Guy Bullock
Guy Henry Bullock (23 July 1887 – 12 April 1956) was a British diplomat who is best known for his participation in the
Early years
Guy Bullock was born in 1887 in Beijing, the son of
Bullock was educated at Winchester College, where he was a member of the school's Ice Club along with Mallory who was his climbing partner.[4] In 1905, he joined Mallory and the Winchester schoolmaster Graham Irving in the Pennine Alps where they reached the summit of the 4,356-metre (14,291 ft) Dent Blanche.[5][6]: 155 In 1906, he played cricket for Winchester against Eton College.[7]
Bullock was elected to the
In 1916. he married an American, Laura Alice McGloin.[3][6]: 203
Diplomatic career
Bullock had a 34-year career in the British Consular Service starting in 1913 when his first posting was to
After World War II an
1921 Everest reconnaissance expedition
Shortly before the 1921 Everest expedition was due to embark, one of the climbing team was asked to drop out and Mallory suggested Bullock as a replacement. He wrote to Sir Francis Younghusband, president of the Royal Geographical Society, that Bullock was "a scholar and a very good runner, the best long distance runner that anyone remembered in my time ... I feel that he would be a valuable man in the party".[6]: 155
The
The expedition had a climbing team of four but, of the two most experienced members, one died doing the march-in and the other was taken ill. This left only two main climbers, Mallory and Bullock himself. Exploring from the north, they thought that the route from the North Col to the summit looked feasible but that there seemed no good route up to the North Col from where they were, to the west. He and Mallory reached a pass from where they were the first to see the Western Cwm in Nepal.[13]: 6–24 Later Bullock, on a one-man expedition, reached the Lho La pass from which he photographed the Khumbu Icefall for the first time.[6][13]: 26
To find out whether the North Col could be reached from the east, the whole expedition decamped to the
Unlike Mallory who could be moody and forgetful, Bullock was a well-organised person, able to get on well with almost everybody.[15]: 43–69 He was steady and cheerful, and so was a very good companion for Mallory, the better climber.[16]: 81–82 In 1961 Graham Irving considered that Bullock had never received his fair share of the credit for the success of the expedition.[15]: 52
Bullock's diary of the expedition was published in 1962 in the Alpine Journal.[17] Bullock had previously declined to lend the diary to Mallory who had been wanting to make use of it for his lectures after the expedition.[6]: 460
Jeffrey Archer's 2009 novel Paths of Glory contains a major character "Guy Bullock" (as well as a "George Mallory"). However, the book states: "This is a work of fiction. All of the characters, organizations, and events portrayed in this novel are either products of the author's imagination or are used fictitiously".[18] This statement is to be relied upon.[19]
He died in a London hospital in 1956.[1][20]
References
- ^ a b "Obituary: Mr. G. Bullock – Mountaineer and Consul". The Times. 20 April 1956. p. 13.
- ^ Bullock, Llewellyn C W (1905). Memoirs of the Bullock Family A.D. 1166–1905. Rugby: A J Lawrence.
- ^ a b "Guy Henry Bullock (1887–1956)". geni.com. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
- ^ a b c "Guy Henry Bullock". Imaging Everest. Royal Geographical Society. Retrieved 11 February 2013.
- ^ Firstbrook, Peter (5 December 1999). "Lost on Everest: Chapter 1". Book extract. New York: The New York Times. Retrieved 12 February 2013.
- ^ ISBN 978-0099563839. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
- ^ "Cricket Archives".
- ^ "Foreign Office" (PDF). London Gazette. 10 September 1926. p. 5908. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
- ^ "London Gazette" (PDF). 29 January 1935. p. 693.
- ^ "Explorers conquer Cotopaxi Volcano". Spokesman Review. 16 June 1938. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
Kirkpatrick, Helen (25 June 1941). "British Bank on Youth in Key Positions" (PDF). Syracuse Herald. p. 9. Retrieved 17 June 2014. - ^ "Foreign Office" (PDF). London Gazette. 14 April 1944. p. 1718.
- ^ "If Britain had been conquered. 2,300 names on Nazi Black List". Evening Telegraph. British Newspaper Archive. 14 September 1945. p. 8. Retrieved 26 June 2014.
- ^ a b c Murray, W. H. (1953). The Story of Everest. J. M. Dent & Sons.
- ^ Shipton, Eric (1955). Men Against Everest. Prentice Hall. pp. 33–35.
- ^ a b Blakeney, T. S. (1971). "The first steps towards Mount Everest T" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
- ISBN 0712664882.
- ^ Bullock, G. H. (1962). "Everest Expedition, 1921. Diaries of G. H. Bullock (Part I)" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 304: 130–149. Retrieved 18 June 2014.
Bullock, G. H. (1962). "Everest Expedition, 1921. Diaries of G. H. Bullock (Part II)" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 305: 291–309. Retrieved 18 June 2014. - ISBN 978-0230531437.
- ^ Sexton, David (25 March 2009). "Book review: Paths of Glory, by Jeffrey Archer". Scotsman. Retrieved 17 June 2014.
- ^ England & Wales, National Probate Calendar (Index of Wills and Administrations), 1858–1995