Helen Evans Brown

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Helen Evans Brown
1961
Born
Helen Oakley Evans

(1904-11-16)November 16, 1904
New York City, US
DiedDecember 5, 1964(1964-12-05) (aged 60)
Pasadena, California, US
Other namesHelen O. Evans, Helen Comstock
Occupation(s)Chef, cookbook writer
Known forTurning cookbook writing into a scholarly effort
Notable workHelen Brown's West Coast Cook Book (1952), Chafing Dish Book (1950)

Helen Evans Brown (1904–1964) was an American chef and cookbook writer. She was a nationally known expert and wrote regular food columns, as well as collecting cookbooks from other authors. She was known as the authority on the west coast food scene of the 1950s and 1960s. She was one of the first chefs to advocate using fresh produce and promoting California cuisine.

Early life

Helen Oakley Evans was born as a twin on November 16, 1904, in

Yale School of Fine Arts,[2] as an art major in 1924 and 1925.[5] Around 1926, Evans married Stephen Comstock, with whom she had a son, William,[7] and began running a catering business called "The Epicurean" with a friend. Comstock later opened the Brownstone House Restaurant, in New Haven, Connecticut.[6] After around a decade of marriage,[8] in which the couple also had a daughter, she met Phillip S. Brown, who was an uninvited guest at a dinner party Comstock hosted. The two had a whirl-wind courtship and within weeks, Phillip had convinced Comstock to move to California by way of Reno, Nevada. She left her two children with Stephen, married Brown in Nevada and then reunited with her children.[6][9]

Career

Brown began writing for the

cookbooks and served as Brown's taste-tester, research assistant, and typist.[10]

In 1940, Brown began writing articles for "Baltzer’s Bulletin", an upscale grocer's newsletter, and continued to publish the mailer when the Jurgensen's grocery chain bought the original store.[2][11][12] That same year, she published articles in Californian Magazine a publication out of Los Angeles, which were collected and printed in paperback and were her first collection of printed works. In 1946, Brown published her first cookbook Some Shrimp Recipes, which was followed by the Chafing Dish Book (1950),[2] which became her best-selling book.[5] Two volumes were published in 1951, Some Oyster Recipes and the Patio Cook Book.[2]

In 1952, Brown published Helen Brown's West Coast Cook Book, which has become a classic regional American cookbook for its well-written and researched choices, as well as her knowledge of a wide variety of cuisines and sense of taste.

cilantro and garlic, which until that time was rarely used,[17] and teriyaki sauce.[16] Brown advocated fusion of cultural dishes into American cuisine and the use of fish which was locally caught. Her vision, laid the foundation of what became known as California cuisine.[15] The publication solidified Brown's reputation among her peers as the authority on the west coast food scene of the 1950s and 1960s and she counted among her many friends, Julia Child, Craig Claiborne, M. F. K. Fisher, Helen McCully and Albert Stockli.[14][18][19]

James Beard was so impressed with the book that he wrote Brown, beginning a close relationship that would last until her death. They wrote each other twice a week and became like family, with each visiting the other as often as their busy careers allowed.[20] They forged a partnership without competition, recognizing that while he had more expertise, she had more writing skill, and together pushed each other to make easy-to-prepare foods more palatable.[21] Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles (1994) contains some of the correspondence of Beard and Brown,[13] utilizing 300 of the 450 letters from Helen to Jim and his replies.[22] Beard also dedicated his book, American Cookery, to her[14] and in 1955, she and Beard wrote The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery together.[13]

The Browns were part of a

Woman’s Home Companion.[23] In 1961, Brown made an extended trip to Europe to research recipes and stories about food[5] and while in Spain began suffering bouts of paralysis. Her husband began taking over her writing for Jurgensen's as her cancer progressed.[24]

Death and legacy

Brown died on December 5, 1964, at her home in Pasadena, California,

University of Michigan, Ann Arbor.[27] Some of Brown's publications in "Baltzer’s Bulletin" which were later known as "Jurgensen's Newsletter" were compiled into The Epicurean: Excerpts from "Jurgensen's Newsletter" in 2001 and were published by Weather Bird Press.[28]

References

Citations

  1. ^ New York City Municipal Archives 1904.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g The Independent Star-News 1964, p. 4.
  3. ^ U.S. Census 1940, p. 61B.
  4. ^ U.S. Census, New York 1930, p. 17A.
  5. ^ a b c d e f g The New York Times 1964.
  6. ^ a b c Beard & Ferrone 1995, p. viii.
  7. ^ U.S. Census, Connecticut 1930, p. 32A.
  8. ^ "New York Passenger Lists" 1936, p. 104.
  9. ^ Swartley 2006, p. 95.
  10. ^ a b Shurtleff & Aoyagi 2013, p. 818.
  11. ^ a b Swartley 2006, p. 188.
  12. ^ Thompson 1995.
  13. ^ a b c Parsons 2002.
  14. ^ a b c Jarvits 2013, p. 219.
  15. ^ a b Parsons 2016.
  16. ^ a b Swartley 2006, p. 94.
  17. ^ Reichl 2016.
  18. ^ a b Swartley 2006, p. 187.
  19. ^ Ojakangas 2016, p. 135.
  20. ^ Beard & Ferrone 1995, pp. vii–viii, x.
  21. ^ Beard & Ferrone 1995, p. xi.
  22. ^ Beard & Ferrone 1995, p. xv.
  23. ^ The Independent Star-News 1958, p. 13.
  24. ^ Swartley 2006, p. 189.
  25. ^ Beard & Ferrone 1995, p. xiv.
  26. ^ Keown 1966, p. 44.
  27. ^ Longone 2007, p. x.
  28. ^ Brown & Brown 2001.

Bibliography

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