The Birka textiles

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The Birka textiles are archaeological textiles found during the excavations of

stem stitch, includes wool floss on wool fabric, silk floss on silk fabric, and gold thread on a decayed ground material. There are examples of appliqué and edging techniques used to decorate and strengthen garments.[1]

Birka has been called the "Silk Road of the North" from speculation whether the textiles represented Near or Far Eastern origins.[2]

Background

The Byzantine emperor

Chernigov, Vyshegrad and Teliutza to Byzantium, confirming the existence of a trade route between the North and Mediterranean.[2]

Arab writer

caftan, was placed on a Byzantine brocade covered couch in a pavilion that was built on his ship.[2]

There is archaeological evidence for this trade in Sweden where over 60,000 Byzantine coins and Arab Dirhems have been found. There are 2500 rune stones dating between c. 1000-1100 honor men who died in "the Österled (Eastern lands); in Gardarike (Russia), Holmgard (Nogorod), Greece, Miklagard (Byzantium), Jursalia (Jerusalem) and Sarkland (Persia)."[2]

Tabletwoven bands

Tabletwoven bands were found at around 60 of the 170 excavated graves. The warp was woven either entirely of silk, or a combination of silk and an inner material that hasn't survived, and the weft entirely of silk. All the bands were brocaded with metal threads, either of gold or silver, and in two cases a combination. Research by Agnes Geijer identified at least 26 different patterns.[2]

There is controversy about their supposed Eastern origins. Advanced tablet-weaving was known in Nordic countries since before the Viking Age, but these materials and specific constructions are otherwise unknown outside the Birka textiles.[2]

References

  1. ^ "Birka Embroideries (Sweden)". Textile Research Center. Leiden.
  2. ^ a b c d e f Peters, Cathy Ostrom (2002). "The Silk Road Textiles at Birka: An Examination of the Tabletwoven Bands". Textile Society of America Symposium.