clark Mountain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved November 12, 2022.
- ^ a b c Bishart, Andrew (November 27, 2013). "Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb la Dura Dura (5.15c) – the World's Hardest Route". Rock & Ice. Retrieved June 16, 2022.
- ^ Clarke, Owen (June 11, 2022). "Chris Sharma—One Of The Best And Most Influential Rock Climbers Of All Time". Climbing. Retrieved June 11, 2022.
- ^ a b "Chris Sharma frees Jumbo Love 9b at Clark Mountain". PlanetMountain. September 21, 2008. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Watch Ethan Pringle's Full 35-Minute Send of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Climbing. May 30, 2017. Retrieved November 23, 2022.
- ^ "Ethan Pringle repeats Jumbo Love 9b at Clark Mountain". PlanetMountain. May 20, 2015. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Jonathan Siegrist = Jumbo Love 9b". PlanetMountain. May 19, 2018. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Jonathan Siegrist Sends Jumbo Love 5.15b". Gripped. May 17, 2018. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ "Seb Bouin makes first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+/38". New Zealand Alpine Club. November 1, 2022. Retrieved November 20, 2022.
External links
- The Story of Jumbo Love, Hard Climbs (2022)
- VIDEO: Watch Ethan Pringle's Full 35-Minute Send of Jumbo Love (5.15b), Climbing (May 2017)
- VIDEO: Jumbo Love, Reel Rock (Season 2, Episode 10) (documentary on Sharma's first ascent, and Pringle's second ascent, of Jumbo Love)