Mazeno Ridge
Mazeno Ridge | |
---|---|
Gilgit–Baltistan , Pakistan
| |
Himalaya | |
Climbing | |
First ascent | 2004 by Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson (US) |
Easiest route | Western ridge route |
The Mazeno Ridge is an
Not far to the north is the western end of the Karakoram range.[2] At the southern end of the ridge, the Mazeno mountain pass is 5,358 metres (17,579 ft) high and connects the towns of Astore and Chilas.[3]
Mazeno Ridge
The Mazeno Ridge forms part of the Nanga Parbat mountain range. With a length of 13 kilometres (8.1 mi) from Mazeno Pass to Mazeno Col, Mazeno is the longest ridge on any eight-thousander summit.[4][5] It starts to the west of Nanga Parbat and heads north-east to the summit. The southwestern portion of this main ridge is known as the Mazeno Wall. The ridge has eight subsidiary peaks of over 6,800 metres (22,300 ft), the highest being Mazeno Peak with an elevation of 7,120 metres (23,360 ft).[6] For a climber, there are no apparent escape routes on either flank until Mazeno Col is reached, where the ridge meets the Schell Route coming up the Rupal flank. A further 2 km (1.2 mi) climb ascends to the summit of Nanga Parbat.[4]
Climbing history
Mazeno Ridge was first attempted by a French mountaineering team led by Louis Audoubert in 1979 but bad weather prevented them from climbing any but the first Mazeno peak. The English mountaineer Doug Scott made three attempts at traversing the ridge, one being with Sandy Allen in 1992. The third attempt, in 1995, involved Rick Allen, Wojciech Kurtyka and Andrew Lock, while Scott was unwell, and was successful in climbing the first three of the Mazeno peaks.[7][8]
The ridge was climbed in its entirety in 2004; a 10-kilometre (6.2 mi) traversal by US mountaineers Doug Chabot and
In 2012, Scottish alpinists Sandy Allan, Rick Allen, and South African
In 2017, Argentine Mariano Galvan and Spaniard Alberto Zerain disappeared attempting the second ascent of the ridge. They are assumed to have been swept away by an avalanche, as a tracker being worn by Zerain became stationary, 180 m (600 ft) below the ridge, until it ceased to function fifteen hours later. A helicopter rescue mission manned by the Pakistan military found avalanche debris at the spot.[11]
References
- ^ "Mazeno Peak". PeakFinder. Retrieved 2019-02-14.
- ISBN 0-540-05831-9.
- Himalayan Club. Retrieved 2019-04-28.
- ^ a b c Griffin, Lindsay (19 July 2012). "Sandy Allan and Rick Allen complete Mazeno Ridge". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 2019-04-30.
- ISBN 978-1-910240-37-3.[page needed]
- ^ a b Weatherl, Joshua (20 July 2012). "Mazeno Ridge Climbed". Alpinist. Retrieved 2019-01-31.
- ISBN 978-1-933056-41-8.
- ISBN 978-0-948153-66-2.
- ^ Bacon, Sean (15 December 2015). "Brits Summit Nanga Parbat via Mazeno Ridge". Climbing. Retrieved 2019-01-31.
- ISBN 9781910240373. Retrieved 6 April 2024.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2 July 2017). "Galvan and Zerain disappear while attempting second crossing of Mazeno Ridge". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 2019-01-31.
External links
- "The mountains of the Himalayas". Himalaya-Info.org (in German).